Here is a list of all the postings RMA has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
In my opinion it's a 'no brainer'. In years to come you'll think it was a bargain, go for it.
|Thread: Changing internet providers|
I change supplier on a regular basis as soon as they hike up the price. I have loads of redundant routers to prove it! Do your homework before you phone them, that way you have a benchmark to work to. I always go via Topcashback, always good deals to be had there. Loyalty with most companies these days is not respected, so play them at their own game.
|Thread: Cast iron cabinet theft|
I'm not sure about cash payout. Whenever I take scrap to my local yard they pay into my bank via my debit card. However our church has had the lead taken from the roof twice, the last quite recently and it's a substantial quantity of lead. That has to be disposed of somewhere, so I suspect cash payout is still alive and well.
|Thread: MIDLANDS MODEL ENGINEERING EXHIBITION|
Just booked my ticket online. Be aware that if you want to read the T's & C's do so before filling out the form, otherwise it will be lost and you have to fill it all in again! I found that annoying, having to do it all twice.
|Thread: windoze 10|
Interesting history, but I haven't a clue what UNIX is all about, I just want something that works and doesn't have a mind of it's own! Please don't bring that silly young girl into this!
Thank you, I'll check it out. Is there any commitments because it's free?
I'm not a computer expert by any means, but I too have gone through the various versions of Microsoft from the early DOS, and now unfortunately to Win10. I had no choice in the matter as my laptop with Win7 died and the new one came with Win10.
I was perfectly happy with Win7, it would take all the software I had bought over the years including MS Office 97, Photoshop etc. I could use my scanner and A3 printer without any problems. Win10 will not let me load any of them, and the other equipment is now redundant! The Win10 word program works when it feels like it, and when I'm writing anything, including this, the curser moves around my script and inserts at random what I'm writing. It's a constant battle to keep everything where it should be. My photos suddenly duplicated for no reason when I transferred them onto my new computer, and with so many I have no way of deleting all the copies, some of which have 3 duplicates!
If anyone has had similar problems and has any solutions I would be most grateful to hear from them. I for one would be very happy to revert to Win7.
Yeah, interesting document but as always there's and equal and opposite view. Have a look at the BMW Malaysia report on B10 fuel. Pretty horrific, and that's a warm country. The environmentalists seem to be contradicting their motives. On the one hand they say we should be using alternative fuel such as Bio fuel, and then they say we should stop using Palm oil! Can't have it both ways in my opinion. I'm against the rapid growth in the use of Palm oil, especially when it's a main constituent of Bio Diesel, and so many forests are being destroyed to grow the stuff.
Several reports on the internet indicate using Fatty Acid Methyl Ester (FAME) in Diesel is bad if the percentage goes too high, and they reckon 10% is too high, with 15% suggested in many areas. Personally I would rather believe the manufacturer of my car than the Lord Mayor of London, who's only real objective is to financially penalize anyone driving into London in a Diesel car, below a certain CAT figure. Mine happens to be in excess of CAT 6, so I can drive into London without paying. I have no wish to do that anymore though!
It's all very well the EU insisting we achieve certain levels of pollution by 2020, but maybe the side effects of the methods chosen are too great, we'll have to see.
Anyway, it's important that owners of Diesel vehicles are made aware of the potential damage to their engine. It's then up to them whether or not they use it.
Yep, I find this most useful and you can change the units so easily when abroad. I've never bothered to find out to what accuracy the info displayed is, but my guess is pretty spot on. I do use this info over long journeys, and when in the middle of nowhere in France for instance, I drive using the distance to run info. Long gone are the days as a youth I could tell when my car was running short of fuel. It spluttered to a stop! Not much money in those days!!
|Thread: Water in fuel|
Sorry, I missed out a crucial bit of the detective work....and age thing.
The diagnostics seemed to point to the fuel gauge/sensor not behaving as it should, and after a long time spent getting to and removing said sensor, this is what came out and focused attention on the tank and pump condition.
I thought this deserved a new thread as it concerns the use of Bio Diesel and is for information. I hope Diesel users will find it useful.
I drive around Europe quite a bit and I'm always concerned when I go to fill up, what I'll actually be getting. Labelling has improved over the years thankfully, but in France it can be a bit daunting as most stations now are for self use and unattended, particularly at night. I'll be driving back to the UK from the south of Spain via France this week, and although I can go a very long way on a tank of Diesel, I have to fill up once on the way.
France does have some really nice new pumps and they're becoming more common. Touch your country flag on the screen and it all comes up in your language. It even talks to you and tells you what you have selected BEFORE you put it in your tank. It then thanks you for your custom and wishes you a good journey. Nice touch! I haven't seen any in the UK, but there might well be something similar somewhere.
With the ever increasing pressure to make fuel compliant with the latest regulations, it's even more critical that you know what your engine can cope with. B10 is the strongest at the moment, a step up from B7 (which could contain any percentage).
I've found the attached info which might help
I knowingly don't put any Bio Diesel in my car, but you have to trust the label and supplier.
|Thread: Water in fuel|
Thank you Michael for the link, I've now created an album and will include the photos. (unfortunately the photos seem to have a mind of their own on here and I can't get the text where I want it, sorry about that. First attempt to load photos).
These show the degree of corrosion in a car from 2001, so not that old. The tank is of that vintage but the pumps are only two years old and are genuine Jaguar parts.
