Here is a list of all the postings Paul Jarvis 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: accessing the Myford website|
Martin just logged in using internet explorer and chrome no problems with Kaspersky security
|Thread: metric thread on my imperial lathe|
Whatever you do, do not open the lead-screw half-nuts under any circumstances between passes.
Well I would heed the advice above, as from bitter experience cutting metric threads on imperial machines. I ended up with a multi start thread, especially on my Myford . The cuts did not superimpose over one another
Leave the half nuts engaged at all times once you start, withdraw the tool out at the end of the thread and reverse the machine to start position and then take next cut, simple and completely risk free.
|Thread: Dore Westbury 5" machine vice?|
There is one on Ebay right now ends in about 3 hours **LINK**
|Thread: Myford Super 7B Apron Hand wheel install|
I had the same problem in my case the fit of the hand wheel to shaft was a good slide fit.
I slid the hand wheel onto the shaft as far as it would go and then pulled it back slightly. The fit was such that it drew the shaft back enabling me to be able to insert an old six inch rule into the gap flat up against the apron face applying pressure to the end of the rule I was able to stop the shaft moving into the apron whilst I pushed the hand wheel gently further onto the shaft. I couple of attempts and the hand wheel was on as far as it would go leaving a gap of about .030 inches.
The hand wheel has operated ok since fitting.
|Thread: Miniature Hand Rivet Squeezer suppliers|
Their have from time to time over the years been a few articles in the magazine on the manufacture of Hand Rivet squeezers. Many years ago if I remember correctly I think MES offered a set of Rivet squeezer Yoke castings with throat depths of 12mm 45mm and 75mm and a capacity of 3/32 or 2.4 mm diameter rivets.
At the time I did not have a need of them, but as usual when I decided that they would be very handy they had disappeared completely with out a trace.
I contacted all the Model Engineering Suppliers at the time to no avail. That was about 5 years ago and I have since regularly searched Google without success that was until recently, when by accident I fell across a guy in Germany who was making his own Hand rivet squeezers he had based his design on an existing casting.
After more ferreting I found that a company called Atelier MB **LINK** supplies what for all intents and purposes look to be the same set of three castings together with either a metric or imperial drawing previously available from MES.
I quickly ordered a set and was very impressed with the quality of the casting. So those of you who may presently be looking to manufacture a set of small hand squeezers these castings may well be of interest.
For those of you in a tearing hurry they also supply fully finished hand squeezers in the three sizes pictures on the site
Note if you visit the site select the online pattern shop and don't be fooled as I was by the online bobbin lace shop link into thinking they meant dress patterns and that you have got the wrong site.
Within the pattern shop link you will also find locomotive wheel castings and various engine castings which may also be of interest
|Thread: Polishing Stones|
Steve I recently found this company **LINK** they can provide exactly what you are looking for and they have an extensive range.
I purchased several small mounted abrasive wheels they were most helpful
|Thread: Boxford shaper|
Hi It is over twenty five years since I had the table off my Boxford Shaper to replace the lead screw nut.
If my memory serves me right I to had the same problem and I had to take the gib out and pull the table forward off the slide to get enough clearance to fully release the lead screw nut location boss from the back of the table.
I can remember there was very little clearance it was a close fit and a struggle but it came out.
With the nut removed you can withdraw the table off the slide to the left
|Thread: drilling HSS|
You could use a 4mm screw drill, these carbide drills are employed to remove HSS taps etc and are available in 4 mm from companies like Cromwell tools ( usual disclaimers) they are not cheap however.
Don't bond the blades as they will definitely come off if the blade gets hot. I would also advise against clamping them without some retaining method as I have experience of them coming off at high speed when core carving with a vertical spindle with major consequences.
|Thread: Shaper madness|
I would not be parted from my Boxford 8 inch stroke single phase machine it is an extremely versatile and robust machine.
It can produce work not possible on the mill with out resorting to very special cutters and it is very cheap to run in terms of tooling.
Tooling is simple to create and sharpen and long lasting I use 8 mm cobalt HSS square tool bits in a tool holder.
The machine can do anything from blocking up and removing bulk, comfortably removing 3mm plus per pass to high precision and fine surface finish work. I can run it on self feed and do something else in the shop whilst it does the hard work
Having been trained to use a shaper as an apprentice I tend to use it a lot it saves my milling cutters and I could not recommend owning one and finding the space for one highly enough.
When you have got used to it you will wonder how you ever managed before without it.
|Thread: 4 jaw chuck jaw numbering|
My 4 jaw is simply numbered 1 2 3 4 in rotation, even numbers one pair of jaws odd numbers the other.
easy to remember when your in a hurry.
|Thread: Drawing Projections|
The trapezoid shape is representative of a frustrum of a cone and is the side elevation or main view of the drawing
The rule I was taught when in the drawing office is very simple,
For first angle projection view the side elevation from the right hand side and draw the resulting end view on the left hand side of the side elevation( i.e view through the object)
For third angle projection view the side elevation from the right hand side as before and draw the resulting end view on the right hand side of the side elevation.
The same rule applies for the plan view.
|Thread: Chinese horizontal bandsaws|
I bought mine from a local tool company many years ago and it worked straight out of the box. For such a Heath Robison construction it has performed extremely well cutting every thing and anything I have thrown at it.
I soon found out after buying it it worked much better with Starrett blades however more recently I found it works even better with Lenox Die Master 2 blades. Square ness of cut has never been a problem although I do tend to adjust the width between the guide rollers to suit the job and keep the saw clean.
|Thread: what size rotary table?|
Totally agree with Tim you need to ensure that the table is not to big for your machine and that you have enough machine table movement to use the table effectively.
However in my experience if you can fit a larger size table to your machine then that is the one to buy. Clamping arrangements as said before generally take up a lot of table space. I have a 6 inch and an 8 inch unit and struggle sometimes with the 6 inch to clamp up the work effectively.
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