Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lubrication quetion for Harrison L5A|
Too thin oil may contribute, depending on the seal type. Other factors may be you overfilling, there may be too much bearing play, the seal may be damaged
(or worn), or the seal bearing point on the spindle may be damaged (or worn).
There must be provision for draining the headstock and usually some form of level device. Doubtless the drain will be at the lowest level of the box and the upper level device may be a dip stick or level plug. Both should be fairly easy to find by observation.
Do tell us the seal type. Is it a lip seal, felt seal, or other? Lip seals require a good sealing contact point, but can be displaced slightly to use a different sealing point on the shaft. Felt seals usually have a thrower to prevent direct and continual immersion of the seal in oil. Some seals do not have any seal, per se, but actually 'screw' the thrown oil back towards the gearbox.
The last, but not least, reason for leakage may be a blocked breather, causing a pressure difference between the interior and exterior of the headstock.
Edited By not done it yet on 25/07/2016 06:41:23
|Thread: VFD questions|
BPlease loopraking using the VFD is a good attribute but do make sure it is appropriate for your application.
If it is required for 'fast breaking', the resistor power may be important, too. Beware something may 'brake' if you 'break' too quickly. Or is that the other way round?
|Thread: tapping drill|
About twice the thread depth less than the fixing bolts. What bolts/cap screws are you using? 1.5'' is 38mm.
|Thread: Air compressor is losing power.|
ie. the air is escaping out through there all the time.
Shirley not that difficult to ascertain if that is the case? Feel with back of hand, a cup of water to check for bubbles, soap solution?
Which side of the trap is the pressure guage? Might give a clue.
|Thread: Chuck backplate|
An early mistake, when making a back plate was that of measuring while 'warm'. A spot on measurement, and cut carefully to size, ended with a loose fit when cool. Lesson learned. Luckily it was for a four faw chuck, so perhaps not quite so important.... as long as the fasteners do not come loose.
|Thread: Cable size for Oxford welder|
At idle, the current used will be only transformer losses -although these welders were not designed for maximum efficiency at idle! Think here of the different amounts of heat produced when welding! If the welder had to dissipate the arcing current when idle it would soon melt!
There will be tables on the net giving maximum power and maximum distances for the cable run. I assume you really mean 16mm^2 conductors. That is a large cable, easily able to transmit a few kW over that distance. The tails on your meter are likely that size - good for 100A in that use.
Look at the rating plate on the welder. I doubt it will be more than 6kW and likely only 4 1/2. And that would be flat out. Voltage drop for the welder would only mean a slightly reduced welding current/voltage requiring a higher setting on the machine. Look at the consumer unit rating - that will have a supply rating and will likely include a 45A cooker breaker.
Common sense should prevail with only the welder in use as a high current userat the time, of course.
|Thread: Single Phase Fractional Horse Power Motors|
I very much doubt Platinum is used for contacts these days, other than for high quality installations. Mostly Palladium at best, I would think. For small mass produced motors the contacts are likely a thin coating or surface alloyed with the precious metal. Old magneto contacts were of Pt, but replaceable contact points for the Kettering ignition system have been throw-away items for a long time....
Same with CATs. Early ones contained quite a worthwhile amount of Pt (very popular pikey targets) but now there is far less, most of the (reduced amount of) precious metal in them is Pd.
|Thread: Bee Keeping|
Eradicate all wild bees and nests eradicated? So speaketh a true environmentalist? Banning beekeepers might be a better proposal!
|Thread: Hemingway Compact Powered Hacksaw|
Every powered hacksaw I have used has cut more than just over a half inch square in an hour! (see Ady 1's post above) Or maybe he cut several slices off in that time?
I'm surprised nobody has suggested the blade must have been put in back to front or upside down! Maybe using a slitting saw in a horizontal mill might be an option?
|Thread: vertical slide|
Personally I cannot see any particular advantage in attaching a vertical slide to a top slide, bu I can foresee some disadvantage. Replacing the top slide is, IMO, the way to go.
Disadvantages are more stress on the machine, and less rigidity. Some machines might benefit with depth of cut control by the top slide, but I'm not for buying that - depth of cut is just on e of the minor nuisances of using this method of milling, as I see it, and fine setting by the long travel can be facilitated by engaging power feed and turning the chuck by hand.
|Thread: Bee Keeping|
you just said goodbye to £120 or more.
No beekeeper worth his/her salt would try to make that sort of money from a swarm.
May have been a prime swarm but old queen. May have been a cast, but would have been much smaller than a prime. Not many primes would be 40k, either!
Temperament may be vile, and last but not least they have no health certificate, although most are healthy. They need to be run on for several weeks to be sure they are of good temperament, health, etc
|Thread: Beginner needs help with Colchester Bantam Lathe|
All the start winding does is push the rotor in the same direction every time, and provide extra power to overcome the starting load
There is bound to be a slight (at least) difference in speed at which the start windings are turned off for forward or reverse. The rotor is accelerating at the time, so the resulting force on the switch will be different, dependent on which direction of travel. Physics fact!
