Here is a list of all the postings Martin Hamilton 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Advice on Choosing A Mini Lathe|
Not sure if the Sherline is more a micro lathe, i can echo what has been said about how good the Sherline's are. It certainly punches well & truly above it's weight in my opinion, a lathe this tiny that has 40mm of travel on the tailstock & 100mm travel on the crossslide & 17" between centers with options to raise the center height to 3" if required with additional riser blocks. Good powerfull motors for a lathe this small that run cool with variable speeds from 70 rpm - 2800 rpm, i had been aware of Sherline's for more than 40 years but they never looked that interesting. How wrong i was until i bought a new one a couple of weeks ago along with 3.1" 3 jaw s/c chuck, 3.1" 4 jaw s/c chuck. 3.1" 4 jaw independent chuck, compound slide, fixed steady + various other trinkets. I was amazed at the level of work & accuracy this little lathe is capable of, i can use carbide insert tools & hss & achieve as good as ground finish off the tool on Mild steel, stainless steel, silver steel + brass & aluminium finish is unbelievable. The accuracy on turning parrallel is within .0001" after setting the head stock, the chucks are works of art. My Sherline 4 jaw s/c chuck runs within .001" run out, the lathe is also capable of taking some serious cuts when roughing down with no chatter. The adjustable back lash adjuster on the cross slide is also capable of reducing back lash to .001" - .0015", bearing in mind of course this is a very basic small lathe that has no power feed or powered screw cutting only manual screw cutting with the extra attachment. This lathe suited my needs these days for what i need to make so was ideal for me & am very happy indeed with this purchase.
|Thread: Toolroom lathe?|
|Thread: ER25 or MT2 Collets|
I also have a set of the Farion er25 collets that Barrie mentions, they are not the cheapest of collets but they are very accurate.
|Thread: Toolroom lathe?|
Andy what are your thoughts on the little WM180 lathe now that you have used it some, perhaps your experience with using it will benefit others looking towards WM180 or similar size lathes whilst keeping in mind there limitations. Regards Martin.
|Thread: Lathe info|
They have this lathe pictured on lathes.co.uk as a Colchester Master circa 1930 - 1939.
|Thread: Hardened Silver Steel Shattered - How to Avoid?|
When i used to make waterscrew hydro props cut from solid bar i used to harden & temper in the same way as the couplings that i described above except the tempering was done slower in the oven to straw colour over a longer period in the household oven. I done this in the oven so that the very thin blades were an even temp all along the props, using a direct flame got uneven heat in the thin blades towards the tips of the blades. These props were not silver steel as silver steel was not tough enough due to the loads put on them turning @ 30000rpm in water, i used en24T for props to cut them from followed by the hardening & tempering.
Edited By Martin Hamilton 1 on 08/03/2019 21:05:20
I said that the wrong way round ( senior moment ), part would be heated to red hot & then plunged into oil. Then cleaned up & reheated to straw colour & then plunged into cold water, brain cooked with all the methanol in the fuel.
For 40 years when i built & raced tethered hydro's i done a lot of hardening & tempering of silver steel. The ball & socket couplings that we made needed to be hard but tough including a very small pin in the ball side of the couplings, used to heat red hot & plunge into cold water. That made them very hard but to brittle, to temper them down i would clean the outer surface of the bit of scale that had formed with emery cloth to bring the metal back to a shiny colour then heat to straw colour & plunge into oil. Old used motor oil used to work well but also used new motor oil if i had no old stuff about, never ever had any coupling failures or excessive wear.
|Thread: Quality issues with a SIEG SX2.7 mini mill|
'Electrical' scraper, aka belt sander.
|Thread: Lathe Identification|
It seems likely that Wilfin lathes may actually have been manufactured by A. Fielding & Co of Keighley, as it looks like William Findlay were machine tool suppliers.
That certainly looks like the Wilfin lathe that is pictured over on lathes.co.uk.
|Thread: New coffee maker - disgusting taste!|
You will all be reminiscing about Smedleys tinned sausage rolls soon, who remembers them from the 1950's or 1960's. Where you opened the tin at both ends & pushed out 6 or 8 sausage rolls that were rolled together, separated them onto a baking tray & in the oven to cook. Came out the oven piping hot with a delicious flaky pastry, what a treat they were.
We bought a decent quality Breville plastic kettle & right from the start no funny tastes at all. Got fed up with the Tesco £12 plastic kettles failing at the bayonet fitting that connects the kettle to the base, we had 3 of these fail in total with 1 of them failing after about a month. They always seem to have a funny taste more so when new even after doing the mandatory boiling a number of times before using them when new.
|Thread: Buying lathes direct from China|
For the minimal savings you might or might not see i would not go that route of importing direct from China. Simply not worth the possible unseen problems that might develop.
|Thread: Filling defects in slideways|
You can buy Lab metal in the UK from Caswel Europe who are in Hampshire tel 01252 560515, they only sell it as a kit 700 ml Lab metal + 500 ml of solvent for £80 + £7 postage. I have nothing to do with this company.
|Thread: WM180 Saddle adjustment|
Andy i dont do any thread cutting these days, not even turning anything to large or heavy in the lathe. More just pretty simple straight forward turning/drilling/boring, i dont even have much call for parting off with what i do as its just as easy for me to hacksaw things off & clean up. Having owned in the past a couple of Myfords ML 10 & ML 7 + an Emcomat V10P, the WM180 would probably do all i need to do if am honest but because the WM240 is only 310 quid dearer it may be a better buy.
I have thought about the WM180 lathe with x 300 mm between centres, but am also thinking about do i go a bit larger & get a WM 240 with 400 mm between centres + a much heavier more capable machine. Not really down to price though as the WM180 with DRO is £1150 & the WM240 is £1460 with no DRO, as i dont really need DRO other than it would be handy at times if it came fitted on a lathe i was buying. Decisions to make ? on which to go for.
Great news that it worked out Jim, did you skim the blocks on the lathe or mill them flat. Regards Martin.
|Thread: Decoding Ser# of Emcomat 8.4/8.6 Lathe|
From memory the Emco V10P that i used to have had the serial number stamped on the top of the bed @ the tail stock end of the bed. It was stamped in the shallow groove that runs the length of the bed directly behind the front way.
|Thread: lathe wanted|
To late i know but there was probably the best condition Boxford AUD long bed lathe with lots of tooling around today. Its in the for sale section on Lathes.co.uk, it sold last week in 2 days of the add being placed for £2500.
Edited By Martin Hamilton 1 on 10/02/2019 23:33:12
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