Top pic shows the pumps
Middle pic shows the bottom of the tank
Bottom pic show the pump sump in more detail
My fellow club member had a lot of hassle trying to diagnose the loss of power with the car, and after exhausting all ideas (On board diagnostics didn't really help in this case) finally had the courage to remove the tank, not an easy operation. What he found amazed everyone, but he has now replaced the lot with new genuine parts and it's all OK again, but for how long?
It would be great if someone can come up with answer to my original question, as engineers we like to deal in specifics rather than supposition. As I said early on in this thread, using additives including IPA may well sort this out, but without doing a strip down, how do you know if it works? And what do the internals of your car look like?
Off subject again. Read my original question/post and you'll see what I've been trying to find out. I'm not interested in how efficiently ethanol burns in the engine or whether it'll do any harm to the engine, nor water injection, we are stuck with what's available at the pumps.
What is alarming is the hidden rust this mixture appears to cause. Several here have stated how well their cars run on ethanol petrol mix, well maybe they do, mine does, but do you know what's going on inside, I guess not.
I have a few pictures of the petrol tank, vintage 2001, and the two fuel pumps vintage 2017. These apparently replaced the originals when the problem was first noticed. I would attach them if I knew how to.
Nice one! I often wonder what happens to the samples taken from the main tank at my airfield when we have a delivery. I'll ask around, not sure what Avgas would do to the car.
Interesting info but this needs to be done before fueling the tank and you say the sieve admits water, that's something I'm trying to remove. The problem is actually dealing with the effect of the ethanol/petrol/water mix in the tank. For clarity, the water isn't deliberately put in the tank, it's there because of the ethanol in the fuel.
Obviously whatever method chosen (if there is a good one) will not correct any damage previously done, and that's impossible to see unless the tank is removed and inspected internally for pump damage etc. A major and expensive task as one of our members has just learned and alerted the rest of us!
Conclusion: This winter I'll start using some additive and always keep the tank full as usual, drive my car as normal in the winter as and when (dry sunny day), so it won't get many miles will it, and hope for the best, it's only done 31K in 22 year's anyway. I will in future keep an eye on the fuel composition at the pump, that's if we're allowed to know of course.
Water injection is well known but it isn't the subject here folks.
Dave W, Robert and Dave have highlighted the fact that I didn't mention I'm talking about old cars, well 18 -22 years old. Components were made to work with the fuels available at the time, and to be fair I doubt anyone could foresee what we have forced on us today. We've had problems with lead free, sulphur and now ethanol.
Governments seem to have a knee jerk reaction when advised by the so-called experts, remember Brown and Diesel? 10% ethanol is not uncommon now, 15% in the USA and they want it increased. This will affect thousands of newish and new cars, let alone the older ones.
The parts I'm referring to are on high end cars and expensive to replace and difficult to diagnose until there's a failure. It seems no one on here can come up with the answer I'm seeking and that's fair enough, just have to keep searching the net.
I've just come back to my original thread and saw this. From the internet research I've done so far, it looks as though the USA are using up to 15% and want to increase this, as do the British government. I know that water has been injected into engines for decades, that wasn't the subject of my question. What I'm trying to find out is the link between standard 5-10% ethanol/ petrol mix ( as bought direct from the filling station), left standing for say 6 months in the tank, and it's effect on metal due to water absorption, that being in the main the submerged fuel pump(s), filters and lines. Assuming tank left full to avoid any condensation and tight cap. I know the overflow will have access to air.
I'm aware of proprietary additives, and the IPA solution. I might be trying to find the impossible, but a scientific answer is what I'm after.
There have been one or two problems with petrol over the year's which have affected engines in the main rather than fuel systems, such as the change to lead free and Sulphur additive which has now been dropped. Is the increasing percentage of ethanol in petrol (not Diesel) going to be the next? ( that's a rhetorical question by the way).
Edited By RMA on 25/09/2019 18:04:45
My original question was whether there's a professional chemist on the forum. It seems there isn't, not so far anyway. Thanks for your comments. Should a chemist, industrial or otherwise have the answer to my question, please pm me, as these threads can go on and on.
|Thread: What the he**|
Sorry you're wrong. Rust isn't the problem, my own spring looked brand new, as did my son's which failed two weeks later. The one's I see in my local MOT garage are somewhat dirty but in the main totally rust free!
I think the problem is value engineering, and the worsening road surfaces accelerate breakages.
|Thread: Water in fuel|
Thanks for your response Robert. Yes, we check for water in the aircraft tanks with Avgas, easy to do on a 172, but not so easy on a car. Like the aircraft I always leave my car with a full tank to minimise condensation, and I run it regularly even if only in the garage, but without stripping it down, it's impossible to know if there is water/corrosion in my tank.
This problem was highlighted recently when a member started to investigate his 'fuel' problems and lack of power (normally around 310 BHP) . He'd already recently changed the fuel pumps and filters, but when he stripped it again and put the photos on the forum, the amount of corrosion was alarming. He has now changed the tank, plus the pumps and filters again. His investigations found that ethanol attracted water. Apparently the government will be increasing the mandatory limit of ethanol and many engines will not be able to use it if it goes too high. Maybe you can enlighten me on that.
I know it's a good idea to put an additive in the tank if it's to be left say, over the winter without any use, but once you start to use up the fuel and refill, the additive becomes weaker and loses it's benefit.
I'll look into the IPA (not the beer) and forward the information.
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