Here is a list of all the postings Joseph Noci 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Impressive Workshop in Germany|
Well, I dunno. He obviously has plenty of time to polish his machines and tidy his shop.
I'd like to see what he actually makes, though...
Is he a tool salesman?
Mmmm . Sour Grapes...
|Thread: Machinery Directive and CE marking|
At least I am FAR enough away to be able stand on the side and say..
The arguments here seem so much like those of BREXIT....posturing and posing instead of real useful discourse that can aid the poor chap in his workshop being seemingly threatened by the ominosity of this thread...Why aren't you all making swarf instead..
|Thread: What would one use this adaptor for?|
....., use Paypal & if the item is no good bang a dispute in for a refund.
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 04/04/2019 14:37:08
Well, I am not sure I would generalise as broadly as that...
I previously purchased an MT2 arbor as in my first photo, also a 100mm diameter MT2 revolving center ( for pipework) and quite a few other lathe carbide insert holders and have not really been disappointed.
Regarding the MT2 fit - here is a photo of my Shaublin ER16 MT2 chuck, the MT2 shell mill adaptor with and the threaded adapter incorrectly supplied - I use permanent marker and made thick stripes down the taper and then wedged/rotated it in the EMCO FB2 MT2 spindel. All the fits are good...particularly the incorrectly supplied arbor!
There are exceptions...I also purchased a SANOU 125mm 3 jaw chuck. Very nicely made, clean, chuck key turns smoothly, but its useless..
The jaws have a lot of play into and away from the chuck face ( ie, not the play when sliding the jaw across the scroll spiral, there is also play there and not too little either!)
The first photo shows the dial up against the outer tip of the jaw, with the jaw firmly pulled against the scroll, away from the centre of the chuck, but with the jaw pressed down against the chuck face.
Dial set to zero, and the the jaw , at the dial tip, is lifted up, away from the chuck face..while kept back against the scroll, away from the chuck centre.
So any workpiece that does not extend fully through the jaws will make the jaws bell-mouth, with tapered contact on the workpiece. I intend to get my money back..and they do respond - I have good email relations with them on such issues and they respond everytime within 12 to 18 hours. Refunds occur within 48 hours..
They do have quite good stuff in general, and do replace or refund if the item does not do as advertised...I would not knock the Chinese suppliers just for the sake of it...
ER16 chuck was first typed as ER15...
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 04/04/2019 13:29:05
I ordered an MT2 arbor with a 22mm Spigot for a face mill cutter:
and received this instead : ( good old banggood..)
The big end is threaded 1-1/2 18UNF - what would this tool/adapter be used for??
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Spent today ( and the last 14 days..) repairing my Solar heating system...
Input heat exchanger
Output heat exchanger
I have evacuated glass tube water heaters on the house roof, heating via a copper pipe heat exchanger the water in a 45000 litre underground storage tank. That thermal store in turn heats the water that is pumped through underfloor piping in the house flooring. This takes place by means of yet another heat exchanger in the floor heating loop. The water in the tank is isolated from both the solar heaters and the floor heating system.
The heat exchangers are four spirals of soft drawn copper tubing, 20mm OD , 0.9mm wall, wound in a spiral and connected in parallel. Both exchangers were riddled with tiny pinholes and so leaked. This after 11 years. The water in the tank reaches temperatures of 45 to 50 deg C max. The water PH has been between 6.9 and 7.3. Both copper coils are electrically isolated from the rest of the piping and systems - a heavy section of PEX oxygen barriered pipe connects each exchanger to the respective hot in and cold outlets, so no electrolytic action. The tank is a 8mm wall thickness Roto-Molded Polyprop unit, wrapped with wooden slats ( like a wine barrel) to keep it in shape when full of hot water. It is fine, but the copper piping .. The internals of the copper pipe is in good nick - the walls are evenly coated with a very fine brown/red cuprous oxide and no sign of corrosion or green anywhere within.
So, drain the tank, hauls out the old piping, get new pipes from SA, wind the spirals, fit connections, do the pressure tests, wash out all flux, and down the hole it all goes tomorrow!
Next Time I will get rid of half the problem and move to PV panels heating the thermal store with heating elements!
