Member postings for Mark Gould 1

Funniest thing I’ve read in weeks!

Looks beautiful so far, looking forward to some more updates,

Mark

Is the tool exactly perpendicular to the work? Is the tool height correct? Is the carriage locked? Is the work not spinning too fast? Are you using enough lubricant? Are you feeding the tool at the correct rate?

I am by no means an expert on parting and have had my share of mishaps but these are the questions to answer.

Good luck,

Mark

Nice work. I once bought a tail stock die holder and regretted not making it myself. Hope to see yours completed soon,

Mark

I learned a lot by watching youtube video’s. There are several excellent “creators” who have made videos on lathe basics. Easier to digest than text from a book but that might be my inherent laziness shining through

Mark

Mart,

Thanks, there's a long way to go! It;'s nice to know there is such a wealth of knowledge here and (more importantly) people willing to share it!

Mark

Thanks Bear, good tip, I have enough Delrin lying around to mess around with.

Loving your progress Garth, you seem to be doing everything right! Quick question though, how do you get all of your photos to be oriented correctly? I have the occasional one that turns out rotated when I upload it to my album. Sorry to hijack this lovely build thread with a question.

Mark

@NDIY, yes I had a half dead center to support the work.

@Martin, I initially tried to establish 30 deg by using a precision ground angle plate from a set I bought from Arc but couldn’t get it exact so reverted to a direct plunge method. Your way sounds logical, wish I had thought of that! I find setting the angle on a Myford compound difficult to get exactly right.

Thanks again,

Mark

Martin, good idea. I have not examined the insert yet but will do that, thanks. I will also pull it back into the holder a bit more. No reason at all for the over hang.

Mick, yes this was a plunge cut. I used copious amounts of oil As you can see in the photo but will cut them at the proper angle once I have discovered how to accurately establish the 29,5 deg recommended for a Metric thread. Thanks for the tips,

Mark

That is a pic I borrowed off this site. I'm not sure who's it is and all I did was added "this one" to show the appropriate gear.

Mark

No worries David, I am not at the level to have properly understood what you said anyway so no harm done. Thanks anyway though.

@Steviegtr this is the wheel to place the 33t or 34t gear. Because it is a bit bigger than the gear normally in that position you have to drop the banjo a little bit lower. This means you have to make a simple drop arm.

Gents,

I took all of your advice to heart and had another go today. Total succes, even pleased with the fit. This is not a functional part, merely a test cut to validate Brian Woods drop arm and 33T/34T set up. Worked like a charm.

Thanks for all the tips,

Mark

I am a novice but was told that the best way around this is to take a heavy cut. Otherwise the tool skates on the chilled outside.

Mark

Hi Martin,

Correct, I wasn't cutting a left hand thread on the way back for the reason you state. I was messing up the right hand thread on the reverse pass.

Mark

Micky, many thanks, yes that must be it indeed as Brian and David also said.

Upwards and onwards!

Mark

David and Brian, many thanks, I will persevere and report back. I’ll try and cut an M20 in aluminium just so I can a little better at what is happening.
Thanks again,

Mark

Gents,

After reading Brian Woods book on the 33t and 34T threading possibilities for the Myford S7 I made the drop arm required to lower the banjo slightly and set up to cut a thread. Work piece was supported by a half dead center.

I had a go at an M10 x 1.5 and the results were terrible, I couldn't even call it a thread. More like a train wreck. This is what I did. Please let me know if my thinking is on the right track here.

Half nuts left engaged the whole time. I used the "jog" function I have and took a first pass which conformed 1.5mm pitch. I then reversed the machine and dragged the tool over the first thread. This buggered everything up. Was this because of backlash in the gear train? Should I have retracted the tool first, then reversed everything, moved the tool back in and only then taken another pass?

Am I right in assuming that you can't just reverse a gear train set up and expect the tool to pass over the exact same scratches you just made?

Sorry for the silly question, all help is much appreciated,

Mark

Good point Martin, I actually have one of those and would have never even considered it.

Mark

Looks like a nice piece of kit you've made Richard. Which tools do you play using when hand turning?

Mark