Here is a list of all the postings James Jenkins 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Been an idot with my Clarkson T&C Grinder - can you help?|
Thanks for the offers of dimensions - really helpful if I have to go down that route. Not something I have done before, I guess it can be made from guage stock? Obviously I would much rather just buy one! So if you have one or know someone who might have one please do let me know.
I have been an idiot with my mew Mk 1 Clarkson tool and cutter grinder. It's in good condition and just needed a clean up, reassembly and oil/grease. I brought some parts home to clean, which I did and now I cannot find them anywhere. It's really, really unlike me and makes me think they must be really lost or accidentally thrown away - I've been looking for two weeks!
By any chance has anyone got one they are breaking for spares? I have lost the setscrews for mounting the top plate to the base and then the top pillar to this. These aren't really a problem, as I can obviously replace them easy, but I really would like them to match the rest.
However, the thing that was with them that is more of an issue in the shorter of the two gibstrips, from what we might call the cross slide.
|Thread: Sharpening Machine Drills / Clarkson T&C Grinder|
Hi all, thanks so much for your help with this - looks like (as usual) I have been over thinking it! I will do something along the lines of your suggestions and come back and post pics when done.
I have purchased a Clarkson Tool & Cutter Grinder, for sharpening various tools in the workshop. It's in really nice condition and came with a Jones & Shipman universal vice, but sadly not an actual Clarkson universal Head.
I need to make some sort of indexable way of holding drill bits (and mill cutters), much like a spin indexer. However, I tend to buy taper or machine bits, as I prefer them. How would these be sharpened? My understanding is that holding the drill on the spiral is not good practice. I guess a block with a 1MT taper in it would work - but wouldn't the end of the drill, near to the grinding wheel, need supporting?
Along the lines of this I guess?
All and any thoughts very welcome.
|Thread: Wanted: Shaper|
I am looking for a shaper, ideally an Atlas 7, but open to others. Really I want one that is ready to go, I have enough projects!
I'm in Suffolk, but happy to travel within reason.
If you have anything you think might be of interest please drop me a private message.
Ps. Apologies if wanted ad aren't permissible and please delete.
|Thread: Drummond / Myford M Headstock Bearing|
Thanks for your replies. Yes, I have the additional bearing in. Would babbit be better than turning a new one from bronze?
I'll have another look tomorrow, I can hear the motor working harder than it was, so I am a bit nervous about tightening much more, but I didn't think I would get it better than 2 thou. Although I suppose it all depends a bit on how hard you are pulling / pushing to get a reading.
Apologies for igniting an old thread, but hoping I can get some advice.
I was turning some aluminium bronze last week and had a lovely finish, even with fairly heavy cuts. Decided to let everything cool, to take closer measurements and when I started up again I got a rotten finish. I decided that the headstock bearing must need adjustment, as I was never 100% happy with it. When I tried to tighten it found I couldn't get any sort of resistance, despite tightening it really quite hard (hammer on c-spanner).
I happen to have another old M laying around, so today I took out the front bearing in this and used it on the lathe, where I was indeed able to tighten the bearing, first so that I could just turn it by hand and then when the oiler was tightened down so that it turned with some slight resistance.
With this level of tightness I was able to get it so that a 9" wooden down in a large 3 jaw chuck could be pushed upwards so that the check moved up around 2 thou. This is cold.
Do the above settings seem about right? With the lathe be fine with another lathe's bearing in it?
|Thread: Lovely old surface gauage on ebay - how to make it!?!|
I was including postage in my head, I'll message them - worth a chance.
I need to dig out the chapter on worm gearing, but any suggestions on what pitch would be good for this?
Also if anyone is able to sort out my typo in the thread title I would really appreciate it!
Images here for ease and longevity.
I was frustrated to miss out on this small surface gauge that sold on ebay last night. I was rather unusual (at least to my eye) and also rather old by the look of it (111 years).
I'm thinking it would be a nice little project to make one, but the gearing used to fine tune the height is a new one for me. Presumably the tolerance between the gear teeth would need to be very tight, so as to not allow movement after setting. Any thoughts on making it?
Do you think the tightening screw on the side is just to hold the scribe point, or does it lock the gears, once the correct height is set?
A lovely little thing, but I didn't really want to pay £40 for it (I went up to £35) and no doubt the buyer is pleased with it too.
|Thread: Homemade Grinder Advice|
Thanks so much for your feedback, looks like I was on the right track the first time, so that's what I will go with.
I'm not happy with the results I'm getting freehand, so I will probably make the simple Harold Hall tool rest.
I'm coming back to this, as I need to get something in place to allow me to properly sharpen lathe tools and drill bits.
With fresh eyes and thoughts, I've started to wonder if building something is best use of my time and money. It maybe a good route, but I've been looking tonight at Clarkson Mk1 grinders for around £350/400. That might end up being £200 more, but obviously the time in building a grinder and then a rest could be put to other projects, and the motor on a Clarkson could easily be replaced with a solar powered DC unit.
I realise that a Clarkson is a very capable machine, so would hopefully grow with me and allow me, in time, to sharpen items that a home made setup couldn't dream of (e.g. reamers), but how easy is it to set it up to touch up a lathe tool? Do you end up spending hours on what should be a simple task, because it is so complex?
Also I don't have a surface grinder, so is it possible to use one of these for small surface grinding tasks?
All and any feedback very welcome and appreciated.
|Thread: L. H. Sparey Running Centre|
All my kit is imperial, so it's just more natural for me!
I should have said, if anyone would like a .pdf of this design please just let me know.
I have worked through L. H. Sparey's design and modified it for modern metric bearings. I have used slightly smaller ones than Jens Eirik, to maintain the same proportions as Sparey, but taken up the suggestion of an angular bearing at the front. This will be used on a 1MT lathe, so I didn't want it to become any bigger, already, sadly, some of the lovely proportions of Sparey's 2MT design have been lost.
One ideal I did have since doing the drawing is to put a small hole up the morse taper, so as to be able to knock the shaft out when it needs cleaning (obviously then re-turning the taper).
I would be interested in any thoughts you might have or suggestions.
|Thread: Lathe Vibration|
I ran the lathe yesterday, most of the day playing around and didn't really notice the vibration causing a problem. I was struggling to get a fine finish, but I think that's me needing to get a proper grinding set up so my finishing tools are less of a point and generally sharper. Plus the Myford/Drummond has a minimum fine feed of around 6 thou, which I have always found leaves ridges.
Yes, we have a battery bank, which gives us capacity once the sun goes down, but being my place of work I'm mainly there during the day. Yesterday, which was reasonably sunny, although late autumn low sun, the lathe was using 160w to tick over at 800rpm and 240w to take 10 thou cuts in 1/2 to 3/8" mild steel at the 6 tho feed at around 800/900 rpm. Using a die to cut a 3/8" BSW thread with the backgear required around 80w. The solar panels, were producing around 300w at the time I looked, so running the lathe and still charging the batteries. They have a theoretical power when new (they are ex-solar farm) of around 750w on the perfect spring day, at the perfect angle etc etc.
|Thread: Safety Switch/Circuit Design?|
Thanks so much for this - I will play around, but this looks like it should work well.
Thanks again - really appreciated and I will let you know how I get on.
Hmmmmmm guess I would need some sort off diode in there or else the motor would come on when the momentary switch was pressed.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.