Here is a list of all the postings David George 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wobbly Lathe - some Advice please|
There should be a strip bolted to the rear of the saddle holding it down and some thing has either come lose or broken and you need to have a look at the rear underneath before you do any further damage. look underneath for a plate and bolts perhaps something has has come adrift and has got between the bed and saddle.
|Thread: Files - what do I need to know|
What do you want from a file and what are you filling. I have my best files and only use them for brass and bronze until they become slightly worn then they are demoted and replaced with a quality file and the older one used for steel and aluminium etc. I have a selection of hand flat, half round, three square, and square in three sizes 6 inch 8 inch and 12 inch for a start. Then i have a selection of needle files in flat, round three square, half round, round, and square in two grades of fine and medium cut that i can think off. then i have a couple of setts of rifler files in different sizes and shapes. then I have couple of sets of diamond files again in various shapes and cut. I think there may be a few i have forgot like the single cut bastard i use for roughing out aluminium plastic and wood but hey ho. you can not have to many files but dont buy cheap files as some of mine are at least 30 years old.
|Thread: Manual threading on the lathe - problems|
Hi Jim when using my tailstock die holder I start with the die opened to maximum diamiter, using the center pointed screw, to make the thread as large as possible first. I find that taking a smaller first cut and then closing down subsequent cuts till you get correct thread size works best. Make sure that the center screw has a point that opens up the die when tightened and to loosen the two outer screws to allow the die to expand first then nipping them when adjusted. I bought a cheap steel die from Tracy Tools recently, i only wanted it for one item,and the first time I used it I expanded it and it broke into two when I expanded it. I rang them and they said no problem and in the post next day there was a new HSS die free supplied.
|Thread: Rejoice, Rejoice, I have at long last achieved something!|
On repairing original work lamps, they had a brass bulb holder with ceramic contact insulator insides. No problem with them overheating and smelling and there is an earth connector on the holder as well. I bought them from local electrical supplier.
|Thread: Jones and Shipman 540 Dripping|
Hi Bob nice to see you are still working on the grinder, how about a few pictures. I have seen many tanks on these with holes in. Any coolant, which is made by mixing water wuth soluble oil , gets into the tank and it sinks to the bottom of the 32 grade hydraulic oil which floats on water. The coolant deteriorates and causes rust to eat through bottom of tank. I have used a resin 2 part paint to court the entire inside of the tank and that after shot blasting first fills any holes and proofs against leaks.
Good luck and keep safe.
|Thread: micrometer heads - assembly|
Hi Gerry what machine is that it looks like a jig borer.?
|Thread: straight shank adapter for MT2/MT3 drill bits|
Look up Rotabor cutters a lot safer than drills in a hand held drill.
|Thread: Look out, here comes a woodturner|
Hi Calum welcome to the forum. You are not the only woodwind instrument player repaired on here. There is a lot of information on here about soldering and brazing and have a look at Cup Alloys web site for info as well as give them a call for what best to use as well.
|Thread: Er25 collets|
Hi Jeremy you can use meteric ER 25 collets to hold imperial cutters as long as they are less than 1 mm deflection. You can use a 10 MM collet to hold a 3/8 inch cutter.
|Thread: Gloves and machine tools - my stupidity.|
At a company I worked for we used to make dies for Wadingtons for punching out cards for games. They were hand stoned round the radius corners for perfection and the toolmaker wore a chain mail glove. One person thought that he would wear it whilst drilling some thin plate and whilst drilling tried to flick some swarf from the drill whilst spinning. The glove caught up the drill and spun round de-gloving his index finger and drilling into the back of his hand between two fingers.
|Thread: GHT Rear Toolpost 8deg milling cutter|
Hi Salty I made a rear toolpost a while ago and made a cutter from a slot drill. It was a straight flute cutter about 10mm diamiter I ground one side away and then by hand ground the angle using a protractor to check angle. I then tried it out to check angle adjust and checked again.
Happy New Year too all🤞🏻🍻
|Thread: Milling on a mini lathe|
(I started a Stuart model lathe on my M Type Myford lathe and bought a vertical slide for the milling and after making a adaptor plate it worked but I had to be creative on how to hold parts. I have a small toolmakers vice which can be held on the slide and I bought a collet chuck which fitted into the spindle. But after working on many machines, Bridgeport,Micron and others at work I found it slow and finaly bought a small mill.
It works ok but a mill as well takes a lot of work out of projects.
|Thread: face milling|
Hi Frank what diamiter is the cutter and what style is the tip and what material are you cutting. It sounds like you are running it to slow perhaps a picture may help if you can post as well.
Hi welcome to the forum. There are loads of information and helpful people on here who can give ideas on how to solve problems etc. Perhaps you can give information as well.
Hi Richard welcome to the forum. You never finish learning about metal plastics and machining them at nearly 70 and an engineer since an apprentice at 17 years old i am still learning and still making the odd error or mistake. Join a group or club if you can, there is always someone with hands on experience if only how to make a tool or show you anything.
|Thread: Drilling through bronze|
Just use a small boring bar like one on right to bore small holes. Made from a piece of HSS ground by hand.
Hi Peter I drill under size first about 1/2 inch deep and then with a small boring bar skim the hole to size which makes the hole run true then when you continue the drill to size it follows the true hole.
|Thread: Moore & Wright 903|
Hi Peter welcome to the forum. The collar is a hardened and ground piece which is a spacer to adjust the anvil by the range that you have bought. There are four different models made 1-2 2-8 2-12 8-33 and still available as well as the spares. The anvil is held in by the screw from the side and loosened to remove, then you slide the spacer collar over the anvil shank, making sure that it is clean and then tighten side screw. The handle is a split ring with attached tube that has a long screw which clamps round the end of the micromiter just to hold it down a long hole. Have a look at the Bowers Group web site as they are the makers of the Moor and Wright range now. The collar could be made from a piece of silver steel which is easily hardened and then lapped to length depending of your accuracy needed or buy a replacement. The screw is easily turned depending what the thread is and you have a die and knurling tool to suit screw.
|Thread: Case hardening a part with tapped holes.|
Copper is used to protect parts from case hardening. Screw a short screw made of copper, with a small head, in to the top of the thread before carburising.
|Thread: Oil proof brush?|
I have always used engineers swarf brush which has a 10mm round wooden handle and a 20mm wide flat metal piece with black natural bristles 20 mm wide which are unaffected by oil. I just pick a couple up from local engineer supplier when I have wrecked by milling the bristles of by mistake etc.
Edited By David George 1 on 18/12/2020 08:00:42
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