Here is a list of all the postings Mark Elen 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hemingway Hacksaw|
I got the hole drilled in the boss, then set back up on the table using the slide bar and clamps to hold the bow in correct alignment. I took really light cuts, because the bow is just hanging in free space.
I milled off the ends and the waste in the middle, made up the threaded adjuster, I need to mill half of the end off now and drill for the pin. I have marked up for the M5 screws to hold the blade, just need to drill and tap.
I have had to go 'off piste' with the adjuster screw, putting a 120 degree cone on the end. The drawings/casting is a bit out. the boss should be 1" long, but just skimming the end square, left it 3/4". I drilled down 39mm, the drawings called for 1 3/8" (34.93mm) even with this adjustment, if I had left the adjuster square and drilled for the pin at 1/4" the blade would not have fitted.
At 1/4" from the tip of the cone, the blade should fit with a little slack.
One of the things that I have not been looking forward to was machining the bow. I don’t know why now. I got stuck into it last night, doing the slides first, then today I have set it up on the angle plate and drilled the boss.
Don’t look too closely at the spirit level on the square... I still need to level the mill.
Many thanks for your kind comments.
I have got a bit more done in the last few days. The con rod is complete, I reamed out the 1/2" hole and bored out the 5/8"
Then I decided to start work on the slide bar retainers. These took a bit of working out how to hold them as the castings were not square. I had to square up one side and make up a set of soft jaws to hold these whilst I worked on them.
The bosses for the screws didn't line up too well either. I decided to use the dro, line up centre on the raised portion on the back of the casting, then place the holes as best I could in the bosses.
The holes are correctly placed at 2" centres (50.8mm) but they don't line up in the bosses very well.
A bit more done today. I got the crank pin milled down to 1/2” square, then milled out the 1/2” slot in the crank wheel using a 8mm Ali slot drill. I finished off the corners very carefully using a needle file.
I got to the limit of the boring head, as the head itself was going to hit the step on the soft jaws, so I changed over to the rotary table and end milled off the rest.
I also got started on one of the crank pins
And set it up in a square collet block to mill it down to 1/2” square for the crank wheel:
I decided to make up a set of soft jaws to hold the crank wheel.....
I have cut up a piece of 1" aluminium to fit the vice jaws and a couple of shorter pieces to hold the 'proper soft jaws' in the correct position.
I also took my own advice, that I gave Ron a few weeks ago, and bought a SCLCL 12mm Left hand boring bar to fit the boring head.
I used a right hand bar, cut down to fit the boring head to take out as much as I could, then swapped to my new left hand bar. First thing I had to do with the bar, was cut it down to fit.
I have still got a way to go, the sides of the cut are great, but the bottom has a few ridge marks. I'm sure for this it wont matter much, but I am trying to think of ways to clean these up.
Thinking about it, these would probably been better set up on the Rotary Table and end milled out.
|Thread: Beginners Engine Advice?|
I have made my decision regarding this. I have decided to have a go at building LBSC's Pansy.
A few of things conspired to making this decision:
1) Doug Hewson is running a 'Update' series in Model Engineer (and I have just taken out a subscription)
2) It was what I first wanted to build, but I didn't fancy the bending and fitting work of the pannier tanks... I still don't, but if you don't push yourself, you don't move forward, I'm just going to have to go for it.
3) The GWR 5700 series was the first engine I had as a kid, and I can still remember the Hornby 'steam' experience with the fluid down the chimney.
4) I must be mad.
There are loads of things I'm not really looking forward to, the crank axle and the horrendously expensive cylinder casting being just 2. But there are loads that I am. I can see this being a long term build, but I'm in no rush.
One of the first things I need to do is to join a local engineering club, I have a couple to choose from locally, I will get around to both and have a look around.
I bought 3 full volumes of Model Engineer (118,119 and 120) covering LBSC's full words and music of the build and over the last couple of days have scanned every page and PDF'd and collated the lot into one large file. The build was covered every other ME, but LBSC wrote every issue back then, there are loads of interesting articles in the intervening issues.