I still think that fault is caused by the run winding being out of circuit in that direction
If that were the case, please explain how the machine works OK at lower speed settings
Edited By not done it yet on 21/07/2016 07:14:59
No disrespect to Ketan, but ask somebody at axminster, too? Nothing like getting both sides of the story before making any fair comparison?
And do remember that concentrating on the single main difference may mean missing a plethora of minor points. PRICE is not always a good indicator. SERVICE after the sale might easily be a deciding factor. Only you can ascertain which is the better machine/deal after you weigh up all the pros and cons for your particular situation.
Edited By not done it yet on 21/07/2016 06:58:56
|Thread: Beginner needs help with Colchester Bantam Lathe|
There is a clear click when a bench grinder runs down and the start winding contacts remake. Quite possibly the OP might hear this continual clicking in and out for the start windings if one's ear can be positioned close enough to the motor?
It may be that the start winding contact springs are aged or worn? Changing them might effect a cure, but there is always the risk that the start windings may not be disconnected at full speed in the reverse direction and result in a motor burn out.
The cross-over points for 2 and 4 pole motors and required starting torques are discussed in this link, and may be of help (but I doubt it !
I don't know enough about motors, but I do know I prefer 4 pole to 2 pole varieties!
|Thread: warco lathe quick change|
Do think carefully before going for a set. You may consider a set as good value, but the question a new purchaser may not be able to answer definitively is 'Do you need every one of those holders?'.
I made that mistake, it being that I will likely never use the knurling attachment as I will be making the 'scissor' type which is far superior to the 'push' type. That one holder meant the set was no better value than spending far less, initially, and obtaining (or making) more standard holder's later. Other possibilities are that you may already have a parting off tool or would, in hindsight, prefer a different sized blade. Just a couple things; there may be others.
|Thread: I'm looking for a supplyer|
It makes not a jot of difference whether measured in Imperial or metric units. Everything on this planet can be measured in either units!
|Thread: Bee Keeping|
how are bees affected by Glycophosphates?
You are referring to glyphosate (monsanto 'round-up'? That is a herbicide, not an insecticide. I'm not aware of the effects on bees, if anything seriously deleterious, but it is bad news when used in large quantities on GM crops supplied by monanto as 'round-up ready'.
The idea is that weeds can be controlled without affecting the crop. Unfortunately some weeds are becoming a huge nuisance because they, too, are either already resistant to glyphosate or are becoming more so - requiring ever greater doses of the herbicide. Not good, because glphosate has greatly increased the incidence of de
formed offspring in mammals (humans in Argentina and also farm animals that are fed on those crops).
Bad news as the levels of glyphosate in the food chain is caus
ing concern for hum
an health. They may well have shot themselves in the foot as this herbicide has been in use for decades and is now showing up these nasty effects because of their GM activities and increased use on food crops. Attention, too, for dessicating crops such as OilSeed Rape, prior to combining. No not good news all round for monsanto!
Edited By not done it yet on 17/07/2016 18:49:52
|Thread: Ideal Beginners Lathe?|
Although I have never used a milling attachment (had a milling machine), I agree with Ajohnw. Shame perhaps, as I will be selling my CL500 shortly, but I am giving my honest response. Had it twenty years and never really used the milling part. Replaced with a Raglan LJ. Now replaced my old mill with more 'old metal' which, IMO, was far better than buying new or second hand chinese.
Edited By not done it yet on 17/07/2016 14:11:32
|Thread: New three jaw chuck|
My recommendation? Get your Pratt Burnerd repaired or overhauled. Or think of more money to replace with an item ofequivalent quality.
|Thread: Bee Keeping|
I have kept bees for about 15 years. Although some seem to have continual problems with the art/craft, beekeeping is quite simple, even though some seem to think otherwise.
With regard to wasps - they are a beneficial insects, and nests should not be destroyed unless they are a nuisance or pose a health risk. Wasps consume large quantities of unwanted pests, grubs, etc, are good scavengers and generally help to balance the environment at bug level.
Bumbles are one of many bee species. They are, like wasps, are 'eusocial', which means they live communally but the colony dies out at the end of their active season. Mated queens overwinter buried in north facing banks, etc (so they don't wake up too early in the spring due to unseasonal sunny days warming them up). Hibernating queen wasps will survive atlery low temperatures - think here freezer temps!
Bumbles will not normally use the same nesting for a few years, so once used any bumble nests put out for th
em should be thoroughly cleaned, preferably left as a mouse home, before using in another position in the garden.
There are loads of solitary bees and wasps out there which are useful polinators (a
s well as flies, etc). An earlier poster was spot on re reduced insect populations. Of late, particularly down to the temporarily banned neonicotinoid systemic insecticides. They kill any species, not just the real 'target' pests. I remember, as a child (and later as a motorcyclist) that on warm summer nights it was like snow flurry, with moths and other insects illuminated by the vehicle lighting. It has worsened much more in latter years due to these new ''improved'' insecticides. IMO, they should be banned permanently, particularly as we do not know if they are truthfully safe, even to humans.
Edited By not done it yet on 17/07/2016 13:54:18
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