By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for not done it yet

Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What are these off
09/08/2019 21:21:08

For DP, add 2 to tooth count and divide by OD. They are 16 DP

Thread: Karcher pressure washer
09/08/2019 21:06:00
Posted by Nick Clarke 3 on 09/08/2019 20:45:04:

Mine doesn't get used much (just look at the state of my car for confirmation!) but if it does not spray splitting the Lance in two and using the pricker on the jet itself will usually bring it back to life.

Just a suggestion before you get too far into the entrails if your machine.

That will show the following signs (or is it symptoms?).

Motor will start initially to raise the pressure. Motor should then stop on the pressure switch and fail to restart for some time (dependent on the state of the valves).

Not the same as the OP is experiencing.

Thread: Safety Glasses
09/08/2019 17:20:18
,Posted by Dick H on 09/08/2019 15:31:07:

... sorry, just trying to be helpful.


No need to be sorry. I was just interested in the cost and then rambled on with what I do.

At 12 - 15 Euro mark, they are likely very good value IF the prescription fits. I’m a tight wad when it comes to paying out money. I don’t skimp on ppe but costs can vary widely. I like to reimburse a relative or friend, for a pack of safety specs, or a visor, etc, to take advantage of industrial rates.

Thread: Is your spindle bore large enough?
09/08/2019 15:14:49
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 09/08/2019 14:58:06:

My Craftsman lathe has a 38mm bore and roller bearings and seems quite happy about it.

Also, the larger bore does come in handy from time to time.

All things being equal ,I would go for the bigger bore.

Yes, Larry, but the prices cannot be equal for similar quality! I tend to agree that a 38mm bore is better - as long as the extra cost can be justified (without a reduction in quality) or a reduction of quality is acceptable. Purchasers choice.

Thread: Safety Glasses
09/08/2019 15:09:28

Question might be: How many, who require bifocals, have ‘normal’ strength prescriptions. One simple lens per eye is easy. Combining 2 different prescriptions for each eye is rather hopeful for them being anything like simple.

Please enlighten us on what you consider as ‘not too much money’ (compared to a simple prescription).

I used to have toughened lenses for laboratory work, but prefer over-glasses (cheap to replace when scratched) for where hot metal and abrasive grinding grit might be airborne.

A long time ago, I had plastic safety prescription glasses supplied by my employer. They would soon fall off due to the heat! Hope they are better these days.

Thread: Is your spindle bore large enough?
09/08/2019 14:49:16

Posted by coggy on 09/08/2019 10:21:21:


Plus is the 38mm bore lathe offered at the expense of there being less material around the bore on the pulleys, cogs etc. that the bore passes through. As most of these lathes seem to be only available once imported actually getting to see and compare 26mm and 38mm bore lathes is hard.

Has anyone ever compared the internals of these lathes with the different bore sizes. Is a 38mm weaker than a 26mm ?

I would suggest that the extra price hike is due to the extra mass of metal required around the bore on the pulleys, cogs, etc. Every machining operation will entail more surface to be machined and machining costs are part of the product cost.

While a 50% increase in area machined, the volume of material being removed from solid items is over twice the amount for a 38mm hole over a 26mm one.. It all costs extra money as well as larger castings in the first place.

I would not expect either size to be weaker than necessary - if they are designed properly. Smaller, within reason, is always going to be cheaper. That applies to bearings, too. Then there may be larger gears required - more teeth for the same ratios? The price does not come down as the size increases.

Only when normal sized items are miniaturised, do prices start to rise again in the opposite direction, but now due to design problems and higher precision.

One might expect that a lathe designed around a 26mm hole might be about the optimum size for minimum production costs, but maybe 16mm would be cheaper - myfords and drummonds were cheap in their day, so perhaps they were right and the 26mm ‘standard’ has been adopted for reasons other than lowest cost?

Thread: Harrison M300 or M250 pulley/belts problem
09/08/2019 13:38:59

If you are banging on any bearings it is standard practice to use a soft headed mallet or a soft metal drift, not a steel hammer directly on the shaft. All to do with impulse force.

