Here is a list of all the postings John Reese has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How to seal a lathe headstock|
I forgot something in my earlier post. You need a locking device to prevent the spindle from pulling out when you cut toward the tailstock. I suggest using a sleeve over the spindle. One section of sleeve between the bearing and the pulley. Another sleeve between the pulley and the outboard bearing and a locknut against the outboard side of the ball bearing. I suggest this approach so it is not necessary to reduce the spindle diameter in order to install a locknut against the roller bearings. It also provides positive location for the ball bearing.
|Thread: Stopping castings rusting|
When my brother worked in carpentry he used Future floor coating on his tools to prevent rust. Based on his experience I used Future to protect soil sampling tubes from rust. It worked beautifully. Is Future available in the UK?
|Thread: Drilling brass|
I have a few half round drills that I use exclusively on brass.
|Thread: Extension Socket|
In over 60 years around metalworking I have never seen an extension socket without a tang. You could cut the tang off, drill and tap for drawbar threads. How will the tool be retained in the socket?
|Thread: Tilting Table Kit?|
|Thread: Pillar Drill Vice Mounting|
I have a shop made vise similar to this http://www.penntoolco.com/wahlstrom-float-lock-drill-press-vise/. I bought it many years ago from a retired toolmaker. The feature I like best is the stepped jaw that acts like parallels holding the work off the table. Google Floatlock.
|Thread: Finger plate.john wilding|
|Thread: Millling clamps|
About a year ago I had a similar setup problem. I found a 2 piece vise for about $44 at Enco. It was rather crudely made, but it got the job done. I don't know if Enco sells in the UK. Probably one of the European vendors handles a similar product.
Yes, two separate parts is the way to go.
|Thread: Too simple ?|
Yes, bore the hole first. A couple other options for holding the gear on the rotary: in a 4 jaw chuck using soft metal pads on the jaws, or make an expanding mandrel and hold that in a chuck, either clamped to the mill table or on the rotary.
|Thread: Steel quality|
I think the real problem is mis-labeling by the mill or vendor. Most users of material rely on the mill certifications as to physical properties and chemical composition. When dealing with off-shore materials I would want to see physical and chemical tests by an independent laboratory.
|Thread: Automotive Automatic Gearbox|
The gasoline engine is more efficient when the throttle plate fully open. The modern engine and transmission controllers try to approach that. When I was at the university in the late '50's we dyno tested a Ford 6, probably 240 cubic inches. Its best specific fuel consumption (pound per brake horsepower hour) was at 800 rpm with the throttle fully open. Unfortunately, most of the carburetors made in the US at that time enriched the fuel mixture when it sensed low manifold vacuum due to open throttle at low rpms. That was done to prevent knock on acceleration. There was not the engine/transmission management technology at that time to allow low horsepower operation with an open (mostly) throttle.
One of the biggest energy losses in a gasoline engine is drawing air past a partially closed throttle plate. One of the reasons a diesel engine is so efficient is that it operates without a throttle plate.
|Thread: Oils seals, which way to install?|
In my earlier posts I neglected to mention that there are seals with dual lips. They provide against lubricant loss and exclude dirt. I have not looked at a seal catalog and I know know nothing of what is available in the UK so I can't make a specific recommendation.
Just did a quick search. SKF and Timken offer oil seals. They should be available in the UK.
Edited By John Reese on 04/04/2016 02:41:03
Here is SKF info.
Edited By John Reese on 04/04/2016 02:43:52
Edited By John Reese on 04/04/2016 02:45:12
Add Garlock to the list of sources.
Edited By John Reese on 04/04/2016 03:06:34
|Thread: Free hobbed worm wheel|
Just spent several minutes on the web searching for stock gears of the size you wanted. This is the closest I could find. http://www.martinsprocket.com/products/product-search?Website_Code=GR5
Have you checked the vendors of stock gears? They might be expensive but probably less than buying a rotary and tearing it apart.
|Thread: Fish scaling|
I have never been a fan of engine turning. I think it makes an object look cheap. After seeing photos of the bugatti I may have to reconsider....
|Thread: What IS Gunmetal?...|
As Nick said, gunmetal is a bronze of specific composition. Don't remember exactly what they were. As cast it does have a greyish color. Cut surfaces are the color we normally associate with bronze: yellowish. I expect that if left to weather it would get a green patina.
Edited By John Reese on 03/04/2016 23:31:49
Edited By John Reese on 03/04/2016 23:32:36
|Thread: Special ER Collets|
Could you explain elephant's foot to me. Never heard that term in the shop.
|Thread: Top tip for cleaning cast angled faces.|
I like your approach as shown in your first photo. If you use this setup often I suggest fastening a piece of round stock to the underside of the plate at thr right end. That way you only need to clamp the round to the table, eliminating the fussy setup on the right.
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