Here is a list of all the postings Kettrinboy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: M.E.S RT3 - rotary table kit|
Ive found the drawing you need on the Dore Westbury yahoo group , I took a screenshot so I could download it to my album as a jpg file , so save this pic and then zoom in to see the details .
<Edit> afraid I've had to remove this as I understand the MES deigns are likely to be sold commercially in the near future. Perhaps Geoff can help Frances out direct? - Neil
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 13/08/2018 09:24:55
|Thread: Ainjest High Speed Treading Unit on my new Master 2500|
At work we had 4 Colchesters . 2 Triumph 2000.s and 2 Master 2500,s all had Ainjest quick threaders fitted , 3 imperial and 1 metric , for batch production of components with threads on they saved no end of time and for threading close up to a shoulder again they really score over conventional screwcutting , a couple of things to watch though are not to forget to disengage the trip lever underneath after finishing threading or you can bend it if the carriage is moved too far and when engaging the threading lever make sure its a firm engagement or sometimes it can half engage and bugger the thread up , otherwise they are a very useful addition to a lathe.
|Thread: Harrison l5 top slide|
Yes just loosen the two nuts and it should then rotate , there are no pins just two T bolts that rotate in a slot in the crosslide , sounds like yours may be rusted up so a bit of penetrating oil and a mallet should shift it.
|Thread: harrison L5 screwcutting|
The 127 will go on the bottom , 60 idler on the middle and 70 on the top stud , the tail end sleeve should unscrew so you that you can then fit a bigger gearwheel on the top stud , well at least mine does , ive only needed to do it once to get an 85t wheel on.
|Thread: TDA2030A Audio Amp|
Back in the mid to late 70,s when i was a teenager into electronics and hifi these BI-KITS modules were a very popular way to build a cheap amp , these AL60 ones in the pic rated at 25 watts rms i think , are spares ive had kicking around in the loft for over 40 yrs in case my original amp build blew up , which it never did ,despite a lot of full volume abuse , well thats what you did back in them days , all you needed were a pre amp module , a power supply module and transformer and a couple of power amp modules , get a suitable case connect them all up with some speaker and din sockets and some switches and hopefully you would have a decent audio amp , wish i still had my original one but it got given away decades ago.
Edited By Kettrinboy on 12/02/2018 18:13:08
Edited By Kettrinboy on 12/02/2018 18:15:50
|Thread: Harrison gear box|
From memory when i last looked into the headstock of my L5 its held on to the bed by 4 big allen bolts and i dont think you can get them out without removing some of the shafts which would be a pain in the neck , last time i moved my L5 around the shed i used 3 x 20mm steel bars as rollersunder the cabinet and a standard size crowbar and it was a one man job.
|Thread: Stirling Engine Tolerances/Clearances|
On my engines with a displacer dia of 25 - 40 mm i make the cylinder 1.5 mm bigger than the piston and this has worked well on the 7 engines ive made so far.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Ive got a 25ft ash tree in my garden that needs cutting back a bit so yesterday I took delivery of a Fiskars telescopic pruner which would be just the job I thought for reaching the highest branches , but after getting all the wrapping off I found that during transit some careless plonker had managed to snap the sliding inner tube that carries the cutting head completely in two ,my first thought was to send it back but after looking at the tube I thought no I can fix this myself , its thin walled aluminium tube of three quarter round section so the only viable solution was a split sleeve to join the two ends, so after 3-4 hrs of work today on the lathe and mill its fitted and works a treat , just shows the usefulness of having an equipped workshop ,mines certainly got me out of the poo numerous times now over the years and will do again in the future no doubt.
|Thread: Unheated garage ok for a lathe?|
My Harrison L5 has survived 35 yrs in an unheated workshop , as long as all the exposed metal is oiled when not using it the months from Oct to March then no rust sets in , I dont cover it as if you miss oiling a bit at least you will spot it rather than a spot hiding under a cover and rusting for months , just the motor I cover with a heavy cloth to keep damp out and it has always run fine by the time winter has gone , the biggest challenge is stopping all your small tools like taps , dies , drills and cutters etc going rusty , everthing needs covering in WD40 or else one night of bad damp can turn everthing rusty.
|Thread: Plastic for gears|
I have several nylon gears in my Harrison L5 changegear set and when i needed one of them for cutting the thread in the backplate for a new chuck I was a bit worried if it would stand the load from cutting a 1.5 " X 6 TPI thread in cast iron but it did it fine , dont know if it would have done it if it had been a tufnol gear though , and a bonus is the geartrain runs a lot quieter with a plastic gear in it because as anybody with a Harrison knows the steel gears can ring a quite a bit at higher speeds.
Edited By Kettrinboy on 21/03/2017 18:03:38
|Thread: Trepanning a deep hole in en24t|
I think the stress on both you and the lathe attempting something like this would take years off your life expectancy, as previously said the swarf off 24t is not that easy to break into chips on this type of operation and would wrap itself around in the groove and cause a jam up , better spend a bit more money on materials and make the parts the easy way.
