Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Simple endmill sharpening device (end cutting edges only)|
While Harold has some very interesting and effective solutions to many problems, I might ask of any comments on another sharpening system Eccentic's Acute system? Any good? I know it might look expensive, and challenging to make, to some .... but does it work?
|Thread: Clack Valves|
Might country of origin (manufacture) and a lack of quality control (both by manufacturer and vendor) have a lot to do with shoddy goods? I do notice that many items produced in China are imported in bulk, then simply sold on at a well elevated price....
I once worked for a well known company that sourced many electonic parts from China. Any 'out of spec' goods were simply returned - the whole lot, not just the faulty ones!. The suppliers were then much more careful, and did not send shoddy products. They were still tested for conformity on arrival. Testing was cheaper than unit failures later (most likely after installation).
One thought - are the stud ends at the same dimensions as at the root
ie, exact same pattern.
Another is to make the gasket as a larger sheet and trim to size after fixing.
Edited By not done it yet on 18/09/2016 18:10:59
Lay gasket on face and then fit the studs? Standard A4 paper is about 0.1mm, so about the thickness of 5 sheets of paper?
I've no suggestions for an alternative. Try another internet source might be a possibility - epay quality is not always good quality.
What size are we talking here? Small, for me, is less than 50mm
|Thread: Gate Progress RF45|
Most problems with removing collet chucks are because the drawbar has been overtightened.
And another common problem is fitting a cold tapered tool tight into a warm machine taper.
The wedge removal should not damage a good quality morse taper with thread - the MT should be hard but tough. Also, the thread should be in a recessed pocket, so out of the way, and the outer rim of the threaded hole should be relieved so any 'spreading' will not affect the internal taper.
Tanged MTs do not grip on the tang, but do not turn in normal usage for axial thrust, but radial forces generally require a drawnbar - not so much to 'tighten' the grip, but sufficient to prevent loosening under those intermittent cutting forces and the rotating radial forces.
|Thread: Spindle? deflection|
Headstock to bed(?) deflection does not seem promising, but the rest need qualifying. How long was this bar, its diameter, and material? All bars will deflect given sufficient force.
|Thread: Cleaning threads|
Add a thicker washer or washers, so avoiding those threads?
Make a pinch collar for the section of plain shaft and hold the shaft still with an appropriate spanner, wrench, etc?
Is it the nut, or the shaft threads that are galled/stretched/otherwise damaged? No point in holding one, if the other is at fault.
|Thread: Slot Drill problems|
Not what we taught at tech college,
Quite right, but I very much doubt you were using the set up as described in the opening post to this thread.
Horses for courses, or make appropriate concessions to the ideal. The cutter, the machine and the actual process methodology need to to be considered in context. Cutters will only cut to their actual size in a good tool holder in a perfectly rigid set up. And, yes, not all cutters are perfect. There will always be a tolerance, no matter what combination of machine, cutter and operator.
|Thread: silver solder|
Do check its content. It may contain Cadmium, which is outlawed these days. It would not stop you using it, but be aware that Cd is particularly toxic.
|Thread: DRO reader for Warco scales|
I just checked mine. One cell was dead (a reader) but the main readout is still operating OK. Probably the readout was physically turned off, but not the reader (on the scale). Not checked to see if the readout works with good cells in the scales, but Rik is likely on the money.
I bought mine on the back of a local model eng who only used the scales with separate readouts (cheaper option for him, but a little less sensitive). They do seem to be bomb proof, generally. Have you contacted Warco? They are very helpful, I have found.
|Thread: Clack Valves|
My 2'' clack not works reasonably on my water pump.
On a more serious note, have you tried lapping the seat of any of these? The job should only take about 5 minutes after making the tool, either with one of the balls or a new (possibly more superior) one.
|Thread: steady behind lathe|
No mention of lathe bed size? I might just use a fixed steady, with tailstock at the end of the bed, and that would mean not a lot hanging out the back end For a 'one off'. I might tap in some aluminium strip at the rear of the spindle for extra security, proceed steadily and see how it goes. How long is your lathe?
|Thread: Green behind the ears|
Perhaps getting a mini vertical slide for your mini lathe might be a good idea for getting into projects? Depends on how one interprets the 'little' in your post, I suppose.
