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Member postings for not done it yet

Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Lathe Identification
16/02/2019 17:58:42

Too late to advise against buying? Reads like it is his already. It is likely very cheap, but doesn’t look too cheerful at the moment.

Thread: New coffee maker - disgusting taste!
16/02/2019 17:50:17

Are these youngsters, weak wimps or do they only buy can openers which are only non-descript chinese metal pressings held together with a pop rivet? My wife finds it difficult to wind the tin opener, but I’ve never had a FB version that would not open - some cheap trashy copies might be difficult.

Same as their corned beef. I cannot remember the last time I had any difficulty opening one of them. Sooo eeesy if you remove the label (or most of it) before winding the ‘key’.

16/02/2019 13:15:39
Posted by Bazyle on 16/02/2019 10:15:03:

It's amazing that Camp is still around in this fast moving world of brand names being bought, sold and adulterated. Does it still taste the same (I didn't like it 50 years ago and haven't tried since). HP source was Americanised about 30 years ago and has never been the same quality.

Perhaps similar, but when they changed to plastic bottles they hiked the price by reducing the solids by quite a lot (near 25%?) with a corresponding increase in water content. I used to drink it, up until then. It was only of about 4% coffee content, before they spoilt it. It will no longer store as long, once the bottle is opened, I expect.

Thread: Crabtree B15 3 phase Stop / Start switch
16/02/2019 12:59:02

Sometimes it is simpler, easier and more cost effective to use a standard three pin plug and socket.

Thread: Tubal Cain : 0.5mm holes : spade point bit needed ? why ?
16/02/2019 12:55:00

His is of a similar ‘time warp’ to the ETW era plans, where all(?) were centred around hand tools - and a lathe as the only main mechanical aid required/expected. Perhaps an electric drill, of some description, might be added, but most certainly not a milling machine.

Thread: Denford Viceroy 280 motor and inverter
14/02/2019 11:37:06

Fitting the replacement motor should not present a problem.

Likely the same frame and foot or perhaps slightly smaller. Just unbolt the dead one and fit the new motor in place.

May need a different length belt. Beware of the shaft size or you may find you need to alter, or change, you current pulley.

I expect your present single phase motor has a simple fault - capacitor or start winding switch fault.

Thread: Sources of 1" bore involute gear cutters..?
14/02/2019 11:26:14

For lathe change wheels, just buy the cheapest option. 15 quid a cutter soon buys a 22mm arbor!

As Andrew, if you need real precision. Making your own you could cut for the true DP or MOD tooth count - remembering that the sets of 8 cutters are actually only supposedly accurate for the minimum tooth count for each cutter.

I suspect the RDG items are much like some of the ones offered from China, but at an elevated cost. There may, or may not, be some extra quality control checks on UK-sourced chinese items.

I bought a set of 8 cutters from China for about £55. Cheap and cheerful, but do be careful that you get what you expect - 14 1/2 or 20 degree PA (some pics, for 14 1/2 degree sets actually use a 20 degree pic). Supplied by ‘bang good’ would likely be the bottom of the pile, regarding quality, so I would avoid them (no quality control and worse than useless customer service).

Edited By not done it yet on 14/02/2019 11:27:42

14/02/2019 07:49:19

Thanks Mike. I had got it in my head, I suppose, that the feed should be advanced while on the actual back stroke, not as one changes direction - but I suppose the advancement will be fast enough to complete before the next forward stroke begins (when you have a rhythm going, you don’t want to hesitate at the start of each strokesmiley).

I think I will incorporate a robust adjustable stop for the back stroke so the switch is protected from the momentum of the handle and my arm.smiley A hardish rubber stop (door stop?) seems to be a good starting point, plus a timing circuit to delay the next trip - to avoid any double feed advancements.

Thread: Upgrade from SC3 lathe
13/02/2019 15:39:40

Posted by Ian Thomson 2 on 13/02/2019 06:21:40:

The Raglan is one on my shortlist. What appeared to be a good example came up on ebay a few weeks ago and not too far from me. Unfortunately the seller would not let me go and look at it before the bidding ended. It may have been a good lathe, but I wasn't going to risk it.

I generally keep an eye on Raglans as they arise on epay etc. There was one 5”, recently on epay, that had no changewheels or gear train and an almost empty apron. It was a BIN reduced, steadily, from £650 down to £300. Glad you didn’t get that one! Seller was a right bent epayer as he knew it was very incomplete!

Apparently a good looking 5“ was sold recently as a Colchester, or similar. Buyer either got a good bargain (at £300 including an original taper turning accessory, amongst other tooling), or would have been mightily surprised!

I would recommend the 5” with QCGB over a Little John any day. The LJ (with QCGB) was a good lathe but the 5” is far superior in several ways.

My QCGB 5” came with two fair quality chucks (TOSS), both steadies and faceplate (along with sundry other tooling) - and was already fitted with a 230V three phase motor and VFD.

Thread: How many threads please?
12/02/2019 19:51:30

A couple of practical points, as I see it.

One cannot just hang a lubricator on a pipe - better for the lubricator to be suppported and a vibration proof/flexible pipe arrangement to connect the two.

Screwing in anything to a curved surface requires either a tapered thread or a boss (as per PK,) and sealing the connection with a washer (if a parallel thread). A curved surface would only support a locknut at two points.

Thread: bunging up hole in CI
12/02/2019 19:38:45

Seems like a simple case for a screw thread and some high temperature sealant - loctite or similar.

Enlarged and a cone with a coned screw - a bit like vehicle brake bleeds - might be a suitable. Any filler over the recessed item would suffice to cover the remaining surface before surface coating. Depends a lot on the depth/ space available/etc.

