Here is a list of all the postings Mark Gould 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford gearbox question|
I mean the Tumbler Reverse Lever (or Carriage Reverse Lever). Before we had the gearbox fitted, I only used this lever to change power feed direction to headstock to tailstock and for using power crossfeed to feed INTO the work (away from the user).
But now we have the gearbox fitted and with this Tumble Reverse Lever in the lowest hole, we seem only able to get the leadscrew turning if the gearbox selector is in B. If we try either A or C the leadscrew stops turning.
I must sound like a complete fool, apologies.
I have a novice question and I feel almost reluctant to ask it but here goes.
Our lathe (Super 7) has been fitted with an original Myford late model gearbox (leadscrew passes through the ‘box). We have just installed and levelled it and started playing with the gearbox. We found that the powerfeed only works with the top selector in B. In order to use either A or C I need to move the tumbler selector.
Is this normal?
Apologies again but we are beginners and are still summoning up the courage to start on our Stuart No. 1 sometime this month.
Thanks for any info,
Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 05/05/2018 17:12:56
|Thread: Emco FB-2 Oil Change|
Ok thanks Nick, we run in at normal speeds etc
Thanks for your answers gents. I went for Castrol ISO VG 46 which is what the manual said. Any thoughts on whether or not I should add MolySlip to this?
Bit of a novice question here but we plan to do our first oil change on the FB-2 milling machine. I have sourced the correct oil and it seems easy enough to do but should I be using some sort of flushing agent to help evacuate the old oil? Or is warming it up and simply letting it run out enough?
The machine has no technical problems to speak of so I am not expecting trouble or metal particles etc in the milling head I was just wondering about what the “best practice” might be.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
|Thread: Midlands model engineering show|
I also went, with my Dad. Thouroughly enjoyed it and bought some nice set of Dormer drills from Greenwood. Also rummaged a lot and scored some other goodies
The models on display were outstanding.
|Thread: Stuart Engine for beginners?|
Thanks for the tips gents. We will attempt to run the engine on compressed air before we even think about steam. There is a lot to think about. Starting at the bottom seems like good advice and also seems to be the way to go from the research we have already done.
P.S. Regarding the balancing; at the moment we will concern ourselves with making it as well as we can. Ironing out vibrations will be done later but thanks for the heads up Mick.
Ok thanks Nick. We proceed with enthusiasm
We went for a No. 1 engine. Mainly because of the size. I perhaps foolishly thought that a big engine would be a little less fiddly and more forgiving when it comes to tolerances. We will do our best and i will map out our progress here, even if it gets ugly. This will be a warts and all build thread
Our kit came in. All parts look ok, however there are 2 very large protrusions from the casting process inside the bore of the cylinder. The 2 cans of paint are tiny! My wife has bigger nail varnish tins than these two.
What I also found disappointing is the "book" they sold us for £9,50 which is nothing more than few photo copies stapled together.
Oh well, upwards and onwards. We expect to start the build this month sometime. First we have a DRO to fit to the FB-2 and some work space to arrange.
I will be back with photo's of mistakes, blemishes and other general faux pas for you all to giggle at
Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 21/08/2017 14:27:49
Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 21/08/2017 14:28:09
Thanks for the encouragement Jason, we are eager to get stuck in. With the wealth of knowledge behind us on this website, we'll be going in with full (ish) confidence.
Thanks for posting back so quickly. Your models all look outstanding and we will be reading your build log Nick, thanks for that.
I can see that a small surface plate and height scribe are a nice addtition
Keep you posted,
Mark and Jon
My Dad and I are planing to visit the Midlands Engineering exhibition in October and plan to buy a Stuart engine to make. Now we are both beginners but are willing and eager. We have a decent selection of tools which include a Super 7 and an Emco FB-2 milling machine.
We had set our eyes on a No.1 engine as it seemed a nice size and not so fiddly but is this perhaps too big for our machinery?
Again, we will be taking to slowly and we'll be here regularly flying the "help" flag so we feel confident but this might be an indication that we haven't the slightest clue what we're about to undertake.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
Mark and Jon Gould in the Netherlands
|Thread: Emco FB-2 Manual|
I have just emailed the manual to Greg and to Jim. Please PM me your email address if you need one.
I have this manual as a pdf file. Let me know if I can help.
|Thread: Knurling question|
I had no idea those flint wheels were that hard. Might give it a try, thanks Ian.
Thanks everybody and especially Clive, that's the answer I was looking for. I was seeing the knurler as a gear which had to mesh with any number of other gears, regardless of size/amount of teeth etc. I am starting to understand why there is a certain leeway.
Could someone take the time to explain how a knurling tool works? I am referring to the type which straddle the work and whereby you turn a hand wheel to force the two knurling wheels into the work. I think they are called "clamp type"?
My question is this: how can a knurling tool knurl different diameter materials? What happens after the knurling wheels has completed a complete circumference and it's ready to start its second turn and the lines don't match up?
A silly question from a beginner, so go easy on me please guys,
Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 22/05/2017 10:16:01
|Thread: Hello from BodgerBen|
Hi Ben, and welcome from another new boy!
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