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Member postings for not done it yet

Here is a list of all the postings not done it yet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: which compressor
17/10/2018 20:24:30

How do automotive air-con compressors compare with fridge units? Anyone know? Obviously need a drive, for starters.

Thread: Quality/Durability of milling cutters
17/10/2018 20:20:04

I will be able to see (and walk past) some likely rubbish cutters - at the midlands show this week.

One just needs to be selective, avoid the really cheap, non-descript, no-name, supposed bargains and move on - to the better quality cutters offered by the people who have a reputation (for good quality and service) to maintain.

Some of those ‘bargains’ are not cheap - because you have to buy again. Probably better, in the long run, to buy cutters which can be re-sharpened - not the throw-away types - so, investing in sharpening kit might be a more rewarding buy...

Thread: Needle thrust bearings
17/10/2018 18:03:13

Preload is required to minimise end play - as close to zero as possible. Wheel bearings should be tightened until they drag and then released by a fraction (or number) of flats of the securing nut (dependent on thread pitch and nunber of flats, of course). Running tight would overheat the bearing.

I have engines with steel crank and cast iron crankcase and others with sreel crank and aluminium crankcase. Obviously each require a different preload, to take account of thermal expansion at running temperature, to achieve the permitted end-float (always positive, never zero - which might be ideal - because the bearings might be axially loaded).

Consequently, I am not sure how much end thrust most of our spindle bearings would take continuously. My lathe has ball thrusts either side of the drive pulleys and they have survived for about 50 years of hobby use. Never yet seen any that have failed (given sensible treatment - lube and setting up an cleanliness).

Thread: which compressor
17/10/2018 17:27:06

Anechoic? Silence? Neil does have a wide ranging sense of humour, so it does make some think a bit harder at times.smiley

Edited By not done it yet on 17/10/2018 17:29:55

Thread: Warco Lathe Guard mod
17/10/2018 17:25:23

Not really ‘one better’, I think. A sliding splash guard is actually useful when turning a longer part.

One can always fall onto a long workpiece, being turned, and get caught up. A short ‘coolant splash guard’ is just about useless on a workpiece which requires coolant further along the bed, so how far does your guard extend?

I reckon they are better suited to protecting hands from chuck jaw contact. My current lathe never had a guard, even when new. Perhaps Common Sense was still alive and kicking back then?

Thread: Needle thrust bearings
17/10/2018 17:09:19

OK, sorry. Insert heavy for excessive, maybe?

Maybe you can enlighten why taper roller bearings always need careful adjustment for preload? Or am I misled on this operation?

Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling
17/10/2018 16:58:14

As you mentioned backlash in the same paragraph as gib setting, please be aware that the two are not (necessarily) connected. Backlash in the lead screws cannot be sorted by tightening the gibs.

Also, do remember to use a soft hammer or mallet, not a steel one, to tap any shaft in these type of bearings

If tight, I often use wedges to loosen my MT tool holders.  Available from AET, or can be made yourself.

Lastly, don’t fit colder taper tooling into warmer taper sockets. Expansion/contraction will make your life more difficult. Likewise a hotter inserted taper may loosen, if fitted to a cold socket.

Edited By not done it yet on 17/10/2018 17:00:56

Thread: Warco Lathe Guard mod
17/10/2018 10:32:08

Simples! Stand to one side, out of the line of fire (or splash)?

Thread: loctite fixing
16/10/2018 22:19:29

Yes, but.... shear forces are a different story. Magdeburg hemisphers could not be pulled apart by horses, but quite likely slid apart if there were no interlocking rims to prevent it. In school, we used small ones to demonstrate the forces needed. Same with magnets, too - more easily detached if they can be slid off the surface

Thread: Warco WM290 strange noise
16/10/2018 19:10:07

I avoid thick lube or grease on lathe gear trains.

Many gears have lube holes to the shafts they run on. Not so good if blocked with grease!

Any dust/swarf will stick to greased gears like the proverbial to a blanket. Not good for long term wear!

Quieten them by means of heavy lubricant, or grease, at your peril. smiley

Thread: Mini lathe speed and tailstock question
16/10/2018 18:26:27

I am wondering what the covering was, that deflected or absorbed the magnetc flux sufficiently. Jack is now a better judge of rpms, too! smiley

Thread: Needle thrust bearings
16/10/2018 17:25:43

It is ‘orses for courses’ and a variety of solutions are available to be used, as and when deemed sufficient or appropriate. One might consider when a simple spacer becomes a thrust washer - simply maintaining a position or resisting a directional force.

I don’t think tapered roller bearings are generally designed for excessive continuous thrust - they are only preloaded to a suitable amount so the bearing elements roll rather than skid.

Thread: Hay bales
16/10/2018 17:10:11

Rik, Mike,

I have a land-wheel driven binder stashed away. It worked, I think, in 1991 at a show - somewhere in the Boston area. Unfortunately it needs a couple or three - or even four - new sails. A friend drove under a tree with it on a trailer.

I would guess that most thatching is now done using reeds, so not so many real straw thatched cottages about.


In my early twenties, I would pitch hay bales against most. All day long, too. Can’t do it now, of course! I am talking averages. Cement bags have been reduced from a cwt (50kg) to 25kg because they are now deemed too heavy, if any heavier, for the average male. Times have changed and everyone, on average - apart from those that train (and some of them on steroids) - have less muscle than the average of 50 years ago. Obviously there are a larger proportion of pen-pushers these days than in earlier generations, so the comparisons are skewed somewhat.smiley

16/10/2018 15:29:03

Clive’s memories may be a liitle lost in the mists of time or only remembered from one large farm, I think.

