Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tom Senior|
You need to measure the OD, bore and the thickness of the three parts.
Or four parts if a shim washer is required/involved. I needed to make extra/different shims when I repaired my jack hammer. Not really anything to worry about, though.
|Thread: RAF to give up flying planes.|
More than very doubtful. The pilots that fly Typhoons will already be very accomplished professionals. Pilots do not progress from Chipmunks to fast jets in one step! I expect that all plane types, with two seater trainer variants available, will progress via that route.
Virtually every one starts with a trainer and then ‘converts’ to more sophisticated kit.
|Thread: Multimeter recommendations|
Fluke every time, particularly if a serious piece of kit (above the ‘entry’ range) is involved.
I have a few meters knocking around (three with battery fitted). The Fluke is my favourite but is not always at hand for routine measurements. Cheap and cheerful is maybe good enough for most but quality costs….
|Thread: LPG Gas jet sizing|
Seeking advice from the supplier(s), after accurately describing the problem experienced, would be my course of action.
|Thread: Cast iron cylinders|
Either way, it is generally accepted that wearing surfaces are of different metals? So cast iron on cast iron is to be avoided.
I would expect the items to be honed, so those surface ‘irregularities’ should be removed.
Your choice of brass or bronze, presumably comes down to cost and longevity?
|Thread: RAF to give up flying planes.|
Ahh, so the title is thoroughly misleading? Racing drivers get plenty of practice with simulators, before getting to drive on the track - but they have not stopped driving the race cars, shirley?
|Thread: Read the small print|
The next time we visit my wife’s daughter in Scotland, should I ring the AA and request a recovery, to home - a distance of some 490 miles - just because I say “I don’t feel well”? I don’t think so.
|Thread: Hello Chuck|
What else do you expect on twitface?
Keyed ones are usually kitted out permanently with centre drills and countersink and the keyless for twist drills on the lathe . The makita cordless screwdriver and bodge 1/2” corded drills are keyless (10mm and 13?mm) , the SDS is - rather obviously - SDS.
I only use smaller jacobs-type on my little mill - for maximising headspace, when the ER 32 collet chuck is too big. Could use the ER16 on occasions, but I rarely do.
Can you provide a more precise description of the “softer brown materials”?
Do you count headstock chucks (when used with vertical slide)? Mine are TOS and Pratt Burnerd - but I’ve never used my vertical slide.
|Thread: Electric motor speed|
Think routers here? Even Dremels.
|Thread: Urgent - opinions of lathe I am going to view/buy|
All I know is that boxfords are good lathes when in good condition.
The first thing I noted was the grease on the gears. I wondered how the gears and studs were lubricated - grease blocks the lube holes? That might mean something, but may not. Grease also collects trash which might traverse the spindle - not good.
As most have said, condition is everything. Possibly worth a trip, with someone who knows what to look for.
I agree with what Clive said except only after a careful inspection of all its faults. Clive said “If I were at all interested I'd put in an offer considerably below the asking price.”
Three hours travelling, to check it over, could save a huge amount of aggravation (and cost). I looked at several lathes (Raglan 5&rdquo before I found one that fitted my criteria at a good price. I go expecting to walk away with my money in my pocket. There is always another better one at the same or better cost in the future.
Thread cutting, back gear operating, powered cross feed, QCGB, slotted cross slide, good bearings throughout and slideways that do not tighten up at the extremes (gibs are often left loose to hide those troubles) or with huge backlash in the feed screws in the central ‘most worn’ section. are just some of the things I look for.
Dud motors, damaged speed setting pulleys are other minor troubles to look for. Damaged or worn beds are mega-expensive to put right, even if they can be fixed.
If going to look at it, note down all the faults you can find and work out the cost of rectification. These things can soon add up to more than buying a more expensive machine in good working condition. If a dud motor, cost in a three phase replacement with VFD. Single phase motors are a poor choice unless there is a clutch somewhere in the drive.
|Thread: Empty Drill Boxes|
Give the fellow a strip of timber batten with instructions on how to drill suitably spaced blind holes in the timber with each drill size (to a suitable depth), then screw the batten to the wall (with spacers, if necessary) is my suggestion!
Obviously inappropriate if the drills are to reside in a toolbox.
Not all HSS drills are of the same quality - perhaps his are just not ‘HSS enough’. Or, again, perhaps his mechanical ineptitude extends to how to use the drills? Fast and furious, while not actually cutting (much) is the single most wearing problem while drilling.
|Thread: Threading myth .... busted!|
Sine of thirty degrees is 0.5. Depth of cut is (almost) half the distance the compound is advanced. Close enough for me as I am a hobbyist and check the fit of the components, rather than make assumptions on fit.
I do go straight in at times - and carbide thread cutters are a simple cut until the cutter flanks rub. Cross slide DROs make things easier for both metric or imperial. I just do as I please, but definitely lean towards setting over for large diameter coarse threads. There is no backlash problem arising, if the cut is predominantly in one direction, so those with fairly worn lathes might like to consider that, too.
Depth of cut v depth of cut might also be a factor with low-powered machines - those with low power lathes may need to take almost ‘rubbing’ cuts as the depth of the thread increases if cutting on both sides rsther than one side only. That could be quite important for those with DC motors running at low speeds - particularly on those machines that have been prone to popping the control circuit boards.
|Thread: Whirlpool cooker|
Is your cooker a fan assisted oven only? Our main oven has other elements including a grill (which needs replacing). Even the smaller top grill oven has top and bottom elements as well as the overhead radiant grill.
I often use a halogen oven and microwave and my wife likes to use one of the slow cookers (one for casseroles and one for chrissie puddings). Then there is the toaster and soup-maker….
|Thread: Using a ginding setup on a lathe|
Good advice re covering things up.
But preferably not cloth - which, if caght up by whatever is rotating in the lathe, can be dangerous.
|Thread: Newman Motor Star To Delta?|
Quite. 42.3% down, on power (to be exact) but at exactly the same speed (at the same Hz).
|Thread: 9/32 hex steel bar|
more like 3000
Metres, mm, or nuts?
Gwr-fasteners do 20 nuts for just over £3. I would expect 3000 would come at a much reduced rate?
Clearly(?) someone, somewhere, makes them! It might be worth checking the dimensions, mind - if you want exactly 0.281” across the flats….
|Thread: Cleaning my lathe|
A cheap baking tray, slid under the bed, can catch a lot of swarf, but my lathe will never look ‘as good as new’ while I own it! It’s there to get used, not to be just a display item.🙂
|Thread: Using a ginding setup on a lathe|
Not sure that grinding a drill is normal lathe-work? Or are you intending to turn counterbored drills?
Lots use a die-grinder, attached to the cross slide. No real problem as long as machinery is adequately protected from abrasive dust.
Edited By not done it yet on 02/09/2021 11:36:24
|Thread: What are the potential hazards of using E10 fuel on classic car seals|
Apparently, removing the ethanol (which is easy - but at a cost and with safety implications for the unwary) reduces the octane rating, so buying the 5% ethanol option looks to be necessary if going that route unless the classic has an engine that was built for lower octane fuels.
If removing the ethanol it may come down to a choice of losing 5% from a higher priced fuel or 10% from the more common E-10.
|Thread: Overheated Drill|
Haha, when I bought my Kango 950 it worked - but not for long. The previous owner - a right cowboy bodger - had tack-welded in a 1/4” mild steel bolt as the main crank-pin. So likely he bought it as scrap and sold it at auction as working. I was glad I hadn’t paid too much for it.🙂 Cost me over £15 for two needle roller bearings and a tube of lube (plus my time to make a proper crank-pin) to repair it.
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