Edited By not done it yet on 09/08/2019 13:39:38

09/08/2019 12:11:27
Posted by Michael Cross 4 on 09/08/2019 12:01:22:
Posted by Ian Parkin on 09/08/2019 11:53:27:

If the cap head bolt is your only problem then whip it out replace belt refit job done

It's a pretty critical bolt and awkward to get to and re-tighten. I'd rather leave it alone if possible.

I would go with Ian’s suggestion. It will not be the only bolt holding the thing together!

Thread: Karcher pressure washer
09/08/2019 12:05:02

Mine gave up recently. The two of the three non-return valves were jammed open. There were lumps of dried scale, which had presumably slowly grown bigger over the years.

Carefully cleaned them out (the valves are fairly frail) with a pick and away it went. New valves are not too expensive and I think many pressure washers are discarded rather than being repaired. Plastic pumping heads are likely less worthy of repair - so much for the throw-away society of the present day!

The older pumping heads were far better than those on most modern cheap sets. They will likely withstand hot water . Mine has a metal pumping head - most are plastic these days.

Usual precursor to valve failure is that the pump restarts too regularly - the pressure switch holds it off at full pressure, but back-leakage causes regular motor restarts - not so good for a capacitor motor when every few seconds. Eventually the valves just don’t even allow pressure to be attained.

Bazyle is right with his warning. Keep it vertical (upside down) when removing the pumping head!

Soaking in warm/hot citric acid solution may be enough to dissolve the lumps, or at least a preventative maintenance job at regular intervals, if located in a hard water area.

Thread: Lathe - dead centre wont reach the workpiece
09/08/2019 07:49:41

Can the QCTP be moved across the top slide? Turning the top slide by 90 degrees may be necessary.

Your tool geometry appears less than optimal - the cutter would be far more rigid if it were over the centre line of the cross slide. Every bit of cutter overhang causes extra flexing under load.

JB has several options. Turning between centres might be another option to gain space at the headstock end

Extending the tail stock centre, while a possibility, is not particularly recommended - any extra extension cannot be seen as aiding accuracy - but needs must...

The most obvious move would be to start with a longer workpiece and not machine right to the chuck? Same with turning between centres.

Another alternative is to make/buy and fit a ‘lantern type’ single-tool holder in place of the QCTP. QCTPs are good, but not perfect in all scenarios.

Thread: First Lathe
08/08/2019 20:48:01


Screwed chucks have been used successfully for umpteen decades. Drummond, myford, Raglan and many others, I suspect. The only provisos are that you do not cut in reverse or brake the chuck/workpiece.

Other options are generally either more expensive (better) or cheaper (slower to change).

ER32 typically only go to 20mm. Most common lathes will accept larger diameter round bar (Drummond/Myford excepted?)

Speed range is generally not a problem with rolling bearings. Sliding ones are rather limited (to 1200rpm for long life). Larger bearings are expensive to replace!

Metric is not a real problem unless you wish to do lots of thread-cutting. The advantage of single-pointing on the lathe is the hugely wide choice of threads which can be cut. In difficult materials I sometimes single-point roughly and finish with a die. Cutting on the lathe generally helps for alignment of the thread with the axis of the part/job.

A QCGB is a luxury, but one I would no longer do without. Plenty of cutting feed-rate selection available, apart from not needing to change (as many) change-wheels.

For swing, consider gap beds if the larger diameters are not long.

As you may have gathered, I like my Raglan 5”. I waited until I found a very good example and will likely never change it. However, there are several new models from numerous suppliers which would fit the bill. I am sure of that. Mine came fairly well kitted out for a LOT less than any equivalent new item.

PM me if you would like to read of the bargain I found. They are out there, but not always when you want it!

08/08/2019 18:42:57
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/08/2019 18:06:44:
Posted by not done it yet on 08/08/2019 10:06:34:


Note that myford quote swing as more than twice centre height),



Which is not unreasonable

It should be true of many lathes [depending upon the bed profile]


Are all the Chinese mini lathes the same? I only mentioned it because Raglan only quoted centre height (already over 5&rdquo and not total swing available. The instruction manual indicates 3 3/8th” gap between the shears. The swing could obviously be calculated from that but I thought it unnecessary. Still do.

