Here is a list of all the postings Martin Hamilton 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Quality issues with a SIEG SX2.7 mini mill|
I know ARC dosn't issue accuracy certificates with there machines but there are a number of other sellers that do re the same or very similar machines made in China. When you see the accuracy certificate that they state on every machine the customer gets it does make you wonder if these are simply stamped pieces of paper with lies told on them to fool the customer. When you look into some of these machines where very experienced engineers know how to check there machines & have the facilities to put things right, must say things were never machined right during original manufacture. I do know that a seller of Chinese machines told me when i asked them about the certificate that came with the machines said the certificate done in the Chinese factory was only valid for the day the test was done & no more than that. A clear way out in my book, i know they have no control on what happens once the machines leave there factory's. The certificate is not worth the paper it is printed on, i know these machines might be cheap but why try & fool the customers into believing they are getting a machine that is more accurate than what they actually are from day one.
'Electrical' scraper, aka belt sander.
|Thread: Lathe Identification|
It seems likely that Wilfin lathes may actually have been manufactured by A. Fielding & Co of Keighley, as it looks like William Findlay were machine tool suppliers.
That certainly looks like the Wilfin lathe that is pictured over on lathes.co.uk.
|Thread: New coffee maker - disgusting taste!|
You will all be reminiscing about Smedleys tinned sausage rolls soon, who remembers them from the 1950's or 1960's. Where you opened the tin at both ends & pushed out 6 or 8 sausage rolls that were rolled together, separated them onto a baking tray & in the oven to cook. Came out the oven piping hot with a delicious flaky pastry, what a treat they were.
We bought a decent quality Breville plastic kettle & right from the start no funny tastes at all. Got fed up with the Tesco £12 plastic kettles failing at the bayonet fitting that connects the kettle to the base, we had 3 of these fail in total with 1 of them failing after about a month. They always seem to have a funny taste more so when new even after doing the mandatory boiling a number of times before using them when new.
|Thread: Buying lathes direct from China|
For the minimal savings you might or might not see i would not go that route of importing direct from China. Simply not worth the possible unseen problems that might develop.
|Thread: Filling defects in slideways|
You can buy Lab metal in the UK from Caswel Europe who are in Hampshire tel 01252 560515, they only sell it as a kit 700 ml Lab metal + 500 ml of solvent for £80 + £7 postage. I have nothing to do with this company.
|Thread: WM180 Saddle adjustment|
Andy i dont do any thread cutting these days, not even turning anything to large or heavy in the lathe. More just pretty simple straight forward turning/drilling/boring, i dont even have much call for parting off with what i do as its just as easy for me to hacksaw things off & clean up. Having owned in the past a couple of Myfords ML 10 & ML 7 + an Emcomat V10P, the WM180 would probably do all i need to do if am honest but because the WM240 is only 310 quid dearer it may be a better buy.
I have thought about the WM180 lathe with x 300 mm between centres, but am also thinking about do i go a bit larger & get a WM 240 with 400 mm between centres + a much heavier more capable machine. Not really down to price though as the WM180 with DRO is £1150 & the WM240 is £1460 with no DRO, as i dont really need DRO other than it would be handy at times if it came fitted on a lathe i was buying. Decisions to make ? on which to go for.
Great news that it worked out Jim, did you skim the blocks on the lathe or mill them flat. Regards Martin.
|Thread: Decoding Ser# of Emcomat 8.4/8.6 Lathe|
From memory the Emco V10P that i used to have had the serial number stamped on the top of the bed @ the tail stock end of the bed. It was stamped in the shallow groove that runs the length of the bed directly behind the front way.
|Thread: lathe wanted|
To late i know but there was probably the best condition Boxford AUD long bed lathe with lots of tooling around today. Its in the for sale section on Lathes.co.uk, it sold last week in 2 days of the add being placed for £2500.
Edited By Martin Hamilton 1 on 10/02/2019 23:33:12
|Thread: WM180 Saddle adjustment|
By the way Steve Jordan done a video on Youtube on his Chinese Mini lathe to eliminate saddle movement further ( bearing in mind the Mini lathes do have adjusting screws both front & rear of the saddle). He added a shear plate under the saddle that runs in between the bed gap & under the bed ways. He says this made a big difference on the lathe.
Funnily enough i started a thread yesterday on the forum on this very subject on lathes with no saddle adjustments to take out movement. The problem with the carriage lock method whether it be the standard or modded carriage lock dosn't help with eliminating movement when turning longitudinally. Even when parting off using the carriage lock you can still get up & down movement on the rear of the saddle as the carriage clamp only clamps the front of the saddle just at one end of the front & nothing towards the rear of the saddle.
|Thread: Lathe Saddle to Ways adjustment|
Neil i think you will find a lot of the various brands of Chinese machines like Warco, Chester, Amadeal etc do not have any adjusting screws on the shear plates. They just have the fixings that attach the shears to the saddle with the exception of the Mini lathes. I dont know if the SC4 has adjusters on the shear plates as i have not looked in that area when i saw an SC4.
Barrie not yet, was just looking as there is so little out there re very good little used Emco's any more.
Yes that was the easiest why i had thought as well, possibly over cut when milling the shear plate then using appropriate shims to fine tune along the shear plates length.
It is lift i am referring to & not any wear on the ways or saddle ( new machines ), most of these machines don't appear to have any shims between the saddle & shear plates to remove or re shim as the shear plates are bolted on with excess clearance to the ways in some cases.
It just seems an area that you cant adjust re any chatter you may get especially on some smaller machines like a Warco WM 180 that dosn't have a lot of weight to the saddle/apron/cross slide/compound assembly. I know even on Mini lathes that do have adjusters some like Steve Jordan on Youtube mod these saddles further still to improve & eliminate movement further.
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