Here is a list of all the postings John Reese has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ring rollers|
Check out This Old Tony on you tube. He had a video about building one.
|Thread: Shaft Steel Material Selection|
Here is the source of my recommendation:
From Machine Design Magazine: Surface hardness 58C, 16minRa finish.
Rough machine leaving grins stock. Harden. Grind between centers. Touch up keyseats using a carbide end mill.
Alternative: If 60 case rod is available in the right diameter use it and mill the keyseats with carbide.
|Thread: Brazing Oilite bearings|
I have successfully soft soldered Oilite. Being a porous material it could continue to absorb solder as long as I kept feeding it. Needless to say, the the soldered material was no longer oil absorbent.
|Thread: Tangential Tool Holder|
When I made my tangential holders I used 12* for side clearance and end clearance for a 1/4" bit. After seeing the quality of finish produced by the round bit I will be making a tsngential holder for a round bit.
|Thread: Questions about lathe power feeds.|
I had a Pratt & Whitney 14 x 30 that had identical feeds in X and Z.
My other lathes, 13 x 30 Clausing Metosa and Nardini 16 x 40, had X feed equal to half the Z feed. All three machines had a drive rod for the power feeds separate from the lead screw.
My South Bend 10K has a keyway the full length of the leadscrew. That allows the lead screw to act as a drive rod for the feeds. There is an interlock to prevent the half nuts being engaged when the feeds are being used.
I am in the US and the Pratt & Whitney lathe had a Buck and Hickman property tag on it. I am guessing it was shipped to England in the early 1940s. What surprised me is that it made it back to the US.
|Thread: Machine Tool Peripheral Hoists|
I have an old Sky Hook. I use it occasionally to put the vise or rotary table on or off the mill. It is inconvenient to set up. I had considered using it on the lathe to handle the 60 lb. chucks. It seemed like too much bother to lift the hoist into position every time I needed to change a chuck. I had a jib crane that mounts to the receiver for the trailer hitch.
I made a pedestal for it that is anchored to the floor. It handles the chucks quite nicely.
|Thread: Workshop Gloves|
I usually work bare handed. I learned the hard way about gloves and machinery. My left hand is mangled due to wearing gloves when using a table saw.
|Thread: Long Square Stock|
Oops! I forgot you said square stock. A sleeve that fits the square corner to corner is needed if using a steady rest.
Tap the outboard end until it runs true. Center drill it. Set the center in the end of the bar, then go back anf true up the chuck end.
Option: center the outboard end with a steady rest before center drilling.
Are you sure your chuck is tight against the shoulder of the spindle? (Only if you have a threaded spindle.
|Thread: A polite question - from a beginner :) Drilling a NONE wandering hole|
My way of assuring the hole is true is to pilot drill, then open the hole with an end mill, then drill it out to the correct size. The end mill is short and rigid so it barely deflects. Its square end will not tend to follow the pilot hole. I think of the end mill as a poor man's jig bore reamer.
|Thread: Internal threading question|
Check the size of insert used and confirm it is capable of the 2mm pitch.
|Thread: Annoying milling cutter diving into the work|
Check the recommended tightening torque for your collet. As I recall the ER16 should be tightened to around 100 ft. lb. Also consider a ball bearing collet nut. It gets a lot more hold on the tool shank than the plain nut. I know I seldom get the proper torque on my ER32s. It would involve using cheater pipes on the spanners.
|Thread: Insert facemilsl, correct use on hardened Steel.|
It may not be the pocket that is bad. M tolerance inserts have a .002 to .005 inch variation. Check the inserts as well as the pocket.
|Thread: Look what I Found|
After I bought my first hammer drill I gathered up all the star drills in my possession and binned them. I do have an adapter for an air chisel to take the A taper bits. I haven' gotten around to pitching it. It is free to anyone who will pay the postage.
|Thread: Milling a 45 degree 'v' slot|
I made long Vs by first milling a slot at the centerline deep enough to go past the apex of the V. I milled the V using an M A Ford 6 flute 90* countersink, carbide tipped. It gave a far better finish than an end mill ground to a 90* point. The big advantage is eliminating the need to tilt the work or the head of the mill. Just set it in the vise, using a work stop if making multiple parts.
|Thread: Power feed - 'which motor shall I buy'?|
Stefan Gotteswinter had a series of videos using a wiper motor for the X drive.
Myfordboy made videos with a stepper for the X drive. Both are on YouTube
|Thread: Advice on lathe Threading tools|
The most vesatile bar for internal boring or threading is a plain steel bar with square broached holes at the ends. One is at right angles to the axis of the bar. The second is at 30* or 45* to the axis. HSS bits are used and are ground to the profile needed. Use the largest bar that will fit.
|Thread: Die grinder or dremel - relieving cast iron|
I have a Dremel in addition to pneumatic and electric die grinders with 1/4" collets. I would never consider a Dremel or similar tool for that much metal remover. Now that I have a compressor capable of driving the air tool it would my first choice. The electric die grinders are suitable to the job but are heavier and less comfortable to use.
|Thread: Square thread cutting|
To answer the original question: A grooving tool us not suitable for cutting square threads because there is insufficient clearance on the leading edge of the tool. The clearance on the leading edge must exceed the helix angle of the thread.
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