Here is a list of all the postings Mark Gould 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stuart No. 1 Build Progress|
Got a bit more done. The con rod bearing and the slide valve. The con rod bearing is actually 2 parts super glued together for the machining. They turned out nice although this gun metal is very “bitey” to drill into!
|Thread: Lathe Carriage Stop|
Nice looking stop Justin, reminds me of another project I keep putting off!
|Thread: Stuart No. 1 Build Progress|
Almost completed the next component. This also took quite a lot of time as we kept having to take it out, measure, put it back, find zero etc. It still needs a general deburring but the fit in the standard is excellent.
|Thread: from a 3.5 inch Gezina to 5 inch tramway Plettenberg locomotive|
Looks great Werner, I look forward to seeing more!
|Thread: Stuart No. 1 Build Progress|
Progress is slow. The workshop is at my folks place which is 50km from me and with work in the way our days spent machining have been few and far between. I hope to step it up a bit soon.
Today we finished machining a simple but time consuming bit. Not even sure what it's called but it still needs a bit of light filing and sanding but the basic shape is there. It takes a lot of time if you're a newbie and this took quite a while! It tapers by 2mm from end to end, not clear on the pics.
Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 20/03/2019 17:35:59
|Thread: Older/cheaper lathes|
I live in the Netherlands and Myfords often go for €1000 here. Funny, we are only seperated but a timy bit of water.
If you are interested look on www.marktplaats.nl
|Thread: Myford cross slide backlash|
Amazed at the responses, all welcome and informing. Many thanks for that and it will take a while before everything is clear to me. I am unschooled in metal works and am learning on the fly. This forum and ahum, youtube.
I understand that it won't change the backlash, thanks Martin and JohnF. My understanding on how it works was flawed but it is slowly becoming clearer now.
I use inserts tooling (all 10mm due to tool centre height). Some Chinese cheapy inserts, others are known brand (Sandvik, Mitsubishi) DCMT and CCMT inserts.
The bar was 300mm to start with, the finished shaft is about 230mm.
I was turning at 640rpm.
@ega, I found the illustration when Googling "Myford Super 7 cross slide friction" and came across it on another board. I am not sure who's illustration it is, sorry. I will look into that book and dito washer!
Thanks again gents,
I turned a shaft down for a machine that needed one. The long main section (20mm dia) had some irregularities in the finish, almost as if the set up wasn't rigid enough.
I started looking at the cross slide in more detail and stuck a DTI (referenced from the lathe bed) and discovered about 0.06mm in and out movement on the cross slide. By that I mean movement to and from the operator so perpendicular to the bed.
We started paying with the adjusting collar on the cross slide spindle (see pic).
Now for the newbie questions:
1. Is this collar to remove backlash and make the in and out positioning of the cross slide more consistent?
2. Am I right in concluding that this collar, if not correctly fastened will result in the cutting tool being pushed back the same distance as the backlash in the screw?
3. If I tighten this collar and remove almost all of the above mentioned 0.06mm I cannot turn the crossfeed handle at all. Is the trick making a compromise between ease of operation and trying to eliminate backlash?
Sorry for the questions, this new hobby and taken me hook, line and sinker
|Thread: Another newbie question!|
Thanks for the very helpful replies gents. Using the steady seems a good idea. I think I was perhaps trying to cut the corner a little bit and gain some time. Thanks again for taking the time to help,
Thanks for the replies. The stock was 300mm, so sticking out a fair bit from the 100mm 3 jaw chuck. I will use a DTI to ensure the stock is as centered as I can get it and go from there. An increase in speed is a good idea Al, I will try that too.
What is the best way to centre drill a rod that doesn't pass through the head stock? Our S7 (not a big bore S7) can't pass a 1 inch bar and we have to centre drill it for support. Should I be breaking out the fixed steady and doing it that way or are there simpler (read: faster) methods of doing this?
And secondly, is 640 rpm a good speed for centre drilling or should that be bumped up a notch? The reason i ask is that we struggled to centre drill at this speed and I was concerned that perhaps the drill itself wasn't any good.
Apologies for the simple questions and thanks,
|Thread: New collets. Bankrupt now.|
The second drawing is the clue here as Phil P said in the second posting. Thanks, that's a handy diagram to have.
I got them from Dixi Polytool. Their website is **LINK**
I am in the Netherlands but they probably have a UK shop too.
You see this is why I hang around here
Excellent info and suggestions, many thanks. I will go the cheapest route first and see how I get along. Dad has a torque wrench so this little attachment will be a good place to start.
Martin, I have seen different torque values for ball bearing nuts, yes. My nuts are plain
Phil, sounds logical. Thanks, that may be the way to do it then.
Jason, I had seen those but was suprised at the price.
John, I am interested in your socket. Do you have a pic? Is it a normal half inch socket modified to fit an ER style nut?
After trying the Chinese cheap nasty collets I have ordered a set of Rego-Fix ER25 collets. Beans on toast for a month at least. In order to make them last for as long as possible I would like to use the c correct torque. I didn’t even know there was a torque spec bit there you go.
I was looking at this spanner thingy. Will it work? Seems to my amateur newbie mind to measure torque aroind the wrond axis. I need it measured around the green axis but coupled with a conventional torque wrench it would measure around the red axis wouldn’t it?
Will this work?
|Thread: Best material for a crankshaft?|
That is a 13mm piece of what I thought was silver steel but turned out to be quite soft. I was under the impression that a crankshaft should be made of a hardened and ground material but my newbie status is on full display here, I simply don't know enough about the different metals yet or of their properties to make an educated decision.
I see your point on boring the holes only after getting the material. Almost as if I am going at this bass-ackwards.
Thanks again for the advice Jason and Iain, I will take a look on eBay too.
As the title says, we have reamed the main bearing of our steam engine and we are wondering what material to use for the crankshaft. As we have reamed it 13mm I am assuming we need a precision ground piece for the best fit? And where does one buy a piece?
What would be the best material to use? Tool steel? Silver steel?
|Thread: Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder|
Progress looks good so far Nick, keep 'em coming
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