Here is a list of all the postings Joseph Noci 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Grinding wheel 'washers'|
Thin Gasket sheet from your local motor-spares supply works very well - I use around 0.6mm material. In my town, around £3 for a half square meter. Use the rest on your model engines..
|Thread: Small Metric Screws|
I have a number of times imported a variety of types of tiny fasteners from these chaps in West Sussex. - Not in the last 3 years though..
Speak to Steve Craven - +44 (0) 1342 717582
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 03/10/2019 22:16:32
|Thread: New lathe?|
John, you will be surprised how easy it is, esp in a mnfr environment where pressured by time..
I had abt 60 short Ali inserts to make - each had a mm12 thread through, abt 9mm long - you get into the swing of it, drill, retract, swap drill for tap, tap, retract, swap tap for drill, move tailstock out the way, bring in parting tool, part off and repeat. And when you are focused on the cutting edge(s), and you know where to put you hands on things without looking, you swing that arm to push the tailstock back, once a little more enthusiastically than needed, ...and it carries on sliding on a nicely lubed bed..and falls off the end...onto the handwheel...Yes, some lathes don't have a stop at that end, the V10P was one of them...
Definitely the better choice - vastly superior - I have a 40 year old V10P, and a new 14D (much later version of the Super-11) . Both superb, while the V10 is my go-to lathe every day..
However, check as best you can for wear - esp the bed near the chuck - sometimes a lot of backlash in the cross slide leadscrew indicates a lot of use as well. If you can get to the machine, nip up the cross slide gibs while working the cross slide back and forth - if the slide is loose near the middle 1/3 and very tight in others ( normally 2/3 towards end of travel either way) , then its normally a good indicator of having worked very hard...
Spares are not to easy to come by, esp things like cross slides, etc. You may even find a new bed, but thats not worth the money then..Leadscrews and nuts are still available. Some handwheels too. If you are not into big models, nicely restored, that Super-11 will be your last lathe purchase!
Edit - to add - Also, put the drive gear train in 'neutral' - select 'between' gears, so the spindle is free. do the 'ear-bone' sound test while spinning the chuck by hand slowly, listening to the bearing spot at the chuck end. You will hear any not-so-nice bearing rumble quite easily. ( use a 200-300mm long solid screwdriver, tip to the bearing spot on the headstock- behind the chuck- and screwdriver handle firm against your skull at the ear hole..) - Or, if you are a doctor and have a stethoscope...Reason to do this is that the bearings are so far un-obtainable in original spec...I have a Super-11 in restoration and cannot get bearings for any money..
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 02/10/2019 10:36:45
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 02/10/2019 10:42:31
|Thread: Filter Design Wizard|
Nice Neil! Interesting how many 'enabling' hobbies we all seem to have. ( Not a fan of that word, though..)
I'm pretty sure you don't need to log in to use the Analog Devices calculator.
Not necessary to log in, but I had to register on site first to be able to use it - as it can store your files in their 'cloud' - (Yuk!) -
KiwiB - On the Linkwitz - here's a spreadsheet calculator - you probably have it if you are playing with this stuff..
But to simulate I have not seen anything specific to this application. However, I DO recommend LT_Spice - free and not difficult with many examples and many Tuts.
The spreadsheet helps with the data does do most of what you may need though?
Yep, I use that one quite a bit, but must say I almost prefer the Texas Instruments one - both very good .
I dabble a lot in building Ham Radios, and use op-amp filters in the audio chain, esp. for direct conversion receivers, where the filters should be low noise with LOTS of gain.
Use LT_Spice for simulation - very good.
However, the BEST filter design program ever was Texas Inst. Filter-Pro vers 2. That no longer exists -
Ver 3.1 is available, but it is so full of bugs - poor.
The replacement TI version is, like the AD one, all on line, which personally I hate. Means you have to register, have to be online, etc. Suppose that's the trend these days ( Fusion, etc..). There are MANY very useful little 'calculator' programs, esp in the RF and AF field, and most of them have moved to .php programs that have to run from the website, online. So, back to the good old calculator and brain cells most of the time..!
I suppose I also have an aversion to providing my personal info on website after website..
high-pass filter for my bass guitar - Sound like a contradiction in terms...
What PCB CAD do you use and where did you get the PCB made?
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 30/09/2019 07:51:14
|Thread: Anyone made Myfordboy's powered hacksaw?|
Yes, I am very happy with it. Cuts straight in stoke as well as vertically. However, that was achieved by having good adjustment capability in the saw frame - the frame is all bolted construction, so that the forward and rear vertical struts can be adjusted in vertical angle, independently , allowing the blade to track perpendicularly to the saw vice, and in a vertical manner. The entire saw can also rotate a few degrees clock/anti-clock on the base to ensure a square cut as well. Welding up the blade frame would imply putting the adjustment mechanism in some other part of the machine somehow.
