Here is a list of all the postings Martin Connelly has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: CNC engraved tool rack|
|Like lots of other things CNC seems hard until you have figured it out, then you think why did it seem so hard. Some things are easier to learn with someone walking you through the process but by far the best way to learn is to do it yourself. Often all you need to know is that something can be done so you are not going down a blind alleyway.|
I am curious to know why you did not drill the holes with the CNC mill. A rectangular array of drilled holes like that looks like a job that really suits CNC.
|Thread: Mystery Willard Lathe Tool|
|It is mine, I have a couple of different pitch cutters for it. Do you want photos with the cutter off? If so it will need to be in a few days from now as I am away from home.|
Looks similar to this.
This is a complete form threading tool. Without the cutting disk it looks similar tovyour holder.
|Thread: Hemingway Radius Grinding Attachment Ref: HK 1312|
With a 6mm diameter button insert and CNC you can do any radius over 3mm. With a 0.2mm radius insert and CNC you can form radii from 0.2mm upwards. If you make your own round cutter you only need to know the radius to be able to use it for its size and any larger radius.
If you use a wizard for basic CNC operations then to get a given radius set the radius in the wizard to the required value minus the tool's radius. So for a 6mm radius with a 0.2mm radius insert set he radius in the wizard to 5.8mm.
|Thread: Cast iron or Aluminium?|
You can buy a suitable chuck backplate and make it from that.
|Thread: Surface finish|
Bolts are not often machined from solid. The bar stock is cut off and one end heated then swaged out to form the head. This requires material suitable for this process and it also sets up a variable grain structure in the bolt. As a result bolts do not make good raw material as you are finding out.
|Thread: what tool is this?|
Could it be missing a tapered part that forces the pins out when the bolt is screwed in?
|Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling|
If you milled the 8mm slot past full depth first then it would be possible to make a small single edge cutting tool with a piece of HSS (even an old milling cutter that can be repurposed when at the end of its normal life). Rough out something like Ø14mm x 6mm deep knowing you have an easily sharpenable tool that does not need to be pretty or an exact size then clean up to size with the tee slot cutter.
|Thread: Small part holding|
Pin chuck or ER11 colletsfor small round parts.
|Thread: Simple and accurate home "switch"|
I have a repositionable z axis home/limit switch, it clamps on the ways. Having collets, a 4 jaw chuck and two 3 jaw chucks that are all different distances from the headstock makes use of manual data input (mdi) risky if you make a mistake with z axis movements. Also using as a home switch before work comences allows everything to be switched off when I want to stop (always saving fixture settings on exiting Mach3) . Re-homing next time I power everything up means the z axis is set without touching off the workpiece. I also have x axis homing for the same cold start reasons. Since I sometimes have to move the tool post from one tee slot to another calibrated tool holders and tool tables are not much use to me.
|Thread: Vertex Rotary Table equal 13 sectors|
If you have a 65 tooth gear index using that.
|Thread: Tungsten Alloy|
Duncan, did this get resolved? Tidying up I've just found a piece of tungsten copper 1/2" x 1" x 4" long that I found in a scrap bin at work some years ago. Kitchen scales say it's about 460g which works out to a density of about 14g/cc. Some shallow grooves on one side and some 3.5 dia holes about 3 deep on the other but plenty of usable material.
|Thread: How far to be off tool centre before a turned finish becomes poor?|
I set my tool to centre height with a steel rule on the bed and mark one eyeball. Tool height is 4". It is rare that I have no centre hole so I don't generally have centre pips to judge by. Seems to work fine. I believe the trick on larger lathes in industry was to set a tool to the correct height then use it to scribe a line on the tailstock barrel for future use.
|Thread: Squaring in the lathe|
A small angle plate on a faceplate and a square (or 1 2 3 blocks) should work. Just needs care with balancing everything and making sure nothing can fly off. Remember the cube does not need to be on centre.
|Thread: Is this Morse shank removable?|
It's possible that a standard chuck arbor has been used. The head could easily be made with a Jacob's taoer and the two parts pressed together. The gap would allow wedges to be used to separate the parts.
|Thread: DNMG110408 & CNMG090308 Inserts|
Bluntness is the nature of carbide inserts. Don't try taking off very small amounts on diameters with them. They may rub all the way along or they may get under the surface randomly resulting in a rough finish. They need to be taking a reasonable depth of cut such as 0.2mm or more for best rrsults.
|Thread: Straightening coiled small steam pipe.|
Torsion can straighten wire and soft tube. Plug the ends, solder may work, grip in lathe chuck at one end and tailstock chuck at the other. Use the chuck key to rotate the main chuck manually, should not take much rotation to straighten it.
|Thread: Some questions about a Collet Chuck|
I have an ER32 and a smaller ER11 (I think) with nominal Ø16 shanks. As far as I can measure without a temperature controlled workshop and un-calibrated mics and Vernier callipers (real Vernier, not digital) they are parallel and consistently Ø15.98. However I may just have been lucky and some out there may be a bit more variable.
|Thread: Confused about lathe.|
Ian, an earlier post says he's in lumpy Lincolnshire so probably the wolds but there are also hilly bits like the Lincoln Edge and around Grantham.
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