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Member postings for not done it yet

Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: surface grinder
12/08/2021 08:12:35

Further to this mornings for sale offer,


There is a dedicated section for sales ads. Doesn’t hang around in a thread for evermore, doesn’t hijack other’s threads, doesn't disappear as soon as the next page comes up and is more likely to be seen by potential buyers.

Some parts do appear to have a similarity to the Eagle, but also to some others, as well.

The sales section can be found fairly low down on the right side of the page.

I’m guessing it rotates clockwise (Eagle runs anti-clockwise) and the wheel guard swings down for an exhaust pipe to be fitted? What a novel idea! Is yours 3 phase like the one shown? It most certainly seems as it is an ‘orphan’ amongst surface grinders.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
11/08/2021 19:17:24

C3 variant

This is the clearance within the bearing, not the inner race ID nor the outer race OD. Allowance needs to be sufficient for changes in temperature while operating.


Going by the number on the bearing outer race is best. No mistakes that way. Many ‘Imperial’ bearings are actually metric. Sensible fitment is with the numbered side visible when fitted.

per se

There should be clearance between the rotor and stator. No foreign bodies rolling about, either. Loose steel and magnetism is not a good combination in an electric motor.


​​​​​​​I would likely fit a shielded bearing and forget about further lubrication. They are not that much more expensive - and should last a long time if good quality named brands are purchased. I simply use a good quality Lithium based grease for nearly everything.

The application lists are invariably found on the internet. I recently found more than enough of an equivalent lubricant for my jack hammer for less than a fiver at my local ABC. Sellers advertising the same grade were asking £15 or more for the small amount required. They hyped it up as a special grease specifically for that purpose, of course.

If not sure, either seek local advice or just replace the bearing(s). Over £25 seems, to me, expensive. But I don’t often buy larger bearings myself and haven’t bought anything bigger than 16mm OD recently.

11/08/2021 16:57:53

Sounds awful, to me. Needs investigating to see what exactly is causing that apparent clicking sound.

Not sure why you might be needing to change both pulleys.

They will be ‘C’ spec bearings. I expect the bearing will be 20mm ID, or the shaft may well need cleaning up with abrasive (preferably before dismantling).

Edited By not done it yet on 11/08/2021 16:58:13

Thread: surface grinder
11/08/2021 11:09:45

The other option is to make your own or modify an existing machine tool ,

Nobby, in a previous thread, modified a Drummond shaper for use as a surface grinder.

I bought an Eagle and am pleased with it. I’m no expert surface grinder, but it does a good enough job for me. I was looking for a Superior but good ones seemed to be out of my price range.🙁

TBH, I think I would very likely prefer my Eagle to the Warco, except that the wheels are not mounted on separate centres (thus allowing easy wheel changes without balance issues). The Warco may have better attributes over mine, but as always, the devil is often in the fine detail - and I’ve not really looked for it.

Mine is an 18” x 8” machine - big enough to handle a small cylinder-block or -head. I’ve ground a morris minor deck on it.

It did (as Jason would likely home in on), of course, need transporting, painting and rebuilding. Mine was in good condition, but some may be in need of serious attention. Still worked out less than a quarter the cost of a new Warco machine (all in - without taking time into account).

Thread: Knurling tool
11/08/2021 10:32:47

As an aside.

I also note that my post where I said (very honestly) that RDG were getting a good ‘going over’ has been removed.

That was an accurate posting on my part. The truth. Truth is obviously something that some cannot live with. Just quietly removing the post indicates something to me. I wonder, now, whether the other post which was not too favourable to that company has been qietlly removed or “adjusted”.

Do we have a lover or mate of RDG among the moderators?

11/08/2021 10:17:12

Don’t you just luuurv you tube. Anyone can put up videos, give reviews, etc.

Lots do it as ‘influencers’ for some really dodgy products.

Let’s face it these people are just trying to earn loads of money for bulling-up a product.

It takes experience and skill/expertise to make good honest videos. It also takes careful analysis, to sort out the good from the bull excrement.

I might look at Steve's videos, but whether I agree with what (and how) he has done it, I mostly keep to myself (not always, mind).

The first thing I look for, when viewing you tube reviews, is whether the person is trying to promote a product - trying to be a slesperson; the second is the ability of the tuber - an example might be someone milling, using a Jacobs type chuck to do side-milling, which immediately relegates them to rank amateurs.

Thread: Steel Prices
10/08/2021 17:15:12
Posted by ChrisH on 10/08/2021 16:36:18:

Just bought some steel from M-Machine Metals. The Plate and Box that I wanted the prices were as per what was displayed on-line; however, I also wanted some 60x40x3 rectangular tube and that had gone up from £4.08/ft to £7.20/ft.

