Here is a list of all the postings Phil H1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Plans and castings|
The castings I have received from Kennions are very good but I also agree with Dave i.e., apart from wheels (maybe), I would try to use fabrication techniques of machine from solid in the future.
|Thread: china/India - Cop 26|
|Thread: What O-ring is this?|
I am really interested in the answer because I think I have the same or at least a similar torch. Does yours have the economiser trigger? Mine too is ancient but is still an excellent torch. I haven't used mine since the mid 1980s and even then it was ancient.
|Thread: DRO Z axis|
I have the small Chester 16V milling machine and I bought and fitted the standard X, Y & Z axis kit after seeing the advert on this site (the Z is on the movement of the head). I use the Z axis readout almost as frequently as the X & Y.
I am going to fit a simple quill device next year to help with drill depth settings.
|Thread: Boiler Formers|
Thanks Dave, excellent picture.
Would it be possible to take a couple of pictures of your outer wrapper to throatplate joint please. That looks like an interesting joint for round top boilers.
|Thread: LBSC 440 Virginia|
Roy, my Rob Roy build is on here and I am quite sure that I have all the known drawing errors. I can transfer them over to you whenever you are ready.
My opinion on the wheel/ axles..... I used a strong glue bond (from Kennions) on my wheels with pins late last year/ earlier this year and it worked really well. I made a wheel quartering fixture rather than using the lathe. The process was relatively easy. To me, the press fit appears to be less straightforward but others might disagree.
The drawing suppliers probably can't afford to collate and make the necessary changes. They are probably not making enough money out of selling the plans with their faults as they are It would actually be quite a task to do it and probably an endless task.
For example, attempts were made to modify and update Rob Roy drawings some years ago but the design is still a long way from being perfect. I recently attended a Rob Roy rally and it was actually quite interesting to see how the different builders had solved some of the issues. Every single engine (about 8 of them) was obviously based on the drawings and looked the same from a distance but were actually quite different close up.
I agree that it would be better to speak to somebody close. Are you in a club? Many of them still meet - safely of course- and I am certain that you will get a lot of advice and guidance.
The build manual should help but not only will it make assumptions, it is probably 60 years old and some things have moved on a bit.
The alternative is to start right at the beginning and post the pictures on here? You should receive loads of input. The start in a build manual is usually the main frames - so it sounds like a really good way to start by taking some shots, compare the dimensions to the drawings and ask away?
You have quite quickly made your decision regarding which engine which is a great start.
I'd get the drawings and manual (if there is one) to check the suspension issue that you might have and strip the whole thing back down to component parts. Even if that means removing/ drilling out the rivets. Why? If you don't do it now, I reckon you will end up doing it later and you will probably save a lot of time.
You might even end up re-skimming the wheels when you get round to measuring the run out, the quartering or the differences in diameter. Better to do it now than find that you can't get the coupling rods to fit properly later.
Make the frame casting pristine with a file and emery. It will take you about a day. Well worth it.
Just my opinion.
I have also struggled with the multi project problem. I resolved it by asking myself the following;
'If I only ever manage to build one and never get round to the others - for whatever reason - which would I regret not finishing?'
For me, the answer was easy.
|Thread: Bronze or brass|
Machining might be another indication?
For me, brass forms tiny irritating, short, sharp chips (irritating when they manage to get in your socks). Bronze that I have used always seems to form longer, ribbon type chips.
|Thread: TIG welded copper boilers|
I am not a welder but I agree that It is about time we moved forwards on TIG. Just a quick google says that TIG has been around since the 1940s. So it might be new to the Victorians who first built steam locomotives but it is not a new process.
|Thread: Mis-aligned hole in Stuart Half-Beam|
'Twice club'??? I've built my Rob Roy at least 3 times and it is still nowhere near finished.
Loctite bush sounds good.
|Thread: Taper reaming|
Misread your post
Edited By Phil H1 on 16/08/2021 14:23:32
|Thread: Dore-Westbury Mill|
If it is only sheet drilling - you could easily use the sticky paper method (stick a printed out drawing onto the sheet). That would surely be accurate enough for instrument panels?
My digital read out came from M-DRO for X, Y and Z axes (they did advertise on here). It was a fair few hundred £ and took a good few hours to fit. Also, their kit was specifically designed for my machine. It is good though.
If you look through the build series for all the old locomotives by LBSC and Martin Evans, this method for holding the cutters when using a vertical slide on a lathe is very common - almost standard.
Yes it would be better to get a proper chuck or collets for the reasons that people have given but I have used the same method many times without having a problem. Just be aware that it isn't the best method of holding a cutter if you continue to do it.
|Thread: Nu-tool Milling Machine|
Checking for wear?
X axis. My leadscrew and nut were very badly worn towards the middle of the travel. I removed the leadscrew and nut to examine the wear and it was in a terrible state. I suppose you could see if the backlash is worse or better at the ends and middle of the slide travel to indicate the same issue. The same for the Y axis.
Z axis. You could also check for backlash in the worm and wheel. Again, mine was in terrible condition and required an eccentric bush to be fitted to the operating shaft to reduce the backlash to a reasonable level.
I'd say that the bearings might be tricky to examine without removing or stripping. Perhaps just run it and see how quiet it is or isn't.
You could also take a picture of the nice clean, shiny table with no prangs or drill holes. If it does have some mistakes, it is only fair to take a picture of it for the new owner.
Having said all this. Why worry if your friend is selling it. Just advertise it honestly indicating that its age and say that it has been used and allow the new user to make his or her mind up. You could try and check the backlash without stripping it as best as you can. From Nigel's research and my experience, it looks like a fair price might be £600?
I had one of these a good few years ago. I foolishly bought it off e-bay for £600 which was probably too much. However, I moved it on at the exact same price.
Rogers warning is a good one regarding wear. My leadscrews on my ex machine were very badly worn.
|Thread: Ballaarat construction series|
I would have thought that the wheels can be taken from another design? Maybe even the cylinders too? There is bound to be an engine out there already with similar sizing?
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