Here is a list of all the postings Neil A has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fork and blade conrods|
I don't think that there was a particular convention for which way round the rods were fitted, although manufacturers would have their own preference. It is probably more to do with how much clearance there was inside the crankcase for the big end bolts. This would have been fixed in the design stage.
I can't remember ever swapping the rods around when a reverse-rotation engine was built, that would have caused confusion when you have a standard rotation engine sitting beside it in a boat. The only thing I remember is checking the timing of the oil feeds to the bearings and up the rods to make sure they worked both ways.
Reverse-rotation engines are a bit special as it is normally easier to install a reverse reduction gearbox, keeps both engines the same on a boat.
|Thread: End mill sharpening jig|
I've just looked at the design in book 38, I don't believe there is anything wrong with the design. What could be confusing is the fact that the 14mm hole in the front bearing, item 64, is sleeved down to 8mm diameter by the tooth rest support clamp ring, item 75. This ring prevents the clamp screw marking the tooth rest support spindle which is only 8mm diameter.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Interference fit of bush - PB into mild steel|
I would second the sliding fit and use Loctite 641 bearing fit or its equivalent.
A 0.001" interference on a 3/8" diameter is very high, we used to reckon on 0.001" per inch of diameter as a good interference fit.
Heating one part and cooling the other works well on parts that have a reasonable mass, but small components will equalise their temperature too quickly and you may not get them together before they grab.
With a small diameter bush like this, probably with a thin wall thickness, nearly all the interference will end up reducing the bore. With the Loctite method the bush can be finished to size before fitting.
How much clearance? Check the data sheet for what you have. Loctite guide gives 0.001 to 0.003 clearance as optimum.
Edited By Neil A on 06/03/2019 21:58:06
Edited By Neil A on 06/03/2019 22:08:35
|Thread: Micrometer woes|
I've had the same problem with the foam liners for large Custom Cases. It seemed to lose resilience and turned into a sticky mass over about 30 years of use. I also found that the residue did leave some slight unsightly corrosion on the metal surfaces which took some time to clean off.
I have replaced them with a similar foam from the manufacturer as I thought I was just unlucky with the way the cases were stored, but now see that I shall have to keep a close eye on the condition of the foam in future.
Thank you for the timely warning to check all my micrometers and other instruments that have foam in the cases.
|Thread: Use of Colour on Drawings|
My own preference would be for option 1. It is what I am used to.
When I produced CAD drawings at work, like Duncan, I used various coloured lines on a black screen, but they were always printed out with black ink on white paper. Also the outlines were drawn 0.7mm with the other lines and dimensions at 0.5mm. Of course, this was on A0, A1 and A2 sized sheets, you would probably need to make a scaled adjustment when working on A3 or A4.
As regards to using colour on the printed drawing, personally, I find that some colours are not that easy to read. Julius de Waal produces some very nice drawings, he uses rendered pictures, isometric views with some colour, in addition to conventional 2D views, to illustrate his models. Drawings like his I have no problem with, I quite like his style, although he does put more parts on each sheet than I would.
At the end of the day it is all about clearly defining what is intended to be made and hoping that you have not been ambiguous on some feature or missed out some dimensions. It can be difficult to check your own work. It is all too easy to know what you meant to be made, but have you actually shown it?
|Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling|
Just to clarify my thinking
If the spindle is truly vertical then rotating the column on its horizontal flange will not effect the vertical axis of the spindle, only its position in the X and Y axis above the table. Hopefully the horizontal faces of the column and base are parallel to the top of the table otherwise there will be some effect, albeit small. Rotation is limited by the clearance in the setscrew holes.
Sorry to cause confusion, should have stuck to saying "no dowels".
The SX2P just has the four M8 fasteners holding the column to the base, no dowels.
If you think about it a small angular movement between the column and base has no effect on the vertical axis of the spindle.
|Thread: Unknown castings|
I'm afraid I've not able to identify your castings from an internet search, but as has been stated, they seem to be from a horizontal engine.
Could you give the nominal dimensions of the cylinder, approximate bore and length, this might help in the identification. Also, perhaps, a list of the cast on part numbers might again give a clue to the supplier.
Of course, there is the possibility that they are not all from the same model, just to confuse things.
I hope that someone can identify them for you, they seem to be good clean castings, just waiting to be machined.
|Thread: Ultra Miniature 3V E10 Indicator Light Bulb Needed|
You might find what you need at "Rapid Electronics", they have a fair selection.
Just search for E10 MES lamps.
Edited By Neil A on 06/09/2018 11:04:33
|Thread: Anyone know how this works?|
I think John is right about there being just a simple knurled nut clamping the setting dial to the worm wheel.
It has been a long time since I saw one of these clock mechanisms with the cover off, but it does jog my memory of watching someone reset the time when the clocks changed from GMT to BST. They had no special tools and it was done in a matter of minutes.
Looking at the drive, I suspect that there should be some sort of spring friction drive between the worm wheel and the hand setting dial. A view on the other side of the hand setting dial may show some signs of this.
This would allow the hands to be moved in relation to worm wheel.
