Here is a list of all the postings Martin Connelly has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New collets. Bankrupt now.|
People like Norbar tell you the formula to use for their torque wrenches (it varies from tool to tool) when using an offset tool like this. It is necessary because you can buy spigot connections for welding your own fitting onto. I have had flat ring wrenches heated and bent then cut off and welded onto spigot connectors and set using a torque meter so that they can be used around obstacles. A suitable torque meter and connection is the easiest way to set a torque with an extended tool.
Is there a different torque for ball bearing nuts compared to plain nuts?
|Thread: Autocad 2000 Cant draw at a chosen angle.|
|Thread: Use of Colour on Drawings|
I have spent a lot of time producing drawings for other people to use and have always used different line weights for edges as Martin J above preferres. The circle delineating the detail view in the example above is confusing because everything has the same line weight. I also add a 3D view when it will help and shade it only if it helps.
BS308 paragraph 8.3 "Choice of views" states:
"All views should be chosen to impart the maximum information clearly. Hidden detail lines should only be used where essential but should not be used for dimensioning.
NOTE. An isometric or similar view of a complex part or assembly may be of considerable value in the understanding of the drawing. "
Seems like a sensible methodology to me.
|Thread: Harrison L5 chuck datum|
Are the jaws in the correct slots or even correctly loaded (ie not one pitch of the scroll out of position). There should be plenty of information available regarding putting jaws into chucks if you google it.
|Thread: Woes of My Digimatic|
I have read that for some of these calipers as well as removing the battery you may need to short out the battery terminals to reset the electronics.
|Thread: First attempt at threading on a bantam - all didn't go well|
I have located a photo of a thread I cut with a carbide insert. This shows one way of ensuring the thread cutting is rigid enough to cut with low rpm and carbide. This was probably done at the lowest speed on my lathe, 66rpm.
|Thread: Milling for beginners|
You can get tap driving sockets from Snap On that can be held with a collet such as R8 but allow the tap to self align and move up and down a small amount. A bit like a cheap and compact tapping head.
|Thread: Hole cutter|
If you want to save the plug of material from the centre consider chain drilling from both sides then hacksaw to join the holes. If you can get a holesaw of the diameter you want you still want a "drain hole" or two through the block to let swarf fall out. Broaching cutters have flutes that feed the waste out but holesaws don't and clog up easily.
|Thread: First attempt at threading on a bantam - all didn't go well|
You can use carbide tips at any speed. They may work best at high rpm but as long as everything is rigid enough any speed above zero will work. As you have found out though carbide does not last long when under tension due to upward forces without support above it.
Regarding reversing the lathe when doing metric on an imperial machine or vice versa lots of posts saying do it but not many say back the tool away from the workpiece first, see Alan's item 2 above. It seems a lot of people who offer this advice assume it is an obvious step.
|Thread: Powerline question|
Were they all put in at the same time? Methods, regulations and materials change with time so some parts may be to later regulations. Old setups may be left untouched until a repair is done at which point the latest regulations will apply.
|Thread: Siezed Drill Chuck in a Tailstock|
20:52 on the 10 Jan he said eureka. Job done with ball joint splitter.
|Thread: Milling feed/speed question.|
I would suggest searching for JasonB's milling for beginners thread. Look at his videos and watch how fast he is turning the feed wheels and at the size of the chips coming off. Chip size is a good guide to correct feed rate. The rpm of the cutter should be similar to what is used for drilling. It is based on the diameter of the cutting tool and the material being cut. You can be too timid as well as too aggressive when cutting like this but the acceptable range is quite wide. Even with CNC where the numbers are programmed in the operator will often increase or decrease feed rates manually during a cutting operation based on how everything is going (all material varies from one batch to the next and even in the same piece sometimes).
|Thread: CNC engraved tool rack|
|Like lots of other things CNC seems hard until you have figured it out, then you think why did it seem so hard. Some things are easier to learn with someone walking you through the process but by far the best way to learn is to do it yourself. Often all you need to know is that something can be done so you are not going down a blind alleyway.|
I am curious to know why you did not drill the holes with the CNC mill. A rectangular array of drilled holes like that looks like a job that really suits CNC.
|Thread: Mystery Willard Lathe Tool|
|It is mine, I have a couple of different pitch cutters for it. Do you want photos with the cutter off? If so it will need to be in a few days from now as I am away from home.|
Looks similar to this.
This is a complete form threading tool. Without the cutting disk it looks similar tovyour holder.
|Thread: Hemingway Radius Grinding Attachment Ref: HK 1312|
With a 6mm diameter button insert and CNC you can do any radius over 3mm. With a 0.2mm radius insert and CNC you can form radii from 0.2mm upwards. If you make your own round cutter you only need to know the radius to be able to use it for its size and any larger radius.
If you use a wizard for basic CNC operations then to get a given radius set the radius in the wizard to the required value minus the tool's radius. So for a 6mm radius with a 0.2mm radius insert set he radius in the wizard to 5.8mm.
|Thread: Cast iron or Aluminium?|
You can buy a suitable chuck backplate and make it from that.
|Thread: Surface finish|
Bolts are not often machined from solid. The bar stock is cut off and one end heated then swaged out to form the head. This requires material suitable for this process and it also sets up a variable grain structure in the bolt. As a result bolts do not make good raw material as you are finding out.
|Thread: what tool is this?|
Could it be missing a tapered part that forces the pins out when the bolt is screwed in?
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