Here is a list of all the postings Simon Williams 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Inverters and stop switches|
Simple factual answer to the question as stated - "could the e stop be wired into the single phase supply" is "Yes!"
But the question deserves some more thought than that, and the pro's and con's of putting an E Stop in the supply need a bit more consideration.
Firstly, my apologies if I've missed the relevant post, but I don't think I've seen what sort of machine this is. This arises because I think the proper answer to your question needs a rudimentary risk analysis to inform the design decisions. If the machine is something nasty and dangerous, then the risk of injury is offset (controlled) by being able to stop the machine quickly, and switching off the mains supply won't necessarily give you the optimum control. If your arm is in the mangle then having an active machine braking function activated by the emergency stop would probably be a good idea.
If the hazard is of the machine going berserk because of the inverter losing control then shutting the mains off is your only option. For the milling machines and lathes I have in my shed I think this is a very unlikely that a modern good quality inverter is going to go doolally, so I have the E Stop function as a stop signal to bring the inverter to zero frequency and with DC braking if appropriate. The inverter stays energised so it can do what it needs to do to effect a rapid stop pf the offending machine.
So the short and simple answer to your question is "Yes" - you can connect some sort of E Stop functionality to remove the mains supply from the machine motor, but my preference is to use the extra control facilities of the inverter to give me a quick stop function and for this I leave the supply on the inverter but tell the inverter to stop the machine. There's a big red latching button on the machine within reach, and if I bang it the machine comes to a stop whichever way it is configured.
Horses, as they say, for courses.
Hope this helps Simon
|Thread: Pulley flank angles - help !|
Another vote for 34 degrees or something close from me.
I've read that the included angle is (slightly?) dependent on the radius of the vee pulley groove - the tighter the bend the less the included angle. Whether it's significant and to what extent the default 34 degrees figure needs to be modified is very likely something Mr Fenner's drawing office keeps in a safe place.
I've made Z and A section pulleys of a variety of diameters using 34 degrees included angle and been happy with the results.
|Thread: AVO 8 Mk2 meter wire size|
I've got a Mk3 in the shed, and it's been sat on a shelf for about 30 years. I pulled it down to admire it not long ago and realised that the needle was sticky. Pulling the back off shows very fine iron filings aggregated to the magnets in the coil gap.
On one of the radio/electronics forums I was advised not to take the magnets off the movement, as cycling them through the magnetic remanence path of removing them and replacing them will change their strength. These are red eclipse pot magnets before the days of rare earth.
It may be an old wife's tale, but if so it's well entrenched in Avo folklore that removing the magnets is a one way trip.
If you know different or have a cunning work-around do tell!
Best rgds Simon
|Thread: Lifting A Tom Senior Light Vertical|
Good evening again, looking for some advice please.
I am planning a house move, and included in my goods and chattels is a Tom Senior Light Vertical.
The question arises of how to pick it up safely. I don't like the thought of putting a sling around the cast iron bar at the top of the machine where the head is attached - all of the weight has to be carried by those two little castings clamping the head. Or am I being over-cautious? Having the casting crack would be the end of Mr Senior.
I moved it on a pallet the last time, but of course it's top heavy.
|Thread: Limiting pressure to a gauge|
Is this because the oil is viscous when it is cold, or perhaps the engine is a bit tight yet and will slacken off when the running in process is complete.
Cure the problem, not the symptoms.
I'm uncomfortable with the idea of dumping oil flow back to sump during start-up, that's when you most need the oil in the bearings where it belongs. High pressure on start up suggests the oil isn't getting where it needs to be - or at least not in the quantities it should. I'm assuming the oil pump is a positive displacement device so the rise in pressure indicates a restriction in the flow around the engine. If it is actually caused by the oil being a bit thick and treacly when it is cold then there are other oils to choose, at least for the running in phase.
I'd fit a higher scale pressure gauge as a temporary measure and see how this problem develops as the engine hours accumulate.
|Thread: What solenoid to use?|
Try googling "belimo actuator" for a wide range of damper actuators - essentially a motor driven crank that turns trough 90 degrees. Other variants are available but looking at ebay at the moment there seem to be quite a few on offer around the £25 to 30 sort of mark.
|Thread: Tingling from Myford Super 7|
I know I keep banging on about this, but the idea that there might be enough resistance in the earth path to allow any item within the installation to reach a voltage sufficient to experience a tingle needs de-bunking, as it flies in the face of everything the Reg's have to say about earthing.
