Here is a list of all the postings Hollowpoint has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mini-Lathe setup for an absolute beginner?|
I'm in the same situation as you atm. I've just bought a mini lathe from amadeal to use in a flat as I don't have 24/7 access to my Boxford anymore 😞 The mini lathe isn't stupidly heavy and should be no bother for two people.
I will make one suggestion though, I personally wouldn't go with HSS. It does cut very well but sharpening might be a problem. I wouldn't fancy using a bench grinder indoors especially in a flat. The noise is horrendous. Cutter geometry isn't easy for a begginer either. Go for a SCLCR indexable cutter with either a 8 or 10mm shank and a box of CCGT tips. You can then do the vast majority of turning operations for little out lay and no sharpening to worry about. 👍
|Thread: HSS or CS taps and dies|
Yes that is true. But you seem to be implying I don't have much experience. Belive me Ive tried the lot. I have good quality British made carbon steel taps from the likes of Hall, Osborne, and Clarkson. They are about on par with a low to mid range HSS tap.
|Thread: indexible internal thread cutting tool|
Did you get the tip with the tool? There is two types of insert. One for internal work and one for external work. They look identical at a glance, it's very possible you have the wrong type.
|Thread: HSS or CS taps and dies|
I'm very supprised to see so many recommendations for carbon steel 🤨 In my experience HSS is superior in almost every aspect. They are less brittle, seem to cut nicer threads and they stay sharper for much longer. My advice would be to buy the sizes you use most often loose. If you shop around on ebay you can often pick up new taps from top quality brands like presto, dormer and skf for a fraction of the price.
|Thread: Ever have one of those days..?|
I seem to have that type of day quite a lot. I remember spending abut 3-4 hours one day making a small part then promptly dropping it behind the lathe never to be seen again. Another similar, spent again about 3 hours machining a part, I'd just about finished when I decided to wind the carriage into the part rather than away from it completely destroying it. There isn't enough swear words for them days.
|Thread: NME&MEX Doncaster|
Thanks, I just took pictures of the stuff I liked no real reasoning behind what I photographed. All these images where taken on a mobile phone believe it or not! Just shows how far they have advanced. You are correct the tool is for sharpening drill bits. A nice design I think.
Few images for you guys that couldn't make it to the show.
Visited yesterday for the first time. Very enjoyable. As others have said it was very disappointing to see that Warco, Arceuro, Axminster etc didn't show up. I was looking to buy a lathe and wanted to compare. Their loss I suppose because Chester got my money in the end. Spent a good couple of hours looking around the trade stalls first, managed to bag a few bargains! Then looked at all the amazing models. The Bentley was definitely best in show for me, the detail was just superb. I took lots of photos so if anyone want to see let me know and I'll try to upload a few.
|Thread: How much can a chuck effect finish?|
I am not insulted at all Karl, all help is appreciated. I should have mentioned though that i'm not completely new to engineering and I own bigger machines. I have tried the more common problems which is why I don't believe it to be anything else.
I have adjusted all the slides and gibs and they are pretty smooth and solid.
I have tried brand new cutters both HSS and Carbide tipped.
Tool and work piece overhang is minimal.
I have tried holding tools in both the compound slide and a tool post fixed directly to the saddle.
I have tried to minimise chuck and back plate run out as best as I can.
|Thread: Dialect expressions|
Im not too far from Wakefield and "snap" is still commonly used to refer to food, but then I am from a small miners village.
I remember talking to some work colleagues once and I happened to use the word "ginnel" there was blank stares all around. I explained that it was like a "snicket" but that didn't help much.
a couple more Yorkshire phrases that spring to mind:
Was tha born in a barn? - You have left the door open.
Put wood int hole - Please shut the door
|Thread: How much can a chuck effect finish?|
Guys i'm getting a bit frustrated with my little C1 lathe its a temperamental so and so. The way it cuts seems to depend on what day of the week it is.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to one of two things. I think its either the chuck or the head stock bearings. However both give me doubts.
1. The chuck looks to have been messed with. It doesn't centre up very well without anything in it but with a length of stock in it does appear to hold reasonably concentric and tight. However when turning the finish can be anywhere in the range from acceptable to god awful. I can only take very light cuts even in aluminium and I usually get judder and it sometimes screams like a banshee.
2. The head stock bearings are strange, I can spin them by hand and they feel OK, if possibly sounding a little dry. There does seem to be a slight tight spot but this is only noticable with the chuck removed and the belt disconnected. There appears to be no sideways play or movement whatsoever.
If I chuck up a length of stock directly into the spindle using a mt2 collet and draw bar the finish improves dramatically and I can take bigger cuts judder free even in steel.
So can the chuck really make that much difference? or is it simply that when i'm turning using collets i'm much closer to the head stock?
|Thread: Parts for Boxford Tailstock|
I had to replace mine too, something way back in my mind tells me they are 1/4 - 20 UNC but it was about 10 years ago so don't quote me on that.
|Thread: Odd furrow like finish when taper turning?|
Just finished stripping the compound slide. There was a lot of old dried up grease on the slides so I cleaned all that off and like Hopper said the gib strip was quite poorly finished with lots of small burrs so I gave each side a rub on the wet stone to smooth it out. Reassembled with a dab of oil and it seems to have done the trick!
I tried tightening the gibs that didn't make any difference, Ill try the other suggestions see what happens.
I picked up a compound slide for the little C1 lathe to enable me to turn tapers last week but I've come across a weird problem when using it. When I turn a taper the surface of the taper has a furrow like finish? It is not the wavy finish you sometimes see from judder but more like the cutter is being drawn into the work and then deflected as the hand wheel is rotated. I've tried adjusting the gibs to take out the play but that didn't help, in fact it made things worse?
Any ideas guys?
Edited By Hollowpoint on 26/03/2019 11:36:31
|Thread: Collet Chuck or not ?|
That sounds like a job for a fly cutter. Personally I use the biggest cutter I can get away with for rigidity.
|Thread: Boxford tool post|
I have one of the Dixon clones sold by chronos its a bit rough around the edges but it does the job. Cant remember if the model was T1 or T51 but last time I looked the toolposts where about £100 and extra holders about £20 each.
Edited By Hollowpoint on 23/03/2019 20:17:11
|Thread: Unusual knurling tool|
Lovely tool that! Don't know if I would pay the £407 for the one linked in Michaels post though.
|Thread: Tool Post Milling/Drilling Attachment|
Ive been looking at that motor for a small wood turning lathe do you think it would have sufficient power? Also does it have holes for face mounting?
|Thread: R8 instead of MT3|
I would go for morse taper. There is an abundance of good quality old morse taper tooling around, often much cheaper than more modern R8 stuff. If you have a lathe its likely to be morse taper which makes tooling interchangable between the two. Ive never found morse taper difficult to extract? a short sharp tap on the top of the draw bar and its out?
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