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Member postings for Joseph Noci 1

Here is a list of all the postings Joseph Noci 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What make Car is this?
08/08/2022 20:43:34

Jon, I think you may have it!



08/08/2022 19:16:33

Photo of my Dad in around 1955/56 in front of his Cabinetry Works in Bethlehem, orange Free State RSA - 2 years before I was born...He was an Italian POW in Zonderwater near Pretoria, and at the end of the war decided to stay on in RSA and started a Cabinetry business in Bethlehem.

I found this photo lost in a box off old photo's - Any ideas on what make the vehicle is? I know he had a Morris Oxford, and another Morris 1000 Traveller - He told me how he had replaced all the woodwork which had developed 'woodworm' in Bethlehem...Later in life, I had a Morris Minor 1000, 2 door,  My Mom, had a 4 door, and we had another Morris Minor, the 850 side valve...

Morris seemed to be in the Families Blood, but the Bethlehem car eludes me...

Joedad in bethlehem.jpg

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 08/08/2022 19:18:30

Thread: Perhaps not the wildlife photograph of the year......
08/08/2022 17:17:26

joe and buddy.jpg

musketeers dart prep.jpg



All in my Back Yard...

Thread: Help! What is going on?
23/07/2022 08:00:55

Thursday I used my small cnc mill to do some tapping - many M3 tapped holes in Al. When done I used the mill in manual mode to drill some 2mm holes in mild steel plate - Like John, could not drill the holes - the mild steel was as hard as Hades...I snapped one 2mm drill in the process. Tried to drill the same hole in the Drill press and it worked a charm...The Mill spindle was left in reverse and I did not see it..


Thread: Emco unimat pc cnc
22/07/2022 07:48:13
Posted by sam sokolik on 21/07/2022 21:45:42:

If you want to just get going the least expensive - $10 break out board, couple stepper drives and a computer with a parallel port would get you cutting.

You could also make really nice threads with a 25 to 100 line encoder + index. (parallel port would handle that too)


With what software and what OS Sam? I also believe the steppers on the unimat pc cnc are uni-polar connection only - drivers for such are not as common as bi-polar stuff.


21/07/2022 15:50:41

Hello Trevor. Welcome to the clan....

Do you have only the mechanics? Or do you have the controller/pc as well?

If only the lathe with steppers, then if you really want to get it working as a cnc learner, you have some effort ahead!

This links to a PDF that gives all the info how that machine was in its heyday - you need the electronic interface and a DOS pc and the EMCo software if you want to try run it as original and I think that is impossible...


The only practical way I could suggest is to go the MACH 3 or 4 route - Window PC, MACH3 or 4 software plus its hardware interface, 2 x stepper driver modules with a power supply....

Someone else may be able to suggest something simpler - maybe GRBL type system ( I am not familiar with that so cannot comment) .

There is of course Linux CNC, but don't get me started on that...

What is your modelling/work background? Mech eng/Electronic..???

It is a 'small' challenge to make this work if it is out of your comfort zone!



Thread: hydraulic symbol
20/07/2022 21:49:31
Posted by duncan webster on 20/07/2022 21:26:04:

anyone know what this is, sorry for the poor image


3 way Pressure Reducing valve

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 20/07/2022 21:51:13

Thread: Rev. Counter
14/07/2022 08:49:55

RC flyers have some neat optical RPM sensors, handheld, that work quite well. Aimed at the plane's prop and it senses the break in rear lighting and seems to work well. They are also available in reflective type used often to find RPM of brushless outrunners by placing a 5mm or so section of black or silver tape on the motor housing and aiming at it. They are iffi at low RPM I find - below 20 rpm or so - I suspect mainly due to the jitter in RPM in sensorless brushless motors at such low RPM's - Ans IC RC engines may not work that well at 20rpm...

Check the local hobby RC shops..

Thread: What Did you do Today 2022
10/07/2022 08:17:27
Posted by Steviegtr on 09/07/2022 22:48:19:

Hi Joseph. The exam i took in 1989 was the RAE. At that time morse code was still an active part of the future exams. But as someone below has remarked, that was scrapped & no longer a part of the tests. The main limits of the Foundation licence are with the max 10W power. But most frequencies are open to use. I am M7DOZ. I simply rang Ofcom & asked the question. They emailed me a application form. I sent this back filled in , with copies of my City & Guilds Certificates.


