Here is a list of all the postings Hollowpoint has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Meddings pillar drill colour|
After the war there was a huge surpluss of green paint, that explains why a lot of equipment from around the 50's was green!
That's the colour! Much nicer than the hammerite dark green. Funnily enough I have one of these drills waiting for restoration so I'm watching with interest.
Some before and after pics would be good!
The Dark Green is hideous imo. Meddings offer a refurbishment service, they use a light blue colour. Looks great.
|Thread: Recommend a Small Parts Lathe for £2k.|
It should be its 2-4 times more expensive.
I've had both the ML10 and a Mini Lathe so I am speaking from experience. I completely fail to see how anyone could believe they are even in the same league! Take my mini lathe for example, the bed, from new, is tighter at one end than the other! Properly ground? Not even close. It would take about a hundred years of use to wear the myford bed into that state! The only real advantage the mini lathe has is the larger internal spindle diameter but in this case its not needed
Edited By Hollowpoint on 01/12/2019 16:06:16
The ML7 and super 7 are massively overrated and overpriced. Your photo proves that even rough ones can fetch a good price.
The ML10 on the other hand is much less popular and represents good value for money, they can be had for less than £500 which is about the price of a mini lathe. I don't know what you went to look at but I don't know how you can be unimpressed? Almost every ml10 I've ever seen has been in at least good condition. They where typically used by model engineers rather than industry so most have seen little use. In comparison to a mini lathe its like a Rolls Royce. No plastic covers, no plastic gears, no plastic handwheels a properly ground bed, proper motor and proper chuck. What's not to like? IMO they are actually a bit of a bargain.
I do agree that Boxford lathes beat them all hands down, it just doesn't fit with OP's requirements.
I don't know why everyone is always quick to recommend new stuff. For small parts a Myford ML10 would be ideal and it will be higher quality than the Chinese stuff.
A £1000 will get you a minter. The spare £1000 will buy you all the accessories you will ever need.
|Thread: aluminium troubles|
I'm no cnc expert but it doesn't look like you are doing anything wrong to me.
I would try some material from a different supplier. That way you will know one way or another if its a bad batch of aluminium.
|Thread: "Mystery" Tool|
This is my smug face. 😇
I imagine it's for holding or centering something in a 4 jaw chuck?
|Thread: Mini Lathe Upgrade|
If it was my money I would be looking to upgrade to a larger machine. The mini lathes are OK but they lack rigidity. They do seem to hold there value though so that might help pay for the upgrade.
I can't comment on the db7 because I've never had one. I have had an ML10 though and it's a lovely machine! The biggest drawback as with the ML7 is the limited spindle bore. Not ideal if you are making motorcycle parts. My current lathe is a Boxford AUD which beats the others mentioned hands down. This would be a perfect choice for you as it has a good bore size and my own will part through most stuff with ease. An AUD would set you back £1000+ though. You might be lucky though and find a CUD or BUD within your budget. That would be my suggestion, the difference between your mini lathe and the Boxford would be noticeable.
|Thread: Carriage Locks|
You are basically clamping the carriage down to the bed. The mini lathe for example uses a large t-nut under the ways which is pulled upwards by tightening a bolt passing through the carriage.
|Thread: 3D printer recommendations|
I recently bought a 3d printer, after many hours of research and loads of recommendations I went with an Ender 3 Pro. I have not been disappointed with my purchase, it's a very nicely put together machine which seems way better quality than the meagre price tag would suggest, the print quality supprised me as it is really quite good! One of the things that swung it for me is that there is hundreds of spares, accessories and upgrades available for this machine at very reasonable prices. There is also a big support community which is a bonus if you ever need any help. I would readily recommend the Ender 3!
As for software. I use fusion 360 and cura. Both good, both free.
|Thread: Cold Blue|
I agree with mick. I used to be well into my shooting and g96 is the best, and I've tried plenty. Parts need to be spotless before blueing. Washing with ordinary Wasing up liquid and warm water works for me. Then oil or rub over with renaissance wax.
|Thread: Yet another 'which mill shall I buy'|
It's just a well built lump of iron and to me it seems more rigid than others in the same price range. One of the factors that did it for me though is the simple belt and pulley arrangement. The gear head mills make much more noise and if you managed to strip a gear it means you are out of action for a while. On the VMC if I snap a belt (and its very unlikely) I can find something in any common a garden motorspares. The pulley setup also lends itself to easy conversion to a VFD if I choose to at a later date.
I use this type on my VMC. They are more than accurate enough for my needs and not expensive.
I purchased a lathe from amadeal. The guy at the other end of the phone was pleasant and helpful. I asked If I could choose a different colour since I didn't like the white/navy they supply as standard. He was happy to supply one of the other colours they usually reserve for the more expensive full setups. The lathe was delivered next day as promised. There was some minor damage from transport when it arrived but after a quick call they agreed to send replacement parts, which they did very quickly. From my experience with them I would happily recommend them.
As for a milling machine, go for the VMC if you can afford it. It's a great machine!
Edited By Hollowpoint on 10/11/2019 10:36:07
|Thread: Painting! There one day, gone the next!|
There is an excellent video on YouTube about finishing aluminium. IIRC it was one of Dan Gilbert's videos.
The best finish Ive ever managed on aluminium was by shot blasting and then using acid etch primer afterwards. One of the things I learned from the video was that you must paint aluminium very soon after preparing the surface as it starts to form an oxide layer within hours.
|Thread: Carbon steel taps and dies|
Nothing wrong with carbon steel but HSS is much better imo. Have you tried looking on ebay for new old stock? You can sometimes pick up top quality presto, dormer, guhring etc for about the same price as carbon. 😉
|Thread: New lathe next week|
Oh dear, I wouldn't have booked time off work if I was you. Chester don't keep their promises when it comes to delivery.
Anyway on a lighter note, I couldnt image using my mill without a DRO now. They are one of those items that after using you wonder how you ever did without.
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