Member postings for Brian H

I have every sympathy with Speedy Builder 5 as my first boiler was made when I worked in the aircraft industry. The boiler was made using certified 316 and tig welded by a coded welder followed by pressure testing. I then joined the local model engineering society only to find that only copper, silver soldered boilers were accepted.

Everything else on the model (a 5 inch Terrier) was also made in 316, even the wheels.

Brian

The problem with stainless steels is that you need to be sure exactly which one you have, not all of them would be suitable for boilers.

Without being an expert, I would think that 316 would be most suitable but I would want to see a test certificate than corresponded with printed markings on the sheet.

316 can be silver soldered successfully using Tenacity 5 flux or equivalent and preferably solder with a 55% silver content.

Brian

Hello Martyn and welcome. I'm no clockmaker but I have restored a few and, like you, fancied making a complete one. I chose an English Regulator to a published design and really enjoyed making it although I chickened out of making the case, which was made for me by a local cabinet maker.

The clock keeps good time and looks good in the living room.

All the best with what you want to do,

Brian

Usually known as a warding file I believe, due to their use to cut the ward (slots) in lock components including keys.

The are useful when filing slots as they will only cut on the edge and do not widen the slot.

Brian

My workbench tops came from a dealer in reclaimed wood. The are a multiply board with a black plastic coating and were originally used as shuttering for poured concrete. The plastic coating prevents the concrete from sticking. The boards are about 3/4 inch thick and are heavy and sturdy.

Brian

Hello Andrew and welcome.

I cannot help much but this may be of interest to you:

**LINK**

Brian

Hello Ian and welcome. Not built a Congreve clock but have made the English Regulator, which keeps excellent time.

I don't think that worn machinery should be a problem, you just need to learn and compensate for it. And another thing, a lot of clockmaking is handwork and even the turning does no need to be that accurate, the main thing is that parts should fit fairly loose so that there is no friction.

I wish you all the best with your project and look forward to reading updates on progress.

If you find you need help and advice then this is the place to come.

Brian

Congratulations on your new acquisition, here is a site with info on your lathe:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/raglan/**LINK**

Brian

**LINK**

Brian (I have no connection with them)

If you open a door in front of a cyclist (or any other person), what difference does it make what hand you use? Another example of useless rule making.

I have a Boxford AUD with gearbox but it is also possible to add change wheels to increase the number of pitches available.

Brian

Have a look at this site for information:

**LINK**

Many thanks John and Dick for the info. After carefully reading the site I found an address I used to contact David.

Brian

Does anyone know how to contact David Carpenter at Model Engineering Website? There appears to be no way of contacting via the website.

Brian

I think that the most important thing is to ensure that your clamping set fits your Bridgeport. After that there is no need to worry about whether they are metric or Imperial.

Brian

It's not the loudness or otherwise of the so called, background music, it's the fact that it's there at all, especially when someone is talking.

Brian

Going back to my original post, surely it must be possible to electronically filter out the background music?

Brian

I needed to supply 3 ph from 1 ph mains for an Alexander 3D mill and engraver and found company just of M1 Jtn 28 called ;

https://www.drivesdirect.co.uk/

They were excellent in supplying a VFD with a remote controller and advising me how to wire it up.

I have no connection with them apart from being a very satisfied customer.

Brian

Just tried the link from SoB and it worked fine.

Brian

I'm paying attention Noel!

Brian

My only experience of boiler failure was when a company that I worked for decided to build a range of domestic boilers to a German design, under licence.

One of the requirements was that we would have to carry out a destructive test using hydraulic pressure.

The boiler withstood over 5 times its design limit and then split in a non welded area. The lack of anything dramatic happening was somewhat of a disappointment but convinced me that a hydraulic test was the safest way to test a boiler.

Brian