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Member postings for Georgineer

Here is a list of all the postings Georgineer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: angle plate
21/10/2019 11:35:36
Posted by Thor on 20/10/2019 18:58:34:

Michael, you spotted my typo, my old eyes didn't.

Thor

... a sight for Thor eyes?

George

Thread: Can you help identify this Myford Lathe
14/10/2019 22:20:57
Posted by Howard Lewis on 13/10/2019 20:30:52:

I believe that the very last ones may have used what is the now standard Myford Mandrel of 1 1/8 x 12 tpi Whit form.

They used the same thread, but the register was 1 1/8" diameter (same as the thread), not the 1 1/4" used on the ML7. So ML7 chucks and other accessories fit, but are not located by the register. I had one like this. I have never heard of the 1 1/4" register being an original fitment on the ML4.

George

13/10/2019 12:39:38

Stan, what did you conclude in the end? It's always nice to know the outcome of these puzzles.

If you have other queries and puzzles, try a forum search for "ML1", then "ML2" and so on, and you will find a large amount of distilled wisdom and knowledge about this family of lathes.

George

Thread: What solenoid to use?
13/10/2019 12:30:39
Posted by Clive Hartland on 13/10/2019 09:37:36:

There are some gravity type flaps set at a slight angle that only open when there is internal pressure. Often fitted to cooker hoods, no leccie used at all.

There's one fitted to my cooker hood. On a gusty day like today it goes:

flap flap flap flapflap flap flap flap flap flapflapflap flap flap flap flap flap flapflap flap flap flap flap flapflapflap flap flap flap flap flap flapflap flap flap flap flap flap flapflapflapflap flap flap flap flap flapflap flap

(repeat ad nauseam)

George

Edit:  the system software took out all my extra  spaces - you'll have to imagine the random pauses between flaps.

G.

 

Edited By Georgineer on 13/10/2019 12:32:54

Thread: Fly wheel size
08/10/2019 16:04:06

In Parsell & Weed's 1900 book Gas Engine Construction there is a section on flywheel design:

https://archive.org/details/gasengineconstr00weedgoog/page/n268

I haven't studied it in detail, but it gives their reasoning and may help you come to a conclusion.

George

Thread: Can you help identify this Myford Lathe
07/10/2019 18:25:26

Stan, Here's a post I made in an earlier thread:

"Some simple measurements and observations can identify which of the different models ML1 to ML4 one is faced with:

ML1 & 2: 3 1/8" centre height, 15" between centres, 3 1/2" cross slide travel.

ML3 & 4: 3 1/2" centre height, 24" between centres, 4 1/2" cross slide travel.

ML1 & 3 ('Standard' models): Spindle bearings direct in headstock.

ML2 & 4 ('Superior' models): Bronze spindle bearings, shrouded ball thrust race.

My understanding from lathes.co.uk is that the cast-in headstock was abandoned in 1937, so from then until the ML1 and ML3 went out of production in 1941, all models had the removable headstock."

Brian, I think it was the ML5 that was a capstan lathe. The ML4 used three different spindle nose threads, Earlier ones 7/8" x 9tpi or 7/8" x 12 tpi. Later ones used 1 1/8" x 12 tpi, the same as the ML7 but with a smaller register diameter. I don't know what threads were used on the ML 1,2 &3 but they would almost certainly have been the same.

George

Thread: What are these punches intended for
07/10/2019 14:52:07

We used them in school metalwork lessons to decorate ornamental copperwork - serviette rings, ash trays and the like. That was in 1961 when schools had metalwork shops and could afford to buy metal...

George

Thread: Hi from Portsmouth
30/09/2019 14:25:39

Greetings from Old Portsmouth, Charles. Most of my engineering these days is at the Gas Engine House museum at Eastney. We're open next Tuesday and Wednesday mornings as part of the Portsmouth 60+ festival, and we're normally open on the last Sunday of the month if you want to drop in for a look round.

George

Thread: Shell Petrol Can Puzzle
25/09/2019 13:31:29
Posted by martin perman on 23/09/2019 08:48:44:
Posted by Georgineer on 22/09/2019 23:42:16:
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/09/2019 19:05:24:

I looked for a date code on the rusty bottom of my can, but it's pretty ugly under there. Rather than having to scrape the whole thing, can anybody suggest where I should look first? The panel is corrugated rather than flat.

George

The date code will be two digits roughly in the middle of the base.

Martin P

Thanks Martin. I scratched around the middle and found a circular stamping with 'SM Co' at the top, 'London' at the bottom, '1' on the left and '32' on the right, which I interpret as January 1932.

I also investigated another can I inherited and found the date code for September 1934. All I need to do now is work out what to do with a gallon of petrol of indeterminate age, probably leaded, which it contains.

Another question - the seals in the brass caps look like leather. Would that be right?

George

Thread: How many Hammers
25/09/2019 13:21:49

I've got lots, but fewer since I donated nearly a dozen duplicates to 'Tools With a Mission'. I like the idea that they can help somebody earn a living rahter than in skulking in my drawer.

Off topic a bit, I recently read 'Every tool's a hammer' by Adam Savage (one of the Mythbusters team). It's a very interesting and thought-provoking read.

George

Thread: Shell Petrol Can Puzzle
22/09/2019 23:42:16
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/09/2019 19:05:24:

As most people would have mixed their two-stroke at the pump, the oil is probably for general lubrication?

