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Member postings for not done it yet

Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Square Headed Screw Supplier
27/06/2019 13:25:05

I, personally, don't take off the toolposts very often. Only the tool holders.

Not sure, now, whether we are discussing tool posts or holders.

Thread: Using a pillar drill for milling?
27/06/2019 13:17:28

Hi Chris,

My mills are old - 1960s. A centec 2B and a Raglan. The Centec can be used for either horizontal or vertical milling, so is quite a popular model among hobbyists, but certainly not a light machine.

Thread: Harden Boxford Main Spindle Key?
27/06/2019 13:05:44

I agree with the above. By the time you have hardened it and tempered it you might well be back to its supplied hardness. Better to check the keyways and make a stepped key, if necessary.

Thread: What to do,what to do.
27/06/2019 13:00:10

Posted by HasBean on 27/06/2019 12:00:46:


It's only a 4" job but is consistently accurate to within 0.03mm, more than good enough for my meagre skills blush & I've never noticed any issues with holding round stock.


Many three jaw self centering chucks can be just as accurate, or possibly better than that

Think about a 40mm aluminium ‘round’ bar (topical) that is only 39mm in one plane. When the two jaws are tight on the 40, the other two might still have 1mm to take up. Not good, when both pairs of jaws are mechanically interlocked!

I put one on my rotary table and have regretted it. There was one on my lathe, but I prefer the usual three jaw or the four jaw independent. The independent one probably gets most use.

The self centering 4 jaw is rather better than 0.03mm runout, but I would still not want to re-chuck an already machined item in it (which is where you might notice it?). I avoid using it for anything that may not be perfectly round - it might only be gripping on two jaws!

I would recommend the OP to spend his vouchers on something else (ER collet chuck, maybe).

Thread: automatic logout
27/06/2019 08:13:14

Makes the ”remember me” option a bit useless! Forum software is likely getting senile?

Recently stayed on for several days, but again back to probably only several minutes when inactive. PITA!

Thread: Do you need one of these in your life?
27/06/2019 08:04:25

I, like others, use a very large magnet in a plastic bucket to pick up ferrous swarf - doesn’t work too well on non-ferrous!

My wife would never pick up pins with a magnet - they can become magnetised and be more trouble than before - mostly because her pins are non-magnetic (either brass or stainless) as rusting steel pins can easily ruin a piece of lace on a pillow. She does not have a de-magnetiser because she would not use it.

Thread: Square Headed Screw Supplier
27/06/2019 07:52:42

Most will need turning at the holding end, so not a great deal of extra work to make them - and know they are good.

Socket headed screws (on a job like this) suck - they collect swarf! Only the spanner would get choked up with properly designed screws - and that is unlikely.

Heads need to be a little deeper than most fixings supplied these days so that the spanner will sit on the head without falling off - and that is likely a good reason for a square head.

I made half a dozen hex ones for a job - made from round, so finished with a flange below the head to stop a ring spanner sliding past the head. Took longer, but work just as well. Stevenson’s collet blocks came in very handy for that.

Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?
27/06/2019 07:31:11

Facing is the final check, but I don’t understand the importance of using 40mm aluminium - seems to me to be a waste of time, effort and material! That is a waste of 75% of material cf a 20mm piece! Half the cutting time with 20mm with exactly the same result. Less diameter than that would suffice, of course.

But possibly a waste of time if surface cutting something of large diameter in tougher material with a heavy feed while using a less than perfectly rigid set up, when an extended cutter in a large overhang tool holder on a less than perfectly rigid lathe will alter that setting anyway. Reports of difficulties with parting off makes that perfectly clear to anyone who thinks about it.

Thread: Electricity Supply
26/06/2019 12:19:01

What you need is a “Lightyear” Just been unveiled but obviously nowhere near in production. Promises to be the most economical car for cost of distance per unit of energy, if it ever gets off the ground as a going concern.

I am guessing the technology will be bought by a larger car manufacturer when their development costs become a limiting factor.

Fully Charged have just put up a video on it.

Thread: Mystery Bamford engine
26/06/2019 11:57:41

Likely as cheap to buy another (but always the risk of a dud). There will be lots on sale at the end of July, at the Cheffin’s vintage sale at Ely. Not the cheapest place to buy one, mind, depending on demand.

Thread: Using a pillar drill for milling?
26/06/2019 06:54:05

The one advantage of a pillar drill, that Nigel perhaps omitted, was that of height available between drill bit and table. Floor standing options will accept seriously large sized items, while bench mounted ones are ‘similar’ to most hobby milling machines.

My larger mill has a spindle nose to table distance of around 425mm (rather less if a Jacobs chuck is fitted), but that figure has been increased (from standard) by adding a 120mm riser block to my machine (check out the current ‘Centec’ thread). My smaller mill only has 213mm head space, so often needs an alternative holder to a jacobs chuck, may need to use an alternative to using a milling vise for workpiece holding - as well as choosing a stubby drill bit! ‘Horses for courses’ is the order of the day.

