Here is a list of all the postings Philip Burley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: slidway lapping|
Hello , I have taken out a sub on MEW , so will be able to read " how to do it " , But I wonder if any kind person would send me a copy of the measuring article in last months mag please
hello , the answers are just about what I thought . My old S7 saddle is ok where most of my work is done but tight at the tail end ., But I never need to go there anyway !!!!
I have just been reading in an old copy of ME about how to lap in a saddle that is tight at tailstock end due to years of work at the headstock end using something called Timesaver compound on the bed edge under the gib strips . Has anyone tried it ? Might end up being sloppy fit every where !!
|Thread: engine tightness|
I think I am worrying too much !! after all it works , so cant be much too tight , its just the newness !!
my piston isn't made in 2 halves so not quite to easy to remove the rings to check it without the drag of them , but I will dismantle it and check . The bore wasn't lapped , but it has been run on the lathe for half an hour well oiled , Thing is , should the engine spin over a couple of turns , or is that expecting too much ? . It certainly wont at the moment . but it turns with a finger in the fly wheel , Not having anything to compare it to is the problem
Hello , I have built a ST no I engine , 2 in X 2 in, Thing is , how tight should it be ? It turns over , but not freely . run it in on the lathe for half an hour and runs on air . It has home made iron rings . Previously made mill engine and a beam engine turn much more freely . . I just wondered if the piston fit or, the rings are too tight Can any one with a similar engine tell me how easily there's turns over
|Thread: Saw doctor|
I spent my whole working life as a saw doctor in various saw mills , with a good sideline sharpening hand saws . The cost of proper files and cheap hard tips saws put an end to that , these days deteriorating eyesight prevents me doing the fine tooth ones , bur still sharpen my own hand saw ,
|Thread: Red Wing build article|
thanks Mike , that's the one I have downloaded , just thought that any other ideas about how to do things would be useful
John , I will send you a PM and I hope we can correspond
Hello Yes I have downloaded one build article , but cant have too many ideas about how to tackle it
I just wondered if any one had a print out of the Red Wing build article that I understand appeared in ME April 2000, Vol 184 No 4117. I don't know if there were follow ups in later issues .
|Thread: citric acid|
So should I dump this and mix some fresh , or carry on using it , Will it still have the cleaning effect ? Should I have made a stronger mix ?
A couple of weeks ago I made a mix of citric acid from powder , I used it for cleaning some copper parts before I soldered them . Today I took the lid off to use it again and found it contaminated with a lot of small black balls of something . I would have thought that the mildly acid solution would kill off any fungus etc Any ideas what this might be ?
|Thread: Drill running off course|
I had this trouble drill bronze , A friend re sharpened my drills and since I have had no problems , Some of the new 2.5 mm drills were very poorly sharpened , but they were cheapo ones
|Thread: drillling bronze|
well there's a thing , Never had much success sharpening very tiny drill s , but just did it with small high speed wheel and magnifying glass , flattened the edge a bit and low they cut far better that they ever did new , lovely curly chips coming out . ! pity I spoiled the bit of bronze , have to start again now .
I was sold to me as PB1 , drilling about 1/4 inch deep , tried fast and slower and with neat cutting oil , but havnt flattened off the drill edges , Sent for some more drills Run out now !
I have given up for this morning , broken 2 drills , trying to drill some bronze 2 1/2 mm to tap 3 mm . Where am I going wrong ?
|Thread: boiler making|
Thanks . that Polly site is useful
When soldering boiler components together I understand that I must leave space for the silver solder to run . Thing is , how much space ? tubes a push fit , slack fit ? End plates the same ? You cant measure the gap round a 5/16 tube When I worked in saw mills we jointed wide bandsaws with silver solder strip , but clamped the blade scarf joint very tightly together . A guide would be appreciated
|Thread: bronze or brass|
I am pretty sure this is bronze , different colour to brass and machines with "curly bits" not the spray you get with brass, but I will play safe and buy some known bronze for the bushes and use this for the fittings Thanks for the help
how can you tell bronze from brass by looking at it ? I have a casting that was for a traction engine front hub , I want to use it for boiler fittings , its a different colour from brass ,
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