Here is a list of all the postings Phil H1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chester Champion 16V Milling Machine head 'dropping'|
An update on the juddering during the lowering of my Champion 16V milling head;
I lowered the head gently onto a block of wood with the spindle quill fully retracted and locked. Note that I hardly tightened the lead screw - I was very gentle with it. However, this allowed me to tighten the gib strip screw - about 1/4 of a full rotation.
The gib screw was previously very tight so I assume the lowering of the head onto the wood twisted the head by a few thousands of an inch upwards - as Dave suggested above. The dropping/ juddering behaviour has completely disappeared and the slide is nice and smooth (for now).
|Thread: Protecting mild steel|
I have just removed the tarnish off a small steam engine and coated the parts in metalguard as Bill has done. One of steel parts is flame blued for a nice contrast.
I quite like bare or blued steels. A huge number of sins can be covered up with filler and paint.
|Thread: Black Oxide coating|
Ill try a few test components with a flame because last time I did this, I used new engine oil and the result is a lovely dark blue colour - but then I must admit to being a bit colour blind.
Ill will also check to see what happens with brass and steel mixed because nobody has reported back. Lets see what happens.
Slightly different question but on the same theme..... I have flame blued steel successfully (dunked in clean engine oil by the way) but I have never tried to 'blue' a mixed steel and brass assembly. Has anybody tried it? Does the brass just go dull?
|Thread: Boiler testers and material verification|
1. You try your best to buy the right copper and the right bronze - usually from a model suppliers.
2. Bronze definitely looks different to brass. I don't wish to bring sexism into this or be dismissive but my wife has zero technical training and she can tell the difference.
3. Quality assurance ISO 9000? - what bo****s!! Don't bother going there because the questions never stop e.g., how do you know the model supplier received the right stuff, have they sold the right stuff from the right pile and did you pick up the right bar when you did the machining? If you have the certificates - well done frame them but I have no idea how they will help.
|Thread: Any uses for an old tired lathe bed|
Do you have an idea (perhaps from measurements with straight edges and feelers etc) how much wear is on the bed you have? Peter, how much wear was on your S7 bed scraping exercise before you started?
|Thread: Angle grinders - Dangerous or not|
Well something isn't quite right with the angle grinder demonstration at the start of this thread.
About 6 years ago, a chap was unfortunately killed on a construction site associated with the company I was working for. I don't know the exact accident sequence but it was an angle grinder and a cutting disc. He was unfortunately killed when the cutting disc disintegrated. They are dangerous.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Spindle Lock|
Howard/ David, The lathe is from about 1975 but has hardly ever been used. The genuine Bernard chucks supplied with the machine seem to be very stiff on the spindle nose. Perhaps a few more hundred chuck changes and it will be fine just gripping the belt.
Bill Ellis/ Soundgrounder, Thanks. Ill have a look at the manual. I honestly didn't realise it already had one.
John, thanks I wasn't aware of the google search thing. Ill use that in future.
Bill Pudney, Yep you have misunderstood - Myford really do seem to be far superior. They've thought of everything. Spindle lock located!!!!
Thanks Martin. I'm pretty good but I don't know everything.
I suspect this has been done to death but I can't get anything useful from a search.
The Suggested way to remove a screwed chuck is to grip the belt and unscrew. No chance - not on my Super 7!! Are there any good, simple designs out there for a spindle lock without resorting to the backgear?
|Thread: Do you clean your workshop at the end of the day?|
I try to do about a weeks work - say 40 hours (which could be over several days or even a couple of weeks), then put all the tools away and sweep up etc.
|Thread: Superheaters in the Firebox|
Of course you are right but I like to see Julian's contributions. Yes they can be a bit blunt at times but it is absolutely clear that he has more than a rough idea how to build and operate live steam locomotives. I have not yet completed 1 steam locomotive and I would be more than happy to receive comments from him.