The Myfordboy saw has a very short stroke, which is ok when cutting large material, occupying a large length of the blade all the time. I have two crank pin position that are easily changed - 15 seconds or so - that give a mid length and a full length stroke - the mid length caters for material up to 80mm diameter, the full lenght for material to 40mm diameter.
I also first made a hydraulic lift mechanism to lift the blade on return - it worked very well, but I found by proper implementation of the crank center of rotation in vertical relation to the blade frame con-rod attachment position, it was very easy to get blade lift on the return stoke - the rising crank pin ( the 'big-end' on the forward return stroke pushes the frame up, and the falling crank pin on power stroke pulls the frame down, ie, the blade is pulled into the work.
Take a look from around 55sec into the video - you can see the frame up and down motion quite nicely - all the way into maybe 1.5 minutes into the video.
Clive Foster said:
If you want a quick build might be worth looking into replacing the built up from hexagon bar slide system with one of the linear rail and bearing block systems that can be got quite inexpensively these days.
I had also hoped this would work since it would save some DIY pains - I made a test frame and gantry and it worked ok - was noisy - the little balls in the slide block did not like a 100 strokes/min at all; even 60/min was not nice..I had my doubts though, and that noise translated into ball failure after about 3 hours of running at 100 strokes/min - lubrication was a bit difficult as the slide block has a wiper to keep grit out of the balls, and it would wipe away most of any lube applied. The blocks and rails I used were SKF ( damn expensive!) , the rail is a 40mm wide 20mm high rail, and I used two long blocks - 75mm long each.
I tend to runthe saw at 80 to 120 strokes/min all the time - anything slower is frustrating!
EDIT - eliminating errant emoji's!
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 13/09/2019 07:15:41
At the risk of boring this forum with even more of the same of my photo's...
I built my own version of a power hacksaw, so cannot say if the plans you have are good, but it seems there are quite a few builders out there who are happy with it.
My version also uses Hex bar for the gantry and slide - I did beef up the size of the bar and the blade holder/slide has been strengthened so it does not flex to much when applying blade tension. Also made a hydraulic damper, etc...
Not sure how to give a link to my posts on this as I cannot direct the link to my post exactly..but here goes -
If that does not work - a photo or three..
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 09/09/2019 07:07:14
|Thread: Any one used a digital microscope for micro turning on a lathe|
I tried, both on the lathe and on a small cutter grinder shaping very fine engraving tips. I did not manage well with the digital camera/microscope method. Using such a device requires that you select a type that does not have any image latency - most of the IP ( network type) camera have a good few hundred milliseconds latency which makes eye-hand coordination difficult and tedious - it is possible, but there is no room to maneuver and 'oops' reactions are interesting.
There are USB based cameras that have for practical purposes no latency, but there are three issues with any digital solution I find intolerable.
The image resolution is one - you should try for the highest pixel count you can - at least HD standard, NOT VGA...With low resolutions I found the specular artifacts drove me insane, with rapid onset of eye strain and headache.
The second is the difficulty in becoming accustomed to the misdirection between hand position and motion, and eye sightline. One is so accustomed to the hands on the handwheel in your peripheral vision, it takes a while to adapt. Not impossible, but when you only do a few jobs like this, I found it was like starting from scratch each time.
And last, for me the worst compromise - lack of depth of view - no 3D feeling - with a constant attempt to now and then 'look' around the corner to see the tool contact point better, etc.
I ditched all these - I did try no less than 5 systems, from VGA through to a 34Mpixel camera..- and settled for a decent 'analogue' Binocular Microscope.
This has its problems as well - it is always in the way when you want to take a visual of the workspace. You need a really decent support or suspension arm that is sturdy,vibration free, and easily manipulated with the ability to quickly swing it out of the way, and index it back in place.. But the viewing experience, with much improved mental and eye fatigue resistance, is in my opinion well worth it.
Photo of engraving tip through the microscope - hard to photograph!
For interest, My late Father-in-Law - a German Watchmaker, used the little lathe pictured below to do what you are doing Chris - he used to do so by clamping various magnification jewellers Loupe to his eye, bend down low over the lathe and get on with it...
|Thread: 4 jaw Self centering chuck recommendations please|
Not a 4 jaw, but I am not happy with my Sanou 3 jaw - the jaws are very loose in the body. in axis of the chuck.
Dial set to zero, with the jaw press up against the scroll in the direction of the dial ( finger pressing is out of image on the right)
Then lifting the front of the jaw up, away from the body, while keeping the jaw pressed against the scroll in the dial direction...
There is a similar amount of movement from side to side...
Holding any part that is shorter than the length of the jaws is a mess - the jaws simply bell-mouth, and not to the same amount...
I honestly believe that skimping on the chuck is a big waste of money. You pay big bucks for your lathe, and assuming its good, with good bearings, a good spindle and register, then spoil it with a mediocre chuck...which you have to argue with every time you use the lathe. Maybe a good chuck has a price to balk at, but treated well it will last your lifetime.
