Here is a list of all the postings Georgineer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford ML4 change gear modification|
Three reasons spring to mind. First, for convenience in storing unused wheels. Second, to allow idler wheels to rotate freely. Third, it reduces the number of pins you need.
The Myford pins, though tiny, had beautifully domed ends.
I can't answer for the Drummond (though I have my suspicions) but the Myford used parallel pins of 3/32" silver steel. I have this in original Myford paperwork somewhere. Not Loctite - you want to be able to remove the pins, so nothing tighter than a sliding fit. .
The Myford way was to drill blind holes in the gears and collars, which trapped the pins in place. If you drill through-holes, the pin will work its way out and let go in the middle of a cut. Don't ask me how I know.
Ajax, I have used the pin drive system on my father's and then my own ML4s for over fifty years and it never caused the least problem that wasn't of my own making (see above!).
|Thread: Myford ML4 cross slide|
Backlash in itself is not harmful, and it should be routine practice always to make settings and apply feed from the same direction to eliminate it.
If the cross-slide feedscrew is only worn on some threads the feed-per-turn will vary slightly from turn to turn, so you won't get exactly 83⅓ thou for each turn. How often and how much would that matter?
Father compromised on his ML4 by putting packing between the cross-slide screw-plate and the cross-slide casting, to bring forward the less used portion of the thread. In all the years I used it I never noticed the difference, and for some years I used it to produce commercial parts.
Guilty as charged. Should I resign?
|Thread: Weight of Myford ML4 ?|
Ajax, that looks convincing for an ML4. Does your weight of 50.1 kg include the drip tray shown in the photos? I have recently lifted an ML4 (less tailstock and drip tray) from ground level to car-boot level without distress, so I would estimate it about 40 - 45kg plus those bits. Unfortunately my ML4 leaflets don't give weights, so I can't quote from source.
And before anybody asks, yes I have the manual handling and lifting certificate (and a 35-year-old disc injury) so I don't take chances!
Without looking it up, I think GaAs is/was used in red LEDs. I know Gallium Arsenide Phosphide (GaAsP) was.
|Thread: Ambiguous words|
Then there's bolt, as in "making a bolt for the door".
I once had a copy of 'The Bible in Basic English' which restricted itself to a vocabulary of a few hundred words, supposedly to make it easier for non-English speakers to understand. Unfortunately the translator had not simplified the grammar and sentence structure at all, so it was, in my opinion, as diffcult to read and comprehend as the King James version.
While on the subject of ambiguous words, the word inflammable is a rare example of a word which has largely been retired and replaced by clearer alternatives.
|Thread: Seeking advice on mains equipment earthing|
Something I've been doing since Dad taught me how to wire a plug in nineteen-sixty-... er... is that the time?
I did the same inside the film editor, for the same reasons.
Yes, I'm pleased to say that it did. The three-core flex was chosen to be the same diameter as the original two-core, so I was able to re-use the original anchoring arrangements.
I'm pleased to report back that the restoration has been successful. What took the time was getting my hands on a suitable bulb for a reasonable price. The previous owner had fitted a 12 volt car indicator bulb, which got a bit over-excited on 24 volts.
I concluded that there is no need to fit a fuse in the editor itself. I take John Doe's point that officially the fuse in the plug is there to protect the flexible cable not the equipment itself, but with a 3 amp fuse fitted in the plug it will blow long before anything else comes to any harm.
A 20-amp class 1 PAT test shows 0.03 ohm resistance (± tolerance) between metal casework and earth pin which is good, and insulation resistance between transformer windings >20 megohms, which is even gooder. My work here is done!
Thanks again to all who have contributed,
|Thread: Interesting demonstration of hydraulic pressure|
Sitting in my easy chair yesterday I heard a clatter in the kitchen. I went to see what had fallen off the drying rack, and instead found a tidal wave of oil advancing across the worktop towards me.
We buy olive oil in large cans and I decant it into a square glass bottle. Last time I did this, I overfilled the bottle and screwed the lid on leaving no ullage, then put it back in its accustomed place next to the combination microwave oven.
My wife was using the conventional oven setting to cook a simnel cake for Easter (yes, I'm a lucky blighter) and the side of the oven got hotter than it usually does though still not above hand-hot. The expansion due to the heat was enough to burst the bottle, and by golly, did it burst!
Naturally the oil had spread quickly and soaked into everything it could reach. So I had the joy of cleaning up a litre of olive oil laced with glass, from big shards to tiny splinters.
I shan't make that mistake again.
|Thread: Phosphoric Acid experiment|
Looks like wrought iron to me. You can often see the same grain structure in old anchors and similar things dredged up from the sea bed. My father had one where you could see the way the grain changed where the smith had fire-welded the shaft.
My blacksmithing instructor in the 1970s said you can identify wrought iron by the smell, because it's all so old...
|Thread: Need a pen to draw the "finest possible" lines?|
I did try mapping pens (my Mum, a tracer, produced some wonderful work with them) but I'm left-handed which makes me literally a pen-pusher. On paper the straight nib caught in the fibres of the paper then broke loose with a splat.
Later I used Rotring pens on tracing paper, then Rotring on mylar which is my favourite. We had tungsten carbide tipped pens because the mylar wore down ordinary pens too quickly.
Later there were plastic pencil leads (permanent or erasable) for use on mylar film and they were horrible.
|Thread: Domestic Chemistry|
I'd like to learn how to make sodium nitrate from acetic acid.
|Thread: Precise technical terms.|
Well, that's two minutes I'll never get back.
|Thread: April questions---for one day only.|
This can be turned to advantage. When Dad was in senior management in Portsmouth Dockyard during the 1960s, the medical centre applied to buy an electro-cardiograph machine, a very expensive thing in those days. It was turned down by the finance department.
On being told of this, Dad said to the chief medic (who came under his aegis ) "Hmm... So in effect you are measuring the hardness of men's hearts?" and got the reply " Well, yes, in a way that's true." "Leave it with me," said Dad, and resubmitted the order under the engineering budget as a hardness tester. It went through without question.
|Thread: "Kiv" or Kiev?|
If President Poo-tin (which I am told is also the Russian word for bed-pan) does to Kyiv what he has done to Mariupol and a large swathe of Syria, what it's called will be of academic interest only.
|Thread: What adhesive - that shrinks when it sets - do you recommend for melamine laminate sheets?|
Dad used Formica stuck down with Evostik in Mum's kitchen in 1966. It was still all firmly fixed when we sold the house in 2005.
Nobody seems to have mentioned thixotropic cements like Thixofix and Timebond. They are similar to Evostik but are more forgiving of accidental touch-downs.
|Thread: Liquid Plus Gas|
Don't forget that the makers of WD40 now market a whole range of products under the WD40 name, including a penetrating fluid.
Mind you, when we ran out of Plus Gas in the 1970s, Dad re-filled the tin with a 50/50 mix of light oil and paraffin. We used it for years and never noticed a difference.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.