Here is a list of all the postings John Reese has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Is this a good deal?|
The Draper looks like a much more rigid machine than the Seig. While less convenient than a variable speed machine the Draper's step pulleys give you mare available torque at low speed than you can get with variable speed drives. The Draper is also fitted with a DRO. The downside of the Draper is the round column. If you have to raise the head you lose x-y position.
|Thread: Best "v" thread form|
A wider root like 60* will give a bit more strength at the root as would a radius. Unfortunately many taps are ground to a sharp point which exacerbates the problem of breakout. A UNJ tap or the metric equivalent will give the greatest root strength. Check the length of screw engagement to see if that is a contributing factor, ie, insufficient engagement.
|Thread: Threads on DTI’s|
Large flat contact tips are readily available and quite inexpensive. It is hardly worth making one. Check with MSC.
Contact tips are available up to 2" dia.
Starrett back plunger indicators had a male thread on the plunger. The kit included an adapter so standard 4-48 indicator tips could be used. The back plunger kit came with 2 female thread tips that fit the plunger.
|Thread: Single point tool to cut an internal 5/8-10 LH ACME thread|
Free-hand grind a piece of 1/8" or 3/6" HSS. Take a piece of 1/2" silver steel. Mill or saw & file a slot in the end to fit the tool bit so the top of the bit is on centerline. Silver braze the bit into the slot. Use a cutoff wheel to remove any of the bit sticking out the back of the shank. Contour the back of the shank so there are no projections.
It is easier to grind a long bit than a short one. Keep the bit full length until it is ground to the right contour.
You will probably have to wind the tool back to the beginning as there may not be enough clearance to simply withdraw the tool. It depends on the amount of bit stickout.
You can simplify tool grinding if you angle the the trailing edge of the bit to the flank angle. Then only the leading edge of the bit need be ground. Of course that requires the slot in the silver steel be at the same angle.
|Thread: How do you stop brass tarnishing|
From Clickspring videos: clear lacquer thinned by half.
|Thread: Best "v" thread form|
This explanation is going to be a bit simplistic. For any given pitch the thread thickness at the pitch line is the same regardless of the flank angle. That thickness represents the area in shear that resists stripping of the thread. Actually the total shear are is the tooth pitch line thickness multiplied by the length of the pitch line helix for the length of thread engagement. That length will be identical for a given diameter and pitch. The flank angle of the thread will make little, if any, difference in stripping force for the same length of engagement.
|Thread: David Wilks, Sheffield.|
I believe he sold his shop to another company. He was employed by them for a while. That is from memory. I would have to reciew his later videos to be sure.
|Thread: Wanted - Brass tube bending|
Most brass tubing I have seen was hard drawn. Annealing would be in order before bending. The radius of the bend looks large enough to allow bending without the need for filling with sand, ice, Woods metal, etc. As the radius of the bend is not specified tbis is my best guess.
|Thread: When buying a second hand machine tool, would you prefer a rebuilt machine or a project?|
A freshly painted machine is a red flag for me especially id there is paint where it should not be. Lipstick on a pig.
|Thread: Ferrous, facing, HSS tool geometry|
I made up a couple tangential tool holders. The tool shank slopes 12* in both directions and the end of the bit is sharpened at about 30*. It gives an excellent finish either turning or facing.
|Thread: Lathe Drilling|
I often see videos of drilling in the lathe. It is common to see the centerdrill move laterally as the point begins to penetrate the work. That tells me the tailstock is not aligned with the spindle. Many times this is due to the front of the tailstock base being worn, or the quill is loose in the tailstock body. If the base is worn shims can be placed between the tailstock base and the body.
|Thread: CAD program that can import PDF for scaling|
Microsoft store has a free PDF to DXF converter. You can import DXF into most CAD software.
Check out PDF to DXF conversion software.
|Thread: Turning, Milling and Drilling Speeds|
If you have an iPhone there is FS Wizard or FS Wizard Pro that you can download. Don't know about Android phones.
|Thread: Is there such a thing as an 'external reamer'?|
I am not sure if anything was sorted out.
An approach that was not mentioned is adapting a dial indicator to the cross slide. Many machinists use a magnetic back dial indicator to make saddle or cross slide travel repeatable.
|Thread: Grinding tool bits|
Something that helps grinding HSS: replace the blue aluminum oxide wheels with friable white aluminum oxide. Many dealers that cater to woodworkers sell the white wheels.
Congratulations. It is very difficult to create a tool that will break chips in wrought aluminum.
|Thread: Special cutter to create valve guides|
If OP had shown the dimensions defining the recess He would have received better advise. The rendering of the part shows features impossible to machine unless the valve guides were separate pieces pressed into the head after the fins were cut. Whoever designed the head had no understanding of how to machine it.
It always helps to know what equipment the OP has available so we could suggest solutions that best fit the tools available.
If OP had a lathe with a faceplate and a 20* wedge this could be a lathe job.
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