Here is a list of all the postings Phil H1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Beginners question (sorry) - why I am breaking my small centre drills?|
A couple of possibilities;
The end of a new piece of silver steel is often hard and either needs to be heated and slowly cooled or the first 10mm cut off with a hacksaw before machining. You might already know that because you say that your larger centre drills are fine?
I once bought a couple of duff small centre drills that wouldn't cut - so are yours ok? You could check by using one on something like aluminium or brass - just to check it cuts ok.
Yep, very often, small centre drills are run too slow and they struggle - so you could as you suggest look at the speed. Lubrication helps but a quick dip with a centre drill shouldn't need that much - i.e., a quick squirt of oil of coolant if you have it.
|Thread: Replacing spoked balanced wheels with plain discs|
Perhaps somebody will correct my comments but I would be very surprised if the counter weight makes a significant difference on a small scale model engine.
You only need to look across the available wheel patterns/ balance weight configurations to see a wide variation and as Nick suggests, a couple of blind holes would soon sort the difference out if you are really concerned.
Are you considering discs to save the relatively high cost of castings?
I have a Super 7 with a handwheel and I did have an ML10. I simply add the cut length from where the dial is positioned. The mental sums are good for exercise for your brain. Actually, thinking about it, I don't have any adjustable collars
|Thread: Leaf spring deflection|
That's more than my wife!!! Is that the tender only or the engine and tender?
|Thread: Copper for boiler construction|
I don't believe that you will have a problem if you go and speak to your local club inspector. You sound like you have done the best you can to control the materials etc. I suspect he will be more interested in the bush materials and the silver soldering stages. Also, please check your drawing. Many of the old drawings use threads in the plates for longitudinal stays instead of bushes. These features might catch you out.
If we start with material certification, we are heading for a minefield that you simply won't get out of e.g., most ME suppliers won't have proper QA, most self builders live at home, with a home workshop and no QA department?? Even if you had certificates, there is no guarantee that the parts are made from the same stuff. The QA issues go on and on and on and never end.
|Thread: How to get that high end paint finish|
You are right of course i.e., use don't admire - but I repainted my lathe drip tray and cabinet about 8 years ago and it still looks immaculate. The odd scratch of course but it was well worth the effort. In my case, the lathe and cabinet had been stored in a cold damp garage from 1975 to when I took it. So the cabinet really did need attention.
I had to do the same to a Myford Super 7 drip tray and cabinet (minus the welding) because of age and rust.
The brushed red oxide primer instructions (oil based from Halfords) said that any paint could be applied over the top. So I tried some Halfords cellulose, grey spray primer. I had to apply several primer coats and use very fine wet and dry inbetween coats before the red oxide brush marks underneath 'blended in' to a reasonable level.
The final stage was to take a Myford belt guard to an automotive paint blenders for a match. They matched the gloss grey paint and gave me several large, rattle spray cans of the mixed paint (it wasn't too expensive at the time).
I have no idea what they did differently to the usual gloss spray paint that you buy but it was definitely cellulose and went on far better than any spray paint that I have used before. It gave a beautiful gloss finish and one large rattle can covered the entire cabinet and drip tray.
I now have plenty to do the lathe belt guards and tailstock if I ever need it.
Might that work for you instead of wrestling with the brushes.?
|Thread: Drill too high? Use a milling machine stand!|
Nice plinth Alistair.
I had exactly the same issue but I went the other route i.e., I knocked one together from wood, plywood, plenty of screws and some spare MDF. It is now at a much safer height. The other major point for me was to bring the table and work piece low enough to get a good view of where the end of the drill is going.
I am now building another plinth to bring my milling machine table to a higher point!!
|Thread: myford leadscrew|
As T.B says, just disengage the gearbox using the selector arm and the leadscrew will rotate freely. The graduated handwheel is invaluable for measuring turned lengths. I use it all the time.
|Thread: Chester 626 and Warco VMC spindle size|
I have just tried a No2 Morse tapered drill (with a tang) into the spindle of my Chester 16V milling machine and it won't fit. So I guess it has a similar spindle/ draw bar geometry to your larger, No3, 626 version.
|Thread: An engine to watch|
Lovely engine, thanks for posting the link.
|Thread: Round top inner firebox|
I am no expert but here are a few that I know of;
A flat top inner firebox will allow more tubes to be fitted. Apparently, the first third of the tubes length from the firebox is the most effective for transferring the heat, so the more tubes, the better the heat exchange.
The larger outer surface area of the square inner firebox will again allow more heat transfer to take place.
The disadvantage is that the flatter, squarer inner and outer firebox surfaces will need more support in the from of stays. So it could be seen as being slightly more difficult to build. Conversely, the curved surfaces of the round firebox are slightly easier to form and build.
Also, the outer firebox of the simple round topped boiler can obviously be formed using a straightforward length of tube - just cut and open out the sides.
The front firebox to barrel plate on a flat topped boiler is more difficult to form and build.
I am sure more experts will come and add or maybe even dispute what I have written but I think I have captured at least some of the pros and conns.
|Thread: First loco|
Yes I think a slot that is .006" too wide does seem to be a bit slack but I am not familiar with the buffer beam assembly on Bat. I presume you are using a slitting saw on a mandrel? Thinner saws than 1/16" are available.
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
I am interested in the 'why' rather than a bit of disruption. We have had radio control planes and helicopters I the hands of teenagers for donkeys years with no known incidents of this nature - I don't think.
I think the question is why people would wish to bother causing this kind of disruption - along with damage to 999 vehicles. Why are people doing it?
|Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams|
Ill check my bill. We get the calls very frequently (not sure about the number though) and it usually goes to the answer phone. I assume I am not being charged for that - or am I?
|Thread: Myford ML7, or Colchester Bantam/Boxford model A easiest to use?|
You haven't mentioned (unless I have missed it) what you are thinking of building with the lathe once you have it. As an apprentice, I used all three types of lathe and it really does matter what you are doing with them.
If they are all adjusted correctly, all of them can achieve a superb finish with a properly ground and set cutting tool and all of them can cut threads.
Again as an apprentice, I cut some rather complex threads as an exercise e.g., twin start, left handed square threads, pipe threads, very chunky acme threads etc. At home I use taps and dies. I can't remember the last time I cut a screw thread on a lathe.
The larger the lathe e.g., the Colchester, the less comfortable it is to machine very small parts. The smaller the lathe i.e., the ML7, the less comfortable it is removing huge chunks of metal off larger components.
I think what you are using it for is the key starting question.
|Thread: Tool and Cutter Grinder|
Excellent point XD and another good point regarding Harold.
I think I will get sorted for the next exhibition that I go to - probably in Manchester. Ill either decide to make use of this small mountain of HSS steel, buy some cupped wheels and make some form of cutter grinder or sell the majority of the tool steel and buy a load of tungsten tips.
It might have been an economics thing but in the toolroom - we always changed to a white wheel for HSS. It might have been a coincidence that the wheel was white and who knows what grit colour is around these days but that was the rule of thumb.
Oh, please don't take this as gospel because it was a very long time ago but I think we used a green grit for roughing the tungsten. It was great to remove material but left tiny chips on the cutting edge. the wheel was changed for diamond to get a keen, clean edge.
Yes you are correct. Diamond for tungsten and white for HSS.
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