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Member postings for RichardN

Here is a list of all the postings RichardN has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford Super 7 screw cutting gears (metric)
11/03/2017 13:27:39

Yes that's the one- you don't get a 'perfect' thread pitch for every thread, but with a couple of other gears (to swap into that same place) you can do all the metric threads with more than sufficient accuracy for most needs...

You do need to rotate the banjo to get the correct mesh, and if you use a small gear on that stud some lathes don't have quite enough adjustment...

Thread: Thread Pitch Error.
06/03/2017 13:53:26

Does it also depend on the length of the threaded portion to mate? If I just need a thin nut (1/2 thickness lock nut might be around 0.3x thread diameter) tolerances could be far greater than the thread within a T-nut that has a threaded portion perhaps 3x diameter?

Edit- see Neil's point above- beat me to it.

Edited By RichardN on 06/03/2017 13:55:18

Thread: question
06/03/2017 13:42:31

I was thinking you now need to make one less than a few?

Keep replying to these unhelpful comments and I'm sure you'll have made a few fairly soon...

Thread: Milling - What am I doing wrong
04/03/2017 07:59:53
Posted by petro1head on 03/03/2017 23:25:43:
Posted by duncan webster on 03/03/2017 20:36:23:

Your width of cut looks too wide. You should have no more than 1 tooth cutting at once, which more or less means the cut width should be less than 1/4 of cutter diameter. Half a millimeter depth of cut is very small, and is concentrating all the cutting on the corners of the end mill. To echo Martin Connelly, if your feed rate is too slow the cutter wil rub and go blunt very quickly. Aim for 0.004" per tooth per rev.

As a newcomer you would do well to buy a copy of either Arnold Throp or Harold Hall's books, they cost about the same as a coupe of cutters and will save you lots of blunt ones

**LINK**

**LINK**

Any views on this book - **LINK**

I don't have that book- but I believe it relates more about what machine and accessories to buy, whereas '35 Milling a Complete Course' **LINK** is excellent about techniques and skills, although primarily with a series of useful projects to make...

Thread: Bending 1/8 pipe
28/02/2017 20:06:15

No idea where I got fields metal from- absolutely right, I meant Woods metal (and changed original post)... I bought a small ingot of woods metal but then found the uni workshop had springs I could borrow and never tried it... I think there are different flavours of woods metal with compositions including or not cadmium etc which may effect melting point and availability..?

28/02/2017 19:59:17

Looks like a cheap set of springs including 1/8"... no guarantees of quality, usual disclaimer etc..!

**LINK**

28/02/2017 19:54:24

You can get tiny little bending springs which could work, although using the correct size is important as an undersized spring still lets the pipe crumple a touch which ruins the effect or causes small splits- or have you ever tried using Woods metal as a filler instead?

Edited By RichardN on 28/02/2017 19:59:48

Thread: Stirling Engine Displacement Cylinder and Piston
12/02/2017 07:27:43

Would standard Borosilicate tube do?

**LINK**

I've bought from this bunch before- send a message and they can create pretty much whatever you need with nicely ground ends I believe.

Thread: 1979 Myford Super 7B tool post stud
24/01/2017 21:31:59

Lots of useful comments- off topic responses appreciated too- useful to understand why things are as they are sometimes too! Will be checking out those parts diagrams...

24/01/2017 06:49:58

Thanks for the responses- sounds like the consensus is the original stud was BSF but modern versions have changed, without any impact on usefulness- I shall soldier on with the BSF handle then!

23/01/2017 23:40:54

So would you guess this is wrongly labelled, a later differing thread, or just a special stud of unknown origin?

**LINK**

I'm debating with myself cutting both UNF and BSF sample threads to compare fit with the original tool post nut, and possibly teaching myself the mystical three wire thread measuring system which seems like multi handed black magic to me...

23/01/2017 23:14:21

I am currently using my fathers 1979 Super7B, and endeavouring to add a few nice touches to it, such as a locking handle for the tool post stud, saddle clamp etc.

Fairly new to the whole engineering lark, but have metric and BSW/BSF Moore & Wright thread pitch gauges, and came to the conclusion the tool post stud was 7/16" BSF 24 tpi. Ground a 55deg internal threading tool and cut a neat blind nut as a handle- but when speaking to Myford Ltd at Alexandra Palace I was told he had never seen a toolpost stud that wasn't 7/16" UNF, he had no idea why but understood Myford are/were very good at mixing threads around.

Should this stud be 7/16" BSF, 7/16" UNF, something different, or could it be almost anything...? Anyone any thoughts? Does the 55deg vs 60deg thread pitch angle worry/offend others as much as me?!

