Here is a list of all the postings Ignatz has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Super 7 adjustments question|
Just another shoutout of thanks to all of you for the hints and suggestions. The spindle and cross slide adjustments have made a nice improvement in the lathe's performance.
Now that the spindle and cross slide have been seen to I also took the time to proceed with final leveling out of the lathe bed using the suggested method of cutting a test bar. A few tweaks to the bed screws brought that round right. I do note a bit of bed wear at the headstock end, but of course to be fair, this lathe is getting on 26 years of age and I'm by no means the first owner (second? third? fourth?). If I really want to drop some coin on this, that machine shop up in Holland does offer regrinding services, but I'm thinking that I'll first see how the lathe performs for me before taking any big (and doubtless expensive) decisions.
I gave some attention to that feed screw collar, tightened it up as much as possible without totally locking up the works. The backlash in the cross slide feed screw advance is now reduced to something around 10° of rotation of the handle. Relative to the previous amount when I first started these adjustments this feels more or less like 'immediate' response and is something I can absolutely live with.
If I really wanted to go crazy, there is a conversion kit offered by Vintage Tools in the Netherlands that replaces the end plate with a new one that uses thrust bearings. But it might be a bit of overkill for me. Vintage Tools Conversion Kit
Yes, already figured out that part about winding the cross slide all the way in before tightening the end plate, but I will go back and double check the feedscrew collar. The backlash is already drastically reduced, but I don't mind trying to make it a bit better if at all possible.
I've just spent a quiet hour or so, following the advice (re)adjusting my Super 7.
It all seems to be 'sweetness and light'.
As an added bonus, this second time around while setting the gib on the cross slide I happened to notice that the screws retaining the cross slide feed nut were loose. Tightened those up and as you can guess this has definitely reduced the cross feed backlash. ( Me doin' a happy dance! )
Now that the warm weather has finally settled in I found time to give my new (old) Myford Super 7 a closer inspection. In doing so I realized that both the spindle as well as the cross slide needed some attention.
The main spindle seemed to ‘bottom out’ when subjected to end force as when tightening up a live center in the tailstock against the workpiece. As for the cross slide, it seemed just a bit too easy to move, suggesting that that the gib needed to be snugged up.
Now, in both cases the Myford Super 7 manual has fairly clear instructions as how to adjust both the main spindle clearance as well as the cross slide. I dutifully followed those instructions and seem to have obtained good results. Unfortunately, what seems to be missing from the manual are clear and definite measurements such that I do not think that I can reliably judge the end results of these procedures.
In the case of the main spindle, to quote from the manual:
“… Move the ball bearings and spindle back until the spindle cone contacts the tapered bush and will not rotate, i.e. to a condition of no clearance. Clearance can now be set by moving the spindle forward from this “solid” position by a ¼” rotation of the rim of the locking rings (i.e. 15 degrees). This provides a preliminary setting which may be varied according to running conditions.”
What does this mean in reality? How far would the spindle move forward away from the headstock from the no clearance position in order to provide the ideal space between spindle cone and bush for an appropriate oil film? And how would I know if I accidentally moved the spindle too far? Would this result in greater amounts of workpiece deflection away from the centerline when cutting? How should I measure this?
[ Just to note that following the adjustment that I have already made, the measured runout of the spindle both on the exterior and within the ground Morse taper of the spindle (not running and with no load) is at or very slightly less than 0.01mm (= 0.00039 inch) which seems OK. ]
A similar question presents itself relative to the issue of tightening up the gib on the cross slide. Here again I quote from the Myford manual:
“ ... remove the two screws securing the cross slide end bracket so that the cross slide itself can be pushed back and backwards and forwards across the saddle manually. The four cheese head screws in the top of the cross slide should be slackened off and then just nipped, and they should be in this condition whilst the necessary adjustments are made to the grub screws. “
Again, there is no quantification of what those 'adjustments' to the gib should be. So just how loose or tight is actually correct? Should I be trying to measure side play or something?
Any information or tips anyone can offer to these questions is richly appreciated.
Edited By Ignatz on 08/05/2022 14:52:54
|Thread: How to keep Paint Fresh?|
The only way that I know of to prevent this from happening is to eliminate all of the free oxygen in the pain container. This can be done by injecting a non-reactive gas that would displace the air in the container. Logical choices would be carbon dioxide, nitrogen or argon. Having said that, I freely admit that doing this requires some sort of ready-to-go apparatus (at least a small gas flask, valve and tubing), taking up a bit of space and very likely costing more than the paint it saves... not worth the time or trouble unless dealing with lots of cans of paint all the time.
Another trick I have tried (but with limited success) is to fashion a sort of floating 'lid' of aluminum foil to sit on the surface of the leftover paint in the tin. One still gets a bit of a skinning, but only at the exposed edges of the aluminum foil. To reuse the paint, slice through the foil and dip the brush. Nevertheless, given enoigh time the paint still wants to go off, albeit more slowly.
|Thread: unknown thread of this tap|
Just a thought....
Considering how fine the thread count is, I'm wondering if this wasn't a special tap for something in the camera/optical field.
|Thread: Is there a demand for Whitworth tools?|
I've had more than one occasion where I needed to use some sort of wrench size that I did not possess.
in these cases I would trot off to the flea market and buy the nearest size I could find, either smaller or larger than required.
The usual routine is then to pop a carbide cutter in the mill and open up a smaller wrench...
...or with a larger wrench first lay a line TIG welding along one of the jaws to close it up a bit before milling to size.
All sorts of ways suggest themselves to make those special wrenches you just won't find.
|Thread: Pulse Tig welding|
I would suggest the video link below as a good introduction to possible uses of the pulse feature.
My TIG welder also has the pulse capability. As Andrew pointed out this is NOT a cold process, rather it is a way to control heat input.