Neil

I agree, Neil. Since it was common at one time to carry a petrol can strapped to the running board, I'm wondering if the 'duo' can was a neat way of carrying spare oil and petrol in one package. Certainly the large rounded flange on the oil cans I see in pictures would have discouraged them from rattling about while on the move.

At one time petrol was delivered to the customer in 2 gallon cans, before petrol pumps became common. Dad used to tell tales of delivering full cans on his bike and returning with the empties - that would have been in the early-to-mid 1920s at a guess. I presume the 3/- price embossed in the top of the can was the deposit, much like the 3d deposit on lemonade bottles when I was a nip.

I looked for a date code on the rusty bottom of my can, but it's pretty ugly under there. Rather than having to scrape the whole thing, can anybody suggest where I should look first? The panel is corrugated rather than flat.

George

22/09/2019 12:45:39

Puzzle solved. It makes such a difference when you know the right words to make a search! Thank you everybody for your suggestions and information. All I have seen on the base so far is flaky rust and cobwebs - I'll look for a date code when I'm next in the workshop.

I doubt I'll be making a replica can, so while I save up for a real one for only £299.99 (may have been repainted in the past!) I'll look for a beer bottle to fit. Thanks for the suggestion, Speedy. At present I'm saving up for this collectible book about gas engines: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antique-1907-Russian-Empire-book-Gas-oil-other-internal-combustion-engines/183896162971?hash=item2ad110c29b:g:2aAAAOSwi05dNzY0 I'm just glad it isn't a rare first edition.

George

Thread: Caravan Insurance
22/09/2019 00:46:00

A colleague of mine was towing his caravan (back in the 1970s) when the hitch broke on a hill and the caravan ran away and killed a pedestrian. I wouldn't like to be in a situation where the insurance company could argue that the caravan was not attached at the time of the impact and therefore deny responsibility.

George

Thread: Shell Petrol Can Puzzle
22/09/2019 00:35:37

I recently inherited this petrol can from an old friend, and it puzzles me. I've never seen one like it and it's too late to ask him what it is for.

It is a perfectly ordinary Shell can, with the usual embossed lettering and a cast brass cap lettered SHELL MEX. The paint seems to have been black, with a gold Shell emblem on the side. Where it gets puzzling is that there is a cylindrical steel vessel, 3" in diameter and 10½" deep, let into it and soft soldered in place. There is a hint of what may be oil toward the bottom of the inside.

The cylinder gives every impression of being machine made, which I emphasise because the handle is an obvious home-made replacement of brass, soft soldered in place.

So the puzzle is, what was the purpose of this modification, and was it done by Shell? Was it to hold a can of 2-stroke oil? If so, why wouldn't you just mix it straight in with the petrol? Was there a standard Shell 2-stroke oil can which would fit? And why would you want to reduce the capacity of a 2 gallon can to 1 gallon, 2 quarts, 1 pint and 2½ gills? (I stuck that in for the traditionalists. Imperial gallons of course.)

Over to you for suggestions,

George

shellmex petrol can.jpg

Thread: CRT Free!
14/09/2019 14:13:19
Posted by not done it yet on 14/09/2019 12:00:32:

George, all those I have made safe, before disposal, had a small tube, where they were initially sealed after evacuation. Carefully breaking off the end of that stub allows air to enter quite steadily - just a gentle ‘hiss’.

Quite true, but all the ones I have dealt with have a cap like a valve base firmly fixed over the small tube, and I've always been a bit wary of trying to break that loose.

George

14/09/2019 11:11:53

For those who do want to dispose of old CRTs, Dad taught me to make a nick round the neck with the edge of a file, smother it all with sacking, then knock the cap sideways with a hammer. The neck snaps at the nick, the tube breathes in deeply HWWWWwwwwp and all is safe. I've disposed of many old tubes this way without drama.

George

Thread: Motor wiring
14/09/2019 11:02:31

If you reverse the motor on a saw, will it cut things back together again?

George

Thread: strange power socket
15/08/2019 21:41:24
Posted by Mike Poole on 15/08/2019 09:53:28:

... The other crazy thing in the factory was the use of red for the earth cable ...

This was, and may still be, a US practice. In the 1960s my father bought a US-made 8 mm film editor and was puzzled to find that the mains lead conductors were white, black and red. When he checked, he found that the switch was in the white lead and the metal case was connected to the red. He changed the mains lead to make sure that nobody ever got caught out. (I still have it, and it has never caught me out!)

George

Thread: Blown Fuse
14/08/2019 14:43:02

One possibility occurs to me which I haven't seen mentioned. Are there any mains conductors with chafed insulation, possibly at entries or corners? If the insulation finally wore through - vibration could cause this - and the conductor made contact with earthed metal, it would give a big spark, and could very easily burn itself clear, for a while at least. I cannot explain the spark at the tool point, however.

George

Thread: Grid Frequency [mains electricity]
13/08/2019 18:08:34
Posted by old mart on 13/08/2019 16:35:23:

Seems like my old boss must have monkeyed with his clock to get it running backwards after all.

Not necessarily. Early mains clocks had no ratchet mechanism and had to be started by spinning a small shaft by hand. If you spun it the wrong way, the clock ran backwards. I have an old clock movement of this type which belonged to my late father.

The tower clock of St Mary's Church in Portsmouth made news headlines some years ago when this happened. I wasn't in charge of it at that time, I hasten to add; that came later. The chimes, which were operated by mercury tilt switches, would have continued in the correct sequence but sounded at not-the-quarter and not-the-hour!

George

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