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Member postings for Simon Williams 3

Here is a list of all the postings Simon Williams 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Kant Twist alternative?
25/11/2021 20:06:23

Just put two on my Santa list. MSC Direct was the cheapest I found (one needs to make sure Santa knows where to look), though Amazon also offer a very limited range but at more spendy prices.

If anyone finds a better UK source do please share.

Rgds to all


Thread: Myford Super 7 clutch adjusting screw over tightened
23/11/2021 15:53:32

If it is any consolation I doubt that you would ruin a single phase motor on stop/start cycling in any normal lifetime. You might blow the upstream fuse if you really went hammer and tongs at it, but the motor itself is pretty solid. The clutch is there for controllability and ease of use, particularly threading. I have a lathe of a similar vintage to yours wherein the clutch is either solid or loose, and the lever doesn't allow you to choose between them. I use it with the clutch intentionally defeated (jammed tight). It's been like that for 40 years plus, and while it is true I have fairly recently changed the motor for a three phase one it wasn't because the single phase motor was protesting. I changed it for an experiment just to see if the lathe was better with a VSD and soft start - and concluded it is much improved.

I rather think that taking the countershaft to bits isn't going to reveal anything you can't do already, as the countershaft pulley will still have the clutch horseshoe jammed tight inside it, and you won't be able to dismantle the operating linkage without resolving this somehow.

Might just conceivably be worth popping the whole countershaft in the freezer? Then heating the outer cone multi-pulley quickly? If you can get the clutch shoe to let go just enough to line up the adjusting screw I think that's your only chance.

It would be a shame to take it part way to pieces then get stuck, and not be able to reassemble the countershaft again. You're better off as you are!

Good luck,

Rgds Simon

22/11/2021 23:07:47

Pictures as from the relevant bit of the user manual here

22/11/2021 23:01:34

Welcome to the forum!

From the description and the date, this is the old style horseshoe shaped clutch made out of cast iron, located inside the top multi step pulley under the drive cover.

Unfortunately I rather think you've boxed yourself into a corner with this one. Best I can come up with is to observe that the clutch has slipped under the start-up load, otherwise the adjusting screw hole would still be lined up below the screwed bung hole. If I've interpreted this correctly it means that the clutch is not rock solid.

Let's see if we can reverse the symptoms and recover the original situation by slackening the belts taking the drive down to the spindle, then grab hold of the countershaft motor pulley and the multistep pulley and see if brute force will prevail. I'd try turning the multistep pulley backwards to see if the clutch will allow a little bit of movement.

Bit crude, but it's the best I can offer so far.

I've been trying to import a pdf from the service manual with an exploded view of the offending bits, but I haven't succeeded.

HTH Simon

Thread: Availability of a T33 & T34 Myford Change Gears?
16/11/2021 13:11:17

Brian - good afternoon to you. I was hoping you'd be able to chip in with a more coherent explanation of this than I managed, thank you.

I feel I ought not to let the concept of a 33.5 T gear pass into Myford myth. I hate to spoil a good story, but it was a 16.5T gear (or the functional equivalent thereof) John and I devised.

In fairness to everyone who has contributed this is a red herring, as we've established that the gearbox is the later type and thus the 33 and 34 T gears will offer the neat and workable solution for cutting the common metric pitches for which they are rightly popular. I was concerned not to assume that Frank's lathe and gearbox combination were contemporaries, as there would be a whole world of confusion awaiting if someone had fitted an old gearbox to a late date lathe.

As to sourcing the 33 and 34T gears, hopefully the forum can provide. Unfortunately I can't help at the moment, or at least not until after Christmas as I'm part way through a project for my nephew for his Christmas present, and I beginning to wonder if I've bitten off more than I can chew!

Best regards, stay healthy!


16/11/2021 11:18:31

Diagnosing the gearbox vintage is straightforward. There are pictures of the differences in the threads referenced above, but the simple way is to first check that the thread cut is that indicated on the gearbox top label. So check - for example - if the levers are set for 20 TPI then 20 TPI is what you get.

Now open the gear cover to look at the changewheels carrying the drive down to the fat 72 T gear on the input shaft of the gearbox. If the gearbox is the later type the input gear on the mandrel (first stud below the tumbler gears) will be 24 tooth. It will be mounted on a 30 T which meshes with the tumbler gears. I don't have a picture of this to hand but maybe someone else can add one. There are pictures in the threads referenced above.

If the gearbox is the older type the gear driving the chain down to the input to the gearbox will be a 12/30 compound gear as the old gearbox runs at half the speed of the newer one. Here's a picture of the gear cluster for the older gearbox:


The Myford one is the steel one on the left; the bronze one on the right is another (related) story.