I have seen during my research that there are some issues with the plans, I'm hoping these will present themselves during Doug's Updates - any pointers from the combined wisdom here would be much appreciated.
|Thread: Hemingway Hacksaw|
I got the collet finished, then bored the crank wheel to 10 degree included. Mounted the wheel on a piece of 11mm silver steel using the collet.
The casting comes with loads of 'meat' to remove to get to final dimension. Here it is when I first started on it:
and here it is coming into dimension:
I have got it marked up and ready to mill out the slot for the adjustable stroke, but have been mulling over ways of holding it for milling. I'm leaning towards making up some soft jaws out of ali to hold it in the milling vice. - it would probably be quicker to just bolt it down to the table....
Tonight, I got the collet set up in a hex Stevenson’s block and sawed out the cuts. I got 90% done with the saw, the last bit I took out with a needle file.
Ok, back on with the hacksaw build.
I made up a 5/8”BSF nut and the collet. I still need to slit the collet.
Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 21/01/2019 21:58:39
|Thread: Beginners Engine Advice?|
Thanks Gents for your comments and direction.
I bought Kozo’s Pennsylvania A3 Switcher book about 3 months ago from Camden Minatures. Because of supply issues, it turned up this week.
Wow. What a book. It goes into great detail on set up, jigs and general machining issues from a beginners perspective. I am pretty taken with the end product as well.
The only issue is that the book and all dimensions are based on 3/4” scale (3 1/2” gauge) and although there is a complete section on 1 1/2” scale with redesigned boiler etc, I really want to build to 1” scale for 5” gauge.
I’m going to keep thinking about it for the moment.
|Thread: Hemingway Knurling Tool|
A little bit more done today. The collet block worked a treat, cut the first end then changed to the collet Chuck to cut the other.
Then made a start on the lever boss
I’ve made a start tonight on setting up to turn the offset on the upper pivot. I have set up the 4 jaw and am planning on holding the 3/8” silver steel in a Stevenson’s collet block to turn the long end. Plan is to then change to the collet Chuck to turn the other end. We will see how this works out...
I’m hoping so. Not had much time in the workshop this last few days. I did get an hour this morning and made a complete hash of the brass bearings. Got them drilled and reamed 5/16” then took the o/d down to 9.34mm - when I should have taken it to 9.54mm. Another lesson learned. At least I had some brass round stock to have another go at.
I walked away from it this morning in disgust, this afternoon, I tried again successfully.
They are a nice snug fit. Just a few little bits to machine up now to finish this.
Are they your spare knurls bolted to the sides near the adjusting screw?
First day back at work today, and thankfully, I got done early, so on with the project. I managed to get the trunnion milled into shape, it nearly broke my heart taking a stone to the new 3/8” drill to break the sharp cutting edges to drill brass, but as I’m all metric, I figured ‘it’s only an imperial drill, it’s not going to get much use’😂
Tapping the small M4s was a joy compared with the 3/8 BSF
It all works nicely, and I can run the adjuster by hand to both extents by just holding the threaded part. I’m happy with that as my first real fitting project.
Edit: doh. Read the words Mark, don’t just look at the pictures...
Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 02/01/2019 22:30:21
|Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling|
Your plate looks great. Keep posting the updates, I’m interested to see how you get on with it.
Happy New Year
|Thread: Small part holding|
This may be worth a look, **LINK**
|Thread: Hemingway Knurling Tool|
I got a bit more done this morning, starting with the adjuster nut. All went well, but what a nightmare to tap. I used a 3/8 BSF HSS tap, brass is not like tapping steel. I took it steady and it worked out ok.
It’s certainly coming along. One of the problems with buying the mill first, is that I’m much more confident on it than I am on the lathe. It’s probably why I have done most of the milling jobs first. I’m going to have to bite the bullet now and get on with the round stuff.
All the best for the new year👍
During the adverts of the Star Wars film tonight, I ran up the 3/8” BSF adjuster screw. Had to fit the 127 tooth change gear, I’m happy with how it turned out. First imperial thread cut and a die runs down it nicely.
Please excuse the state of the lathe. It needs a clean.
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