Here is a list of all the postings Georgineer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cigarette Papers|
For setting up the changewheels on a lathe. By putting a paper between the wheels it gives a small clearance and stops the gears from grinding together, and is spat out when you turn the wheels. I must admit I tend to use ordinary paper these days since the amount of clearance isn't critical.
Standard technique for woodwind players. The holes in the instrument are closed by a leather-covered pad when you press a key. The pads sometimes get a bit sticky with grut and moisture, so the action becomes slow and unpredictable. You put the paper between the pad and the hole, press the key lightly, slide the paper out and voila! (Not viola, that's in a different section.) The cigarette paper is strong, flexible, doesn't shed fibres, and at one time most players would have had a packet in their pocket.
Edited By Georgineer on 14/07/2020 12:49:49
I had no idea that there were different grades and thicknesses; I must go and have a measure. I've still got a stock of various cigarette papers confiscated from kids when I was a school teacher. I always told them they could reclaim them at the end of year eleven (fifth form in old money) when they left school, but none of them ever did, so they went home with me when I retired, along with a collection of cheap lighters. One kid did send his mother in to negotiate with me for the return of a Zippo lighter - apparently he had 'borrowed' it from his Dad, and was in serious trouble at home for it!
|Thread: We need Pi|
There was an April Fool's hoax (still believed by some) that one of the American states passed a law which defined the value of π as equal to three. However, there was a genuine attempt in Indiana in 1897 to establish the value of π by law. The bill was apparently so obscure and self-contradictory that it yielded at least three different values, mostly around 3.2, so it was kicked into the long grass.
|Thread: I'm thinking of selling up, whats it worth?|
When listing on ebay, be brutally honest about the condition of things. It has served me well as a policy, and when reviewing other people's sales history I find that 'condition worse than described' is a common cause for negative feedback.
|Thread: Classic Cars - Driving London to Edinburgh in Top Gear|
In the early 70s I used to drive my sister's 1956 Morris Minor (803 cc) around our small town in top gear "just because I could". It was low a compression, low-revving, under-powered car, under-geared because it had to be. It certainly demanded good clutch control to achieve it.
In contrast, try as I might, my 1960 (948 cc) Minor just wouldn't do it in top. It was far more satisfactory on the open road, however.
|Thread: milling Acrylic|
What he said. The extruded stuff goos up like chewing gum, puddles the cut, and sets rock hard when you stop. The cast stuff machines beautifully and smells nice while you're doing it. I've never used coolant, but I keep the depth of cut down and the feed rate up to get the heat away quickly. Talking two-flute end mills up to about 4 mm diameter; no idea off the top of my head what speeds and feeds I used.
|Thread: Amazon Prime scam?|
I've had three variants of the Amazon Prime scam call: A foreign sounding woman with an American-ish accent, an English-sounding woman who was obviously reading a script and not very fluently, and a cultured English woman.
The first two told me that my Amazon Prime account was going to be renewed and I would be charged "thirty nine point nine nine" - no units.
The third referred to "Visa or Mastercard" and "your bank" and told me I had been charged "fifty nine point nine nine" and that I should press 1 to stop it.
All bosh; I don't use Amazon.
|Thread: Help to identify Myford Lathe|
To quote a post I made in an earlier thread:
"Some simple measurements and observations can identify which of the different models ML1 to ML4 one is faced with:
ML1 & 2: 3 1/8" centre height, 15" between centres, 3 1/2" cross slide travel.
ML3 & 4: 3 1/2" centre height, 24" between centres, 4 1/2" cross slide travel.
ML1 & 3 ('Standard' models): Spindle bearings direct in headstock.
ML2 & 4 ('Superior' models): Bronze spindle bearings, shrouded ball thrust race.
My understanding from lathes.co.uk is that the cast-in headstock was abandoned in 1937, so from then until the ML1 and ML3 went out of production in 1941, all models had the removable headstock."
The ML4 used three different spindle nose threads, Earlier ones 7/8" x 9tpi or 7/8" x 12 tpi. Later ones used 1 1/8" x 12 tpi, the same as the ML7 but with a smaller register diameter. I don't know what threads were used on the ML 1,2 &3 but they would almost certainly have been the same.
|Thread: We need Pi|
I never really thought about it in depth until now. I assumed that the gap was because the arc between points is greater than the radius. It is, of course, but I overlooked that what I was stepping off was in fact a chord of the circle, equal in length to the radius. So now I accept that the discrepancy was due to my own youth and inexperience.
