Here is a list of all the postings RichardN has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Printer Flexible Cable Installation|
It's not unusual to include an over length piece of filament (3mm is ideal, but I've seen a few pieces of thin filament used) within the bundle of wires to the extruded which is held in a clamp to the back of the extruded block- this give flexible bouncy stiffness, with all load taken on the filament (cheap enough to replace if it does break) but creates instant cable strain relief.
|Thread: Has anybody built Beng's Danni Steam engine.|
This link might be better for people to click on for the video...
|Thread: End Mill Sharpening|
I think a pair is gashes at 45 degrees to the cutting edges through the centre is the quick and easy solution with a saucer wheel if you have one- the centre portion has virtually no cutting effect anyway... while this may affect the aesthetic of the cutter, does it have a negative effect on the cutting action?
I find that once 'gashed' the cutter can be touched up several times before needing hashing again..
|Thread: Looking for 3/32" SQUARE silver steel|
Having typed the above- I wonder if he suggested the silver steel which in non-annealed form I think has a naturally smooth and hard-ish surface, so not actually hardening the guides at all... thus avoiding the natural distortion from heat...
Many thanks for all the replies- to slightly elaborate/explain:
I am making an LBSC Bat (Schools Class 4-4-0, 0 Gauge)
Curly states the crosshead be made from bronze (which may be tinned for the steel appearance externally if desired) and using silver steel for the cross head guide bars for resilience - I was planning to case harden the bearing surfaces of the coupling rods (all rods for coupling, not just the coupling rods themselves if you see what I mean) which he recommends - so potentially I may use 3/32 key steel (mild steel) and case harden for the guide bars too...
I'm sure suggesting I'm making a Bat will provoke more questions than 'why use silver steel for the guides', particularly if you realise I am planning the full valve gear rather than slip eccentric, and coal firing, but I have the design which I understand is functional, and I want to, just 'because'!!
I'm so glad others get lost as to what composition different steels are!
Cromwell describe it as high grade mild steel, but the perfect cross section. Would this suit case hardening for wear resistance?
I have no idea- is key steel something particular?!
Sorry, trying to get to grips with all the terminology that everyone else knows!
MSC do have square silver steel, thanks, but 1/8" upwards!
Since I'm looking to make guide bars (for cross heads) I guess the stability of the GFS would be handy- I'll see what I can knock up!
Currently searching for four 2" lengths of 3/32" square section silver steel...
Failed to find any at the Bristol show the other weekend, and I think I've just been though every advertiser in today's ME...
Anyone know any 'odd' suppliers worth trying?
Should I mill strips from ground flat stock? Is that the same as silver steel?
|Thread: Has anyone been to the Bristol Show|
I'm about to drive up there, but there's some photos from someone who went yesterday...
Which might give an idea..?
|Thread: Effect of Tensioning a Boring Bar|
Fascinating discussion, and while I follow the debate the principles of the calculations pass way over my head- apologies if my thoughts make no sense...
But is a boring tool a simple cantilevered beam with a vertical load? Under no cutting forces with a tool mounted in holder but not engaged I accept gravity tends to act vertically, but surely as one plunges into a bore, the cuttting load is initially vertically, but at the first hint of downward movement the shape of the bore will add an exponentially increasing side load... is this not therefore a torsional/rotational force rather than a simple vertical load? Or does the maths still work out the same...?
If you consider this a rotational force... and the inner compressive push rod is compressed by means of a helically inclined plane... will increased deflection created additional tension, and change the 'strength' or 'chatter resilience' or will the reality of amount of rotation be insufficient to be measurable...
|Thread: LBSC's Designs|
Not sure if you are nearby to Bristol this weekend, but the BSMEE Model Engineering Exhibition has a plan to get as many LBSC designed locos together as possible- could be a useful point of contact to people who may have less common locos, who presumably have/had drawings for them too...
John- if each supplier can redraw and make fine alterations- will each have their own copyright (potentially out of date) while design rights may be entirely separate from the copyright of each publication. Presumably a digital model authored based on the content of a hard copy 'analogue' drawing may may have to come under more general rights of design than the copyright?
An interesting sounding project, with a number of potential issues- not least the copyright.
I have just bought the words and music of "Bat" (0-gauge 4-4-0) from Tee Publishing, along with the drawings from GLR Kennions. While I haven't found any actual differences between these, they have clearly both been drawn at different times. Presumably this means that while 'X' company may be happy for you to 'reproduce' the drawings for whatever purpose, 'Y' company may not be, or may have different copyright limits? Did Curly update or revise his designs? Did others 'tidy up' drawings, or tweak any misunderstanding for clarity, thus with complications as to ownership?
I'm modelling the Bat (or Flying Mouse if you read some of his articles) in Fusion 360 as the inner masochist wants to try the full Stevensons Link valve gear rather than slip eccentric and as a first model it takes some thinking about... What format drawings are you aiming for? Full parametric for editability? Sketchup for cheap everyday viewing? DXF for 'digital' 2d representations of the original drawings? Or sexy model for rendering as your example?
|Thread: What are these stone sticks?|
Well that's three apparently different answers for a start!
But seriously, thanks, I'll start googling with at least some sensible words now- the suggestions above all seem very plausible from a 10 second Google on each!
I picked up a tobacco tin of BA taps a few weeks ago at a boot sale, which aren't a full set but are in really decent nick- paid a quid but was then given several other tins of rusty taps, drills, and another tin with what look like marble but feel like chalk- some kind of stone sticks?
I wondered if these were hard and could polish up the tip of a drill, or the flute of a tap, but they feel soft and chalky... about 5/16-1/2" in section if that helps?!
|Thread: Try Model Engineers' Workshop or Model Engineer for £1|
I get the same error message too Ed- but found if you use the link written in the advert (but not clickable)
You can get the offer working fine!
Thanks for the heads up Neil!
|Thread: Making a slide plate for a hand-held sander|
Hi Clive- I think this is a version of the stuff I used, which I glued to a flat steel sheet. Not sure which product you refer to- it seems Axminster don't have an own brand version of this anymore which I bought originally and cut to suit my sander.
but I have noticed they also sell
which is just a thin steel sheet bent to suit, to which the carbon sheets can be added, should you so desire... I assume these steel sheets are therefore considered replaceable normally, so spares may be obtainable, even if 25 years old... maybe?
If you do replace it- I believe axminster (and many other) sell adhesive sheet that is some form of firm carbon/rubber 'stuff' designed for the belt to run over- this is normally stuck to the steel plate I think you are referring to? It's easily cut down to size and provides a cheap and disposable low friction smooth surface - a significant upgrade to my belt linisher (created by G-Clamping a £5 B&Q belt sander to edge of a workbench...)
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