Heavy work..Each exchanger weighs around 45kg..
|Thread: Any Recent Progress in Induction Heating ?|
"It has never been regarded as useful for soldering and brazing" -
On the contrary, I would say..It is used extensively in industry, from soft soldering to silver soldering and brazing on all manner of items. Specially formed induction coils hug the workpiece which is preloaded with flux and the filler material, and heated/soldered/brazed in one go. A lot to be seem on the internet on that process.
The main issue is what material the workpiece consists of. Materials such as copper, aluminium, steel, stainless steel, HSS, etc, can all be done this was - Tungsten carbide inserts are brazed onto toll holders this was. However, the induction heater operating frequency and power varies hugely for the different materials, with plain magnetic steels being the easiest to heat, copper and aluminium the most difficult ( LOTS of power needed) and stainless somewhere in-between...
|Thread: Drilling Ball bearing balls|
Know naught re drilling the balls, but wrt magnetic 'support' - that ain't easy..esp with plain permanent magnets and no feedback control. The ball needs to be perfectly in the centre of the magnetic field. IF you ever get it into that spot, a slight breeze will push it off and the closest magnet will pull it in. Any MINUTE movement of the sculpture/ball will do the same, even the vibration of passing feet on a concrete floor!
Spinning the ball helps a little...
There are electronic ways of doing it with two permmagnets and a solenoid, with optical position feedback, etc, but hard to hide in your creation..Also, if the ball is not a magnet, the magnetic force needs to pull from the top to oppose gravity, so even harder to hide the magnets/solenoid.
google magnetic levitation - lots of stuff.
|Thread: Temperature probe|
If you just want to get the reading job done, and not hack about, there are a number of inexpensive options -
an example - 4 channel handheld readout device that does all you wish..click the link...
If you want to hack - first a simple device , Type K input device - AD8495 - with analogue out to, eg, a multimeter ( or anything, Microbit included, that has A to D inputs to read a voltage) - nicely mounted on a breakout board so easy to use..
Or if you want to hack even more...Some serial IO devices (SPI).
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 25/03/2019 06:21:14
|Thread: Why do we do it?|
Ian P : I too am guilty of adding comments to threads which probably add to the topic drift and which are of no interest to the original member, but I am far from alone!
Hopper: Often the discussion moves on to other related, and not so related, topics from the original question. Those posting and replying to such posts are obviously interested so why should they not continue the discussion?
If the Post originator has had his question answered to some sort of usefulness, or considers advise given to have settled his mind, then by all means drift away...But , if not, it is rather selfish to just take the topic off in an irrelevant direction, just because it 'stimulates' the rest of the folk, while ignoring the poor chap who asked the question in the first place
SOD: Depends on what you think the forum is for. If it's meant to a Reference Work where a clear question gets a clear answer, then it's badly adrift. To achieve reference quality would require much more discipline and that's not what I want. I have books for that.
I would not think advice as to the use of a motor on a drill press to be reference work - the fellow was merely asking...
I don't think the forum should be at all formal. More like what happens when a group of friends meet in a bar to discuss items of common interest. Personality is allowed. One might be Deadly Serious, another a Clown. Some will have the wrong end of the stick, others incomprehensibly expert. Quite often the bloke who knows the right answer is too shy to speak up until he's had a few. A fair amount of rubbish will be talked, there might be hissy fits, offensive remarks and misunderstandings but on the whole there's much value in the exchange. In my mind forum threads don't have to have ends, rather they can develop as conversations.
And while the rest of the group gets sloshed, the chap who entered with a request for knowledge leaves the pub...
Brian Wood: Hopper makes a pertinent point that, on occasion, other interesting material [unrelated to the topic] gets added, but because of that it very soon becomes invisible and cannot be traced with ease.
Howard Lewis: Some posts do drift, well off, topic, (Guilty as charged, too! ) But, on or off topic, the info that comes to light is almost always interesting. Only problem is that I can rarely remember which topic it was that contained the info now needed!
Robin Graham: Having no background in mechanical engineering I think I would have given up metal mangling a long time ago if it wasn't for this forum. I've sometimes asked questions which have been answered in the first few replies, but have then meandered on for several pages. I actually like it when then happens because my question has sparked a discussion, so it's not only me who's interested. I usually glean some unlooked for knowledge as well.