I must try it again, now I have my own grown-up drawing set, and see if my technique has improved.
|Thread: ML7 refurbishment|
When I bought my (second-hand) ML7, the chucks that came with it fitted perfectly but a new collet chuck supplied by Myford wouldn't go on more than a couple of threads before jamming. Myford changed the chuck with no problems, and the new one was the same. I tried the new chuck on a friend's lathe, and it fitted perfectly, so the problem was obviously with my lathe. When I looked more thoroughly, the mandrel thread was very slightly distorted for the first couple of threads, presumably by earlier abuse, and I presume the existing chucks had enough slack in the threads to cope.
So I eased the thread with a small file until the new chuck fitted, and all has been well since.
|Thread: Hammer flipping experiment?|
When somebody tried to teach me juggling, I was given silk handkerchiefs to start with because they slow the gravity down. Would it help if you started with a rubber hammer, or one made of marshmallow?
|Thread: LED GLS bulbs|
Robin, I suspect that the manufacturers would hide behind the 'M' in MTBF. As in "Yes, this one failed well before the mean time, but what about all the ones which go well beyond that time? Do you keep a record of them?"
I have had trouble with two Philips LED bulbs which emit an intrusive whistle, presumably from an internal switched-mode power supply. I have had to withdraw them from use because the whistle was irritating me beyond endurance.
|Thread: We need Pi|
This worked all right when using a blunt pencil and a pair of school compasses with the dried blood scraped off the point. However, when I borrowed Grandpa's draughting set, I found that, no matter how I tried, I could never get the last circle to coincide with the first. It was only later that I discovered that this is because the value of pi is more than three.
It was when I was studying electrical engineering some years later that I discovered the mnemonic "How I need a drink, alcoholic of course, after the heavy chapters involving quantum mechanics" which by counting the letters gives pi to 15 sig. figs. though I never found a use for it.
Then when I learned computer programming (remember Algol on punched cards, anyone?) I learned that pi equals 4*arctan(1). Much more useful.
These days I just press a button on my calculator.
|Thread: Old School Drawing Exercises and 2D CAD|
SOD, when my wife worked for the engineering firm Thales it was pronounced Tallis!
This thread is taking some very interesting directions. Keep it up, lads!
And Neil,your knurler looks useful. Would it make a suitable subject for MEW?
When I did a course to learn Autocad a few years ago (having learned my draughting the old fashioned way) I was actually marked down for blending my curves too accurately! Our drawings were marked by overlaying them with a master drawing supplied to our lecturer by City and Guilds, and I lost marks because mine wasn't an exact match. I pointed out that my blending was smoother than theirs, so he took it up with C & G. Their response was that I shouldn't be able to do that at level 2 and that their marking scheme stood.
Fortunately our lecturer was a very determined man, and took it as far up their hierarchy as he needed to. Eventually they conceded that doing it better than the minimum required wasn't actually a fault, and I was awarded full marks.
|Thread: whats this socket used for?|
I can't see from the photo, but my guess is that the resistor is connected as a bypass between the two sides of the switch, and also that it isn't a thermistor.
Photographic bulbs are notoriously short-lived because they are run at such high temperatures, which firstly causes the tungsten filament to evaporate quickly, and secondly causes a huge thermal shock at switch-on, which administers the coup-de-grace to an already tired filament.
I'm sure that the owner of the Gnome didn't want to modify his latest acquisition, so made a special-to-purpose adaptor lead to allow a soft start and make his expensive bulbs last longer. My father made something similar for his slide projector.
For similar reasons I made an adaptor panel I could plug my photoflood lights into, so I could run them in series for setting up and in parallel for the actual shoot.
|Thread: Drill sharpening?|
When I was an apprentice in the late sixties we were taught how to grind drills freehand, and we then had to show them to our instructor.
"How's that Mr Roberts?"
"Hmm... hmm... hmmm..." as he checked it against his gauge, "Not bad." Then he'd flatten the whole point off against the wheel and say "Now do it again."
I have my father's Picador jig which hasn't been out of its box since the seventies. He bought it, tried it, and found it was no better than his Portsmouth Dockyard apprenticeship had taught him in the 1920s.
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