Here is a list of all the postings mark smith 20 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Where to acquire a small amount of bromine|
Sounds like your dabbling with the Daguerrotype process. Bromine is nasty stuff ,not something you should mess with outside a fume cupboard. It has the same health rating as other nasties like hydrogen cyanide.
|Thread: Building a miniature router for inlay|
Made these the otherday for a couple of acoustic guitar builds. Got rid of all my guitar building stuff years ago.
Cheap and cheerful dremel router base and circle/rosette cutter. acrylic , tufnol and delrin scraps and a couple of roofing bolts. Quite solid and works well, only a couple of hours to make..
|Thread: New member from Glasgow|
Something like this made by Marshall and Fleming .
|Thread: Ink jet printer woes|
Gave up on inkjets after having several particularly epson printers. Too unreliable and expensive to run.Last was a rather expensive A3 epson photo printer, was nothing but trouble.
I decided to buy a used Samsung mono laser printer off ebay 3 years ago and have printed thousands of pages of b/w text . No problems at all ,toner cartridge lasts ages. Not bothered by lack of colour ,if i want photos printed then there are plenty of online places that do them for pennies.
Edited By mark smith 20 on 30/01/2020 13:53:36
|Thread: Product Descriptions (Up to scratch?)|
Or if your refering to passing it into or through the spindle then, your specs state 20mm spindle bore. You would need a much larger lathe for 45mm. My southbend 9A has a pitiful 3/4" spindle bore.
|Thread: Alexander master toolmaker|
Dave, they are movable limit trips ,but im also confused how they work. There should be two on each axis in between the fixed ones at the ends.
Heres mine on the z axis. I also have this bit which im unsure what its for?
Edited By mark smith 20 on 14/01/2020 19:09:25
Edited By mark smith 20 on 14/01/2020 19:16:23
Thanks , does mine look right??
Where is this 4mm gap your refering to?
Well done. I would advise you to put new oil wicks in any place you can and thoroughly clean out everything first . The wicks in mine were totally blocked with gunk and all hardened so no oil gets through.
There are wicks all over the place . The all mechanism connected to the joystick lever in mine was particularly bad for dirt and tiny metal particles.
The wick channels are not exactly like the Deckel FP1.
Edited By mark smith 20 on 24/12/2019 00:14:04
That would probably work with the tapered gibs removed as it will give alot of play. But if i remember on mine that bottom nut bracket was extremely hard to remove and i think i left it as it was and just cleaned it all out when i stripped mine.
I cant remember if the dowel pins could be possibly knocked out from inside the column or whether they are just accessable from the front.
Have you removed the bracket at the back of the horizontal drive unit ,then the horizontal head should slide off after removing the Y leadscrew.
So you cant just raise the vertical saddle until it disengages from the nut allowing you to lift the saddle off the top of the column?
The carriage has to come of the top of the column its not easy its very heavy,i had to attach a make shift pully to the rafter in my shed roof and my wife held the rope (with much complaining ) whilst i lifted off the top of the column whilst standing on the base of the machine. Two strong people may be able to lift it off without needing a pulley or winch.
Of course the horizontal drive part has to be removed first.
The key i mentioned is in the keyway on the round drive rod in the first photo next to the leadscrew. Its supposed to sit in the area within the cover where the nut is, lower down on the column. If you remove the cover plate you can check the key is in place .
Edited By mark smith 20 on 23/12/2019 10:15:24
Edited By mark smith 20 on 23/12/2019 10:26:45
Edited By mark smith 20 on 23/12/2019 10:30:25
Hi David have you checked the key that is in the vertical travel leadscrew, mine has a habit if slipping out which of course stops any movement , it may have jamed something.But may be wrong.
P.s i had everything to bits apart from the main gearing in the column which was all perfect.
Edited By mark smith 20 on 22/12/2019 20:19:36
|Thread: Amplifier Repairs..|
Hi Dave, you obviously know alot more than me about amp circuits etc.. The valves do have cans on them by the way but the amp cabinet is open backed, so i havent noticed any heat problems. It has a strip of wood to stop the valves getting knocked though.
These amps were designed by Barry Vyse and mine was probably built in kit form on one of his amp building courses. Hes a very knowledgable guy and worked for Marconi Osram i believe. Wrote a book on the subject.
Do you happen to know which is the cathode bias resistor in the photo of the inside ??
Yes theres certainly alot of talented musicians around who never get a break.
A friend of mine made it big, turned him into a ass. L.A, Drugs etc... But he eventually came down to earth . (Frank Dunnery of Its Bites etc..) Great musician but his older brother was better, he never wanted fame and despite offers from all over the place and refusing to fly ended up never leaving the village.
Another friend did quite well , he married that lady out of Bucks Fizz He currently plays with Rick Wakeman.
I know several local guitarists who are very good but never really got a break.Also drummers. Great to listen to in pubs etc.. and can take their hands to any styles of music.
Edited By mark smith 20 on 04/12/2019 20:09:04
Inside my amp ,a real amp with no pcb`s.
|Thread: Acme thread|
I made some here for my southbend when i got it. This was the result of only my third attempt ever at screw cutting. I just used leaded steel and used the original nuts . They were a large improvement in back lash etc on the original screws . Still working fine after a few years. I grafted the threaded section into the original parts using loctite and a pin.
Edited By mark smith 20 on 27/11/2019 11:11:36
Shaun , a slightly larger diameter screw would still work the same in regard to the dials if the pitch TPI is the same .(as long as everything else is machined to fit (the nut, dials ,handles etc...)
Edited By mark smith 20 on 27/11/2019 09:37:59
|Thread: aluminium troubles|
My view is your depth of finishing cut off the diameter ( 0.06mm - 2.3 thou)is too small for a carbide cutter.
Edited By mark smith 20 on 25/11/2019 10:51:56
|Thread: Anyone know what is the protective plastic film on brass sheet made of?|
Polyethlene when heated will produce an oily paraffin like stuff up to about 450 C ,above that black carbon deposits, various aldehydes, propane ,methylvinylketone and also several other things like acetic acid depending on temperature of course.
Also depending on how fast the temp. is reached which for a laser would be quite quickly.
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