Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Wood 7 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Issue Reading New Digital Viewer|
I found that on the latest issue 4605 the display is different and there is no longer a 'print' tab at the top of the page when expanded. This was very useful when following a series enabling a build file to be created. It is then a bit tricky to print off pages. Will the print feature be reinstated or have I missed something? Andrew
Edited By JasonB on 29/01/2019 18:44:11
|Thread: ME vertical boiler|
Thanks very much that advice Neil. Yes scrubbing and leaving in water don't seem to have much effect and you can't scrub the inside and any crevices. The supplier of the citric acid (CuPalloys) suggest 20 GM per litre. It sounds to me like a fairly dilute solution but I've no idea if this is particularly strong or not but presumably suitable for the purpose and works OK on EF. The tenacity flux supplier recommends Sodium hydroxide, an alkali, to remove the flux but I haven't tried that yet, maybe that would work better although it is a bit more hazardous?
This is my first boiler and silver soldering project. I'm a bit behind on this but am in the process of silver soldering the boiler. I used the normal EF flux on the hand pump but on the advice of someone more experienced than me in the local model engineering society i switched to Tenacity 5 for the tubes and endplate assembly. This worked very well on the two endplates (except the whole assembly distorted slightly and ended up a bit out of square) but the flux forms quite a hard glassy like deposit and was more difficult to remove than EF flux. So i then reverted to the EF flux for the first set of bushes and that worked OK. When I came to the lower temperature solder for soldering the endplates into the barrel used EF Flux but this did not work so well as the flux became exhausted too soon and there was not enough solder to make a good fillet and it didn't give me any time to add extra solder. Although the endplate was a tight fit in the barrel it tapered in a bit leaving a larger gap towards the end. Cleaning up seems to take much longer than a dip in the citric acid for 20 mins and a soak in water as advised in the article. To get back to shiny or pink copper I have soak in the acid for hours alternating with washing and brushing off so I don't know if I've not got strong enough acid or am being too fussy in getting rid of all the brown oxide? Does the flux cut through a bit of the brown oxide or do I need to get it all shiny again for the process to work?
|Thread: ME Vertical Boiler & Hand Pump|
I'm part way through silver soldering the boiler and notice that after soldering the two tube plates and fire tube assembly (and first two bushes) with medium temperature silver solder the assembly is then soldered to the barrel using the lower temperature solder but then returning to solder the last two bushes with the medium temperature solder. Doesn't this jeopardise the previous lower temperature solder joints? Or have a I misread the article?
|Thread: ME vertical boiler|
JC54, this is a bit late perhaps but the best way, if you can do it is to subscribe to the digital edition and then you have access to all the back issues you want, several years worth anyway. I then print out the parts I need for the boiler and put them in a folder. Andrew
|Thread: Program to Calculate all Possible Lathe Thread Pitches|
Just discovered this brilliant program, thanks very much Richard. I was struggling to find an accurate 32tpi setting on my WM180 and using the program (on XP) with a bit of sorting in excel using the csv files I found several possibilities. The WM180 has an extra gear wheel but varying the initial ratio setting enabled me to get the correct answers. I already had made an excel program to calculate the pitch and tpi so it was easy to check. It's a pity this couldn't be somewhere more prominently on the ME site as it was only by chance I happened on the link. I haven't tried the pdf option btw.
|Thread: ME Vertical Boiler & Hand Pump|
I have come to the boiler assembly on page 511 Model Engineer 28 September and there are two measurements for the distance over the outside of the tube plates. The text says 102mm and the photo 75 says 100mm. Not much in it but may as well check which is correct?
I've flared the tubes as described in the article. However the copper I had must have been harder than the author's as, far from being a gentle tap, it took quite number of firm blows to achieve the desired flare. On average the flare was 0.6mm on diameter for the larger tubes and 0.3mm on diameter for the smaller tubes so I suspect this will be enough to stop them falling through. There was no sign of splitting but maybe if the tubes are hard drawn then they would need annealing before working on them? I bought all the materials from Noggin End as advised but it doesn't mention the hardness on the web site.
I'm just making the SS flaring rings and flaring drift in this series and they have been specified with some small external radii R0.5 and R1. Would anyone have any suggestions as to the best / easiest way to achieve these radii on the manual lathe?
I'm a fairly new member and I've only had my WM180 lathe for the twelve months now so somewhat inexperienced although I did go through the engineering training school nearly 50 years ago. I am following this series with interest and noted that someone commented on the assumption that a mill was needed. As I don't have a mill yet I did the pump body machining on my WM180 with a jacobs chuck (!) and vertical slide fitted as in the picture. Taking fairly small 1mm cuts didn't really have any problems. Coming to the brazing, not having a large brazing torch, i used my plumbing torch on the body and achieved a satisfactory result as far as I can see (first time I've brazed anything). Thought this might be of interest and I'm looking forward to the rest of the series. I imagine I might need a bigger torch for the boiler itself.
With reference to the description of the machining of the M4 fixing holes in part 4 Machining part 1 paragraphs 2 & 3 Martin says to position the datum to the right and then drill the holes at -11mm and -29mm. However on the drawing fig 3 the datum is shown to the left at the 11mm and 29mm dimensions are from the opposite end. Since the holes are not symmetrically placed might this cause a problem?
Another query - when people say drill and tap M4 x 8mm deep, is the 8mm the length of the thread or the total depth of the hole? Depending on your plug tap you might need quite a bit more clearance at the bottom of the hole to obtain 8mm full thread.
Thanks for any replies.
I have a question about the D bit to be used to make the valve seat. I am slightly confused in part 4 by the drawing of the bit figure 2 that appears to me to show the 15 degree slope the opposite way compared to the way I thought it should be and compared to the picture no 4. Anyone else have the same issue?
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