Member postings for Philip Burley

I am starting to make a screw down regulator for a small loco , What materials would be best for the valve ? Bronze for the base and stainless for the taper part was what I was thinking of What do others use ?

regards Phil

I just wonder if any one has a copy of the drawing of the big boiler Tich , or a photo copy . Only the boiler details are needed , the drawing in the book is a bit small for my eyesight !!!!!

regards Phil

I only have the drawings on here , I will have to try and print them off and enlarge them . But has anyone made a screw down regulator for a Tich ?

if I can blow up that drawing for one off a Firefly it would probably be ok . Problem is how to enlarge it !

Hello , I am about to start to make a regulator for a big boiler Tich , I would like to make a screw down type as it looks simpler . Has any one any experience of one ?. I have seen several drawings , but they all seem to be drawn by people who know what they are doing for people who know what they are doing . Any fully explained designs available for us beginners ?

regards Phil

I just wonder if the Man from Prees who had his steam engines on show at the Malpas show is on this site ? If you are will you please contact me . we spoke about the reversing gear on your ST No 4

Regards Phil Burley ,

if you still want the LC Mason book featuring Minnie , you7 can have mine for £10 posted

regards

How could I reduce the thickness of a piston rings from 3./16 to 1/8 inch with out a proper grinder

regards

I ran the engine on the lathe with plenty of oil down the cylinder , and now it will run OK . Needs plenty of air though, my little compressor will hardly keep up . Its satisfying when it first works isn't it !!!
regards

a bit more than that when relaxed , I think they are just too expanded ,

regards Phil

I checked the clearance yesterday , 4 thos , its a 2 inch bore , the piston is in 2 halves , with 2 rings between them . The rings are free to turn when the piston halves are screwed together and clear at bottom of the groves . The rings do seem to excessively tight when pushed into the bore , , more like rings for a rebore of + 20 . I guess if I run it in on the lathe it will bed in . ( I hope ) These rings from ST are expensive , I might have a try at making some , I have a suitable piece of CI . PS the cylinder was honed with an expanding hone device and it's not undersize

Regards

I have built a Stuart Turner No 1 , iron piston in iron cylinder , The piston slides up the bore with a light push . When assembled with out rings the engine turns over easily , but with the rings in it's extremely tight . The rings have a small gap and clearance at the bottom of the grove and free to move in the grove . Should I hone out the cylinder a bit more ? How much piston clearance should there be ? PS the rings a a Stuart Turner product

regards

that looks like a plan . thanks for the idea

probably only test steaming , nothing too serious , trying to get the strips to fit between the flanges , so not a firm base to work on

I want to clad a cylinder with wood strips , there is an irregular gap underneath them . What would be a good filler ? fire clay maybe or bathroom sealant has been mentioned , any ideas ?

regards

thinking about it , I suppose it might be worth changing the condenser first , see what that does , as I would still have to get one anyway

sounds logical , The condenser on the mimi Wypac flywheel mag is a brass tube behind the points , I can feel a bit of a shock but not enough to generate a spark , I expect after 60 years the insulation has broken down , So I will find a small Honda style coil and condenser and see what I can come up with , Thanks for explaining in simple terms how to do it . My cars have been diesels and my mower is electronic , Regards Phil

To go to the other extreme , My son has had a Power Pac !950 s . bike engine given him . , Cant get a spark on it though . I expect the coil had had it , How can I adapt the points system to an external coil and battery ?

regards

no of course ,I remember that the previous engines I have made have had the ports drilled from the ends so they would be uncovered

regards

that sounds like a scheme , I can do that OK , Then my piston will be OK . Thanks ever so , I was getting worried that had made a disaster , but I couldn't work out where . The must have been hundreds of No 1 s made to presumably they will work with the ports covered at the ends of the stroke , but must be better to be able to exhaust all the steam

regards