Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Has anyone watched this Girl|
Which means you are implying that he is not telling the truth? I ignore all ‘influencers’ whenever and wherever possible.
Emma of the ‘spare room workshop’ was honest with an appraisal of a ban good product and has never been invited to rate any more of their freebies. I’m not surprised. One needs to consider what they don’t say in their reviews - and what they don’t measure, too.
I remember one who praised a stirling or flame licker engine - can’t remember which - but a very few weeks later did a series on improvements to the same engine kit because of all the faults he found (none mentioned in his review, of course). He basically rebuilt it as it should have been when he received it.🙂
|Thread: Chester DB7 speed control board? NVR switch doesn't lock|
after it's warmed up a bit, the switch stays locked.
After what? The switch, the weather or the motor?
Have you tried it without a belt, if it has one? That may determine if it is the switch or the motor (or the weather).
|Thread: Cenetc 2A Horizontal Arbor Mill|
If it is a single phase motor, it is likely struggling to get to speed in top gear, particularly if the oil is thick and cold.
My 2B, with a one horse motor, would not start in high gear until warmed up. I changed it to a 3 phase motor and no problem since. The 2A may well have a 3/4 HP motor (particularly if it is original).
|Thread: Centec 2a|
Those two links look like the same information? One cheap, one expensive!
Does the machine have a vertical head?
Edited By not done it yet on 19/01/2020 17:51:10
|Thread: Bevel gears.|
Another that might be worth checking out?
HPC Gears. **LINK**
Edited By not done it yet on 19/01/2020 17:25:53
|Thread: How to soften steel|
What, I wonder, would the return postage, to the US, be?
Edited By not done it yet on 19/01/2020 16:52:12
|Thread: Laser Cutting Aluminium.|
No profile showing.
Did you save it before leaving that area? Did you make it private or public?
|Thread: How to soften steel|
But likely an out-of-balance situation, particularly at highest speeds.
|Thread: Silver Soldering Brass|
I’ve used our oxycon for brazing. Only for small jobs. There are 10 lpm versions available - mine is only a 5 lpm version). They are great for lampwork (just soda glass, not pyrex type) but limited for jobs needing more heat with a high enough temperature.
One also needs to take into account that the output is about 98% oxygen (with noble gases making up most of the rest) but only around 88%, at best, at full flow. That extra dilution does affect flame temperature.
Edited to add that we’ve had our oxycon for several years. Not used that much but we just switch it on. These things are used by people who require oxygen on a day to day basis and are very reliable. Mine was a reconditioned item, no longer to be used for medical purposes
Edited By not done it yet on 18/01/2020 22:34:07
|Thread: Electric welder at Lidl|
Dave, are they not indicating the cool-down period as 15 minutes - before doing another 90 seconds of welding, then another overload trip and 15 minute wait? All the same, it would be a little less than 6 minutes welding every hour for thick material. Of course, that will be at the ‘standard testing temperature’? You get what you pay for, I guess.
|Thread: Product Descriptions (Up to scratch?)|
Lathes are defined primarily by centre height (or, alternatively, swing over bed) and effective length (distance between centres).
No point in quoting that spec if the lathe cannot hold a workpiece of that radius (or diameter) or length. JB points out the need for centre drilling(s) being a bit more of a challenge for that maximum length....
|Thread: Lathes as bling!|
My JAP engines were made in Prestwick! My Japanese engines were made by Honda.
|Thread: How to soften steel|
Even though your 1/2’ cutters may ‘just’ squeeze into a 12.5mm gap, you may find the centre height is too high. I think you may be needing to grind off a mm or so from those cutters.
You need to investigate that - little point in altering the tool holders if it is more sensible to be reducing the cutters.
It is a bit like altering the spindle to take a single backplate or altering the backplate to fit the spindle? One is sensible, the other may make the lathe unsuitable for the rest of the backplates used, for ever and a day!
Duncan, don’t forget he has doubled the power of his motor.🙂. But I know what you mean....
|Thread: Too ambitious or achievable?|
Recondition a Briggs & Stratton?😀
|Thread: Normalizing cold rolled bright mild steel|
Presumably, one might just as well start with hot rolled or a known higher carbon steel if one is going to heat cycle it?
|Thread: Lathes as bling!|
When photography was one of my hobbies (40+ years ago), a couple or three decent transparencies from a 36 roll of film was typical (even good) if the frame was not posed. With negatives, one could enlarge just part of the photo to improve the final positive, so rather more forgiving than transparencies.
With ten grands worth of kit these days, one should be able to literally take thousands of frames, discard most, photoshop a few and finish the day with one or two or even a few memorable images.
I ‘messed up’ one piece today, with my mill. Not important as I’ll likely get it right next time - tomorrow, Sunday, perhaps next week. With wildlife there may not be another photo opportunity. Rather different scenarios, I would suggest.
I agree with Neil, but that does not always apply. My SLR was still a manual wind-on camera, back then. The different lenses were as important as the camera body - and then there was the film processing and printing to do later...
|Thread: Mobile Phone|
Try it - and if it works, OK. If it doesn’t work, look for a different service provider? Might be your particular phone, mind. I don’t use a mobile much, but have never needed to restart it when I’ve used it. My wife uses her phone far more than me and she never turns it off - unless the battery runs out of charge.
|Thread: Drilling holes using pillar drill - work wobbling|
Hi Bill, not a good idea if the hole is more than a few mm deep.🙂
|Thread: Myford super 7|
I agree a Raglan is a better lathe than a Myford (apart from the 254s), but it's not what I would call an expensive machine either. Dean, Smith and Grace come to mind!
Agreed, but we are talking hobby lathes? There were not so many working class who could afford a new Raglan back seventy years ago. New Myfords were mostly all they could afford and there were still huge numbers of adepts and similar types still in regular use doing a good job - as well as the much better Drummonds of the pre-war period.
Just remember the 254 was myfords attempt to copy the Raglan, but some 25 years after the Raglan came to the market - it should have been a better lathe by then! Apart from the lubed gearbox, I don’t think they advanced that much - even if at all.
These days every bolt hole is drilled at the same time - Howard will confirm that Perkins even fitted as many as 32(?) bolts in a single operation to fit cylinder heads. We are talking here of lathes made over half a century ago by the then current methods of manufacture - and some are still far better than the current batch of chirpy chirpy cheep cheap lathes imported from afar.
I am quite happy to work within the limitations of my older lathe. The last Raglan offering is a huge improvement on the first models. Does the myford 254 have an automatic adjustable carriage trip, for instance, that will reproducibly cut to within 0.1mm of the shoulder?
But all irrelevant. These lathes are British manufacturing history and were still improved copies of older designs or clones of American lathes, even back then.
S-gtr is very much in the minority, to have a Pratt and Witney chuck. Most have Pratt Burnerd (still a good chuck). But with only 2 1/2 thous run out, I would be happy with that. I swapped the jaw positions until I achieved minimum run-out with my old 3 jaw chucks, then marked the slot for the first jaw - and left it at that.
If without tail stock support, the lathe itself could be the source of the poor finish - as well as the other reasons offered. Wear in the slides and bearings can make getting a good finish a challenge, but all possible to overcome - as demonstrated by some superb examples of models made with such examples.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.