Sure, the earth path will have some resistance, but the installation must be such that the potential reached by any exposed conductive parts (metalwork) is always below the safe touch voltage, even under fault conditions (whilst blowing a fuse). Safe touch voltage is usually deemed to be 25 volts RMS, that won't give a tingle though the actual requirement is that anyone touching an exposed metal surface must not be given sufficient shock to cause an involuntary movement.
This places some pretty tight constraints over what earth path resistance can be accepted, and rightly so.
Cows being very susceptible to electric shock there are specific additional requirements for livestock pens, farms etc.
As has been said before, you have two faults.
The leaky cable under concrete is fault 1, but you still have to find fault 2 which is the inadequate earth connection to the frame of the lathe - and possibly other loads. Please don't ignore the second fault!
|Thread: Bright EN24T steel vs Black EN24T for cutting gears|
As alluded to above, I assume it doesn't need saying that you don't want to let your nice sharp involute cutter anywhere near that nasty black mill scale. It'll knock the edge off the cutter quicker than you can say pickle.
There, I've gone and said it now...
|Thread: Tingling from Myford Super 7|
Well, I'm not saying it can't happen, but it would be a strange and significant fault in the supplier's PME system to allow sufficient potential difference between neutral and earth to be detectable by the "tingle test".
The point of PME (parallel multiple earth) is that there are many paths of cross connection between neutral and earth; all of them within a zone would have to fail simultaneously to get a "tingle" as described. Not to mention a few house fires....
No. Go looking for a failed or broken earth connection. The last one I did was caused by the earth pin socket pin not making contact in the socket outlet (13amp socket at the wall).. The machine earth bonding was all connected together but the whole lot was floating from the house earth because the earth pin didn't connect. In that instance the motor was connected to a VSD so that was the cause of the leakage current. If I've understood correctly there is only switchery in this application, so there is no excuse for enough leakage current to cause the symptoms as described.
But that's not the whole problem in this case, you've got a second fault (earth leakage current) as well. Come what may you need an adequate earth connection and this is absolutely a text book example of why.
HTH, do let us know how you manage to resolve this.
Good luck Simon
Turn it off at the mains, unplug it or isolate it or whatever it takes to make sure it can't be energised. Without wanting to get too melodramatic, this is a potential (no pun intended) emergency and you MUST isolate it. NOW.
The symptoms you describe are of two separate unrelated faults. Firstly you have an earth leakage fault of some kind, and sure that Dewhurst switch is a likely suspect, so are the motor internals.
You also have a second fault, in that the frame of the machine (lathe, switch etc) is not earthed.
My suggestion is that you get someone with experience of looking for these two faults to have a look, as you need some specialised test equipment and the knowledge to use it and interpret the results. If you are in the West Glos area send me a PM and I'll gladly help.
As Robert has said, is is very definitely something you should be worried about.
Isolate it and call for expert help.
|Thread: Universal Joint Alignment|
Thank you Neil, not least for correcting my silly but very annoying spelling mistake.
I'm more than somewhat confused by this now - Neil you are right in quoting the link you have used, and it says what you say it says, but...
Along side the text is this picture, which kinda speaks for itself.
There is also another paragraph later which says :
A double Cardan joint consists of two universal joints mounted back to back with a center yoke; the center yoke replaces the intermediate shaft. Provided that the angle between the input shaft and center yoke is equal to the angle between the center yoke and the output shaft, the second Cardan joint will cancel the velocity errors introduced by the first Cardan joint and the aligned double Cardan joint will act as a CV joint.
Hello good evening, and my thanks to all those who have taken the trouble to respond.
I've sort of got the answer I was expecting - I haven't done the maths but I would expect aligning the yoke parallel would give the best cancellation of the angular velocity variations. However here is a re-print lifted straight out of the parts list for the machine in question.
Which clearly shows the yokes at right angles. Don't know why.
I've had this shaft out on a previous go-round, and I'm pretty sure its got a master spline so it will only assemble as shown. I think I'm going to have to just accept that I don't understand.
Many thanks once again for everyone's interest.
