Here is a list of all the postings David George 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Strange (to me) chuck jaw design.|
you can make your own bolt on jaws. we used to make external jaws to suit chuck with a 2 foot diameter hold on a 12 inch chuck. just bolt on bore out to suit job if it needs modifying just weld a bit on a bit of metal and re-bore.
|Thread: Drummond Lathe|
What model is the lathe some pictures would help. I have quite a lot of information about the M type but know very little about other Drummond lathes if you need any help please ask.
|Thread: Hi from New Zealand|
Hi Jack welcome to the forum. I had a cabinet for my lathe which wasn't strong enough and I made a tray for the top from 3mm plate with a turned up edge to retain swarf and coolant and bolted a wooden shelf system which also stores material stock etc. The difference was amazing and sturdy. What are you interested in making models, bikes, and where in NZ are you there are a few members there who may help.
|Thread: Drummond Lathe|
The ring is to disconect the front drive so you can rotate the back gear lever to drive slowly. It disconnects a plunger into the bull gear by rotating a ring with a ramp on. There is a screw with a screw driver slot, on my one to stop the ring rotating on its own as you don't want to connect both at the same time, broken gears or other damage.
Edited By David George 1 on 23/01/2020 20:06:54
Edited By David George 1 on 23/01/2020 20:09:50
|Thread: What geen grinding wheels for tools|
I would get at least a 5 inch wheel size for tool sharpening perhaps 6 inch, and the better make that you can afford the better as usually the cheaper grinders have crap wheel holding washers which allow the wheel to wobble and the tool rests are made of thin cheep material.
|Thread: Fly press weights.|
Have some cast. Make a wooden or plastic model, two halves of a sphere. And a core mould for the hole to match the top of the handle. You could sell spares.
|Thread: Making Rings|
Hi Steve you can use the wheel from a plastic lighter with a flint the wheel is very hard and its easy to make a holder to make a knurling tool.
|Thread: A good toolpost drill design|
Here is my spindle drive I made recently. I had a motor left over from doing a mod to my Z axis on Chester 16V mill.
|Thread: Tooling for Centec2 mill|
Hi Sean You can get an arbour Tufftride hardened which us similar to case hardening but at a lower temp and dosnt distort. You need to check that the material is compatable. Call your local heat treatment supplier for information.
|Thread: New to forum|
Hi Neil welcome to the forum. I also have an M Type and if you need any help just drop me a message. Where are you based and what are you interested in as it helps to suggest local supliers etc.
Edited By David George 1 on 18/01/2020 19:44:16
|Thread: 4x6 bandsaw|
I bought a replacement blade for my bandsaw at Screwfix it was made by Starrett.
Edited By David George 1 on 18/01/2020 19:37:39
|Thread: How to soften steel|
I machined my toolholders and found that they were case hardened. It means that once I was through the hard skin it was less problem but with this type of steel is tougher than through hardened steel and less likley to fracture. The core material does harden but not as much as the skin and i found that a 10mm carbide tool machined them with little problem.
Edited By David George 1 on 18/01/2020 09:37:50
|Thread: Gunmetal or brass|
Try you local metal scrap dealer many have a metal analyser and will test it for you.
|Thread: New to Forum|
Try top of this web page black band, in the forum tab then click web questions then how to Post pictures.
Hi welcome to the forum. It looks like you have some work on the go. A few pictures woukd be nice and where are you based, helps with local supliers etc.
|Thread: Bridgeport & Transwave - Help Please|
Give transwave a call have a look on there web site. 0121-708-4522
|Thread: Warco WM18 Y axis gib|
I would have a look at the gib strip. It easy to remove, has it been damaged or bent around the screw adjustment area. Clean around the area before removing have a good look at the screw itself in case it is bent and I have a thin strip of material, brass I think, which I put a strip of cotton material to clean down such areas. Having cleaned try and shine a light from the back and inspect the way and if all ok lube with slideway oil and reassemble. Put a dial indicator on the saddle against a parrallel etc clamped and wind it back one forward to check for play. Let us know what you find as many don't and I wonder if it is fixed. Pictures help.
Edited By David George 1 on 14/01/2020 07:28:57
|Thread: Mechanisms in modern engineering design Artobolevsky|
How is the mill coming along, is it a runner yet?
|Thread: Converting guillotine from manual to air power.|
Have you thought of using an Air oil converter to make hydraulic pressure which is more controllable. You just need a double cylinder with air pressure to compress the hydraulic oil which in turn operates the cutting cylinder.
|Thread: Magnetic chucks|
Very useful in some cases but do not strip it down as you will lose the magnetism and will have to go back to Eclipse for repair and're magnatising near to Meadowhall Sheffield. It may have a lubrication hole just use a slideway oil. Careful on thin or small diamiter pieces at least may need packing to stop sliding.
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