Here is a list of all the postings Georgineer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Making a miniature electric bell|
I looked in my copy of "The Boy Electrician" , and the bell's not there! Then I discovered that mine is by J.W.Sims and published in London, whereas yours is by Alfred P. Morgan and published in Boston.
My personal view is that you should go for a real bell, every time! No electronically generated bell sound is ever convincing and I regard them with scorn and derision, if not worse. I have the misfortune to live within earshot of an electronically generated bell chime on the local Roman Cathedral. I cringe every quarter hour as it wrings out a series of sounds with all the power and majesty of Aunt Edie's mantel clock on steroids, followed on the hour by the sound of a two-ton bell emanating from a turret the size of a large beehive. A few moments later I hear the tones of the 3¾ ton hour bell on Portsmouth Guildhall. The difference is immense.
I realise that your bell will be on an altogether different scale, but I would still prefer to hear a real one!
|Thread: Blown Bricks : Advice please !|
I'm not a brickologist, but wonder if these are clamp-fired bricks. The clay is mixed with coke or other combustible material, the bricks are assembled into a 'clamp' and fired, and the combustible stuff burns away, leaving a finished brick. One of Dad's friends, Noel Pycroft, used to make bricks this way on Hayling Island. This is different from kiln-firing where the clay bricks are heated in an oven.
Looking at your bricks, the light colour of the outside and the black interior make me suspect that they are clamp bricks which have been fired too quickly and at too high a temperature, leaving the middle unburned and soft. That's much the same effect as barbecuing chicken legs too quickly, where you get burned skin on the outside and raw meat in the middle.
It wouldn't solve anything, but my sense of curiosity would lead me to heat up a sample of the black part and see if it can be made more brick-like.
Is there any prospect of taking this up with the supplier or maker of the bricks?
|Thread: Which tap|
My brother used both types in his model-making business and concluded that carbon steel holds its edge better. He routinely used carbon steel taps down to 10 BA .
|Thread: dirty metric fudge|
|Thread: Lathe gear calculation|
I'm afraid you're all overthinking it by my lights.
I've downloaded a copy of Duncan Munro's ML7 gear calculator and I use that. Although it is psecifically set up for the ML7, it includes a tutorial and offers the possibility of using it on other lathes too.
It works for me.
|Thread: ‘Right to Repair’|
Well, yes and no.
I can understand why charity shops are cautious about this - if they sell any goods they have a duty to ensure that they are safe to use. The alternative would be to put the responsibility onto the purchaser by selling electrical goods as 'spares or repair' which would drop the price and reduce sales dramatically.
I spend a happy day each week as a volunteer in the local Salvation Army shop, PAT testing the electrical donations, carrying out minor repairs and preparing them for sale. I find that I am rather popular because electrical goods sell well, and fetch a good price. When displayed in the window they bring people into the shop, who then browse and buy other things. It's certainly good for the ego - to quote from Christopher Fry' s play The Lady's not for Burning "I apologise for boasting, but once you know my qualities I can drop back into a quite brilliant humility." The shop provides the PAT tester, and the work is largely common sense though there's a wealth of guidance and training available.
It's also an education into our society. There's a constant supply of whatever last year's fad was, often unused, and I despair of the people who send in well-used household appliances without wiping the food residues off, or emptying the dust bag. And there's a limit to the number of fairy-light strings a man can cope with at a sitting!
I thoroughly recommend it to anybody who is tempted, and can find a charity whose CEO's salary is not an obscenity.
|Thread: Map Scale mystery|
According to a book I have, the French foot was longer than the English foot, being equal to 12.79 English inches. The toise was six French feet in length, said to be half the distance between the walls of the inner gate of the Louvre.
Calum, I believe the toise was described as 72 pouces, not poises. I was amused when I started French in the first form to discover that "J'ai cinq pieds et sept pouces" - I have five feet and seven thumbs - a statement which my wife is happy to endorse.
|Thread: Another dirty Brian trick - reversing the chuck|
Thanks, Mart and Michael. I'll have a proper look at it later.
This sounds interesting Mart. Can I take the idle approach and ask you where the thread is to be found? (The alternative is to search for it, which might take me for ever.)
As for the matter of reversing the motor, I use an 'intermediate' light switch which cost a couple of pounds from an electrical wholesaler. It's rated at 10A and is never switched while the motor is running. Well, it was once by my carelessness, but the motor didn't even notice.
|Thread: Radio controlled clocks|
A while back I was given an MSF radio-controlled clock because one of its hands had dropped off. I opened it up and replaced the hand, then failed utterly in my quest to find instructions for setting it up.
I managed to get it running correctly, and since then it has run ... erratically. The minute hand always seems correct, but the hour hand, at random intervals, is out by a random number of hours then when I look again later it has corrected itself.