Thread: Single to 3 phase invertor and smart meters
12/02/2019 14:30:21
Posted by Samsaranda on 11/02/2019 19:37:07:

In respect of generated solar being exported back to the grid I was under the impression that all systems generating 3.68 kw or less were subject to the deemed 50% rule, was unaware that some were subject to export metering. As a point of interest we have an energy monitor on our meter feed, this has a transmitter clamped around the live feed from the meter and displays the flow in watts on a portable unit indoors. Since having the solar panels fitted there is now two way flow on the live feed because exported power now travels the opposite way to incoming power, unfortunately as the meter is unable to detect the direction of electron flow it just records a figure of flow irrespective of direction. It is therefore not possible to know whether we are importing or exporting to the grid so I have told the wife that to be efficient we need the number of watts displayed to be as low as possible, ideally zero, that means when the sun is shining and we are generating we are using what is generated and conversely when we are drawing from the grid the figure is as low as possible. When the tumble dryer is switched on the reading rockets up, although it is an energy + appliance it uses about 4.2 kw, by far the biggest consumer of energy that we have, we have always operated an energy consumption of if we need it we use it, the solar panels mean that with a little thought and rescheduling we can use as much as possible of the solar generated energy which of course is free and we get paid for it.

Dave W

If you are referring to your supply meter logging import and export as import, you are getting hammered every time you export!

Thread: releasing tapers
12/02/2019 14:24:03


I can understand that might be true, but the dome would not actually need to be much more than a button - the wedge should only act vertically downwards at the centre line of the spindle. Therefore the wedge slot could be much further down the spindle than it actually is? Likely a simpler manufacturing process for the spindl, too.

Seems to me that maybe the driving taper came after the adoption of a tang drive, as more powerful machines entered the market?

12/02/2019 14:11:32
Posted by Mike Crossfield on 12/02/2019 12:33:07:
Posted by ChrisH on 10/02/2019 22:41:04

Also, did you go down the stepper motor/drive belt to the feed handle route, and if so, could you put some details and/or piccs on here please? Would be very interested in following suite.


If it’s of any interest I modified my Adept 2 by adding a stepper motor on an extension to the feed shaft. Some simple digital electronics gives a range of feed increments, triggered by a micro switch positioned so that it’s actuated by the operating handle.



Can you indicate your micro switch arrangement, please, to overcome advancement on both forward and back strokes.

Thread: releasing tapers
11/02/2019 19:24:55


I think that is what I alluded to about a page ago?

Thread: Single to 3 phase invertor and smart meters
11/02/2019 19:16:26

Believe me, if the suppliers were not getting a good deal, they would never have so gleefully accepted the arbitrary figure of 50% export. Many systems placed on houses, where both occupants were at work all day long (maximum PV output) would be using far less than 50% of the system output.

That probably changed a bit when immersuns, solics, etc came on the market and diverted excess generated power to domestic hot water heating, but they have still not complained re the 50/50 split, so are quietly raking in profits of buying cheap and selling at full retail price! Not a bad mark up? About 400%? Out of one house and used in the next, so no grid costs? Diverters are not a good way to use high grade energy, but better than being scammed by the leccy retailers.

Smart meters will lead to increased prices. They already have and are still not worth it. It is the customers who are paying for the suppliers to screw them further, later!

I call my wife ‘switch on and never switch off’ or ‘turn it but never turn it down’. Describes her quite succinctly!

Thread: Scary Technology
11/02/2019 15:48:18
Posted by XD 351 on 11/02/2019 15:00:47:

Mankind will be exterminated by its own inventions ..

One fault with the facial recognition is if the head is covered by something like a mask or helmet it doesn’t work !

Until they are programmed to exterminate any with such masks.....

Edited By not done it yet on 11/02/2019 15:49:04

Thread: releasing tapers
11/02/2019 08:26:08

Look guys, I know the drive should be friction between the tapers, but answer me this: Why was a tang fitted, when a dome (or even flat surface) would have sufficed as a point of action for the wedge? Why was the drill only able to be inserted in that orientaion.

In other words, was the tang a poor design or was it there as a back up tell-tale sign (that all was not well) before the taper surfaces were totally screwed up?

I’m not a mechanical engineer, so please give me a good design reason why the tang was developed in that shape, ‘cos those guys that designed it had a good reason for that shape. If it would have been better just flat topped, that is how they would have done it - simpler and faster not to have to locate the tang in the spindle slot, for instance.

11/02/2019 07:23:17
Posted by Chris Trice on 11/02/2019 00:56:15:
Posted by not done it yet on 10/02/2019 22:50:44:

Tangs on Morse tapers were there, I believe, mainly for ease of removal with a wedge (through the quill), but also helped prevent the taper turning and screwing up the machine if it jammed up or was not insered tightly enough before starting work.

Pretty certain tangs were never intended for anti rotation duties in respect of resisting machining forces in the same way that the slot on the side some collets is only there to resist rotation while being done up. The actual cutting force is taken (or should be) by the taper surface I believe but happy to be proven wrong. If the tang or slot is taking the load, the collet or taper is not fitted sufficiently firmly.


l entirely agree with you. But I have seen a few tangs that have been severely twisted, which would have really screwed up the morse taper surfaces had the tang not been there and the drill had continued to run! Tanged drills clearly were all of the same length Morse taper, not like the modern day tool-holding fittings. They also only fitted in a fixed position - so the wedge went in over the tang....

11/02/2019 07:09:57

They definitely need some friction. My Drummond has a spring-loaded friction piece bearing on the feed screw.

Emma, on her spare room workshop u-toob, was missing the friction pad and could not understand why her feed ratchet did not work properly....

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