Queried it and it apparently correct, seemingly steel prices have gone through the roof in the last few months.

You have been warned!


You’ve only just noticed!?!

The recent cement shortage was put down to a 20k tonnes order by HS2. Simple demand exceeding supply.

Some new cars are in short supply due to a shortfall of chips for the vehicle management systems.

Supermarket shelves are devoid of some products or have only some variants/flavours.

‘Nuff said?

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
10/08/2021 17:05:46

…. I don't want to question the knowledge here, but is it really possible that a 20 thou oscillation is causing all of this?

You just did! The following have been mentioned and one, all or any permutation of them could be implicated.

Belt (unlikely), pulley, shaft, bearing(s), motor mounting. Motor alignment has been raised by yourself, too.

It is always difficult to diagnose exactly from a distance. I am expecting it to be the off-axis pulley and the motor mounting which are, together, setting a resonant oscillation which is making things worse. Likely to cause an early failure but equally might be blamed for poor finishes or short-lived cutters when operational difficulties arise.

Check out the Tacoma Narrows bridge failure back in 1940, on you tube, The Romans knew that marching soldiers should ‘break step’ while crossing bridges to avoid the risk of bridge collapse. Single phase motors can cause far too much noise if used in that base with that machine without extra bracing. All these are examples of unwanted frequency vibrations causing nuisance, damage or even destruction.



Edited By not done it yet on 10/08/2021 17:06:20

Thread: Sort of ... ???
10/08/2021 12:41:14
Posted by Mick B1 on 10/08/2021 11:21:52:

I guess what it does bring into focus is the truly vast practical superiority of internal combustion engines over solid-fuel external combustion.

And the backbreaking, disciplined, numbingly tedious manual labour many of the population would have to take on in order to return to that technology on any substantial scale.

There is no contest really, or even a comparison. Oil would have replaced coal after a few years and now LPG would likely be used as fuel. They would require a lot more water than fuel.🙂

BUT, either no masses of individual transport or horrendously accelerated use of fossil fuels (and hence climate change). At least internal combustion engines have reached 25-30% energy efficiency and (mostly) without the air pollution of a coal fire.

10/08/2021 09:21:09

Yes, for a Landrover with a dead engine, an electric conversion with a fork truck motor would be much a more sensible exercise. Retain the front axle drive, easily manage higher speeds, probably more range, etc, etc.

Novelty value 10/10. Useful value 1/10.

Thread: DIY Compression spring
10/08/2021 09:11:31

Tempering usually follows hardening? Different metallurgy of the wire would determine what treatment might be required, so the instructions from Hemingway may only be appropriate for the wires supplied with the kit.

I initially thought it was expensive, but it looks like a well designed piece of kit and does include a range of piano wire for starters.

If I needed to make compression springs, that piece of kit looks impressive but I’m not sure of the advantage over using a lathe (with a QCGB) to space the coils quickly and easily.

Thread: Getting Myford oiled up
10/08/2021 08:54:17

Dunno much about fymords, but I might expect two types of fittings at least. Low and high pressure. Then, there may be some grease and the rest oil. In fact, apparently there are some ‘no pressure’ fittings as well - the capillary/drip oilers and squirting oil on the ways. Nothing particularly difficult or arduous, but a necessary routine when in use.

If the machine has been fitted with the wrong type of lubricating fittings, at some time, it should be easy (and perhaps sensible) to remove the wrong ones and fit the correct items. I’m quite sure they would all be available from The Nipple Shop, which is where I have had good service in the past.

Think here that low pressure will likely be press-fit and high pressure will be screw-fit. I have oiled all the spring ball type with a pump-type Wesco oil can without recourse to a special high pressure oil gun.

The nozzles on most oil or grease guns can be interchanged as required, I expect. I have more grease guns and nozzles available than I will ever need. Most agricultural machines, for instance, tote the same nipple type across the whole machine, even though some nipples may be harder to access than others.

Thread: Lathe gears
09/08/2021 16:57:01

Drivers will be the smallest you can fit and driven will be the largest. Same principle applies whether the gears are on the same, or different, shafts.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
09/08/2021 12:25:15

What's the stator part of the case?

There are only 3 parts.🙂 The end caps hold the rotor clear of the stator.

Much more than that and the belt may have jumped off - except it looked so tight (too tight).  That most certainly would not help matters - particularly if there is a hardened section(s) where the belt has stood idle over the pulley(s).

Over-tight belts ruin bearings.  It is one reason why there are two belts to transmit the power, particularly with the small contact area on the small pulley.