Edited to add that if I don’t have enough head space, other alternatives are a hand-held drill (perhaps on a drill stand) or a heavy duty drill with magnetic base

Edited By not done it yet on 26/06/2019 06:59:58

Thread: Mystery Bamford engine
26/06/2019 06:24:26

Yet another point, for longevity of a magneto, is to avoid generating into an open circuit - or even a too big spark gap. The voltages and energy have to be dissipated within the magneto coil which is not as robust as a normal, more modern, external coil such as used in the Kettering ignition system. Both points opening and spark plug gap are usually a few thousandths (5?) of an inch (~0.1mm) less than those utilised in a Kettering ignition system.

The condenser may be stressed or the coil insulation can break down.

Most magnetos can be reversed (perhaps not the earliest models). The contact breaker cam needs to be set in a suitable alternative position - to align the generation side with the points opening timing. Also, if the magneto has an impulse coupling, which winds up a spring before tripping and spinning the magneto at higher speed (only operational at cranking speeds), would need to be reversed, if set for the wrong direction of rotation.

Thread: Milling Machine Identification
25/06/2019 19:08:13

When you say ‘stud remover’ you mean a proper tool for removing studs? Not cutting the off and using those (mostly horrid) extractors. Welding on another nut is much preferable to those brittle extractors which, when they break, cause even more problems.

Thread: Using a Metal Cutting Disc on the SX2 Mill
24/06/2019 18:50:24

I know it will be quicker to cut this way, but how much time do you actually save? I suppose I do have the luxury/advantage of a nice steady power feed - and as hobbyists we are not usually in too much of a rush as to have to get a job done in double-quick time.smiley

I’m like as Nigel wrote - grinding and cutting is carried out remote to my machines, although there is one belt sander in the same area and I occasionally use abrasives to shine up parts.

I used to use a grit blaster in one garage and that got abrasive dust absolutely everywhere! Slitting saws only make swarf, not abrasive dust. Especially if flooded cooling is used.

I have used a 1mm cutting blade in my 115mm angle grinder, which was fixed into a cheap stand (from L*dl I think). I would now use the band saw (will I ever build a mechanical hacksaw along the lines of the ETW plans - like Mark Elam documented on the forum?).

For larger cutting jobs, the 200 or 225 angle grinder with cutting disc would be brought out.

Thread: Mill DRO - How many axis?
24/06/2019 16:02:43

My Centec has a 3 axis DRO on the long travel, cross travel and knee. It also has a separate read out for the quill. I don't use the quill for milling unless for an awkward access job - it usually only gets extended for drilling jobs.

The Raglan (no quill) is slowly getting separate readers on the three axes - but the full DRO system has so many extras that make the extra initial cost worthwhile.

Thread: Is it bad practice to lock my Myford lathe using the slow speed lever
24/06/2019 09:08:23

I must admit to doing that, but I am very careful. Only a thump with the palm of my hand - not a hammer or mallet - seen too many broken back-gear teeth to risk breaking mine! The gears should be strong enough to absorb full motor torque, but not an impulse force.

If the chuck is tighter, then a protective board over the ways and either a spanner on a chuck jaw, or a large hex key in the jaws, and a sharp clout with whatever it needs (with the lathe in slowest normal range speed). The inertia of the belt drive is always enough to loosen the chuck.

Some kind-hearted soul drilled a hole trhough the back end of the spindle to use a bar at that end (after using a pipe wrench on the spindle - grrrr!). Unfortunately, while a good idea, it is now usually sealed up with insulation tape to prevent any swarf falling close, or on, the gear train. A previous owner was thoughtful, but not thoughtful enough!

Thread: Centec raising block
24/06/2019 08:38:18
Posted by Brian H on 23/06/2019 22:18:35:

Thanks for the replies Dave an Gary, what I was after was the total height of the machine, to check if one would fit in my workshop.


You needed to take heed of my reply. All the main measurements are shown. Both the 2A and 2B models (which, unsurprisingly, are different).

23/06/2019 21:32:07

Try this thread:


I think my riser block is 120mm. Any height, within reason, can be chosen.

Dimensions don’t take into account head-space needed for drawbar removal.

Thread: Using a pillar drill for milling?
23/06/2019 16:43:11

Another few words to add to thaiguzzi: It ain’t worth it.

Thread: Using a Metal Cutting Disc on the SX2 Mill
23/06/2019 12:55:44

A slitting saw has the advantage of not spreading hot sparks and abrasive dust around and over the machine/work area!

Used as a cutter grinder for splitting off cast iron piston rings before now, but avoided if possible.

Were you using a power feed?

Got the job done, mind.

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