The most common order of operations was cutting, stooking, collecting and placing in ricks, followed (often much later) by the arrival of the threshing machine.

Few farms would have had a threshing machine - the threshing would have been done by a contracting gang, moving from farm to farm. The ricks were often built on the ‘mushroom’ stones to keep the crop free from rat infestation before threshing could take place. I think I remember one such stack on the farm, but cannot be totally sure on that. I am now 70 and that was a home county small farm. I do not remember the threshing box, back in the early ‘50s.

The new cowshed was buit before I was school age - because I used to take the tea cans down to them on a regular basis (and I used to find the odd sixpence piece as they dug out the ground, by hand, for it. I did not realise it was a reward for my help!

Only the first farms on the contractor’s rota would have been able to feed straight from the field and that would have needed much more man-power than the norm.

Also, those sacks of corn were rather more than a hundredweight. I can assure you of that! Likely close to 1 1/2 cwt, if not more at times. Men were stronger back in those days - they had to be.

I don’t profess to know the actual dates of introduction of the pick-up balers in the UK, but our Massey Harris 701 arrived for either the 1951 or ‘52 haymaking season. I can remember a binder in one of our corn fields in about ‘52 or ‘53, but never saw it working. Afterwards, a contactor cut our crops for a few years with a 8’ cut Massey bagger combine, until Dad bought a second hand RSJ tractor driven 6’ cut in the late ‘50s. Even then, the sacks held over a cwt - or they were not filled enough - as they were hired from the local corn merchant or mill.

I expect many farms, particularly further north, were later in mechanising. I can remember I was well into my teens before one farm, we visited quite often, even got a grid electricity supply.

Thread: Warco WM290 strange noise
15/10/2018 15:04:19

Is it one of those DC motors and controllers, or an AC motor? I see they are now touting an improved AC motor with VFD, which as the warco hype states (for the new 290V), [quote] ”Now with new and improved dependable AC motor system.’ [unquote].

It may well be something in the motor, or drive train, vibrating on deceleration, even when the controller slows the motor from a slightly over-speed condition?

Oops, just listened to your vid - sounds awful - something like a missing tooth on a gear.

Edited By not done it yet on 15/10/2018 15:07:34

Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling
15/10/2018 13:37:04

No, they are for discrete sizes only. ER usually cover approx 1mm or 0.5mm range depending on the supplier and ranges offered.

You dial gauge might be held adequtely, but not a working cutter.

Edited By not done it yet on 15/10/2018 13:39:49

Thread: Another Workshop lighting problem
15/10/2018 13:14:59

Posted by Dave C on 15/10/2018 11:23:36:

The workshop is brick and thermollte block construction with cavity wall insulation so never gets too cold to be honest.

The workshop is presumably heated continuously? On a thermostat?

If not heated, the area will eventually assume external ambient temperature. The insulation simply slows down the heat transfer in or out, so extending the time temperature changes take place (depending on the delta between outside and inside - and assuming no air changes due to draughts).

Do you mean one or two fittings (twins) do not illuminate - or one or two tubes?

If they are all 230 volt units they will be wired in parallel.

I would think it will be temperature which is causing the problem. Is the ‘few months’, without any problem, time of year related?

I have two ‘starter’ type flourescents in two adjacent rooms (but no door to separate them. One is over 40 years old and always strikes within about a second and has only had one replacement tube (if at all) in that time, while the other, which is only 25 years old, has gone through several tubes, often fails to strike (particularly when cold) and always takes 2 seconds or more to strike.

Thread: Parting off - again, sorry
15/10/2018 08:30:47

We have two threads, running concurrently, on really the same subject - the inability of the OP to part off successfully.

I really think it is time for the OP to step back and consider every aspect of his working practice and improve each and every one to its maximum.

Among others, we have, so far:

Possible excessive overhang from the chuck with no additional support.

Possible excessive overhang of the tool from the holder.

Possible excessive overhang of the tool from the carriage.

Non locked-down axes while cutting on another.

Possible drawbacks with the machine design.

Cutting speeds in relation to diameter of work, material and cutter type.

Apparent differences between tool holders and some examples not being secured properly.

A possibly compromised parting-off tool.

Possibly poorly secured, or loose, tool post on the top slide

Likely others, too, not listed above from this or the other thread but that little lot should provide at least some considerable practical improvement in this task.

We don’t actually know which (or combination) of these factors led to the original cry for help. So time, now, for all the possibilities to be examined by the OP? Then, and only then, the OP might try parting off again, because changing one thing (in this case) seems very unlikely to solve the problem in one go!

Thread: Quick change toolpost
15/10/2018 07:54:38

So right, TG.

Particularly your third point, which does not appear to be followed by PH, as it would appear that the parting-off tool is rather outboard of the cross slide. Not good if one already knows one has problems with parting off, especially when cutting too far away from the chuck (with no support to avoid possible chatter - which then resonates, likely increases in amplitude and causes a dig-in in milliseconds).

I think that some, with less than rigid set-ups, are reluctant to shift it to make parting off easier for themselves. That, or they don’t consider the position of the cutter in the context of maximum rigidity.

I, probably like many others, run most often with the top slide moving parallel to the bed. But if I turn the top slide at right angles to the bed and slide my tool post to the right end of the T slot, I can arrange a cutter to be right above the centre of the cross slide.

Another alternative is that the lathe is not so well designed as to allow such positional choice. The QCTP is one example where rigidity is reduced, compared with the old fashioned lantern type tool holder.

Thread: Small slitting saws
14/10/2018 21:16:39

Some on the big river. Probably not what you want or of decent quality, this set contains one cutter of 32mm diameter, but is cheap and blades could possibly be ganged together for extra width? Only posted it because we have no idea of the material to be cut...


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