Here is a list of all the postings HOWARDT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parting off tool - straight or angled.|
I use the 1.5 x 10 M42 plain with angled sides. Much stronger than the plain hss bit.
|Thread: Issue Reading New Digital Viewer|
Just read through this thread and thought I would give the latest issue a try, 4605 ME. On my Mac desktop digital view is through a HTML 5 Reader, all works magnifies, no problems. Print a full page, right hand menu to select page to print, scale print down to print onto A4 single sheet, 75% to get it within the paper border on a laser printer, all ok. All reads OK on my iPad and iPhone, Windows 7 laptop sits in its bag unloved.
|Thread: Keyway cutting|
Needed to do a couple of keyways in some new drive pulleys for my mini lathe. Milled the slots under size then filed them to fit. Depth is not critical and width can be controlled with a small file easily enough. Both now fitted and lathe back working.
|Thread: Silver steel or stainless?|
If threading a short length to a shoulder is a problem then add a washer, thickness to suit to give the right length of thread. That way there is no need for an undercut and you can put a good radius to the face and a corresponding chamfer on the washer.
|Thread: Intended function of gib screws|
Regarding the grubsrew end form. Both will work equally as well, since there is more than one screw in contact. Any error in position between the gib dimples and the tapped holes means contact will made on one side with posibly the first tightened having full position contact.
|Thread: Difficulty with gears for some thread pitches. (mini lathe)|
Have a look here. I made this a while ago, makes life easier.
|Thread: Material hardness in raw state|
Any flame hardening steel will achieve this to some depth, or do you require a through hardened steel. In which case look at the tool steels used for mould making. If its commercial Carrs Steel over Birmingham way are very good at giving you a good selection so long as you can furnish them with correct answers to the questions.
|Thread: Milling and drilling slate|
It will depend on what the slate is like, some is quite soft and laminar, other is more solid. I have drilled some slate with an ordinary HSS twist drill and it sanded quite easily. If you apply water you will need enough to ensure that it is being washed out of the hole while drilling. I would probably do small pecks, drill and withdraw, and blow the dust away, far less messy.
|Thread: SENSITIVE DRILLING|
You also would need to use drills ground to cut brass, not standard HSS drills for cutting steel.
So i am sure many have used this type of chuck holder successfully, but a sensitive drilling machine is usually a vertical machine with a hand moved quill, usually through rack and pinion, by a hand wheel that gives positive feed back. That is, you can feel the force you are applying to the drill to feed it through the material being drilled. The size of the machine varies according to the maximum size of drill. Small bench machines are available which have high speed and sensitive quills to drill small holes. A standard 12 or 16mm chucked pillar drill will be capable but feedback will be less and will result in more broken drills.
|Thread: Intended function of gib screws|
Bill, as others have said the existing grub screws with locknuts are intended, or should be, to locate and set the gib to give the required sliding fit to allow axis movement. An additional central, to the length of the gib, screw without a locknut should be used for applying an additional locking force to prevent movement of the axis. The seller is trying to convince you that what they are selling is correct in having a locking feature that is doesn't have. Modify yourself or return if the selling blurb say's it has locking.
|Thread: Use of Colour on Drawings|
I don’t care, the most important is to have all the information and be readable. You do have to remember to consider how the drawing may be reproduced. Not all have access to a full colour A0 printer may be just a A4 black only. Others may only want to view on screen.
|Thread: Custom shape Electric radiator|
**LINK**. Could give these a ring. Not specifically what you want but remembered looking here in past. May be able to point you in the right direction.
|Thread: Hello from Leicestershire|
Hi Pete. Welcome. I am just to the north of Leicester, so not far where ever you are.
|Thread: Small Milling/Drilling Spindle (again)|
Igus L250 flanged bearing, not read the specs but certainly smaller so long as thrust is light. Maintaining endfloat may need a spring loaded end thrust face but as diameters are small will work. Spring could be wavy washer.
Use a combined needle and ball thrust running on hardened shaft. Shaft would need to be ground to attain best fit.
|Thread: SX2p mill taper extraction|
I have an SX2P, which is now nearly three years old, and always strike the drawbar with a hammer, and sometimes not too lightly. Original ball bearings are still in place and no sign of wear or damage to the raceways. The tool you have made will split the tapers but since both are soft some damage may be done to the end faces were you contact. these face don't come in contact so it will only be cosmetic. I have always struck tapers to separate nd will contuse to do so.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Got new HTD pulleys fitted to SC3 to replace non standard belt drive as fitted. All works fine, a little more noise than original belt.
|Thread: Leaking camera batteries|
Methylated spirit is recommended to neutralise the deposit, if I remember right!!
|Thread: Bearing puller from hell|
Seals are standard scraper seal and rod seal in rod end bush with muli-part piston assembly comprising of double acting seal and wear rings. One thing omitted is the finishing of the cylinder bore. He welded a boss on which would then necessitate possibly reaming and honing to get the required size and finish.
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