The designer of the case was very optimistic, since the movement is inside a metal case and behind a metal face, so the signal can only sneak in round the back. I shall probably convert it to a standard movement since it shows no sign of settling down.
Off topic a bit, I visited the Anthorn transmitting station during the 1960s. It was fascinating, huge and all very hush-hush, and it had its own nuclear shelter still very much in commission. One cause of amusement was that when transmitting morse code, the lights in the village dimmed in time with it. It must have been infuriating for anybody who could read morse to have a stream of encrypted gibberish appearing in their living room.
|Thread: New EBay payment regime|
I had an interesting 'conversation' with ebay earlier this month on this topic. I've edited out most of the waffle, but basically it went like this:
"I understand that ebay will be able to pay money into my bank account, but will ebay be able to WITHDRAW money from my bank account? If so, for what reasons, and what protection will I have?
To answer your question, yes eBay can withdraw from your bank as well, however this is generally a pretty rare situation.
It would happen when your available balance drops into the negative amounts. If you sell a lot, this almost never happens as your new sales will generally cancel out things like returns which could make the amount go negative.
I do more selling than buying and expect to continue using Paypal. Can transactions made through Paypal affect whether Ebay takes money from my bank account?
Paypal is no longer the payment processor so all of the money paid to you as a seller would affect your bank (usually paying into)
In other words, it doesn't matter how a buyer pays, we process the money the same way
Thank you for being the best part of eBay and I hope you have a wonderful rest of your day"
So they can take money out of your account as well as pay it in, and there was no word of any protection, unlike direct debits where there is a Direct Debit Guarantee published. I haven't found time to follow this up, but I am very dubious about signing up to it.
They also insist that it has to be a bank account, not a savings or credit card account.
|Thread: Engineering Workshop practice|
Different books, Howard. Luke was asking about 'Engineering Workshop Practice' which was edited by A.W.Judge and published by Caxton.
|Thread: What is a Lug Sweater?|
Ah, now we're getting somewhere! The TT5 Thermotool looks like the sort of thing. Thanks, Roger.
As for some of the other suggestions, in my schoolteacher days I would have scrawled RTQ!! across them in red ink. Read The Question!! We've had induction heaters, gas torch tips, crimp lugs... I do like Michael G.'s picture, though.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who doesn't (didn't) know what a lug sweater is.
I've been reading Will Doggett's article Bandsaw Blade Silver Soldering Station in the latest issue of MEW, and it has left me with a puzzle.
He refers to using a "lug sweater" instead of a gas torch for the silver soldering, speaks as though it is a common enough plumbing item, and refers to its being available in DIY shops.
It's a term I have never come across, so I got on the interwebs to find out more and found: precisely nothing. Even combinations of words which I thought might be related brought up nothing.
From the picture in the article I deduce that it is a resistance heater with carbon electrodes, but can get no further.
Can anybody enlighten me?
|Thread: Recycling of Wind Turbine Blades|
Nothing wrong with that. Scrooge was all right until they brainwashed him.
|Thread: Grease Gun|
I have two different types of grease gun. One has the nozzle and main body in line, and the grease is expelled by pressing on the end of the body. The other has the nozzle offset at an angle, and a trigger to expel the grease. There may be other styles of grease gun as well.
Could you make clear which type you are asking about, possibly with a picture?
|Thread: Myford A1|
That looks like good value for £250. I've just sold my father's old ML4 for just under £200, and that didn't have a stand or changewheel guard, or a tumbler reverse which 'your' one has.
I suspect it is a ML4, which differs in detail from the ML2. There are numerous posts on this forum which give information to help identify which model you have - search for ML4 to start with.
There are some non-standard features on 'your' lathe, but they all look like improvements . In particular, the tailstock looks altogether more sturdy, as does the tool clamp. If it's a ML2 or ML4 the centre height is 3½". If you go for an ML7 you will gain some improved features, but part with a lot more cash.
Exactly this. I had the same on my ML4.
|Thread: I dropped it|
I used to find that trouser turnups were very useful for catching dropped items. I no longer have turnups on my trousers so I recently put down some cheap laminate flooring in my workshop. It's much easier to keep clean but things dropped on it tend to bounce and skitter. The solution has turned out to be surprisingly simple - when I drop something I make a mental note of where it fell and look somewhere else.
If it's something heavy or with sharp corners it's easier to see where it fell - I just look for the scar in the flooring.
|Thread: Reading glasses - frosted area|
Brasso is finer than T-cut and would give a better finish, but all these seem a bit harsh for something which requires an optical finish. My optician warned me against using something as apparently harmless as paper tissues for wiping glass lenses because the fibres in them can scratch the surface.
On the other hand, since it appears the glasses are currently not serviceable, there's not much to lose in trying.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.