I am sure that others on this forum will have a better idea of the details of these types of drives than I do.
Just had a thought, usually the springs are in the form of a dished washer giving just enough friction to drive the hands, but still allow the parts to be moved in relation to each other.
Edited By Neil A on 19/08/2018 12:21:22
|Thread: Stuart D10 very early model.... nuts and bolts|
If the thread was 36 TPI rather than 38 TPI it would make more sense. It can be difficult sometimes checking the thread form on small diameter fine threads. It can be quite awkward to get a thread pitch gauge into the right position.
The taps Tracey Tools have are not very expensive in carbon steel, I would certainly get a plug tap just to try if I were in your position, you might be surprised.
The only reference I can find for 3/16" x 38TPI is in my old 11th Edition Machinery's Handbook for "American Standard Thread Forms". 3/32" x 48TPI also appears in that table.
Whether anyone currently produces threading equipment for this size I have no idea. I'm sorry this information is not very helpful.
Perhaps the original builder had taps and dies for this size from where they worked.
It looks as if your easiest option is to plug and tap in a size that you have, although it is disappointing not to be able to replicate the original builders parts.
I don't know if you are game for making carbon steel taps and dies, perhaps someone can give you some tips on how to go about it.
It is nice to be able to bring an old model back to life, very satisfying. It looks good.
Edited By Neil A on 09/08/2018 15:03:45
|Thread: Engine plans|
Have I missed something here?
The only two people in this discussion who have actually attempted to answer the original question of whether there was a metric version of the engine are Jason B and Jim Nic.
Everyone else seems to have hopped on the old hobbyhorse of imperial verses metric, which is not the answer we are after.
If there was a metric version already produced, I am sure that Ian McVickers would not wish to "re-invent the wheel", but just save himself a little extra work. It is just a fact of life that older drawings were produced in the dimensioning system of the day.
In reality the imperial and metric systems are no better or worse than each other, just different. They both produce working models. You just have to be careful if you choose to mix them on the same part.
Edited By Neil A on 08/08/2018 23:58:15
Edited By Neil A on 08/08/2018 23:59:25
|Thread: Am I getting an irritable old git?|
I have been following this post just to see where it leads. I think that we have all at sometime experienced "dyslexic fingers" while typing or have been "helped" by spellcheck to put in the wrong word.
It is always nice if the grammar and spelling are correct, but none of us are perfect, so there are bound to be little errors here and there. It only really matters if the errors alter the complete sense of the statement made.
At this stage, I am reminded of the following passage from "Through the Looking Glass":
"When I use a word," Humpty Dumpty said, in rather a scornful tone, "it means just what I choose it to mean—neither more nor less."
|Thread: Metal combinations for a plain bearing|
I think Farmboy has the right idea, this cone type bearing arrangement is used a lot on toy gyroscopes. The spindle is fixed to the wheel and the outer bearings are adjustable screws, easy to take apart. I would not use a centre drill for the cone as it will give you a hole where the slurry will collect. You could also harden the parts as HOWARDT recommended. I also think the suggestion of washing it after use will help extend its life. It's going to have a hard life what ever you choose to do. Let us know how you get on.
As has been said, the real problem is the clay slurry getting into the bearing. The particles imbed themselves into the softer material and then act as a lap on the harder part. Can your design be made to incorporate a V-Ring seal each side, this may give you a fighting chance for a longer life in such an aggressive situation. Simply Bearings sell these in quite small sizes. Might be worth considering.
|Thread: Would you like to own EVERY SINGLE Model Engineer edition ever published?|
I have just read Hopper's posting on "The Bad-Ass Librarians of Timbuktu", I must get a copy of that it sounds a good read.
The fact that they had to collect the manuscripts from family homes and desert caves just goes to show how easy it is for valuable documents to be lost forever.
Mike Poole's suggestion that as a project we each scan a set number of issues from our collections in an agreed format is a very sound idea. Many years ago I was one of a group of volunteers involved in the transferring of over 270,000 hand written records into a computer database, it did not take forever, so it can be done. Just needs that first step.
This need not be confined to just ME or MEW, between us we probably hold many very interesting books and documents that are now not available, even to the British Library.
Up to ME issue 4584 there are probably less than 300,000 pages that need copying, and that includes the very interesting covers and the advertisements inside which can be a valuable source of information.
Reading this forum post, I am reminded that many old, valuable and rare documents and items have been thrown away and are still being destroyed by well meaning relatives while clearing a deceased persons property.
They get thrown away simply because the person doing the clearing has no idea what they are looking at.
Unfortunately there is no way of stopping this happening and so many out of print reference books and old magazines will disappear unless they are recorded in someway for future generations.
I'm afraid copyright issues will remain a problem in this respect.
|Thread: New workshop building advice.|
If you are looking for ideas on building a new workshop, I can recommend buying a copy of "Workshop Construction" number 23 in the workshop Practice Series. It gives a great deal of information on various methods of construction and some advice on planning regulations, although these may vary from district to district. I am sure you will find something in the book which will be of interest.
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