|Thread: garden chair, wooden slats broken.|
What is the chair made from? If you don't know or it doesn't matter I would replace the slates with teak. More durable than all the others mentioned and easier to maintain.
A cautionary note about Iroko. If left outside to weather it can warp exposing its twisted grain with the real risk of nasty sharp splinters in sensitive body parts. Iroko splinters tend to go septic and the wood itself untreated tends to go a nasty shade of black. Iroko dust is horrible as mentioned above.
Not that I have got anything against iroko of course.
|Thread: Steel boiler storage.|
Posted by Brian Wood on 20/07/2019 11:04:28
You secure it mechanically so that it is in good electrical contact
It's called cathodic protection and is very important in the marine world. The electrical connection has to be very low resistance as the driving voltages are very low.
|Thread: water supply|
Posted by Mick Henshall on 16/06/2019 09:13:34
We are surrounded by lots of water, ships can make fresh water from salt water, big mistake is not investing in de salienation plants , as I understand it as you cannot destroy water there is the same amount now as there has always been, thats my opinion right or wrong 🚾
You are right. Big ships (and little ones) make fresh water from the sea using reverse osmosis but it is energy hungry. It is not usual to drink the stuff and is often called "technical water" and is mainly used for sanitary purposes as well as for cooking. We have large scale de-salination plants here in Mallorca but they are only used in high tourist season and in emergencies.
You are partially right about not being able to destroy water but you can split it into oxygen and hydrogen using electrolysis so we have used up tiny amount. Again energy hungry.
I think one of the main problems is that more and more water is the growing populations and changes to the natural distribution patterns of rain and snowfall.
|Thread: Illegal CD copy|
Posted by Fred Karno on 14/06/2019 03:54:33
I made a crack at those who, rather than bother to read the legislation, take their information from Wikipedia and James Bond films. You didn't get it, and now you dig an even deeper hole and refer me to a link to a "Cabinet Office document".
Once again I have news for you. This "Cabinet Office document" is not legislation, nor does it pretend to be. Those who bother to read just the executive summary recognise it as no more than a policy - in this case, a list of classifications and how they are to be applied. It has no force in law.
For the protection of my sanity I have now marked your posts as "To be ignored" but I am sure that will not stop further displays of your inability to learn.
I don't know enough about the subject to know whether you are right or wrong but I have a good idea. I do however think your manner of expressing yourself is unnecessarily rude.
In fact I have seen much better behaved Trolls.
Those 60 pint glasses must be a bit of a handful!!
|Thread: Basic questions about wax chucks|
Posted by Nigel Watts on 29/05/2019 16:05:03
These old glues have their advantages. I am more a woodworker than a metalmaker and the old hide glues have great properties with their two stage set - a weak one as they cool quickly and a stronger one as they dry slowly. Modern glues tend either to set rigid immediately allowing no time to adjust or take a long time to set at all, making clamping more difficult.
Edited By Nigel Watts on 29/05/2019 16:08:31
That's interesting Nigel. I bought some light burr type veneer to finish a deck on a model yacht. I bought it from a furniture restorer who suggested hide glue and I wasn't quite sure why. She also said contact would be ok but positioning would be tricky and I am would be worried about the glue being flat enough. Water based glues would be out and I would only use epoxy if I had a vacuum bag set-up which I don't.
Perhaps I should go back and get some hide glue but I seem to remember there were two types?
The veneer will be sealed with multiple coats of yacht varnish so I am not too bothered about the water resistance of the glue and the boat would only ever be out on the water for 2 or 3 hours at a time and then fully dried off.
What do you think and sorry about the thread drift?
|Thread: proxxon band saw|
The belt just slides into the Vernier at 9.5mm but it is probably nominal 10mm which would fit fine as there is a bit of clearance to the flange of the splined drive.
Just had a look inside the cover of mine (MBS 240/E)
The belt is Fair (trade mark) MXL B285
Hope this helps
|Thread: anealing piano wire|
I build a lot of model aircraft and here is my solution:
This is a small electric plane but the method scales up.
Brass tube is available that slides over the piano wire for a nice fit either for soft soldering or gluing with epoxy. The tube is the correct length for the hub of the wheel with some extra and the piano wire is cut off level with the outside face of the hub. The brass tube is then cross drilled which obviously is a piece of cake and the wheel retained by a stainless steel washed and in this case because it is a small model, a brass pin. In larger models I would tend to use a stainless steel split pin. If you don't like the bore of the copper tube being visible it can easily be filled.
To stop the inner face of the hub binding on the leg of undercarriage I solder, or in this case epoxy another washer in place and build up the fillet so it looks nice and tidy as well as being well supported.
Usually the hole in the hub needs to be reamed out to fit the bras tube but this provides the opportunity to make a proper bearing fit. Often stock wheels are sloppy on standard wires sizes and chatter when spinning as well as reducing the accuracy of the tracking.