If the question has been answered, then you no longer have the podium, so anything goes..I guess..But I don't consider is remotely good manners to kick the chap off the podium, with his query still hanging, while you pursue your own agenda - if you want to do that, start your own driftable topic..
When I ask a question on a Linux forum which I use, I get instructions from a guru to execute a command and post the output. I do that and I'm instructed to execute another command. Whoo-hoo, problem solved, then I have to tick a box which effectively closes the topic - but I didn't learn anything.
You did not learn because you chose not to - you asked a question how to fix the problem and got the good answer. If you wanted to know 'why' then you could ask more, or better still, follow SOD's advice and get some reference material...There is no excuse for not using your brain..
If someone asks how to thread on the lathe, many will chip in with the ideal way, other ways, right and wrong ways, from the front, from the back, etc, etc - The question will have been answered, but the true newbie will be NONE THE WISER till he tries, makes mistakes and LEARNS. And no doubt many will propose that he review some reference material, such as the various lathe screwcutting books and booklets, etc. That's how you learn..
I for one do not appreciate excessive topic drift while my query remains in the cold..
My 1 Namibian Dollar's worth..
Now all have your go at me...
|Thread: What is a good quality lathe paint|
Interesting that you folk recommend enamel paint - in our hemisphere, enamel paint is a generic name for the type of paint used in household applications - gloss and semi-gloss for doors, door frames, exterior facia boards, etc. This tends to be a turpentine solvent based paint and does certainly not stand up to machine lubrication oils and water soluble coolant, etc. Strictly utilitarian , white goods, and never on machines! So, your enamel must be something else..
My machines, generally 'green' - use a 2 part acid etch primer, and a two part epoxy base paint. Tough as nails, withstands all oils, turpentines, thinners, etc, and very scratch resistant.
|Thread: Why do both power hacksaws and bandsaws exist?|
But it's much more fun to build and use one of these:....
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
T'was the NUCLEO-446 - an ARM Cortex based STM 32 bit processor. The Nucleo board is an ARDUINO look-alike and costs around $8.00 US. Part of the board is a USB based Programmer to load the code - this part can be snapped of to leave just the main board. Base clock is 8MHz with an internal PLL that can multiply clock by up to 20X
I use this in all my machine applications; the Shaper NC update, both lathes ELS feed controllers, even in my Wife's Cheese curing chamber for temp and humidity control!
Once must be careful when starting a post with ' I Finally completed my XYZ thingy...'.!
Some post back I showed my 'finally' completed stepperised rotary table/Hobber and the electronic controller I made for it.
The controller did angle steps, division steps , continuous rotation and a hobbing mode. And that was done...
But, I had left out some very obvious requirements..The is no manual mode to rotate the table manually, as you would a none electronic table, and no way to jog the table to a set position to begin stepping from of hobbing from.
So..Here is the finally finished all new version...With a manual mode and the controls a little better consolidated.
Had to make a new housing for it - the last ( nice) plastic box was all used up and I could not find more..
Ready to bend..
And the new front panel engraved and routed.
Paul White ( also a fellow forummer) iis going to built one as well, but with some added features - he has two rotary tables , one small, one large, with different gear ratios, and a gear hobber with yet a different gear ratio and autofeed on the hob.
Also a few more controls..
So Paul's panel functions are so:
|Thread: 'upscale' machines|
Where did Neil ask that? Must admit I have not been following all the posts as they flow...
Well, I have 3 ( yes..) EMCO FB2 benc mills - One with DRO, one manual but fitted with a Jones&Shipman Beefy milling head, and the third fully CNC. I also have an EMCO V10 , completely renovated, bed re-scraped, new Head bearings, new leadscrews and fitted with my own design electronic leadscrew for imperial/metric threading and auto-feeds. Also has DRO, with a shop made rotary DRO encoder on the cross slide.
And I have a new EMCO 14D - well, going on 2 years old, but it has run 17 hours to date...(the V10P is the one that is always 'on'..) The 14D is also fitted with factory DRO and my Electronic leadscrew.