This Sanou is now used in a jig I made for stamping numbers of handwheel peripheries - it's only good when hammered..
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 03/09/2019 10:53:49
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Just a play on 'words' - black bamboo...black mamba...
Quite prominent in my playgrounds...from egg to 1meter in 1 year, grow to 3meters typicaly, and can move at up to 12mph in sand..Keep your shears handy! one of the most venomous snakes about.
Sorry, nothing to do with anything being discussed on this forum at all..
|Thread: Cooled Astro Cam Conversion|
Won't the fan vibration blur the image a little, esp during long exposures?
Michael's got it...To cool the sensor.
|Thread: Ultrasonic toothbrushes|
And then there's this...
|Thread: Current leakage om CNC|
Also from XD 351:
A question i would like to ask is what voltage do the steppers operate at ? If it is around 40v then you have a serious power supply problem , i would try isolating the power supply from the machine and see if the problem disappears.
Actually, it matters little where the leakage is from in terms of safety. The current seems happy to find a way through Fizzy's wrist, arm, heart, and whatever route it finds to some or other ground somewhere, anywhere, EXCEPT via the mains plug earth pin! Fix that first then worry about what is causing the leakage, if you need to. 5uA leakage or even more is very common with the mains input filer caps, so its not a crisis, IF you have a proper earth in place.
|Thread: Anyone good at fault finding with amplifiers here?|
Very Nice Neil! And with 'improvements'!
Am busy trying to repair a 4KW Phonic stereo amp at the moment...All transistors, some FET's, no IC's.
Uses split supply rails as usual, but dual rail, ±55volt and ±120volt. The output stage has 16 transistors - 8NPN and 8PNP in parallel. These receive the ±55 rail when running below 1KW / 4ohms and there are some big FETs that then switch the 55volt rail out and the 120volt rails smoothly in..gives almost 4KW into 2 ohms...
13 Transistors in the input stages, 4 long tailed pairs..and 12 transistors in the output stages, excluding the 16 power output tranny's.
No scoundrels way out on this one..
We also have tons of mica here - literally mountains of it. Maybe that's why it is often dull and grey here in Swakop...Any light entering is trapped inside sheets of Mica and can never leave - out own Hotel California for light..
|Thread: Current leakage om CNC|
I cannot see how this can be a substitute for a properly earthed system!
Fizzy, as you measured 120v to earth, there is OBVIOUSLY a missing earth connection. Use your meter on ohms scale, unplug the machine from the mains and measure between the machines cable end earth pin on the plug, and all over the machine's metal parts. If you do not get close to zero ohms then the machine's earth connection is faulty and NEEDS fixing.
If you do find close to zero ohms, then the problem lies either in the wall socket, or the machines power plug-to-wall-socket connection, ie, maybe the earth pin does not make good connection to the earth socket.
If you are not comfortable fiddling in the mains wall socket, get an electrician to do it for you - the earth socket receptacle is normally a stamped form sheet metal receptacle the envelopes the earth pin - sort of split tines that make contact. If these are spread apart and no longer make contact, then you have no earth. Or maybe the earth wires in the wall socket was not inserted properly.
Can you try another wall socket, preferably on a different breaker circuit even? And please, use you voltmeter to do the '120v measurement to ground' , NOT your wrist!
You need to get to the bottom of this - if this leakage is caused by the noise suppressor capacitors on the mains input, that current MUST be drained to ground/earth. I repeat, if those capacitors are present on your machine, should any one develop a shorts circuit, the body of your machine will be fully live, at 220VAC and will kill you if a proper earth connection is not present..The present setup circumvents the purpose of the distribution board's earth leakage trip switch and you have NO protection at all with this setup. Salty wet sponges will not save you life!
More than likely the capacitors from live and neutral to ground, in the mains input connector/filter somewhere causing the slight, and correct, leakage, if if they are present. HOWEVER!! the system should be earthed - ALL metalic parts connected together and to mains earth. If not, and one of those caps goes short circuit, you are DEAD!
|Thread: Anyone good at fault finding with amplifiers here?|
Yep, I know the typical thermal compounds/greases are insulators - was just wondering why copperslip is non-conductive...
Anyhow, rather than greases which are really messy when you repair a lot of amps..I have for many years been using a sheet material - the on I use is called ChoTherm - comes in various thicknesses sheets up to around 400mm x 400mm. Just cut to shape and size and fit between the component and heat sink. Heat conductivity performance tables provided with each, and they rival or surpass thermal grease performance. I have even used some that are a 'sheet' of pliable 'jelly' - does not really flow, but used to fit between tops of components and a combined heat sink / lid - cut a sheet section and place on top of the parts and fit/press the lid on - squeezing the stuff into all the crevices and spaces. It works very well, conducts heat nicely, and if you need to work on the parts, just lift the lid and peel the stuff out - it all comes out in one piece and is re-usable. Made by RayChem.
Guess I'm drifting off topic here, but seeing as Neil's amp is all fixed, I suppose we can..
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