If you do have the older gearbox don't buy the 33 and 34 T gears - they are no use to you. If this is the case report back on here and I will introduce you to the alternative solution (it's that bronze gear!).

Best rgds Simon


16/11/2021 00:25:15

Dunno if it helps, but this thread has got some further information about the 33 and 34 tooth gears:

More details

HTH Simon

Thread: Cutting up bits of metal
15/11/2021 22:45:50

Centec owner here!

I've had two of them, an Automill Mk1 converted to manual X direction feed and now an Automill Mk2 which has presently still got its original hydraulic feed and is in the throes of being converted.

I reckon the Automill is much more interesting than (say) a series 2 or 2a, it's more heavily built and - presumably because of the hydraulic to screw feed conversion necessary - a whole lot cheaper to buy.

Centec Automill on

Tom Senior made a nice machine or two, but the price they attract is according.

Have a look at the little Harrison horizontal mill

Harrison Horizontal Mill on

HTH Simon

edit : I wouldn't chance my arm going grinding on any of these machines, although the top speed on my Centec is 3000 rpm it's far too vulnerable to getting grinding dust in the dovetails which would wreck it.  Andrew's comments about the feed rate are also relevant.


Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 15/11/2021 22:47:57

Thread: Availability of a T33 & T34 Myford Change Gears?
15/11/2021 21:54:02

Reverting to Frank's question "is there more to it than that", well, yes there is.

I did a search on this forum and came up with this as being pretty typical of the collected knowledge:

33 &34 T gears

It includes a useful table courtesy of Roderick Jenkins (first page of this thread) detailing what to set the QCGB to for a wide section of metric pitches.

There are other references, also the definitive text is Brian Wood's book "Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting". Amazon say they have stock.

Please note you need to know if you have an early gearbox or a late gearbox. This thread :

Myford S7 metric threads

explains why, and how to tell the difference.

HTH Simon

Thread: Replacement surgical blades for Swann Morton scalpel handles
03/11/2021 21:41:54

I've certainly bought packets of blades on ebay in small quantities of 20 or so at a time, but this seems to be no longer an option. It looks like you can buy a handle bundled with replacement blades but a very limited selection..

Pretty sure I've got some shape 10 blades to fit your number 3 handle you can have, IIRC they come in a little silver foil packet of 5 but won't be sterile. I've got other shapes as well so it's as well MichaelG has found the encyclopedia of SwannMorton.

I doubt if I've got anything to fit a number 4 handle but I will check in the morning. Maybe you can recognise the shape of blade you need from the SwannMorton catalogue. If you would like to advise what shape you want if I do have some you're welcome.

If you're interested drop me a PM.

Rgds Simon

edit - correction I think you'll find that shape blade in the number 3 handle is a 10A

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 03/11/2021 21:58:40

Thread: Wanner grease-gun thread ?
03/11/2021 19:15:56

BSP is 55 degrees included angle, as it is a hang over from the days of Joseph Whitworth Esquire.

NPT is American so is 60 degrees.

Not going to make a discernable difference on a thread depth of 23 thou.

02/11/2021 20:36:17

Hi I've made special nozzles to fit the Wanner pump casting, I used 1/8 BSP (parallel) threads throughout. I'd expect it to be imperial because Wanner IIRC is Swiss so it's unlikely to be NPT.

1/8 BSP is 28 TPI.

1/8 NPT would be 27 TPI. It would also be a tapered rather than parallel thread form so that's a no on two counts.

M10 x 1.0 is close but no cigar, also 3/8 UNF (24TPI) is another near miss.

HTH Simon

edit - added in italics

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 02/11/2021 20:38:10

Thread: Galvanising small items
16/09/2021 20:40:59

Good evening, and may I ask for some thoughts from the assembled expertise on the subject of hot dip galvanising small items.

I am in the throes of restoring a 1963 Series 2a Land Rover, and would very much like to re-galvanise the body cappings. I'm planning to repaint the original aluminium panels and it's going to look really naff with new paint alongside 60 year old dissolved and rusting galvanising if I don't do something to give the body cappings a face lift. I could paint them, but that's a cop-out!

I hear all sorts of horror stories about small items getting lost in the bottom of the zinc bath, never to be seen again. Or getting bashed about by girt big heavy stuff and coming out unusable.

