Here is a list of all the postings damian noble has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help identifying brazing/soldering rods|
Finally found some flux. The same one as Nick detailed above
The tin is rather battered but usable.
Filing the end up seems to be softer than stainless and as flexible as the brass being like for like diameter?
I've not tries melting any as yet so maybe that will give a clue?
Mentioning boc my dad has some oxygen acetylene torches but no gas so they will probably head for sale as I have no use for them ( just got TIG tackle hence the thread)
Cheers and again thanks for the answers and advice
There's a lot of info there chaps and I'm certain they are silicon bronze from your comments. I've had the vernier on them and they are just under 3.2mm.
Just on with some others now which have no markings at all
The ones above are 308 stainless. But not sure what the duller rods are?
Many thanks for all the info.Wish he'd had chance to label all the oddities as it would've been a lot easier
Edited By damian noble on 29/12/2021 19:06:10
Thanks for the replies chaps,
Nick my dad was a plumber, pipefitter, welder. He had many skills when it came to joining metal.
Noel and Paul have jogged another memory and I'm sure my dad said something about blue ends but I'm not sure if these were the rods? With that I've just been to the garage for another look at them.
There it is amongst some corrosion a hint of blue. There are probably a dozen of them at at around 4mm?
My dad recently passed away and we discussed many of the items he had. I've come to the unenviable task of working my way through the garage. Many items.
He did tell me about some rods but I cannot remember what he said about them. Here's a close up. As far as I can see they say Saffire sb made in england.
Any info would be greatly appreciated
Edited By damian noble on 29/12/2021 16:27:14
|Thread: Vernier caliper spares|
Thanks old Mart. Never thought but checked the other smaller mitutoyo vernier and you're spot on.
Had some brass shim stock needed to be 1.25mm so adjusted it to suit. The width was 6mm and is held in place by a dog point grub screw on both sections with a 2mm end.
Fitted and adjusted it's now working like new.
Thanks for the help guys
This was my second thought. My mitutoyo verniers are very similar and seem to use a piece of spring steel with a retaining peg hole which seems to be the case with the missing gibs.
I will try to raise a line of enquiry with M&W again before resorting to making some.
I have tried. Seems to be very difficult to actually get in touch with them. Most numbers are sales only.
I have what look to be a set of moore and wright 600mm vernier calipers which are missing the small gib/friction strips in the main body and the fine adjustment body.
I will try to upload some photos
Does anyone know where I can get spares
|Thread: Senior S Type Vert' mill repair|
Lots of info there and many thanks again I'm sure I'll sort it out in the very near future.
Old mart Is your drawing the wrong way up? as my sleeve goes in from underneath and the small end of the drive sleeve is where the pulley is attached.
Thanks for the replies to the old thread àfellas and all the info.
I'm really glad the mod is still going strong Simon and the R8 conversion looks a great job.
I will look into getting some bearings and sort the conversion out as soon as possible. There are various types of bearings available so may end up with something slightly different to above.
I may be able to chuck the upper housing up on the lathe but more likely will bore it on the bridgeport.
I've enjoyed using mine and it has produced some really accurate work with the 3 axis dro kit.
Hi Old Mart, I recently read the thread concerning this which was interesting.
I think I would need to fit needle roller inner sleeve's as the original drive sleeve like Simon's above has some scoring and wear. It drives the spindle with the single key slot.
Did you take any measurements of the bearings whilst out?
It's an old thread but I was wondering how the needle bearings are holding up Simon?
The newer tom senior S type heads had the needle rollers in from the factory and I was thinking of modifying mine as the bronze bush needs oiling quite frequently in use.
The design puts radial load on the drive sleeve/bush when the belt is tensioned. Combined with the pulley running ontop of the bronze bush the friction is quite high especially if lacking oil. Another small problem is oil eventually makes it's way up into the belt housing which needs cleaning occasionally.
I notice you fitted a ptfe thrust washer but I have seen these which may be a different option which seem to incorporate axial thrust Needle roller. Although the axial thrust is minimal being only the weight of the drive pulley that's attached to the sleeve.
Thanks for the mention at the start of the thread btw.
|Thread: Colchester student 2500/harrison m300 feed gearbox cams|
Using the info above from Bazyle I have refitted the cam assembly and adjusted the selector knob so that it changes whilst lining up the gears fully. Had to file the flat slightly on the selector
The selector still needs the occasional jiggle but changes are a lot lighter and more positive.
As Bazyle said looking from the rear as most photos of the removed box are, the numbers are reversed from the input side.
So the positions on the selector are (7,8)(1,2)(5,6)(3,4)
Many thanks Rob I can work with the info above but pics tell a thousand words.
Once I get it back together I will take a few pics and post them.to the harrison group.
Incidentally I've had to replace the powerfeed output shaft and bush (harrison manual 303056 and 303107 colchester numbers are different) as these were badly worn, luckily a friend turned these up for me. Not sure about the other phosphor bronze bushes in the box but probably some wear in those too.
Cheers all for the assistance
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