Interesting - Thanks Howi and Steve. Morse is dropped here (Namibia - and in RSA) - RAE options are the usual exam, or present a suitable project, ie, a 'reasonably' complex Radio receiver or tx/rx ( not regen, etc) , properly documented, and explain the build, design drivers, how it works, etc. Problem here is that the explainor might know what he is talking about, the explainee has no idea at all and listens blankly... If you lapse your ticket, you redo it all..

Ham Radio is a difficult hobby - this part of the world it is dominated by us Old Farts and the entry has been rather dumbed down to try and make it easier for new blood - that has not worked here - to many other easier tech's for the young folk to be enthralled by!

So to keep in line with the thread heading - What I Did just finished my weekly chat on the Namibian Ham Sunday morning bulletin..


Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 10/07/2022 08:19:36

08/07/2022 20:42:00
Posted by Steviegtr on 08/07/2022 18:59:55:

Grinned from ear to ear. My Radio Ham licence came through. I only took my City & Guilds RAE exam in 1989. But they still accepted them.


How did it 'come through'? How does an '89 result qualify for a current Amateur License in the UK? Or is the Tech Exam no longer required in the UK? Like a CB 'license'..?

What' your callsign?



Thread: EMCO FB2 mill Z-axis nut stripped
29/06/2022 20:44:43

I second most of what you said Dave. But I still believe the method is not bad. No good in a production setup maybe, but the FB2 is a hobby machine.

I spend a fair time in the workshop, but the FB2 and the lathes work maybe 5-8 hours/week and I find I adjust the backlash on the FB2 maybe every three or four years.

On the lathe the backlash is ignored anyway - as you say, with DRO it matters little. The FB2 also has DRO, but baclash on XY is important to me there. It helps prevent issues with normal/climb milling trying to pull the opposite axis into the cut.

29/06/2022 12:28:22
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 29/06/2022 11:37:08:

Original nut is, I believe, a zinc alloy, Mazak/Zamak, etc. 7075 has been mentioned as a nut material. Honest question: is this a wise choice? In the back of my mind, a small voice is saying that the stuff is abrasive, and wears cutting tools quickly. Quite likely mistaken, though.

Nuts can be obtained from EMCO Austria still - pricey I guess.

7075 does not wear cutters much worse than any of the other Al grades really - it's all related to cutting speeds and feeds, and lubricant. Carbide drills in 7075 wear when speeds are high and no cooling occurs - the Al adheres and forces grow, chipping the cutting edge. There is around 0.2% Si and Cr in 7075, where its 'toughness' is derived, but I would not say it is abrasive. Be careful of choice of bronze - some are very hard - try for a high lead bronze perhaps.

But maybe we are being over-fussy here - the Z axis movement is very small generally, and much more infrequent WRT X and Y. Wear in Z is rather slow, if things are set up correctly and lubricated - As Graham indicated, no wear or required adjustment for 26 years, mine even longer. Any of the harder Al grades would probably be fine, as would probably be any bronze or brass even. The wear action is so slow...And as Graham also indicated, backlash should easily be taken up by the weight of the head anyway - if not, then the gib strip screws and slide block pinch bolts are probably way to tight.

29/06/2022 08:32:08

Was the upper half of the nut, the part above the compression slits, still attached to the lower half, ie, was it only that the threads are stripped from the upper half, or had the upper half parted from the lower half?

Are there signs of rubbing tween leadscrew and the crimp nut interior ( item 4 below) at all? If not it should be impossible for item 4 to unscrew, unless the z nut somehow rotates- that could occur if item 22 is not well tightened..

Do you recall what the hole in the side of the nut, where item 22 impinges, looks like at the moment? Has it elongated vertically? If so, then all the head weight is on item 4, compressing the z nut slits all the time and wearing the upper thread half prematurely. However, that that should even more prevent item 4 from unscrewing as it is under tension all the time. Or has the hole elongated horizontally? If so, the nut would turn a little each time Z is wound, and that would cause loosening of item 4



28/06/2022 20:23:16

Still not sure I understand - I know the nut well, so understand how it works, but fail to understand how if the lower half's threads are not stripped that the head would still not move. Was the leadscrew turning while the head remained stationary? If so then the lock-screw in the side of the slide block into the Z nut was not preventing the z-nut from turning. Or would the leadscrew not turn, ie, jammed?

If the upper half threads are stripped while the lower half are good, then the compression nut on top of the slide block was probably way overtightened - a number of times...

The design works and works well if not abused, so it should work for you as well!