In terms of actual dimensions, one of the largest items would be the spare wheel carrier off the bonnet - say 12 inches diameter by 2 inches deep. Otherwise the body cappings are typically a 3 inch cube, and the rear body rails are say 1 inch angle section by 4 feet long,

Does anyone have any experience of having small light weight stuff hot dip galvanised and maybe a recommendation for a "responsible" galvanisers? I'm in Gloucestershire but distance wouldn't be a problem if I could find a reliable solution.

Suggestions please.

One last comment - no, electroplating just isn't going to be suitable.

With many thanks in anticipation as always.


Thread: Welder wire
12/09/2021 23:05:27

As above, plus:

How much welding do you want to do

How rusty is it

What damage to the wire feed tube can you put up with

Is it rusty enough it won't feed through the copper collet in the hand set

Even if it does, are t=you going to get an irregular contact and thus a intermittent arc?

What class of work are you engaged in. If you're blacksmithing then it may be OK, if you are doing something structural then it's not going to fly

Thread: Sheet metal saw.
31/08/2021 21:22:15

Been here, got the tee shirt!

Firstly you need a fine tooth blade, 32 teeth per inch preferred, 24 TPI at most. A bimetal blade is favourite - you will bend it and kink it to begin with and an all hard blade will snap. Absolutely definitely cut on the push not on the pull. Tension the blade so it isn't tensioned! I know that sounds silly, but having tension in the blade simply bends the backing plate of the "frame". The frame supports the blade but doesn't tension it in the same way as a conventional hacksaw frame does. It transfers the force from the handle to the front of the blade and the skill is in keeping the frame straight.

Now for the difficult bit. There is a knack to pushing the blade against the sheet material so you don't bend the blade and the saw frame. Having the saw at an oblique angle to the cut helps reduce the eagerness of the frame to bend.

The secret to success is not twisting your hand as you push the blade through the cut. Its very easy to introduce a twist of the handle which creates the kink that is driving you crackers. You need to hold the handle of the blade so it prevents the frame from twisting, not introduce a twist. You push the blade in a dead straight line.

Initially you don't put much down force on the blade, so as to minimise the force applied along the length of the blade. As you get better at it you can introduce more cutting pressure and better progress.

As has been said above, once the 1 mm thick cutting disc got invented these things were obsolete.

Good luck!

Thread: Midlands Exhibition
23/08/2021 22:13:57

There is a sad irony in this, referring to a thread Neil started in response to the last Midlands Exhibition in 2019. As a reference here is the link

What do people want from an exhibition?

Oh how the world has changed!


Oops, sorry Neil, that link goes back to 2018.  My bad!

Edited for whoopsie correction

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 23/08/2021 22:24:54

Thread: Motor malfunction
17/07/2021 15:00:47

It might not be an electronics question. I've had something very similar. It took me far too long to find a small piece of debris jammed in one of the slots of the windings (in my case jammed in the rotor) which was fouling the gap. The gap isn't much so it only took a miniscule bit of crud to jam up the works.

HTH Simon

Thread: How to repair damaged lawnmower drive
04/07/2021 17:01:16

Blade shouldn't be hard. Tough as old boots, yes, but not hard as it mustn't shatter. So - as John says - butter a bit of mig in the hole, and file to shape. Nice variation on the apprentice exercise of filing an internal and external hexagon.

The drive piece with two flats is likely mild steel anyway. Butter and file. Don't make the flats too wide. If you can machine them and get them symmetrical and central so much the better. Carbide tooling is probably overkill.

Do let us know how you get on.

Thread: Strimmer /BrushCutter any recommendations ?
01/07/2021 21:43:46

Cutting brambles is quite effective with a hedge cutter - for which a reasonable quality battery one will suffice. But it does give you back ache!

01/07/2021 21:35:05

+1 from me for the Aspen fuel, worth every penny. But it is pricey. My local dealer suggests using it for the last tankful of the season but otherwise use oil/petrol mix but with stabiliser.  Worth while to empty the tank back into the manin petrol can each time you put the machine away.  It's a fiddle but it seems to be worth it.

Buy an aerosol of Carburettor Cleaner and spray the carb' passages if it plays up.  But you need to take the mixture control needles out, which may mean breaking the adjustment seals.

I use a four stroke Stihl brushcutter quite a bit, I've gone over to the head with the three nylon blades ("Polycut" you end up wearing a lot less of the debris. I bought it secondhand from the local Cash Exchange, hasn't missed a beat. For brambles you need a steel blade, but that in turn needs a machine on a harness so you can't get the business end near enough to your feet to do yourself a mischief.

I have a friend who bought the Honda four stroke one, seems to be completely trouble free. But then it is a Honda.

edited - added comment about emptying the tank

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 01/07/2021 21:39:28

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