I would add a picture of the handle I have made, but a ball turning tool is a way down my to do list and other people's knobs put mine to shame... wink

Thread: External circlip sizing
23/07/2016 20:39:26

Thanks again- sounds rather like generic tool steel- I assumed they were something special!

I'll be playing with the clips in the morning!

23/07/2016 16:51:22

Many thanks for the responses- the outer of the shaft is 15.8mm, perhaps a 16mm clip would be ideal- but I will have a play with a grinder and a blow torch and see what I can produce.

Not that it's important in this case- but what would be a good target colour for hardening after annealing and shaping? In reality turning a mild steel washer and splitting it with a hacksaw would do- but that's not really the point- the door already has a new knob, just fancied fixing this one...

22/07/2016 21:45:24

I have an issue with buying the right size external circlip- this is all to repair an old brass door knob.

The diameter of the groove that I need the circlip to clip around is 0.550", so I thought a 14mm circlip would suit, and ordered a pair from eBay. These arrived and the unsprung diameter measures 12.8mm- no chance of these stretching sufficiently to go on, let alone fit comfortably.

I contacted a bearing supplier, described the precise clip I require, and they explain the notional size of the circlip sometimes is the maximum diameter the clip will stretch to while fitting, and others sell them as the relaxed size, which may explain the issue. So I purchased a pair of 15mm which should have an unsprung size of 14mm at their recommendation, and the clips I received were identical to the previous, although came in a factory sealed packet that says "15mm (13.8mm)" but measure unsprung as 12.8mm.

Have I missed something obvious? Should I just force the clips open, have I bought the wrong clips twice despite being labelled differently? What should I ask for to receive an external clip with a relaxed inner diameter of 14mm?

Thanks to anyone who can help! Richard

Thread: MT3 collets
29/06/2016 13:52:23

If it's just a one off job I would think about a quick split sleeve to hold in the 18mm, I'm trying to think what the wall thickness is like on 3/4" copper plumbers pipe...

Or there are some 15mm MT3 collets around, but can't see them in any of the normal online shops I use.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/131173200327

Thread: Un-Blackening Steel
26/06/2016 21:06:31

Thanks- you must have a well organised photo library to find the images so quickly!

Looks like I need to hunt down some different brick cleaner- I thought it was Muriatic (HCl) but it seems my bottle in the garage COSHH states NaOH... Would be unwise to start mixing the two on a driveway...

I think my sievert burner (240g/hour) was struggling to get up to temperature outside in the wind, so took a while to get the heat up- and the steel was a mix of black bar and a box of boot sale offcuts- will have to play with it more for practice!

26/06/2016 20:45:23

Will that be a decent overnight soak, or likely a few minutes? I've no idea how deep and how quick the blackening will be removed!

Will I get much impact on dimensions?

Thanks for the quick response

Edit: just seen the pictures and time- perfect info, many thanks!

Edited By RichardN on 26/06/2016 20:46:15

26/06/2016 20:28:28

When silver brazing (CupAlloys 455 with EF flux powder) I tried soldering lumps of steel (2" dia, about 5/8" long, attaching 1/2" diameter bars) the other day, cleaned with wet/dry with oil, then acetone, then fluxed and soldered, and all good. Except everything not fluxed has a solid hot blacked finish. Maybe I dropped the pieces into water while too warm?

How do I remove the black finish- my acid pickle says for copper alloys, and the flux residue just flakes off, and wet/dry takes far more elbow grease than I have to spare. I thought the acid pickle was to help remove the flux which came off far more easily than expected.

Muriatic (brick cleaner)?

Citric acid?

Don't quench while hot after soldering and appreciate a solid even blackened finish?

Thread: Sulphuric Acid for anodising
13/06/2016 13:40:28
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/06/2016 13:27:29:

EEk! I hope I can do better than £47 for 2.5 litres,!

The bike people say "Please Note:- The maximum amount of acid we are able to supply per person is 2 Litres. We are unable to process any orders for battery acid unless accompanied by a Battery. "

Looks like drain cleaner will do - I thought they all used caustic soda.

Thanks,

Neil

I tried to buy H2SO4 a few years ago for anodising parts- found a local supplier to me (Poole, Dorset) but they needed to check my unloading facilities were up to scratch... turns out they sold almost anything you could dream of in the way of nasty chemicals by the cubic metre... I suspected SWMBO would have feelings about that delivery on the doorstep...

If you find a good supply let us know how you get on and I'll restart my anodising plans!

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