I’m no expert regarding the sleeve, but at 80 thou deep for the keyway I would be making a sleeve as close to that as I could.  I would mill a keyway for a key of less than the width of the pulley/sleeve and shrink or loctite the sleeve in position.  I would, if possible make the keyway deeper and make a new key to suit. So much for the belt part (of belt and braces) I would then likely install a couple extra grub screws, as well, to make sure the sleeve would never move.

Edited By not done it yet on 09/08/2021 12:49:56

Thread: Change Gears Identification
09/08/2021 11:44:28

You need to 1) check if they have a profile giving approx location, 2) look at early posts, or 3) be lucky with a guess.

No. 2) solves the enigma, in this instance. First post - Canada.

Edited By not done it yet on 09/08/2021 11:45:19

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
09/08/2021 09:13:09

Without reading back up to 5 pages, what is the current motor shaft diameter, how much could you remove from the pulley for a sleeve? Would boring the pulley remove the current keyway? Is it a one horse power motor?

I found plenty of larger diameter twin sheave pulleys available but when I looked they were all of larger diameter. Not quite so important with variable speed motor control, I suppose (I overlooked that at the time).

If it is the motor/pulley at fault, the motor mounts may be ‘adequate’. Out-of-balance issues can exacerbate/exaggerate mounting shortcomings.

There are normally 4 long bolts holding both ends of the motor casing to the stator part of the case. Sometimes long bolts, sometimes studding with nuts at each end. Bearings are usually fairly easily removed from the end caps or warming (gently) assists, particularly if the end caps are aluminium. Generally need a bearing puller to remove the bearings from the motor shaft. Mark where everything fits to make rebuilding easier.

It is not difficult to fabricate a bearing puller for these types of motor - a piece of plate to slide over the shaft behind the bearing, a couple of suitable length bolts and another plate with two holes for the bolts and a central threaded hole for a further bolt to draw off the bearing.

The non-drive-end bearing is almost always the better of the two (if money saving). If bearings are dry, lubing may possibly work (but bearings are relatively common and cheap). Out of balance running could have destroyed the bearing. If changing bearing(s) don’t buy the cheapest. I nearly always go to my local stockist (ABC) for belts, bearings, etc.

For this application, fully sealed bearings would suffice, doing away with the need for further lubrication, but bearings with one side sealed would enable future lube, generally by grease gun. Sleeve bearings are unlikely, but would be lubed either by gun or a felt wick.

Edited By not done it yet on 09/08/2021 09:14:49

Thread: Recommended lathe outside protection?
09/08/2021 06:58:43

I personally wouldn’t recommend you get anywhere near flammable liquids. Try traffic film removers, etc.

Thread: Change Gears Identification
09/08/2021 06:41:08

The 46 tooth gear looks like the only odd one out on the ‘count by 4’ sequence?

Thread: new to North Shropshire
08/08/2021 17:48:03

Hi Terry,

2020 or 2021?

Better to make contact by PM - not advertise your phone number to the whole world.

Thread: Moving vice on mill table....
07/08/2021 12:23:29
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 06/08/2021 10:30:34:

You say bolts rather than studdiing? Are the bolts passing through the T-Nuts or bottoming on the nuts, preventing the t-nuts from being pulled tight. Always use studding, not bolts, because a bolt can break the table by jacking the slot.


Apart from the T-nuts not being pulled tight properly, are they too small, ie, not bearing fully across the top of the slot.


Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 06/08/2021 10:31:09

While noting that RB is a bit late to the party (see first reply), I often use a bolt - but only where appropriate or needs must. Sometimes with sufficient washers to ensure compliance, sometimes screwed in firmly (then backed off by a couple or three threads) then using TWO spanners (or spanner and allen key) to tighten the nut for clamping purposes.

Using only studs should avoid beginners breaking out T-slots.

All my home-made T-nuts are staked, to prevent any bolt or stud threading through. I like the idea of only tapping at full depth part way though the nut, but a better method might be to make a completely blind thread with a ground off plug tap?

Bought-in T-nuts are (generally) better than those made in the workshop because they are hardened (case- or through-hardened?), but cheaper ones are not always sized optimally - deep threads are wanted, but also sufficient swarf clearance below the nut and with flanks as wide as the machine slots permit. Old mart is right about making your own - and paricularly about the length of some of them. I bought in a holding-down kit from Chronos originally but have made quite a lot of extras (both mills have the same width slot but different depths).

I like to see both ends of the T-nut under the item being secured, or under it and any out-board posts - that way it should be virtually impossible to break out a T-slot, however poor the table might be (as long as it is flat, of course).

I sometimes have as many as 14 T-nuts in use on my Centec - not all in use (they cannot be removed from the power feed end.🙁 ). The machine only has two slots and the RT is often in place at the other end. My slot cleaning tool does not get much use, but the vacuum cleaner does a good job.

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