Here is a list of all the postings George Jervis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hole cutter|
|Hi there |
From one raglan LJ mk2 owner to another I know I'd have to take a seriously deep cut before my 1/2hp single phase motor would start to labour and I've never stall it, I'd check your motor first sounds like you might have an issue? these lathes are very powerful for their size
|Thread: Lathe identification|
It could be a Halifax,Sears,all copies of the atlas lathe. I used to own one a few years ago very nice lathes to operate. Your looks like you have a few items missing tho?
|Thread: Holding work on the cross slide|
|Hi Robin, |
When I did my first basic Line boring on a lathe I managed to clamp a angle plate to the cross slide T slot and then clamp the work to the angle plate running a homemade boring bar between chuck and tail stock. Would this be an option for you? I did put a short clip on you tube
George (little John)
|Thread: Coolant pipe seals|
|Hi Neil, |
I found in my search that you were not far off right, instead of plastic they were original using rubber washer followed by a short brass/copper sleeve that sat in a recess allowing it to be clamped up but also then be flexible my issue is the pipe that goes inside has been warn and rounded up. Trying to mount this in the chuck and turn this parrel is going to be fun 🤔 but my first try was a rubber grommet and a couple of thick washers so far it seems to have worked so keeping my fingers cross for now 🤞
Many thanks again to the collective knowledge of the forum
|Well today I've been out and about to my local plumbers and electricians etc but still no luck trying to get hold of this seal, I've searched on the internet with no luck either. I've even tired contacting myford via email and phoning but had no reply? Surely their must be a company that stock a seal|
|Hi Bear, |
Thank you for your input not a great help as the elbow joint has to be flexible but the the link would be very useful when I need to solder copper pipe and she did a very good tidy job too.
I've put a picture in my gallery and I've just measured the diameter of where the pipe goes into the elbow and it is roughly half inch. The rubber seal looks like it's supposed to pass partly through the clamping nut and squashed into place but leaving the elbow joint partly flexible.
I'm not having much joy putting pictures on here but their is one in my album
I have recently brought a coolant pipe (epay) for my lathe, so I can replace the leaking plastic thing I have. I need to replace the seals on the elbow joints but for the life of me i can't seem to find any where to buy them?
Would any one be able to offer any help please?
|Thread: Forum message system|
|Hi Bill, |
Your not the only one having problems with the messaging system. I've tried several times to enquire about items most recent the raglan 5 for sale and only had one reply out of several messages sent so have given up trying
|Thread: Taper turning|
|I don't own a boring head (yet) and theirs plenty of other ideas for my projects in the future? Has anyone made their own taper turning attachment? I seen a few ideas on YouTube I know on the little John lathe I'd have to remove the cross slide nut for it to work. |
|Hi everyone, |
I have a raglan little John mk2 lathe and I need to cut a long taper for a project. The taper turning attachments for my lathe are as rare as hen's teeth and cost more than my lathe is worth. I was considering a mt2 taper adapter for the tail stock but had the thought why are tail stocks made to be off set for this kind of work but are so difficult to recentre after use? and why not put a basic scale on them that could be used at a rough/set distance from the chuck to produce a said taper angle?
Just my thoughts
This might be a silly question? If you need to cut a long taper and it's not practical to use the topslide, why is it that most manufacturers if any? don't put graduation on the back of the tail stock to make it easier to off set them for taper turning?
|Thread: 3 phase converter help needed please|
My apologies everyone for not treating. everything is almost sorted now I can control the speed with the potentiometer which makes things a lot easier controlling the speed. The only issue I have is translating the motor plate and inputting the parameters into the converter? I used my rpm meter to find the top speed of the motor (1300rpm) and set that into the HSP setting so not to damage the motor. But at the moment it's usable but I'm taking it easy as I learn more about 3 phase
Many thanks for all the help given
|Hi everyone, |
Well I finally got it wired up and running it did indeed need a switch wiring in. I've now got a potentiometer to work out how to wire in and it'll all be all done?
|Hi John, |
I've already got a cabinet to put it and a on off switch just waiting for a potentiometer now, I found it jumped from one speed to the next as I adjusted SFP. I made the mistake of turning it off when it was still on full power testing it, when I turned it back on it made me jump going straight to full speed. I've adjusted the ACC to 4.0 sec and DEC to 4.0 sec instead of the original 0.3 it was on. so it Accelerate and decelerate slowly now all fun and games sorting it out
|Hi John, |
I think it's fantastic that people can come together on here and help one another. I feel a bit lost when it comes to electronics now. Since I lost my dad he was fantastic with things like this he was a electronic engineer on the missile testing range on benbecula. So anything electrical or mechanical/lathes work was just a phone call away
But it's nice to have the help again from everyone
Well I've put a switch on today and the motor now RUNS finally, just need to buy a potentiometer now to control the speeds as the motor is running at a slow speed.
I would like to thank everyone on the forum for helping fixing this with me
|Hi everyone, |
I live in mid Wales (Newtown Powys SY16) my friend (sparky) who supplied the vfd had sent me a message saying to try a switch like suggested he has a couple of spare converters identical to mine and earlier he put a switch on and it worked so hopefully in the morning I'll try and see if it works for mine
Just before I left for work I did try lo+ to +24 but again nothing happened I have been given another combination to try but that'll be tomorrow morning as I don't finish work until 22:30
Thank you for the continued help
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