It's not another 'separate' purchase, only an 'addition' to the lathe, so may not 'need' executive approval. Look on it as 'another lathe tool'?
|Thread: Stepper drive for a Lathe Cross Slide. Issue No.246|
Ooh-er! I'm in trouble, my 2 axis dro for my lathe only has x and y axes.
Anyone seen a 2 axis dro with z axis plus one other?
|Thread: Diesel in a paraffin blow lamp?|
years gone by there were at least 3 different grades of kero,...
I run my ollie 90 on straight kero after about a minute (or two at max) on petrol.. It drinks petrol at a rapid rate, so kero is far less costly. If only light duty, I might add about 20% petrol to the kero (so about 15%). If doing heavy work it might get about 10% diesel in the mix, which by all accounts, approximates quite well to TVO (Tractor Vapourising Oil). It just depends on what was in the tank, as for usual running I simply add more kero.That is 3 1/2:1:1/2 approx. My other tractors don't seem to have quite such good manifold heat transfer as the 90.
We also used to run an Ariel 500 on TVO, after starting on a carb full of petrol. Pinked like h*ll on heavy load! The 200cc Villiers engine ran on 50/50 petrol/TVO + oil, but 'spidered'
the plug occasionally, if not run hard. The Mercette was always run on petrol.
I would still not be messing around with more volatile fuels in a blow lamp, mind!
|Thread: Strange metal|
RJ may well be onthe right track. Green colour flagged it up for me as possibly a copper alloy.
According to goggle it should work harden - and its magnetic properties are interesting. Reaction with nitric acid is used to identify, or discern from
stainless steel or steel.
Edited By not done it yet on 11/09/2016 08:15:30
|Thread: Diesel in a paraffin blow lamp?|
Fractionation columns separate oil into basically molecule sizes, obviuslywith some degree of overlap. This generally means the more carbon atoms ithe string, or ring, the higher the boiling point of that component.
In addition refineries also 'crack' the longer chains into shorter, more volatile componets. It all depends on the type of feed and what fractions are desired at the output.
Higher RMM (Relative Molecular Mass) components tend to have lubricatig properties (think engine oil, here). Kerosene/paraffin fractions have little lubricity (petrol about nil), so these should c not be usedvwhere lubricity is required (diesel injection pumps and diesel injectors).
It is well known that a diesel engie with some kerosene will burn cleaner than the heavier fraction. It is ilegal to do so, of course, but MOT emissions failures have returned with kero in the filter, and passed.
Petrol in diesel clearly reduces the lubricity and may damage the close tolerance pumping and injection components. In addition, diesel fuel containing petrol will burn much closer to the injector tip and potentially overheat and damage it. Expensive job, having nozzles repaced! I would not like to leave more than about 5% contamination for long. 10% tops. The higher the injection pressure, the worse the problem gets, so common
ail diesels are more susceptible to damage.
There is also the issue of sulphur content of these fuels. Low sulphur means low lubricity, hence some older engines may be incompatible with modern low sulphur fuel, needing an additive to avoid damage to the injection equipment. DERV is defiitely low sulphur these days.
A much more interesting topic than Darwin awards, where blow lamps are concerned.
Someone help us! (God, if you are religious).
These things were carefully designed for use with a particular fuel. The preheating section was arranged to evaporate a fuel of particular volatility; the nozzle jet was also sized appropriately for the fuel.
They can be dangerous enough in inexperienced hands, without further tampering....
Edited By not done it yet on 10/09/2016 07:31:20
|Thread: security Wheel bolts|
Double boost has a vid on this problem. May be a nut, not a bolt.
Better than most vids on the subject.
There are people who offer a mobile service for removal.
Don't ditch your security bolts. Having to get one removed is far cheaper than buying a complete set of new wheels!
If five stud/bolt wheels, then think a bit and torque that particular fixing to the low side of spec (not recommended on 3 bolt/stud wheels! ). Also do make use of copper-ease or similar.
|Thread: 3 pole or 4 pole for a reversing switch?|
Apart from thread cutting, there may be occasions when one might prefer to cut on the 'other' side. These lathes do have a morse taper in the spindle, so do not always require a screw-on chuck for operation?
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