Edited By Kettrinboy on 16/03/2017 08:11:24
|Thread: Machining Titanium on a Hobby Lathe. Is it a good idea?|
Its certainly possible to turn Ti in a hobby lathe , the most important rule is the tool whether carbide or HSS must be sharp and use speeds and feeds a bit slower than you would for tough steel , drilling needs care as a dulled drill used dry can melt and end up welded into the hole but use a new drill with plenty of coolant or neat cutting oil and it will cut ok , tapping a thread can also be difficult , you will probably find most of your home workshop taps wont even touch it and if they do will make a tortured creaking noise if they do manage to cut , but there are specially ground taps available which cut it pretty easily, ive made loads of parts from 6al4v and 6242 alloys for motorbikes ie nuts , bolts , spindles , spacers etc and also the displacer pistons and cylinders on several of my hot air engines so do have some experience.
|Thread: Telephone Scam ??|
For the last 10 yrs or so whenever i get a call , if i hear silence or office noise for more than 2 secs I hang up , if its anybody i know they know to speak immediately anyway or they call back if they miss the 2 sec cutoff , i think a lot of people especially the elderly are too polite to put the phone down with these scummers and can then get hoodwinked into handing over their banking details etc, with me they will never even get the chance .
|Thread: Another Acme Thread Question!|
I,m definitely a convert to plastic nuts , my Dore Westbury MK1 mill leadscrew nut stripped out and rather than try the moulding a new nut from acetal method i just made a whole new nut from acetal billet and got a new 1/2" x 10 TPI ACME tap from RDG tools and it was easy to tap a 40mm length of thread , with bronze unless you can rough the thread out in the lathe before you put the tap up it to finish the last few thou then it will need a lot of force to tap a 5TPI thread just with the tap alone as bronze is not the easiest stuff to tap a thread in , the plastic nut on my mill has lasted 3 yrs now and done a lot of work the backlash is still 10 thou which is the same as when i first made it.
|Thread: Lubrication quetion for Harrison L5A|
Ive got a 63 L5 and at the rear of the headstock there is a combined filler and drain cock with a level sight glass , the drain screw is an allen grub screw in the bottom of the cock , the main spindle front seal is a labyrinth type on mine so maybe a thinner oil is more prone to leaking , i recently changed my headstock oil for a 68 weight oil which is around 20/30 SAE in place of the thicker old oil and now i have a slightly bigger leak than i had before from the input shaft that the clutch sits on but i will live with it , the front main spindle seal is still fine though , Harrison is now owned by the 600 group so from what ive heard on other forums a new spare if available wont be cheap..
Edited By Kettrinboy on 26/07/2016 07:57:40
|Thread: Parting with power cross feed|
Aluminium is not quite as user friendly as you might think for parting off , the softer grades especially need coolant or thin oil when parting off bigger dia stock as cut dry you can start to get a built up edge on the tip and then it will struggle and probably break or jam up in the cut.
Edited By Kettrinboy on 30/06/2016 07:30:56
|Thread: Harrison L5 new to me|
Now you have got the chuck off , when you refit it all it needs after making sure all mating surfaces are clean of dirt is a fairly gentle push to get it seated against the spindle register, the only time i would tighten it more firmly is if i was going to take a heavy cut with it running in reverse , as with it done up lightly it could unscrew the chuck whereas running in forward direction it will tend to tighten the chuck.
Edited By Kettrinboy on 12/06/2016 22:04:20
|Thread: Dore Westbury milling capacity|
as far as cutter holding is concerned i use MT2 collets rather than a chuck , it keeps cutters closer to the spindle nose and they run truer and also improves rigidity when using bigger cutters , that said though i must admit an ER16 or 25 chuck is handy for holding odd size drills and cutters.
Ive owned a DW MK1 for 35 yrs now , i think it was originally built in 1977-78, a 5 thou cut with a 6mm cutter is nowhere near what a DW in decent condition should manage , on mine a 6mm FC3 type cutter could do 2mm a cut in mild steel and probably 4-5mm in say 6082 aluminium with coolant which makes a big difference btw , as nearly all are home built the standards of machining vary a lot and i found that after i bought mine it needed the angular contact bearing housings in the quill sleeving and reboring as they had been made oversize , one of them was 10 thou over so nowhere near good enough and i also ended up having to make a complete new spindle at work as the morse taper in the spindle nose was 8 thou out of true and very ridged , plus the top keyways were way out of line, still having done all that and a few other details its been a damn good machine since , i wouldnt worry about not having the backgear , i only ever use that for slitting saw work but you could probably get away with using bigger pulleys to slow the spindle down enough for a smaller size saw , i find the 1/4 HP motor good for up to 12mm/1/2 inch cutters and bigger ones than that used with care, it was not meant to be a tool room standard machine nor a production machine but it was designed as a light hobby machine that was easy....ish to complete on a Myford/Boxford size lathe and so as long as you dont try to take big cuts and try to force it but just use feel to see what its capable of it does a more than good enough job for most modelwork , i,m still not tempted to go for a replacement yet as mine still does the job for me.
Edited By Kettrinboy on 03/06/2016 22:12:24
|Thread: Basic Clock Design|
just a thought but looking at the drawing on your original post you say what have i forgotten , so where are the frame stays going to go , i would think that the frame plates need to be a lot wider to accomodate probably 4 stays , unless you are going to have just 1 at either end of a narrower plate , ive got a similar design of clock nearly drawn up but my plates are wider so the 4 stays at each corner of the plates clear the outside dia of the barrel and largest wheels.
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