Here is a list of all the postings Mark Gould 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chilled cast Iron - a small Rant|
I am a novice but was told that the best way around this is to take a heavy cut. Otherwise the tool skates on the chilled outside.
|Thread: Newbie trying to thread|
Correct, I wasn't cutting a left hand thread on the way back for the reason you state. I was messing up the right hand thread on the reverse pass.
Micky, many thanks, yes that must be it indeed as Brian and David also said.
Upwards and onwards!
David and Brian, many thanks, I will persevere and report back. I’ll try and cut an M20 in aluminium just so I can a little better at what is happening.
After reading Brian Woods book on the 33t and 34T threading possibilities for the Myford S7 I made the drop arm required to lower the banjo slightly and set up to cut a thread. Work piece was supported by a half dead center.
I had a go at an M10 x 1.5 and the results were terrible, I couldn't even call it a thread. More like a train wreck. This is what I did. Please let me know if my thinking is on the right track here.
Half nuts left engaged the whole time. I used the "jog" function I have and took a first pass which conformed 1.5mm pitch. I then reversed the machine and dragged the tool over the first thread. This buggered everything up. Was this because of backlash in the gear train? Should I have retracted the tool first, then reversed everything, moved the tool back in and only then taken another pass?
Am I right in assuming that you can't just reverse a gear train set up and expect the tool to pass over the exact same scratches you just made?
Sorry for the silly question, all help is much appreciated,
|Thread: Single point threading|
Good point Martin, I actually have one of those and would have never even considered it.
|Thread: Myford 254 Hand Turning Rest|
Looks like a nice piece of kit you've made Richard. Which tools do you play using when hand turning?
|Thread: Stuart 10V Build Log - Complete Beginner...|
Your progress looks excellent! I did started my first Stuarts 2 years ago and have only just completed it. Go slow and it'll turn out beautifully. You seem to know what you're doing so no worries there
|Thread: Emco FB-2 Spindle lock|
I have completed the spindle lock for my FB-2 mini milling machine. Graham Meeks excellent design solves the problem of not having 3 hands.
@mods, if you are able, please rotate the last 2 pics. The forum software has turnend them.
Here are some photos:
|Thread: Morse tapers|
Thanks everyone for the info!
Hi and thanks for your answers,
Michael, by whacking I mean engaging the taper in the spindle. This is done by hand, not with any percusive violence! No tools involved Having said that, I am aware that MT tooling is supposed to be self holding but surely not a milling cutter in a collet chuck? Perhaps i should have added that my question relates to operation with a milling machine.
David, it is an Emco FB-2 mini mill. Ejecting a drill chuck is via a pushbar from the top. I hold the spindle with a crappy spanner and turn the top not up on the Top of the spindle to eject the chuck. (I am milling Graham Meeks spindle lock this week to solve this irritation)
I have been using MT tooling for a few years now and have recently run into doubts about whether or not I am using it correctly. Please let me know if this is correct:
When using MT tooling without a drawbar (like a drill chuck) I whack the tapered shank up into the spindle and drill my holes. No worries there.
When using MT tooling that requires a drawbar (like a collet chuck or slitting saw arbor) however I do it differently. I lightly hold the taper and insert the drawbar and use the drawbar to pull the taper in until tight. Should I be whacking this in too and using the drawbar only to keep it from falling out?
Thanks in advance,
|Thread: Arc's Website - Is it Just Me?|
I placed an order yesterday without problems too.
|Thread: Digital callipers shows time not distance|
Are you sure it’s hours, minutes and seconds? It could still be showing size, just in degrees, minutes and seconds. Have to be pretty big mind you
|Thread: Super 7 lubrication|
Do yourself a favour and click on the link https://haythornthwaite.com/184%20Myford%20Lubrication.pdf
it’s an excellent guide to lubrication of your Myford.
|Thread: T slot cutter of woodruff cutter?|
Again, these are photo’s Graham himself has put up here so I hope he doesn’t mind me re-posting them.
Here are 2 photos showing the device installed. I think it’s quite an elegant design and although a lot of material needs to be removed, what you are left with is an effective device for solving the annoying problem of not having 3 hands.
Ok thanks to you both,
Thanks all for the advice. I will look at an appropriate woodruff cutter and proceed carefully. My plan is, as you have advised to get everything out of the central slot with an end mill first and then do each “side slot” separately.
@Tony, how should I stress relieve it?
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