I frequent various EMCO ( lathe and Mill) groups (, etc) and no-one has complained of the Z nut design being unfit for task..

28/06/2022 18:32:11

How 'partially' stripped? If the head would not move while the leadscrew turns, then the nut is stripped properly..How did you 'fix' this by boring out stripped threads?

I have 3 FB2's - One is cnc'd with ballscrews, but the other two have the original Z nuts in, one still OK after 32 years, the other after 21 years.

I do however have a spare set of XYZ nuts, obtained from EMCO 2 years ago - they still have stock..

The Z nut is a simple one to make though - if you can find a piece of 7075 aluminium bar stock that will work just fine.

The thread will need a inner pointing tool ground , but that is not to difficult I would think.The thread is quite short in that nut so the tool need not be very long. When I obtained the second FB2 (pre-owned) , it was imperial and I purchased metric leadscrews and nuts and dials (2001) and swapped out so I have a set of new imperial screws and nuts in the cupboard...I did investigate shipping costs to the UK for another fellow interested in some other FB2 parts, and from Namibia it was horrendous - near 170 pounds to the greater London area!

Thread: Advice sought on buying a nature watch camera for my garden
22/06/2022 16:13:15
Posted by Greensands on 22/06/2022 14:11:22:

Hi - Something has been attacking the plant life in my garden rooting up newly planted bulbs and the like and I would like to find out who the guilty party might be. Can anyone suggest a good/medium quality I/R nature camera which might be suitable for the job? Don't wish to spend silly money, something around £50 to £60 perhaps. All suggestions most welcomed

I use HIKVISION cameras a fair bit - camping lodge water-hole viewing, home perimeter watch, etc. The DS-2CD2012WD ( 4mm lens) is a small camera that works very well at night, self IR illumination up to around 30meters - 12V DC and a LAN cable to your PC with their software and you can view, record, etc. I am sure you have HIKVISION in the UK - around $60 on ebay. They also have WiFi cameras of similar ilk - need only supply +12v, if you have a WiFi router in your home for your internet, etc, then that is more convenient - there are around twice the price though...

There are wildlife cameras (, etc - ) from a number of 'outdoor' shops, but those cams are generally above £100 ( plus!)

If you have a decent Security product supplier nearby I would pay them a visit. ( /, etc)

10/06/2022 11:53:34
Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 08/06/2022 14:22:22:

This server could not prove that it is; its security certificate is from * This may be caused by a misconfiguration or an attacker intercepting your connection.


All fixed and all working fine from my end - only difference is I see now I remain logged in from day to day - used to be auto-logged out a short while after having closed the site on my browser.

I wish the forum well with the Mortons move!

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 10/06/2022 11:54:08

08/06/2022 14:22:22

And from 14H00 today the MEW site comes back with a 'not-secure' certificate and is blacklisted by Chrome and Norton antivirus...can only access the site in 'unsafe' mode, ie, virus check is disabled on this site now - also had to re-enter my logon unsafe mode...


Reports as :

This server could not prove that it is; its security certificate is from * This may be caused by a misconfiguration or an attacker intercepting your connection.

obviously not an attacker, but certainly misconfigured.


Also makes it difficult to post anything, as Norton rejects the effort until I tell it to ignore the danger..

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 08/06/2022 14:23:24

Thread: Buried-cable detector
05/06/2022 15:08:11
Posted by ega on 05/06/2022 09:54:50:

Buying a replacement 9V brick (or block) battery for this kind of device seems to be something of a minefield, particularly if you are considering a rechargeable one.

Why is that? Are they scarce because of environmental issues in your country? There appear to be many sources for 9v NiMH rechargeable blocks..

05/06/2022 08:33:06


That tool does everything mine does, and a lot more! If I were still mucking around building my house I would ditch mine and get one of those. I think the Drywall reference is for our American friend's peace of mind - I have found on numerous older reviews the American have regularly asked if it works with drywall - since that is the primary construction method there I guess.

Here are some reviews that show it's ability against brick and concrete as well. ( Forgive the patronising video - not my doing..)



The dielectric constant of the materials do play a role in the detection capability, and drywall tends to be air or foam etc in the cavity and the detection signal is less masked compared to when in concrete/brickwork, so the unit is perceived to be more sensitive - meaning that a 'conventional' detector would probably battle to localise the detection area due to the heightened sensitivity. The self calibration of the unit held against the drywall would correct for that I guess.. A the risk of placing myself in the line of fire, I would recommend that unit - if you can live with the size in your application.

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