Here is a list of all the postings HOWARDT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Multiple vee-belt lathe drive|
Matched belts still have a tolerance and looking at the web this can be 0.15inches for upto 50+ inch length. So what you are seeing after running is probably this difference times the number of revolutions. Link belting can't be matched there are too many connections to get two anywhere close to the same length. Poly-vee belts are ideal, as they are cut to width from a single belt, just ensure that the pulley shafts stay parallel when adjusting. From your message though I think you are looking for a problem that isn't there, as you didn't say your machine made more noise than a similar machine just that you read that it can be so.
|Thread: Parting off - again, sorry|
I work on a Sieg SC3, use a HSS-Co8 parting blade clamped in a home made holder that clamps the blade in the side face. The blade has no top rake, only ground on the front. HSS-Co8 is much tougher than a straight HSS blade, the ones I use are I assume Chinesium but they work. When I first had the lathe I had a carbide insert holder, but gave up on it after having to use a HSS blade when the supplier was shut.
Saddle is clamped to the bed, after positioning. Compund slide is tightened but not fully clamped, the reason for this is so I can make a wider cut than the single blade width. I do this so that the swarf clears the side of the blade, I take a plunge cut, then move slightly to the side to take a second as I move the blade in. Cutting speed is around 400RPM, dependant on diameter, adjust to suit diameter as you feel confident. Don't overhang the compound slide from the cross slide as this will allow movement on a small machine. I have cut unto 75mm diameter in steel, it took time but it did cut. Use a cutting oil to keep the tip cool, I use a spray cutting fluid from Toolstation. Most of my work is with steel, softer metals like brass and phosphor bronze are less of an issue.
|Thread: G-gem gib or g-golf -gib?|
In my fifty odd years in machine tools, with contacts both here in the UK and abroad, always used and heard with a hard g. Although use of a gib is now reducing as we use linear ways more.
|Thread: What bearings for a submersible wheelchair?|
Have a word with Igus, very helpful on material selection for their bushes and not expensive. Their catalogue is good if you can navigate your way through it.
|Thread: Grinder safety|
In a word, no. Guards on rotary tools are to prevent personal contact as well as directing or containing material created. In a single person environment it is up to the individual as to what precautions he takes as far as HSE is concerned, although if personal insurance is concerned that may be a different matter. You tubers should give a warning of correct use. One I saw recently did in use of CBN wheel use and used personal protection, ie glasses. The other reason they may use a wider wheel than the original guard will accommodate, so just remove it.
|Thread: Steel for machining|
If you are are talking of an arbor support bracket, then I would go with a flamecut blank. Steel specification is not critical but you may find 080M40 (EN8) and 080A52 (EN43) as being most common. Cast iron Grade 250 can be expensive in big sizes.
|Thread: Lathe or Mill?|
I think it would depend on the size of machine. A larger lathe would give you good rigidity and travel for a vertical slide on which to mount pieces to mill, a 7" mini lathe is a little to limiting in rigidity and travel. A vertical mill from a mini mill, Sieg SX2 type can be used with a bit of ingenuity to turn small parts, either rotating in the spindle or mounted on a rotary table. I have both an SX2 mill and an SC3 lathe but find it easier to turn bigger diameters on the mill due to power limitations of the lathe. Now if only I had a Bridgeport and a Colchester!!
|Thread: What Compressor for Car Lift Air Powered Locks|
Small air intensifier. Although there must be standard circuits for these things, including all the safety interlocks.
|Thread: Cycle chain drawing|
The circle command is TTR, tangent-tangent-radius.
|Thread: Cyclone Vacuum Separator|
Done the shopping. Vacuum cleaner currently at Aldi is a simple all inclusive unit, not cyclone, just mesh filter.
Cyclones are used in machine tool coolant filtration units. Dependant on coolant flow they can be very good as secondary separation before paper filter systems. Latest Aldi system appears to be a complete vacuum cleaner not just an ash can, will have a look tomorrow while doing the weekly shop.
|Thread: Canon Printer in Aldi|
Ady1, try using thicker paper. I've found using 90gm paper reduces the problems of incorrect feed, 70gm seems like tissue paper these days.
|Thread: Carriage slipping|
Check that if fitted the half nut lever detent is working correctly, mine fell out recently.
|Thread: Wadkin surface grinder.|
Have a look here. **LINK**
|Thread: Workshop working tolerances|
How accurately can you measure. A shaft can be fairly easy to measure whatever the diameter, but a hole is entirely different. Unless you have inspection room gauging equipment just make it fit.
|Thread: Understanding plans.|
I think Alastair would be better finding someone close to him who could show him a drawing and associated parts. This would be by far the simplest way to explain the basic principles. The details of drawing content can be then explained as no two drawings will be the same. As a life long designer both on the board and computer I know the problems people can have interpreting a drawing to visualise a three dimensional part. Reference to standards is OK but most drawings don't. Standards can be company, country, international or do what you think best in the circumstances. An hour spent expelling in person will save a lot of time wasted typing suggestions.
|Thread: Locomotive wheels|
i know we can buy cast wheels for most locomotives and tenders etc. I am in the process of building a 3 1/2” Evening Star. As an excercise I made the pony wheels in steel. Now looking at the tender I have some suitable diameter 250 cast iron from which I can make the spoked wheels. Now the question, what do you make your steam loco wheels from? For any argument this is a UK based question.
Knew someone who worked at Enots, he said solder less fittings were created to save on the expense of having to have a fire marshal on hand when soldering in large buildings. I suppose an insurance thing for large companies.
|Thread: How long to build?|
I machined my 3 1/2" Evening Star cylinders from solid, casting and material set from dealer nearly £300, I haven't spent that on all the materials I have bought so far and have a reasonable range. It also gives you good machining practice and workshop practice in figuring out the best process so you can hold the part. Castings can be awkward to hold if you have limited experience.
Find a good local metal supplier and buy lengths that fit in the car rather than just the piece you want. I found a supplier who has lots of offcuts and I mostly buy them, the odd piece I have to get cut if i can't find anything. Sometimes you only get charged for the expensive bits, the others are treated as scrap.
The question begs how many parts are made from raw material. Obviously buying castings will speed things up as well as laser cut parts, or go the whole hog and buy a kit of machines parts. At the moment I am trying to build Evening Star in 3 1/2” from scratch with the purchase of a few of the more awkward parts as castings including the wheels. I’ve probable spent a 100 hours this year starting again from scratch and got the frame and cylinders complete. Don’t expect to have it finished any time soon, but then it’s the build that I am interested in more than driving it round a track.
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