Best regards Simon
|Thread: Thread Cutting on Myford Super 7|
Ah Hah! That'll do it!
Many thanks Tom for the update, it's always nice to know how these things resolve themselves.
Now we're looking forward to some pictures of the EIP (engine in progress) pretty please
Best rgds Simon
Tom, good morning.
24TPI isn't a fine feed within the meaning of the phrase in this circumstance, and you don't need to reverse the 17/57 gear pair on stud A to get it. Reversing this gear gives you the range of fine feeds as marked on the gearbox label, but we're talking about a few thou per rev (13 down to 1) such as you would use in turning a parallel surface.
If setting the top lever to centre, and the sliding handle to third from the right doesn't get you 24TPI there is something else wrong. Could you let us know what thread your scratch test showed, maybe we can reverse engineer the cause from the symptoms.
Handily my picture happens to be taken from the very angle that lets the top lever obscure the 24TPI setting on the label.
What thread have you actually cut, and if it is very fine indeed is the gear on stud A already reversed?
Otherwise can we have a picture of the gear train from the mandrel down to the gearbox input gear cos' the explanation's there somewhere.
|Thread: Universal Joint Alignment|
Good evening all. and a jolly wet one it is too.
I have been spending some time recently rebuilding a tractor, and have come to servicing the PTO shaft from the front mounted transfer box to the rear splined take off. The shaft is a simple cardan shaft with spider type universal joints at each end and a central sliding spline. The two end points run in fixed bearings and are on parallel axes.
The yokes of the two UJ's are presently assembled at right angles on the floating centre shaft. My (limited) research suggests it is normal to align the two yokes so they are parallel, to minimise torsional vibration. OK it's a tractor and a 540 rpm shaft is hardly a precision application, but what is the logic of this?.
Does it matter, and why?
Looking forward to some advice, so many thanks in anticipation
Best regards Simon
PS (edit) Just pressed the go button and noticed the spelling mistake in the title. Please Neil/Jason could you add the missing "r" ? Many thanks
Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 30/09/2019 19:45:22
|Thread: Are there any left?|
Thank you Robert, in a previous existence I passed through Nottingham maybe two or three times a month, and frequently stopped in to see what delights Anchor could tempt me with. These days I need to make a day of it to go there, so I'm pleased to hear they made it albeit on a survival kit regime.
Their museum was something to behold, and I'm sorry to hear it was lost. Such is life.
I was seriously tempted by the the jet engine (a Gnome if I remember right) but it was a bit (quite a bit) more money that I wanted to sink. Nevertheless, what an experiment!
Rgds to all
Rolling back to John Haines' post above, Anchor Surplus had a nasty fire about two years ago. Are they back up and running again?
Rgds to all,
|Thread: Anyone good at fault finding with amplifiers here?|
First suspect is dried out and leaking electrolytics, but TR203 base to emitter voltage at 0.8+ volts says it's cooked. Doesn't necessarily say why. TR 205 is also off or nearly so, 2.4 V across R211 doesn't look right.
Shouldn't need a matched pair for TR203/204 (edit correction 201/202) to get a stable and usable system, though it may be needed to get the distortion/noise spec. If you want to borrow a distortion meter I've got one.
That 21 volts negative on TR203 collector looks wrong, (80 v or so across R209) confirms that TR203 is not a happy bunny. Looks too far negative, should be nearer mid rail. But TR201 and 202 are nearly completely off, as revealed by + 67V on their collectors. Long tailed pair like this (even if upside-down) should have collectors mid rail or thereabouts. Can't hurt to pull C204 and replace it. Ditto C201 is suspect.
Keep us posted as to progress, do.
Best rgds Simon
edited for correction in italics - though the same is true of TR203/204!
Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 18/08/2019 00:51:42
|Thread: Arkwright Scholarship|
My thanks to all of you who took the time to answer, as ever some excellent ideas have come out of this. I am looking forward to the experience of having a willing and eager apprentice albeit only for a couple of days. I may even sweep the floor before we start.
Although the suggestion isn't directly connected to those ideas detailed above, this exercise has broadened my mind and I think I can find him something to do related to his interest in competitive archery. Either that or possibly following the suggestion above about some kind of third hand or PCB manipulation gadget. We shall see.
So thanks again for all the expertise and suggestions.
Regards to all
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