I have never had any issues with any of these machines - they are very well made, all slide surfaces fit very well, are scraped, and accurate. No jerkiness, no slop, parallel stuff is, and all a pleasure to use.
The V10P I have owned for 22 years, and refurbished maybe 2 years ago. The FB2's, likewise owned around 18 to 22 years.
The prices are well above the machines generally discussed, but the stuff is well built, well fitted and well thought out.
The FB2 does have a round column, which is perhaps its only detraction, but the FB2 fitted with the J&S head has a 2KW motor and I take 2mmDOC with a 65mm 6 insert cutter across the face of 'mild steel' no problem..The column seems to hold up.
The 14D arrived from Austria, on a 7 week boat trip to Namibia, then a truck from the harbour to my house, and was removed from the pallet, put in place and the EMCO rep did the accuracy checks with his fancy box of gauges and levels and micrometers and declared it in accordance with the factory release tests! He did not have to touch a bolt. The 14D is a VERY nice lathe.
Forgive me boring those who have sen it all before..to many times..
The V10P before..
The lower panels are the added ELS on the 14D
FB@ with DRO
FB2 with J&S head
|Thread: 3 Jaw self centering ER chuck|
I am not sure I understand what you mean by 'sealed'
Your photo below shows normal slit collets - where is the sealed slots? My query was re swarf entering the three jaw to collet contact area,ie the collet taper surface. The 3 jaws have space between them where swarf could enter and when the 3jaw retracts to decompress the collet, swarf can enter the gap, enter the collet slit, or the collet to soft-jaw contact area, upsetting TIR surely..?
Would there not be a chance of swarf, minute or otherwise, penetrating the collet/jaw contact area when the jaws are released to remove the work piece? After all, the swarf flies everywhere inside the cabinet and in the video, the tiny brass shavings might enter the chuck area. Unlike a normal collet holder that is essentially sealed except for the slots at the workface.
I still like the idea though. I also especially like the cnc machine..
|Thread: ER25 v 5C Collets|
I understood that ER collets were originally designed for hold tooling, whereas 5C collets were intended for work holding. Of course there's nothing to stop you holding what you like in any variety of collet.
I would agree. There are not many machine with a native 5C spindle it appears. There are also very few 5C collet chucks to fit 'common' spindles - The geometry just does not fit. There are ISO40, etc, chucks, but they have the rear body to take the collet, but the 5C fastening mechanism remains a dilemma in such chucks. On the other hand there are hundreds on ER collet chucks in all spindle forms, MT, R8, ISO, straight shank, etc, etc. Which generally supports the idea of tool holding rather than work holding.
There has been comment on the comparative accuracies of ER/5C - I think it is not correct to generalise on this - if the effort is made to find ER collets of better than 'normal' runout, the same effort will find comparable performance in 5C collets.
When I purchased my EMCO lathe among the options I chose was a Camlock 5C chuck - this was supplied by EMCO and endorsed by them for accuracy, etc, but is actually a BISON 5C 'set-true' style chuck. Supplied with the chuck is a set of 53 collets - 1mm to 27mm in 0.5mm steps, and a set of imperial colletc from 1/16 to 1inch in 1/32inch steps.
The collets are very good - when the chuck is set up to run with zero TIR, a 25mm collet showed 0.0018mm TIR, a 15mm collet - 0.0017mm , a 10mm - 0.0015 and a 6mm collet - 0.0013mm - That is rather good I would say!
However, those measurments are with tool steel test bars, 'perfectly round and straight, and within 0.0001mm ground diametric tolerance.
I did the same measurements with a 10mm collet and a 3/8" (9.525mm) test bar of the same accuracy as the metric bars. The 3/8" bar would not comfortable fit the 9.5mm collet and the 10mm collet required 'closing down'
The TIR increased to between 0.008mm and 0.01mm and was not consistent each fastening. Fitting a 3/8" imperial collet and the runout was a consistent 0.0015mm to 0.0016mm.
I think the moral off the story is that a good 5C collet is very good when the held item is close to the collet native diameter. I think ER collets will battle to achieve similar accuracies under those conditions, but will achieve better accuracies with wider variance of held diameter..
