Here is a list of all the postings RichardN has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Un-Blackening Steel|
When silver brazing (CupAlloys 455 with EF flux powder) I tried soldering lumps of steel (2" dia, about 5/8" long, attaching 1/2" diameter bars) the other day, cleaned with wet/dry with oil, then acetone, then fluxed and soldered, and all good. Except everything not fluxed has a solid hot blacked finish. Maybe I dropped the pieces into water while too warm?
How do I remove the black finish- my acid pickle says for copper alloys, and the flux residue just flakes off, and wet/dry takes far more elbow grease than I have to spare. I thought the acid pickle was to help remove the flux which came off far more easily than expected.
Muriatic (brick cleaner)?
Don't quench while hot after soldering and appreciate a solid even blackened finish?
|Thread: Sulphuric Acid for anodising|
I tried to buy H2SO4 a few years ago for anodising parts- found a local supplier to me (Poole, Dorset) but they needed to check my unloading facilities were up to scratch... turns out they sold almost anything you could dream of in the way of nasty chemicals by the cubic metre... I suspected SWMBO would have feelings about that delivery on the doorstep...
If you find a good supply let us know how you get on and I'll restart my anodising plans!
|Thread: How accurately can you machine?|
Has anyone on here any thoughts on the difference between these two methodologies for obtaining repeatability?
1- first cuts take relatively deeply- maybe 30thou/pass, then as you approach the final measurement make progressively lighter passes, 15thou, 5thou, then shave the last thou to suit.
2- take first cut at around 10thou, measure before and after so you know what that tool actually removes at a pass (which may vary due to sharpness, material, speed, time of day etc) then remove whatever amount is required allowing for a final pass or two at the 'known' depth of cut.
I assume 1 thou cuts with a dull cutter are just rubbing and polishing, so not guaranteed to be reliable and consistent?
Edited By RichardN on 06/06/2016 18:50:23
|Thread: Draughting Pens|
Unfortunately Rotring no longer make the 'gold' series for film- which from memory have a carbide tip for wear resistance rather than the conventional steel. I still have 2 gold pens, but the rest are conventional.
I am 30, work as an architect, and probably do 15% of my work by pencil & pen. There's a time and a place for everything (most things..?) and a romantic quality can be instilled in CAD work just as well as in a pen drawing- but it's quicker and easier by hand... Sketch and scribble for a first draft, work up detail in CAD, then final iteration for presentation with hand detail for the visual impact.
|Thread: Flying Scotsman's schedule to be kept secret|
But if you do want to see the train, local newspapers help by publicising the route with outline times and dates!
|Thread: Help in identifying cutting tool|
Ah, many thanks for that- I had been considering chopping it up to keep the carbide on a simple shank for chamfering purposes... I will now have to keep it in the hope of one day finding enough of a holder to use it!
Fairly new to this whole model engineering lark- but think I'm getting the hang of it. I'm making an Edgar Westbury Trojan, so started making a Harold Hall grinding rest to sharpen the tools to make the engine- and have spent the afternoon making a fly cutter to help make the rest to help make the engine... Very satisfying despite not actually making what I set out to do...
Anyway- picked this up at a carboot sale for free- I saw the glint of carbide in the bottom of a box of rust... The carbide has a roughly 80deg included angle, virtually no top rake, 1/4" along the longer edge, and a graduated dial behind the cutter. The threaded shank is approx 1/2" and pretty fine pitch.
Any one any idea what it is from/for?
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