As for the designers you have listed, I know myself (as an ex designer) that any designer who can't take a bit of criticism isn't worth much. They would probably agree with half the comments made against their designs.
|Thread: Beginners question (sorry) - why I am breaking my small centre drills?|
A couple of possibilities;
The end of a new piece of silver steel is often hard and either needs to be heated and slowly cooled or the first 10mm cut off with a hacksaw before machining. You might already know that because you say that your larger centre drills are fine?
I once bought a couple of duff small centre drills that wouldn't cut - so are yours ok? You could check by using one on something like aluminium or brass - just to check it cuts ok.
Yep, very often, small centre drills are run too slow and they struggle - so you could as you suggest look at the speed. Lubrication helps but a quick dip with a centre drill shouldn't need that much - i.e., a quick squirt of oil of coolant if you have it.
|Thread: Replacing spoked balanced wheels with plain discs|
Perhaps somebody will correct my comments but I would be very surprised if the counter weight makes a significant difference on a small scale model engine.
You only need to look across the available wheel patterns/ balance weight configurations to see a wide variation and as Nick suggests, a couple of blind holes would soon sort the difference out if you are really concerned.
Are you considering discs to save the relatively high cost of castings?
I have a Super 7 with a handwheel and I did have an ML10. I simply add the cut length from where the dial is positioned. The mental sums are good for exercise for your brain. Actually, thinking about it, I don't have any adjustable collars
|Thread: Leaf spring deflection|
That's more than my wife!!! Is that the tender only or the engine and tender?
|Thread: Copper for boiler construction|
I don't believe that you will have a problem if you go and speak to your local club inspector. You sound like you have done the best you can to control the materials etc. I suspect he will be more interested in the bush materials and the silver soldering stages. Also, please check your drawing. Many of the old drawings use threads in the plates for longitudinal stays instead of bushes. These features might catch you out.
If we start with material certification, we are heading for a minefield that you simply won't get out of e.g., most ME suppliers won't have proper QA, most self builders live at home, with a home workshop and no QA department?? Even if you had certificates, there is no guarantee that the parts are made from the same stuff. The QA issues go on and on and on and never end.
|Thread: How to get that high end paint finish|
You are right of course i.e., use don't admire - but I repainted my lathe drip tray and cabinet about 8 years ago and it still looks immaculate. The odd scratch of course but it was well worth the effort. In my case, the lathe and cabinet had been stored in a cold damp garage from 1975 to when I took it. So the cabinet really did need attention.
I had to do the same to a Myford Super 7 drip tray and cabinet (minus the welding) because of age and rust.
The brushed red oxide primer instructions (oil based from Halfords) said that any paint could be applied over the top. So I tried some Halfords cellulose, grey spray primer. I had to apply several primer coats and use very fine wet and dry inbetween coats before the red oxide brush marks underneath 'blended in' to a reasonable level.
The final stage was to take a Myford belt guard to an automotive paint blenders for a match. They matched the gloss grey paint and gave me several large, rattle spray cans of the mixed paint (it wasn't too expensive at the time).
I have no idea what they did differently to the usual gloss spray paint that you buy but it was definitely cellulose and went on far better than any spray paint that I have used before. It gave a beautiful gloss finish and one large rattle can covered the entire cabinet and drip tray.
I now have plenty to do the lathe belt guards and tailstock if I ever need it.
Might that work for you instead of wrestling with the brushes.?
|Thread: Drill too high? Use a milling machine stand!|
Nice plinth Alistair.
I had exactly the same issue but I went the other route i.e., I knocked one together from wood, plywood, plenty of screws and some spare MDF. It is now at a much safer height. The other major point for me was to bring the table and work piece low enough to get a good view of where the end of the drill is going.
I am now building another plinth to bring my milling machine table to a higher point!!
|Thread: myford leadscrew|
As T.B says, just disengage the gearbox using the selector arm and the leadscrew will rotate freely. The graduated handwheel is invaluable for measuring turned lengths. I use it all the time.
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