Here is a list of all the postings RichardN has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What is this?|
Looks rather like the Popular Single Cylinder Vertical to me... (parts/plans still from AJ Reeves if you need anything else...?)
|Thread: Myford S7 position|
Hole and bung was the first plan... that migrated into an insulated flap with deadbolt for security and integrating a fixed steady... then I realised the hole would likely be within a few inches of the door frame... moving the door seems the tidier (but more radical) option?
Thanks Frank- I thought the motor was tucked below the cover, but thanks for the confirmation- really useful.
V8- minimum distances I agree entirely- I had hoped I could squeeze an 8’x20’ container in the gap at the side of our new house- turns out I can’t... but have half built a 7’9” x 24’ timber workshop instead... the property boundary is the dictating aspect- but having modelled everything (currently) owned to fit into workshop, and planned space as carefully as I can (with clearances and buggerance factor) I should still have full access to the lathe with long through spindle access (via an open door when needs must) and if I move a cabinet should just about have space to get the the motor... hopefully...
Quick question- wondered if anyone knows the minimum distance between spindle centre and the wall behind the lathe (Myford 7 series), while still having enough clearance to open the primary belt drive cover. Manual suggests 13.5”, but not sure if this allows the cover to swing open... unless maximum crossslide travel (long cross slide on S7b I believe?) is the limiting point?
My lathe is in storage while my workshop is gradually being built- and wanted to check the dimension so I can position the door opening to allow for long stock to run through the headstock and into the world outside when necessary...
Edited By RichardN on 01/05/2019 21:38:14
|Thread: Martin Gearing Wooden Oscillating engine|
I’ve seen several of that sort of size that work well from a vacuum cleaner though... if a bit noisy...
|Thread: It's not rocket science|
Edited By RichardN on 12/12/2018 22:34:46
|Thread: BR all steel 16ton mineral wagon|
Can’t see any of my useful photos- but currently modelling a similar wagon (O gauge and in polystyrene for now) but I believe the sole bar ends are shaped to continue between the webs of the headstock beam.
I will try to look out some of my photos of wagon chassis (or photos of the GL5 chassis I saw at Bristol this year?).
Edited By RichardN on 09/12/2018 08:36:34
|Thread: ME page 217 & 218|
So one can have visible lights, so long as they are permanently disconnected?
I believe ‘daylight MOT’ is the (unofficial) term for having an MOT that may have an advisory to say that there are no lights able to be tested, but which cannot be a failure courtesy of the above legoslation
(Apologies I managed to split my post)
(4) Without prejudice to regulation 16, for the purposes of these Regulations a lamp shall not be treated as being a lamp if it is–
so painted over or masked that it is not capable of being immediately used or readily put to use; or
an electric lamp which is not provided with any system of wiring by means of which that lamp is, or can readily be, connected with a source of electricity.
Regarding lights: I understand you can MOT a conventional motorbike without lights (i assume on the basis you are able to use arm signals) if you register the vehicle for day only use for limited mileage- ie a ‘normal’ bike can be used off road and on the actual road (without the danger of broken glass from mirrors and lights) but only during daylight hours which are defined as more than 30 minutes after sunrise and more than 30 mins before sunset so you can ride to and from off road locations.
I guess you can also do this for other vehicles- would you want to take a 2” steam lorry on the road at night?
|Thread: How can I drill a deep, non-standard, small diameter, hole?|
Apparently drilling small holes can create a Japanese game show- I was watching this the other week...
(For those who don’t want to watch 30minutes subtitled with far more drama than necessary- a contest between drilling on lathe vs EDM- but drilling a hole up the middle of a 0.5mm mechanical pencil lead).
|Thread: EIM disappeared from WHSmith?|
all of our local WHSmith seem to have stopped stocking EIM, and their computer system suggests they aren't planning to retain the title - anyone know of an issue with the magazine?
If you have a few minutes, these videos show the process of forming flanges for boilers at Blackgates Engineering - may be useful to you.
|Thread: Digital Issue Vol. 220 No. 4588 is missing front cover|
I think JasonB is already working on the cover-
Not sure about the thumbnails though...?
|Thread: Designing for laser cutting in mild steel|
You may want to be careful if getting holes precut for threading - I have seen caution advised since the laser cutting can affect the temper of the steel which causes problems when tapping.
Can you get a faint 'engraving' type dot on the surface which can then just be drilled and tapped? or a noticeably undersize hole cut which can be enlarged (removing hard spots) before threading?
I'm not sure of the size of holes you refer to - is this 1.5mm holes in 2mm sheet or 15mm holes in 20mm?
|Thread: 1/2" roughing end mill|
Dave- I wondered about that cover- looked like a flywheel in a 3 jaw while a dremel in toolpost grinds the internal bore...? I didn’t come up with a reason why though... or why the high carbon flywheel...
Sorry for off topic...
Edited By RichardN on 27/05/2018 12:09:58
|Thread: Making spokes into spokes|
Thanks Michael, always good to remind myself of just how little talent I have! 0 gauge is quite fine enough for me, and I won’t need to use polished gemstones for bearing surfaces!
Although, the watch is quite nice...
Thanks for the replies- sounds like I’m overly worrying, and will have to just jump in and try to follow the advice with sharp fine cuts- might try supporting with soft solder, for peace of mind... and filing the rear of the spokes- I genuinely hadn’t thought that people could leave them as machined- I was aiming for the same profile as the front, I was thinking.
I am working on an 0 Gauge 4-4-0, for which I have wheel castings, where the spokes aren't truly spokes as they are all joined by a complete cast disk at the back. the photo shows a driving wheel to machine (dwarfed by a 5" black five driving wheel, where the spokes are true spokes, if that makes any sense?)
I suspect drilling and filing each would send me crazy, but if machining the back solid portion off the centre on the lathe, as I break through the load on the spokes would potentially shatter them?
Is patient fettling the answer, and I should be thankful it only has 4 driving wheels?
|Thread: Issue 4584|
My copy didn’t reach mid Dorset either- but subscriptions pooped a couple of extra issues onto my subscription this afternoon and I luckily got the last copy from WHSmith- not ideal but these things happen sometimes!
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