Thread: warco vmc milling machine
08/08/2019 18:30:35

I am with John re the improved finish! My Centec mill came with long travel power feed - well worth it - and I am always thinking of fitting power to the y axis (and even the Raglan mill feeds - although the Raglan is very light to operate).

Thread: Dam Solution?
08/08/2019 18:17:38

The dam owners had to buy the coal seams below the dam, to prevent it being removed!

As an aside, similarly, there are about a milion(?) tonnes of coal that was never extracted below Bolsover Castle - although I don’t think anyone had to buy those seams.

Each seam was extracted by modern machinery that cut very little extra, with the roof collapsing in very close behind. I am(was!) 1.75m tall and could just stoop low enough (not to have to crawl) along the ~250m coal face supported by hydraulic supports a few metres behind the face (just sufficient space for the cutting machine to pass by) - that was when I was fit! Several of our visiting group (of about twenty) had to crawl on hands and knees along the whole face! I think we were about a mile and a half from the winding shaft and had a high speed ride from the face back to the shaft on a conveyor belt. A day out to remember.

08/08/2019 10:37:47
Posted by S.D.L. on 07/08/2019 16:27:18:
Posted by DMB on 07/08/2019 15:41:25:

Lots of things have been done by cheapskate methods, including that dam. Long term, they should rebuild it properly from the ground up in massive rocks which cannot be dissolved/washed away like mud.Fill gaps with concrete, job done and 'everlasting.'

Where are Dams built like this not a construction i have heard of?



Not quite.

There are possible geological deficiencies below and around the dam. - like coal mining activities. Solid structures tend to crack and fail catastrophically. The surrounding geology is the first thing they looked at, I’m sure.


Your sentence should have been two? Rutland Water dam, constructed in the 1970s, is of a puddled clay construction. What they should, perhaps, have done years ago was to incorporate some form of hydro-generation to take water off at a much lower level....smiley

Thread: Chuck out of true
08/08/2019 10:16:16

Mad mike,

Go back to the earlier posts (even the first) by Grotto and you will see there is an apparent step change when the chuck suddenly disliked being threaded into position. That is why most attention has been directed towards the threads and registers.

The thread has deviated somewhat since its beginnings.

Edited By not done it yet on 08/08/2019 10:18:24

Thread: First Lathe
08/08/2019 10:06:34

Well set out Dave. About my thoughts, above. I just added a cheaper, probably better alternative to the 254. Larger swing (at least an extra 1/4”, at 10 1/4” +. Note that myford quote swing as more than twice centre height), slightly larger spindle bore, possible (but not so likely) metric lead screw, larger motor and an extra 4” between centres among other similarities.

Add a 3 phase motor with VFD, plus DROs and most lathes are basically ‘metricated”. Certainly far better value than any 254 sale items I have seen, but it doesn’t appear that Nathan wants to save dosh (looking at the ‘wish list’ and budget) or looking at specs quite as low as these?

08/08/2019 08:28:22


Also misses that 10” minimum swing. How many 254 machines had camlok spindles? Not many, I would have guessed, but as always I may be wrong!

If that lathe were to be an option, a good Raglan 5” might be an alternative (but only with a L-100 spindle nose?). About as rare, I would think! But a good Raglan 5” might cost a third, or less, than a 254!

Making tight specifications, as a requirement, invites an expensive price tag - but it is only a ‘wish list’, after all.

Thread: Chuck out of true
06/08/2019 22:58:00

As Pete, 3 thous is adequate for most work - all turning when you don’t need to remove, and then replace, the job in the chuck.

Thread: Finished my beam engine.
06/08/2019 22:52:23

Like IJ,nothing wrong with the metalwork.

Even the base would look good with the edges routed and then it stained/painted.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Advertise With Us
Eccentric Engineering
TRANSWAVE Converters
Eccentric July 5 2018
Meridienne Sept 2019
Allendale Electronics
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest