Here is a list of all the postings Richard S2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: heat reflecting foil|
Seems a very good way to fit it retrospectively. I fitted the foil behind mine while installing my radiators. Bonded to the wall with PVA adhesive, then fitted the hanging brackets. Still very well bonded after 18 years and never need to paint or paper behind them. Glad I did it.
|Thread: Myford ML7 - Size of Mandrel Through Drilling?|
19/32" on my ML7 ......K5711.
|Thread: Drilling Small holes in Gunmetal|
I survived all the drilling and tapping of my gunmetal cylinder work without any drill or tap breakage. Sizes 7,8,10,12 and 14ba. Much of the drilling was using an old 1980s Black and Decker 2 speed drill on a stand. I'm an average metalwork hobbyist, so if I can do it, anyone can with patience and care following the prescribed tapping drill sizes and following all the advice mentioned above.
Additionally, I used a small vacuum with a clear tube to ensure as much cut swarf was removed from the holes regularly between each thread cutting action. Enjoy doing it.
|Thread: Aircraft General Discussion|
Quick check of the posts here showed this item not mentioned yet?. So I though those who may be interested would like to know about it- Flt Lt Gunn's Spit
BBC4 2100 Local in UK is supposed to have a piece on it.
|Thread: Minnie Traction Engine - Cylinder Drilling|
Nearly correct, The 2 separate holes at each end of the cylinder bore enter the respective steam port in the valve chest, but one hole enters the top and one at the bottom of the port i.e parallel holes. It keeps the holes away from the cover studs.
A further drawing on page 127 labelled as 'Rear End' will show the 2 parrallel drilled holes meeting up with the Port(s).
Edit- noticed you stated 5/64" for the steam way holes. Book states 3/32"and the procedure for drilling them is on 133.
Afraid I only have an image of the cylinder bore front end.
Edited By Richard S2 on 27/11/2018 14:02:33
|Thread: Polishing Castings|
Whatever the casting base metal is, the process is more or less the same. Depends whether it is a machined surface, or the rough casting that is to be polished. Machined/ part finished surface is finished as mentioned above.
Finish is a personal choice and can be for practical reasons. The finish on my TE Flywheel (cast iron) here-
.......is achieved with the process described above by Jason B (35 years ago). The high finish is to resist any corrosion due to my very slow progress on the project and proof that a good finish is more resistant.
There are some before and after examples in my album of rough to polished castings in bronze as well.
Patience is also a requisite, so keep at it and good luck.
Edited By Richard S2 on 30/10/2018 19:16:34
|Thread: Pickle for Cartridge Brass|
Not knowing how much they have oxidised or the condition,
I had good results from using combinations of mixtures of washing liquid, clean pea shingle, stainless steel cream cleaner and white wine vinegar to remove the inside corrosion/staining of my Avon Jet engine starter cartridges-
More to do though.
The exterior, I used the old formula T cut and elbow grease-
These need more internal cleaning for when I'm ready to convert their use as fuel tanks, but the worst is sorted.
|Thread: Ryobi 'String Trimmer/BrushCutter'|
I'm sure your model has similarities to the PBC3046YE Model I used to have. I never had an issue with the drive link, attachments etc, but I did find the clutch drum suffers with fast wear despite all moving parts being meticulously cleaned regularly.
The final problem I had was the loosening of the crankcase screws (3) coming loose and lost case compression. Up to that point, it was a good machine for 3 years.
As you're UK based, you may find this link handy should you need to obtain any parts-
|Thread: Naerok milling machine manual|
Here is a link to a previous topic on the Mill in question.
It has a link to an example of the basic Manual to save effort of posting a copy-
|Thread: Modded 1" Minnie Progress|
Forgot these bits. Made up a more correct style steering bush and added a tool tray-
Now finished all 4 Oil Boxes for the 3rd and 4th shafts. An exercise in silver soldering tiny hinges to the lids of the 1/4" sq boxes. R/H side 3rd shaft was a bit fiddly to make and fit around the standard bearing design and the additional Water Lifter steam valve-
I'm inclined to agree. Sold in units of the pound weight, or fractions thereof. Other possibilities are for replenishing Tinning Baths or for Roofing where strong Flashing joints are required.
Ron's example bar here looks to me as well over 1 lb weight.
|Thread: Dormer centre drill grind - effective or defective?|
Yep!, you've been sold a reject there it seems
|Thread: Metric threads on an ML7|
Have only BSF on mine (48-49 K5711) on the areas mentioned, with the exception of the machined face on the rear for Taper Turning Attachment which are 0BA
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
To me, it looks like the inner stud of the lower grouping is not equidistant to the 2 outer studs. It appears to be closer to the upper of the 2. If so, I have no idea why it is deliberate.
Is the arrangement the same on the other side?.
Edited By Richard S2 on 19/08/2018 16:26:47
Finished repairing an oil can I was given the other day. Thick with oily dust, leaks and broken off spout tip initially. Been looking for a decent one prior to this, but will be fine for my needs-
I.D'd the thread form as 1/8" Whitworth, so made a new tip and cap for it-
1920s Lucas no 40 1/4 pint Oiler now working perfectly with original leather washers and will be lubricating the old Myford. Only cost was a few hours of my time-
|Thread: Cleaning Lathe after use|
+ 1 for using magnets . Collects most of it and if careful, you can remove the magnet from the plastic bag and the dust falls into your preferred receptacle-
|Thread: Am I getting an irritable old git?|
Mmm, don't recall saying the bbc claimed to be a bastion of correctness, that was me encapsulating an opinion of their mission statement of their values and public purposes website pages- bbc ....and traditional expectation of the public (according to the general media over many years)
As for the bullet point of failing to check before publication, you've chosen to decide my opinion was fact. I remember when that was a job title in the hot metal business. I would deem it essential for a corporation etc to maintain a reputation of high standards to actually check it, even though you say it is not a requirement.
Also for Hopper's benefit, or acknowledgement, I've dropped loads of caps 'n' punctuation for you specially and my error was also missed where 'Proof Reader' should read Proofreader with a capital, as it is/was a job title.
Oh, and SOD, I am occasionally . Happy weekend and stay coool.
With reference to Mike's observation above, I expect a great bastion of correctness, namely the BBC, to be as near perfect as possible. No excuse for lack of 'Proof Reading' before publication. What seems to irritate me more is that their Correspondents and Political Editors seem unable to determine the correct use of 'Fewer'; and 'Less'.
Professional Websites of major companies have spelling mistakes. Always tempting to inform them of errors.
I recall that episode of 'Open All Hours' where Arkwright spelt 'Special' with an 'O' purely to attract some gullible individual into his Shop, so there are less irritating examples of errors and can even raise a chuckle.
|Thread: Workshop in this weather..?|
The '47' Winter film footage was Talking Pictures TV a while back. Not around that year, but the 62/63 winter remains in my memory.
'76' was a fair experience for me, being at Gatwick and dealing with the issues of reduced Aircraft Performance due to the higher temperatures towards the end of June into July. The BAC 1-11s had to carry Demin Water and pumps to the Channel Islands for use on the return flight. Restricted Take off Weights were imposed on HPR Dart Heralds even !. Looking back on it these days, it was really an enjoyable challenge. Love the heat.
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