Member postings for Mark Gould 1

I am green with envy. That Bridgeport looks fantastic. I would love to own one, one day. Enjoy!

I do too Neil, I actually enjoy cleaning the machines!

Thats how I do it too. Leave them wet (ish). Helps me sleep better.

Ok thanks for the replies. I will give it another look.

Gents,

I recently bought a boring bar from Myford. It runs between centres and I was planning to bore the cylinder on our Stuart steam engine with it. It comes with some tiny cutters but I am not sure how it works. The bar itself has 2 holes drilled (both smooth, no threads in either) and these 2 holes are perpendicular to each other. The cutters fit very nicely in the holes with no discernable play but slide in and out without much effort.

My question is how are the cutters fixed in the bar?

Mark

Got another bit done. It's not perfect but I am happy with it. Somehow (I have no idea how) I messed up one of the inside dimensions so I might have to run this part with a thin bushing on either side. It took us hours and hours and getting the damn thing to run nicely in a 4 jaw chuck is a black art not mastered by me.

Got a bit more done. The con rod bearing and the slide valve. The con rod bearing is actually 2 parts super glued together for the machining. They turned out nice although this gun metal is very “bitey” to drill into!

Nice looking stop Justin, reminds me of another project I keep putting off!

Almost completed the next component. This also took quite a lot of time as we kept having to take it out, measure, put it back, find zero etc. It still needs a general deburring but the fit in the standard is excellent.

Looks great Werner, I look forward to seeing more!

Progress is slow. The workshop is at my folks place which is 50km from me and with work in the way our days spent machining have been few and far between. I hope to step it up a bit soon.

Today we finished machining a simple but time consuming bit. Not even sure what it's called but it still needs a bit of light filing and sanding but the basic shape is there. It takes a lot of time if you're a newbie and this took quite a while! It tapers by 2mm from end to end, not clear on the pics. 

Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 20/03/2019 17:35:59

I live in the Netherlands and Myfords often go for €1000 here. Funny, we are only seperated but a timy bit of water.

If you are interested look on www.marktplaats.nl

Amazed at the responses, all welcome and informing. Many thanks for that and it will take a while before everything is clear to me. I am unschooled in metal works and am learning on the fly. This forum and ahum, youtube.

I understand that it won't change the backlash, thanks Martin and JohnF. My understanding on how it works was flawed but it is slowly becoming clearer now.

I use inserts tooling (all 10mm due to tool centre height). Some Chinese cheapy inserts, others are known brand (Sandvik, Mitsubishi) DCMT and CCMT inserts.

The bar was 300mm to start with, the finished shaft is about 230mm.

I was turning at 640rpm.

@ega, I found the illustration when Googling "Myford Super 7 cross slide friction" and came across it on another board. I am not sure who's illustration it is, sorry. I will look into that book and dito washer!

Thanks again gents,

Mark

Gents,

I turned a shaft down for a machine that needed one. The long main section (20mm dia) had some irregularities in the finish, almost as if the set up wasn't rigid enough.

I started looking at the cross slide in more detail and stuck a DTI (referenced from the lathe bed) and discovered about 0.06mm in and out movement on the cross slide. By that I mean movement to and from the operator so perpendicular to the bed.

We started paying with the adjusting collar on the cross slide spindle (see pic).

Now for the newbie questions:

1. Is this collar to remove backlash and make the in and out positioning of the cross slide more consistent?

2. Am I right in concluding that this collar, if not correctly fastened will result in the cutting tool being pushed back the same distance as the backlash in the screw?

3. If I tighten this collar and remove almost all of the above mentioned 0.06mm I cannot turn the crossfeed handle at all. Is the trick making a compromise between ease of operation and trying to eliminate backlash?

Sorry for the questions, this new hobby and taken me hook, line and sinker

Mark

Thanks for the very helpful replies gents. Using the steady seems a good idea. I think I was perhaps trying to cut the corner a little bit and gain some time. Thanks again for taking the time to help,

Mark

Thanks for the replies. The stock was 300mm, so sticking out a fair bit from the 100mm 3 jaw chuck. I will use a DTI to ensure the stock is as centered as I can get it and go from there. An increase in speed is a good idea Al, I will try that too.

Thanks again,

Mark

Gents,

What is the best way to centre drill a rod that doesn't pass through the head stock? Our S7 (not a big bore S7) can't pass a 1 inch bar and we have to centre drill it for support. Should I be breaking out the fixed steady and doing it that way or are there simpler (read: faster) methods of doing this?

And secondly, is 640 rpm a good speed for centre drilling or should that be bumped up a notch? The reason i ask is that we struggled to centre drill at this speed and I was concerned that perhaps the drill itself wasn't any good.

Apologies for the simple questions and thanks,

Mark

Nick,

The second drawing is the clue here as Phil P said in the second posting. Thanks, that's a handy diagram to have.

Mark

Thanks Martin!

Barrie,

I got them from Dixi Polytool. Their website is **LINK**

I am in the Netherlands but they probably have a UK shop too.

Mark