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Member postings for David George 1

Here is a list of all the postings David George 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

04/07/2020 07:22:03

Hi Rob welcome to the forum but please post on the new members thread to get the best from here.


01/07/2020 07:24:47

I bought one from Halfords on special offer reasonable prices and the draw runners are sturdy.


Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts
29/06/2020 22:58:20

Hi Andy I screw cut the thread with a square bit the same size as the thread. The tap was cut to same pitch with same gears and after milling with a ball end slot drill to give the cutting clearance I hardened it and then tempered it back to dark straw on the cutting part and let the shank down to blue. the internal thread cutter was just ground from a piece of HSS.


if you need any help just drop me a message.


Thread: Eclipse circular magnetic chuck
29/06/2020 21:12:37

We just used 60 grade slideway oil but dont dismantle or you will loose the magnetism and it will need re-magnetising.


Thread: Mill unexpectedly cutting crooked
29/06/2020 21:03:53


Thread: As per above am introducing myself
29/06/2020 20:50:44

Hi welcome to the forum. If you need information there are many helpful members on here. Perhaps you may be able to help as well.


Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917
28/06/2020 08:01:51

Nice to see the work on gearbox. It's amazing how you do it and it will look just like the original and work. Keep safe and keep up the work when you can.


Thread: EN42J heat treatment
26/06/2020 19:42:04

Robin I have sent you a message on this site at top of page.


Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts
26/06/2020 19:14:43

I made a new nut for my M type lathe and made a finish tap from silver steel. I roughed out the thread by screw cutting and used the tap to Finnish it.





Have a go.


Thread: EN42J heat treatment
26/06/2020 12:16:56

I have some CSM420 steel it is used for toolmaking as it is a type of stainless steel and a few blokes made knives from it. It holds an edge and polishes up great.


Thread: lead solder
26/06/2020 11:37:47

I have been trying to buy some thin lead solder for the wife's hobby stained glass work. she has some 3mm diameter solder no problem but needs some smaller solder for fine jobs. It has to be non-cored i.e. not resin fluxed as she uses a different liquid flux and a lead type low melting point. I found a manufacturer no problem and after satisfying that she wasn't using it to solder potable water pipes etc. there seemed no problem. when I placed the order the company wanted my VAT no and as I don't have one she wouldn't sell it to me. A couple of days ago there was a question about soldering and the bead that you get and Jason said to the person have a look at Cup alloys and right at the top of the page suggested there was the perfect solder for my wife. I never thought of going to them for lead solder and after a quick call dropped in and collected some LT145 Soft Solder 1 metre 1.2mm dia . as I only live a few miles away from them. problem solved.


Thread: ML10 - racking of carriage?
24/06/2020 15:04:41

Hi Ignatz the terminology I would understand as to the movement of the saddle in such a matter is called crabbing. I usually is caused by the jib strips being loose or curved by wear. if you put a dial indicator on the saddle with the pointer resting on the side of the bed and move the saddle backwards and forwards and note the movement as to direction. You can check if the gib strip is lose at the same time and repeat the check after tightening it up. if the saddle becomes to tight to traverse towards the tailstock after tightening the bed is worn and needs attention. if the gig strip is worn you can mill a small amount off to flatten it and possibly relieve the centre area a few thou may help as well. have a look at the bed thickness as well you cam measure the thickness at various places along the length to see if there is any difference. let us know if this helps please.


Thread: Henry Fords 1896 Quadricycle Model
23/06/2020 08:07:12

Hi Brian it looks like you are progressing well but when I wanted to look back at your progress I had to search for your posts as they are all posted separately and not attached to first post. Sorry if I am wrong but sometimes I like to just wind back to earlier posts.


Thread: M Type Apron Direction
21/06/2020 15:46:55

Dave the handwheel is held on by a tapered pin. You may have to drill it out. I found my handwheel pin just wouldn't come out and after drilling a small hole in both ends I pushed the shaft out and then removed the taper pin bits. If you file and polish the ends of the pin before drilling you can just make out the circle of the ends before drilling.


21/06/2020 11:13:40

Hi Dave have sent you a message. At top of page when logged in personal message.


Thread: Making Parallels
21/06/2020 10:45:02

I have a selection of parallels which I have collected over the years. Although most of them are hardened and ground they are wide ranging from .75mm thick to 2 inch and some are buttons which are very usefull. I also hsve a set of adjustable parallels from Starrett which I bought when I was a bit younger and still use regularly to measure slots and use as parallels as well. The round button parallels are very usefull as you can bolt through them as well as spread them about to suit castings etc.



Thread: Tom Senior Suds Tank
19/06/2020 17:18:53

When I was in charge of toolmaking factories this was a bug bearer for me. The main problem was caused by oil from slideway lube system and cutting and tapping oil getting in to the coolant. This promotes the bacteria to grow and we installed skimmers and a mat floating on the coolant to absorb oil. We also put in a bacteriacide in to the coolant to also help prevent growth of bacteria. Also if the coolant is not used it also goes stale and the machines in the factory coolant was run evan if not on the work just to keep it circulating at least part of the day. If the coolant went off we had to pump it out and discard it, flush through with a cleaner to remove oily deposits pump that out and flush through with an antibacterial cleaner and discard that. Then we would refill with coolant and add another antibacterial to the coolant. A pain in the bum!. Try and keep it oil free perhaps if you are not using the coolant try to stop oil contamination and pump it around to stop it going off. Some of the machines I worked on held up to 2000 ltrs of coolant and the cost of getting rid of the old coolant was almost as much as the replacement new coolant.

Thread: Off cuts ?
16/06/2020 07:41:48

You should have a look at M machine metals they cut whatever size you need and have a good selection.


Thread: Machining cylinder from solid
13/06/2020 08:35:36

On this type of milling I have an angle plate which is square on all sides and edges so that I can rotate the angle plate and clamp it in various positions without removing the piece bolted to the angle plate. I can clamp a piece, mill one side, rotate the angle plate and then bore a hole or drill knowing that the axis are square and it is easy to clamp an angle plate in various positions. I have drilled many holes in it to suit the job in hand but it works many times.

angle plate.jpg


Thread: Parting off
12/06/2020 07:11:26

A rear toolpost is the way to go especially if you have a quick change toolpost. The forces on a tool when parting off have a different direction to turning and can be held better with a more solid rear toolpost. I made one for my lathe and wouldn't go back to front mounted one. Here is a couple of pictures of mine.


I can unclamp the top and just slide it in and out to suit job and it is still on center.



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