Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Drummond m|
An advert in the “wanted” ads would be more appropriate, than a thread which will hang around for eternity - and likely disappear from the forum top page view in a day.
|Thread: What spray do you use to stop your tools from rusting?|
At the moment, I am using approx 0.75 units of leccy per day. Mainly to dehumidify my workshop. I reckon these sprays and what-have-you will likely exceed the cost of the leccy used for my whole workshop?
|Thread: Lathe Drilling|
I would be checking entry and exit sizes for though holes drilled to a reasonable depth, concentricity of the exit hole (obviously a problem). First step might be to check the lathe is turning parallel, both with an unsupported bar first and then with tailstock support.
|Thread: Smart & Brown Questions|
Welcome. There are lots of experts on the forum. I’m not one of them.
Supplying your lathe motor with a 3 phase supply can be achieved in a several ways - have a three phase supply from the grid, a static (or rotary) converter or a variable frequency drive (VFD). There are other options.
The better way, IMO, is to fit a VFD. They plug into the usual single phase socket, provide lots of programming options, do not use (much) leccy while idle, are generally reliable - and reasonably inexpensive.
The one thing that most VFD installations do not like is switching between the VFD and motor. That may be why the 3 phase starter has been removed. Soft start, current protection, etc can be set, as desired, by the user. Even the forward reverse should not be used while the motor is running (ie only selected when the VFD is not supplying power to the motor. The VFD would have a directional selection, anyway.
|Thread: Wanted - Someone to make some screws|
If they are, indeed, gun smithing screws, surely the place to get them would be from a gunsmith? Dave at Whittlesey would likely sell you a couple of each. Probably slotted - they do not get damaged if treated properly with the appropriate turn-screw.
Then there is Elderkins at Spalding. Plenty of others, too. I’m thinking they might be for ‘scope mounts for the second example, although a bit big, maybe?
|Thread: A workholding question.|
Fit a locating dowel through the disc and into the underlying back plate? Remove dowel before boring to size?
The dowel would not only fix the part in relation to the rear support but also provide a datum point for any rotation required?
Just a simple part of a jig.
Edited By not done it yet on 25/10/2021 10:19:27
|Thread: Sewage dumping|
If you used several criteria, to decide on your vote, you simply wouldn’t - or be left with the candidate that only has a single item on their agenda.
|Thread: Rust Protection|
Agreed Dave. While describing what works for us also needs an approximate location. Those in the north of Scotland may need more insulation than we do further south. My ceiling 100mm insulation is shortly going to get another 100mm of rock-wool/glass fibre insulation and a further topping of old ply boards insulated with 25mm EPS.
Some on here may be in locations that are quite dry and warm, so don’t need the same degree of insulation. My workshop also has the heating/insulation advantage of actually being inside another structure.
Chris is not so far from you, presumably. Humidity in my workshop is rarely much over 70% and often down around 60% - according to my cheap RH meter.
|Thread: Sewage dumping|
Possibly shareholders? Don’t know, but possible - or possibly benefitting from lobbyists?
In the future, there will be a lot of down-stair loos that will back up and flood sewage into the property. If I was not living at the ‘top of the hill’, I would only install a pumped down-stairs loo, so that it fed into the soil pipe much higher than the usual loo. Most manhole covers are not sealed (ie bolted down) so flooding soon gets contaminated with sewage
Most sinks, basins and washing/dishwashing machines will only be OK until the out-door flooding exceeds 90cm, before feeding sewage back into the property.
The situation will only get worse over the next few years.
|Thread: Ferrous, facing, HSS tool geometry|
Left or right handed spade/shovel users? I’m right handed, but use both with left hand at the bottom of the shaft. I use my left foot on the spade. So which am I? Left or right handed?
I pull a bow or catapult with my left hand holding the article and my right holding the projectile. Not that good at it as my left eye is master. The only thing I definitely do left handed is shooting a gun - left shoulder, left master eye. I can manage most bolt action rifles from my left shoulder (it seems cack-handed trying to operate the bolt with my left hand on a left-handed air rifle) but it was peculiar when I have used an auto shotgun - it throwing spent cases across me!
Apart from some semi-auto shotguns, I don’t think I have ever seen a completely left handed shotgun - the opening levers were always pushed to the right, even if the stock and triggers were set up for left handed. Ejection always seems to be biased to the right.
Then there are left and right handed cups and mugs….
There is not too much need for ‘experimenting’ - it has all been done time after time and more times. Stick to the accepted norms is my advice.
|Thread: Hi all, newbie with first lathe, rare one i think.|
Lubricants have improved tremendously since that lathe was built. Most modern oils of the correct viscosity are likely far superior to the original spec. No particular need for a hydraulic oil but many much more highly stressed machines use a universal hydraulic oil for gearbox and hydraulics. Thinking here of agricultural applications.
|Thread: A workholding question.|
Through holes are easily permanently filled?
|Thread: Myford ml7 "parting off"and "max working size"|
Not a myford. I part off under power using a rear toolpost fitted with a parting-off blade that gets a quick scrub on the belt sander to sharpen it when required. Lathe has a threaded spindle. No problems.
Edited By not done it yet on 22/10/2021 22:47:03
Remember, too that lathes tend, if anything, to cut a concave face (if convex, at all, the resultant part will ‘wobble’ when stood on a flat surface). If your lathe is cutting too dished, the parting tool could possibly be ‘following the groove’ as the cut gets deeper, necessitating making the parting kerf a bit wider.
|Thread: Lathe query.|
Power OFF, use a multi meter, of course - as per Howard.
I say ‘Pull the fuse as well’. I put the fuse in my pocket, if apppropriate. Most circuits are protected/controlled by MCBs these days - you don’t want anyone to inadvertently switch one back on!
And if you happen to be checking mains connections while energised, please use a multimeter which is safe for those operations - many are not and some that are ‘reasonably’ safe may not be, when in inexperienced hands.
One lad, I remember, finished up on the wrong side of the room, but luckily without the crucible he was rushing to remove from a laboratory kiln at 1200C! Another was an electrician who was thrown off a gantry some 15m high but luckily landed on the side of a heap of not-too-hot clinker which cushioned his fall.
Back of hand towards possible contact points is always a good idea, along with the other hand in your pocket - less chance of grabbing hold of a DC supply or getting a shock across your ticker.
|Thread: James Webb Telescope unpacked|
The unpacking or the deployment? That is a lot of money in one basket!
|Thread: Hello from East Northamptonshire|
I was going to say that the area covers from Stamford in the north to Rushden in the south. Peterborough is not so much out of the area, as well.
|Thread: Help with a broken Sieg Super X3|
Question, then, is which is faulty - board, motor. Or maybe both. Don’t just assume - you could easily be wrong.
Board can be checked by connecting an incandescent light bulb across the load terminals instead of the motor - the bulb should illuminate and dim/brighten as the motor control knob position is varied.
Motor can be checked by applying 12V across its terminals - it should motor slowly if a brushed motor. Not sure about a brushless type.
Dunno whether there are internal fuses or not. Dunno what the response is to protection circuit failures.
Seems like one or both is/are in need of replacement/repair.
It is a common operating fault of over-loading the system. These machines are only hobby machines, not for heavy commercial use.
Drilling large holes is achieved by step drilling - a pilot is recommended, along with sharp drills.
Personally, I would be hard pressed to entertain this type of drive - lathe or mill. But many have run these drives for many years without any problem. I think it is often a case of operator expecting more than the machine is capable of.
I can easily tell when my drives are reaching their limit. Possibly not so with the electronic drives?
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