I realise that TIR in the 0.001/0.004 mm are small, but while we are chasing numbers..
Also, I am a bit confused by Jo's statement:
I have never had any issues with using my 5C's they are excellent. The mounting of my 5C collet chuck has zero run out and I have Collets up to 1 1/4" (and28mm) in all the sizes that my drawings use. Whilst I have a ER32 holder I see no point in buying any collets to go with it as it is restricted to a much smaller maximum diameter than the 5C's.
I have measured up my 27mm ID 5C and I think at a huge push I could open it up to maybe 29mm. Can one actually get a 1-1/4" 5C collet?? Thats 31.75mm..
Anyway, I think the first view is correct - ER collets are more versatile and a lot easier to change size in the chuck!.
The one thing I did find - I made a 4 facet drill sharpening jig, at first using ER16 collets ( of good quality) but found very poor repeatability when setting the smaller ( sub 5mm) drill bits in the collet. The spiral cutting edge of the drill always seemed to hook in a collet slit and I was forever rotating the drill bit a fraction to 'miss' a slit, etc. I then tried ER20 collets and gave up - made a new jig using 5C collets and it works fine now..I suspect the length of the ER collet is a problem in this application.
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 17/02/2019 15:54:23
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 17/02/2019 15:56:36
|Thread: Blacking engraved lines|
Douglas, I have made many engraved panels for equipment, my lathes, shaper, rotary table controller, etc, and lots of radio ham equipment - I use single sided ( copper on one side only)FR4 Printed Circuit Board ( fibreglass type), with the copper side pre-painted and then engraved, as this gives a nice sharp edge to the lines. I then fill with plain black boot/shoe polish! I use an old credit card as a squeegee and squeeze the wax into the lines. Wipe the panel with a clean lint free cloth and let dry for an hour or so and then a brisk rub to clean up and the job is done!
The problem with resin fillers, or any paint with a solvent based filler is that the filler tends to adhere to the painted surface so you have to clean the excess right away and that is not so easy - if the filled line/text is still wet, wiping over the line tends to drag more of the filler over the panel surface, and as that starts to dry or cure, it becomes more difficult to clean. Also, the solvent base of non wax style fillers tends to attack and dissolve the painted panel surface as well, leaving fewer choices of paint to use on the panel, ie, epoxy based paints are about the only types impervious to turpentine or thinners based fillers.
I have panels around 11 years old made in this way, and they show no deterioration at all - some are panels on radio equipment in my 4X4, panels which have endured many, many months of hot African sun!
The panels on my lathe ( an Electronic leadscrew system), shaper, etc, are similarly made and after maybe 2 years of use, with the usual oily and grubby fingers , there is no sign of filler departing the panel, etc.
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 10/02/2019 19:17:14
|Thread: WHERE ARE THE SHAPER USERS ?|
If the terminal is properly crimped, you should never solder it - The crimp is gas tight on its own, and soldering results in the solder creeping up the wire away from the crimp. This stiffens the wire at the crimp connection. When fitting the lug to the intended spot, dressing the cables then often results in difficulty in bending the wire, or excessive force results in fractures in the individual copper wires in the cable. Certainly a total no-no in the Mil-Spec environment, but then our shops are a lot more lax I guess..
Anyway, here are some photos of good and better crimps..The second is typical of the Mil environment. The plastic shroud on the lug is itself crimped over the wire insulation, affording some strain-relief to the crimped copper section. The first crimper, typical of a 'good' quality commercial crimper does not crimp the rear shroud section, but the joint is sound, and if the wire fitting is sound, the crimp is as good as the second one.
Commercial crimper on the left ( not a pressed steel type, or at least the jaws are not)
The 'Mil' crimper...It has built-in mechanisms to ensure the wire penetrates the lug the correct amount, and that the lug is positioned properly in the crimper, ensuring the crimp jaws impact the lug at the correct spot.
The other side of the crimper - with a sample crimp, showing the two dots on the plastic shroud - these two dots are for inspection and show that the lug was in the correct position, and the pressure correct. If a lug of to small a size were used for the selected crimper, the two dots would not form. Also nicely seen , the wire end of the shround on the lug shows the over-crimp.
Not a lot to do with Shapers, but..
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.