I once tried to thread the end of the piano wire to take a Nylock nut. I did get a thread of sorts but it wasn't pretty and wrecked a perfectly good die. The end result was neat but not really practical.
|Thread: Aluminium Firebox|
Posted by vintage engineer on 14/03/2019 21:48:12
Molten aluminium and water is highly explosive!
So are all molten metals with very few exceptions including Mercury and specialist low melting point alloys like Cerrosafe.
|Thread: Tube Notching|
I am intrigued - A fuselage for what? I wonder how strong those joints are going to be?
With a 0.2 wall you are removing very little material. I would be inclined to insert a suitably sized wooden dowl and use a fine round or half-round file. Unless of course you are doing hundreds!
|Thread: Kyosho Fairwind|
Follow Jason's link. I am doing a reconstruction of a 50 year old model Galileo. You will find the forum very slow in comparison to this one but nonetheless useful for information. See you over there.
|Thread: Hip replacement - End of live steam?|
You will not look back. I had my first new hip when I was twenty five. I am now 62 and have had 9 in total. 6 on the left hand side and 3 on the right. I wore one out after 17 years after the socket developed two bearing positions. It used to jump from one to another which was a bit disconcerting. In sport you can often keep the trophy if you win three times in a row. I mentioned this to my surgeon and said I would like to keep my faithful friend. He said it breaks all the rules and he could no possibly do it but look out for a package on my bedside table in the morning.
It is a great conversation piece - or stopper depending on the audience!
I work full time as a yacht surveyor that involves walking, ladders, cramped spaces and moving decks. I don't plan to give up any time soon.
The best advice I can give to you is use it like normal. One of my surgeons said to me after a concerned relative said I should take it easy, "I would not have bothered to fit it if all he is going to do is sit around all day"
You will know your own limitations nd never let anyone else decide for you what you can and can't do.
PS I have not yet found a modelling use for the material being mainly into RC aircraft and yachts.
|Thread: Hello from Bedfordshire...|
I think you have more posts than me already. I find this a really fascinating forum and I have following it for a few years. My Grandad was a keen and accomplished model engineer and a tiny bit has rubbed off on me. Fantastic range of subjects here.
I have slowed right down on the model aircraft building and having a re-visit to some radio controlled yachts. I have an IOM that I would quite like to race competitively. Our nearest flying site is an hour away but I have a harbour on my doorstep. I am also rebuilding a damaged model yacht that I built 50 years ago.
I like the sound of your lathe. I think you said it was ex toolroom. I have a the 400 Proxxon with a mill attachment. The most complete item I have made on it is a combined nose weight and tow release for a Sophisticated Lady. It will get some more use now with the RC yachts.
You are a great contributor on the modelflying site and look forward to your posts here. On the modelflying site you might know me as Levanter.
|Thread: Forged & Filed|
Could watch that all day long.
|Thread: What type of glue to use...|
+ for Pritt. When the time comes to take the paper patterns off, brush on some clean water and the paper will soak it up readily. It will also start to wrinkle and lift. If you keep going sparingly with the water the paper will more of less fall off taking most of the glue with it. If you try to peel the paper too early you will find more of the glue remaining on the job.
I do this all the time for balsa and plywood ribs and formers on model aircraft.
Just a light wipe with a damp (not wet) sponge or cloth and that removes any residue.
No nasty solvents!
|Thread: steambox for ply|
Jason B has it on the nail. 4 laminations or 1.5 mm will give you a fraction over 6mm finish as there will be a slight growth in the glue lines.
Don't try to steam plywood as it will likely end in tears. In effect you are making your own.
You will need a reasonably robust former and loads of clamps which you could make with suitable lengths of planed pine and studs. The clamps will need to be very closely spaced to get even closing of the laminates and to help this I would have a sacrificial layer top and bottom which is not glued but simply there to provide a more even clamping pressure and to stop the job itself getting marked.
If I was doing this I would almost certainly use epoxy glues as the curing time can be made sufficiently slow to get everything lined up. It will also be durable.
You will get a bit of spring back over the length of your application but that does not look to critical. If it is, you will have to slightly overbend and there you are on your own!
|Thread: Sleeving a shaft|
Very helpful everyone but for the moment I have pushed the problem into the long grass.
Among my projects further down the list is a smaller motor glider with a smaller spinner. The collet was the same OD but drilled for the 3mm shaft. Overall it was a bit shorter needing a longer machine screw to retain the spinner cone but I have tried it and it works.
I am in a hurry to get this one finished but now I have time to set up to make a new one for the later model. Looks like it could become the perfect excuse to buy a few more tools.
|Thread: What's the best alternative to 'loctited'|
I totally agree an electric bill could be truly shocking! I could easily see me having the same argument as I insist that a toilet roll has the loose bit hanging from the front. Except that is if it is hanging from a wire holder old style on the back of the door in which case it has to come from the back.
As for the right word Neil I would just drop the 'e' and it now becomes "loctit" job done
|Thread: Sleeving a shaft|
Now why didn't I think of that! Doh!