Here is a list of all the postings Peter Krogh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Soldering 304 grade stainless steel|
95% tin, 5% silver melts at 430 F. and was designed for 3xx food grade soldering. It's very much stronger than tin/lead solder and doesn't fatigue fail. It also works perfectly for soldering copper, brass, steel, bronze, etc.
Very easy to use, wets out very nicely, and doesn't oxidize.
The flux is an acid liquid.
Both should be available at any welding supply store.
DO NOT confuse this with the tin/zinc solders sold for copper 'lead free' joins. Tin/zinc is a horrible solder!
Edited By Peter Krogh on 18/10/2020 21:03:50
|Thread: Removing bang in self tappers|
The best tool I've found is a pair of well made toe nail clippers with edges that are truly flush and straight. The curved ones don't work as well. The edges can be gently worked under the head of the screw and will wedge the screw right out. With some care, drive screws can be removed without marking up the surface. If the flat sides of the edges are polished, and most clippers are, they won't mark.
I replace those things with screws or, on thin material like machinery cabinets, aluminum pop rivets.
Edited By Peter Krogh on 27/09/2020 22:01:08
|Thread: Facing parallel between centres.|
A plane is defined by three points in space. Two points make a line.....
Getting the centers sooooo close that one could 'flip' the part between the centers and have exactly the same plane????
That's what face plates are for......
|Thread: ASK FOR OR OFFER TO TALK HERE|
Very good, Neil and Bill! When one is isolating and caring for fragile family, things can be a bit lonely as well as hectic. Knowing there is someone who is willing to share or listen is very comforting.
I don't think I'll call Bill as there is 8 hours time difference. Fortunately we have nearby friends...
Hang in there!
|Thread: Torx head variant or faulty batch?|
The ones on the right were hex socket (see the hex indent around the socket) and were double stroked in the press. Note the nice hex indent on that one then look at the dish dent on the Torx screw. If the hex socket had by some miracle jumped out of the hex header and into the input of the Torx header......
Double stroke. Press clutch issue.
My opinion, of course.
|Thread: boiler parts|
Don't drill for the exhaust until you've screwed it into place and marked which way it should point. No shimming to get the thing clocked.
|Thread: Painting anodised aluminium|
Clive is right. Anodizing is an electrical process that "grows" aluminum oxide crystals on the surface of the parts. Unless otherwise specified the surface is then sealed by boiling in clear wax. This keeps dirt, etc., from penetrating and showing, and makes cleaning impossible. Soooo...
Whenever you will be painting the part, or for other reasons like brake rails, you must specify "Clear water seal." and you'll get the anodize minus the wax.
So to better the odds of the paint sticking: Clean the part perfectly with lacquer thinner and then boil the part in a water bath with a touch of soap. Probably won't get 100% but between the cleaning and the anodize texture the paint will surely stick. Better so if the paint is a solvent type.
I've designed and had built a ton of such parts and at one time could almost recite the MilSpec for most plating and coating processes. Oh that gives me a headache just remembering!
|Thread: Chucking a Small Octagon (Delicately and Accurately!)|
Edited By Peter Krogh on 17/08/2018 05:20:17
|Thread: How to drill holes in ABS plastic without splintering?|
Yes sir, that's good information!
|Thread: How to remove four jaw chuck screws?|
I've always used a pin punch about 4mm dia. and tapped 'em out from the front. The punch will just fit along side the screw and clear the chuck body. Don't use a precision punch, a plain 'ol hardware store one works fine, as you'll probably have to bang it smartly to get the yokes out. Heck, even a stout nail works...
|Thread: what is this tool for?|
With only two 'sides' to expand it would need to be rotated to expand a tube in stages? This one has me very curious. I hope someone can identify it!!
Except for the short length, it looks very much like a dent removal tool for shot gun barrels. The ramps are too short for it to be a sensitive measuring tool. I suspect it's for use in tubular parts....
Hang all the Vincents!!
|Thread: Advantages of Hackworth Valve gear?|
Very much simpler. For an 'improved' Hackworth, look up Marshal gear.
|Thread: Ten Useful Things|
A (huhmm) tip for those that make tips from copper for soldering irons. I learned this for the old copper bits heated in a furnace but have applied it to any copper: When shaping the tip is finished, coat the tip with silver brazing alloy. The tip will last a loooonnngggg time.
|Thread: Wind vane project|
A simple eddy current brake. The ready availability and low price of Neodynium magnets has made such dampers easily affordable for us to play with. I love thinking about some new gadget to mess with.....
|Thread: Grease suitable for a lathe chuck scroll|
Hopper, are there any specification markings for that grease? It sounds just like the kind of grease I've been looking for!!
|Thread: Merry Christmas!|
And from the Pacific North West of the USA, to all of you, have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
|Thread: Not an industrial injury, but...|
I'm wishing I'd known about 'laying' years ago. I would have planted something suitable just so I could try it! There's a lot of wire fence I'd like to replace with a layed hedge.
We don't have hedgerows that I know of. We do have fence lines that grow wild and that's where the critters are!
Thank you all for the enlightenment!
Thanks Gordon! I always knew you Brits were a bit batty about horticulture but just how many ways are there to tame a hedge are there?? More than a dozen it seems....
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