Especially on thinner materials, with a continuous arc not only melts the metal to form the weld bead, but also can add so much heat into the surrounding metal that the entire piece burns through before one has successfully welded it.
The pulse process allows the operator to define the on-off welding current time such that only the required amount of heat is used. Usually, this just means a more controlled welded seam, without dumping unneeded additional heat into the surrounding area. And, yes, the process can be so slowed down to the point that it is, in effect, a sequence of 'tacks'.
Another benefit of the pulse process that I might mention is that used at higher frequencies the pulsating arc agitates the weld pool and encourages a better blending together of two edges of butted metal.
Of course the pulse process is only another 'tool' and one usually has to practice a bit to find the correct pulse settings (frequency, on-time, base current). Best to do this on some scrap before you tackle the actual work piece.
One other use that I have found for the pulse process is smoothing out the edges of extremely thin cut metal (such as stainless steel). For this I set the pulses at a somewhat slow rate (something like 2 to 5 pulses per second) and the welding amperage only sufficient to 'bead' the edge but not cause it to melt back. In this way, I can run the pulsed arc along the edge of the metal, the series of little beads forming a smooth, rounded off edge.
|Thread: Super 7 questions|
@ john fletcher, ... I used that PTFE tape on the oil gun connection. First cleaned all the oil off of the threads (both inner and outer) and then gave three tight wraps of the teflon tape after which I tightened up the connection with two pairs of pliers - using suitable amounts of cotton cloth between pliers and fittings to avoid damage to the parts in question.
The oil gun now works a treat. No more leaks from that joint between the brass pump and the steel extension.
Of course, I still get a splash of oil should I not make a perfect connection between nozzle and oil fitting on the lathe, but that's all part of the fun, right!?
|Thread: How to Mount Collet Closer Chucks ?|
Jason, ... I totally agree... and my rough backplates are probably much too long as pictured.
@ega, ... I did check that drawing (thank you for posting), but the actual design of these two collet closers does not match the drawing.
If you reference the extra photos I posted (above) you will see that both closers end up with a flat face having four mounting holes. That flat face is not bolted on as an extra, but appears to be an integral part of the collet closer body. There is no threading to be seen... certainly nothing that would allow this to simply be spun onto a Myford spindle.
@Martin, ... you have a point there. Most of what I do on the lathe are bits of one-off's, so I'm not sure that I actually need these collet closers.
On the other hand, I confess to being curious and interested to try them out... even if only for a short time before selling them on if it comes to that.
I guess I'll have to machine at least one backing plate to give the collet closers a test.
I've thrown together a rough idea of what I think the collet closer backing plate would look like in my 3D program. Not sure about the over-all length, but certainly has to be long enough to allow for proper mating to the headstock spindle... and then not any longer than that to make it work, right?
Does one have to do anything special to compensate for runout? I know that with some nose-mounted collet chucks it is suggested that one leave a bit of play to allow for 'tapping in' the collet holder before snugging everything up tight.
Any feedback happily accepted.
Wow! Those things were expensive!
Here are some extra photos of the back side of the collet chucks.
Those mounting holes are not threaded, but simply counter sunk on the front side.
With the recent purchase of a Myford Super 7 lathe I also received these two, spindle-mount, lever operated collet chucks and a few collets for each one.
Now, I know that I have to affix that lever to some point on the lathe to make these work and I suppose I can figure that one out on my own, but, unfortunately, there are no threaded mounting plates included to transfer the rotation of the spindle to the collet closer..
I've searched the internet for information, made a search of the forum articles here as well, but can find almost nothing that gives me a clue as to how to go about machining a spindle mount for these and then getting them mounted and aligned.
Has anyone out there got this information?
|Thread: Super 7 questions|
@john fletcher ...
I seem to have found a Myford (franchise) distributor that offers the oil gun tip you are looking for...
... or at least I think so. You might have to check the threading of your nose piece and make an inquiry via email to be certain.
The website is in Holland.
A translation of the words on the web page:
Extension piece and nozzle for Abnox-Wanner oil gun for the old model oil nipples from Myford.
This concerns the small part next to the oil gun / oil gun not included.
Edited By Ignatz on 20/10/2021 07:40:05
John, ... I ordered that oil gun (complete with the tip) from Myford Ltd.
I don't think they offer that nose piece by itself.
Yes, I paid their (high) price as I felt the cost of the oil gun cheaper than ruining the main spindle of my lathe for lack of lubrication.
I'm including the link below.
Thanks, everybody for that information. I feel very much relieved about that oil-thirsty bushing.
On the topic of oil guns, yes, I have one of the Myford (Wanner) oil guns, but the thing has begun leaking at the join between the brass pump cylinder and Myford's add-on steel nozzle section.
I've tried tightening the connection, but it still leaks quite badly in use.
What would be the correct material for me to use to seal those threads? Teflon tape? Perhaps some Loctite product?
|Thread: Laminated Info|
Just acquired a Super 7 lathe to replace the aged ML10 and because the lathe is new to me I've been printing out copies of all sorts of information to have at hand out in the shop.
Of course, a machinist work environment is not exactly paper friendly, what with stray chips, oil, etc.
The obvious answer is to laminate that information to keep in clean. Nothing new in that one, but in addition to that I decided to help my old eyes by doing the following:
A) ... I scanned and then scaled up the information as large as possible.
B) ... I cleaned and tweaked the images using some graphics programs. (I'm kind of an artsy sort, but this bit is strictly optional)
C) ... After spitting out the pages on the laser printer I spent some quality time adding color to make some of the information more obvious.
The images below tell the story. The color highlights were added with watercolor paint, but felt tip markers or color pencil would do just as well. The laminated covering protects the color as well as the information.
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