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Member postings for Matt Stevens 1

Here is a list of all the postings Matt Stevens 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Loctite for drilling
02/03/2016 14:10:58

Thanks for the responses all..... What I am trying to do is just hold a few pieces together while I gently vertically drill through them (Cylinder and valve chest for example). The parts will be a close, polished fit so from what everybody has said, I imagine a spot of superglue on each side would work nicely. I guess the part would easily separate when needed and then the glue sand off...

Having said that, I like the idea of double sided tape - I have used this technique for turned small parts before so I might try that!

Thanks again

01/03/2016 17:58:45

Hi,

So I am thinking of using Loctite to 'tack' parts (castings) together so I can drill them accurately. I figured this is probably one of the easiest ways to hold parts with complex clamping arrangments....

So - is this a good idea or not? If yes, what Loctite would you use keeping in mind the parts need to be separated later and the Loctite cleaned off.

I was thinking 641???

Thanks

Matt

Thread: Stuart D10 Drain Valves
16/02/2016 21:43:11

...also, any feedback on which side the drain cocks should be located on? Exhaust or inlet? Does it not matter?

16/02/2016 21:18:13

Thanks guys...brilliant advice!

It sounds like the correct way to start up the engine then is to open the drain valves and let the steam pour through for a minute or so and then close the valves and allow the engine to run. Am I correct?

16/02/2016 19:31:24

Hi All,

I am just completing my machining on the cylinders of a Stuart D10 and had a couple of questions about the drain valves....

The drain vales are separate items and do not come with the kit. Can someone confirm the thread type on there?

Also the drawings do not show anything to do with the drain valves in terms of position, which side etc. Now I can guess the location as there is a 'boss' on the castings both top and bottom, left and right hand sides....however I wanted to check to see if there is any advice on the positioning. For example - I assume the drain valves should all be on the same side from a cosmetic point of view? What about which side of the cylinder? exhaust side or steam inlet side? Should the drain valve be positioned in the middle of the casted boss on the side or is there a risk that it clashes with anything like the end caps or piston movement for that matter? Maybe they need to be as low as possible such to drain the maximum amount of trapped fluid??? What exactly does the top drain valve drain....its at the top of the cylinder?

What are the drain valves actually for?! Maybe a stupid question - I am guessing the obvious is condensed water in the cylinder once steam has been shut off and the engine has cooled?

Thanks

Matt

Thread: Silver Solder
18/01/2016 18:18:51

Hi Stewart,

I am based at Peterborough in Ontario.

Given the amount of snow you have - I am guessing you could be nearby!

Regards

Matt

18/01/2016 12:43:03

Anyone any idea where I can buy silver solder from in Canada? I am not finding anything on google....maybe I have to import it from the UK???

Thanks

Thread: Polishing castings
08/01/2016 14:43:18

Hi,

Well I was thinking of polishing the flywheel and the valve chest. I wasn't going to take away the casting roughness as I quite like that.

I was however considering a course sanding of the machined parts to remove any milling marks - but I would not polish the majority of the parts to a shine, just think the flywheel and valve chest as mentioned above.

Thanks

Matt

08/01/2016 13:58:15

Hi All,

Just confirming my thoughts....

To polish some stuart castings to a mirror finish, I assume I would use a wet and dry style paper to about 800-grit?

- What stages would you use for polishing a machined part? 150-grit and then 800-grit ok...maybe a step inbetween or no need?

- Would you use any kind of oil on the 800-grit paper to stop clogging? Any oil.....e.g a cutting/tapping oil ok?

Thanks

Matt

Thread: Workshop flooring and lighting
08/09/2015 17:58:44

So - now I am starting to get my machines together, I wanted to finish off my workshop once only and do it right! I have the opportunity to change the floors/walls or whatever to suit.

The workshop is in a basement with a concrete floor and wooden walls with drywall covering.

What should I do with the floor? I could leave it as is....paint it with 'garage floor paint' or there is some flooring that they use in car showrooms which is expensive. Other options? I am just thinking that with metal chips around, painting might be the better option?

Lighting....what style lighting is best over a lathe/mill etc? I am thinking to suspend fluorescent lighting but is this a good idea with the 60Hz flicker possibility? Is it the right kind of light?

Advice before spending my money would be appreciated.

Thanks

Thread: South Bend Model C lathe
27/08/2015 14:51:35

Great Thanks all....think I might go for it!

Regards

Matt

Thread: Lathes/Mills in Canada
05/08/2015 22:05:16

So what I am hearing is that providing the Logan over here is in as good a shape as the pictures suggest....and that it has change wheels, then its a good buy???

I might check with Logan US for spares availability first.

Thanks

P.S. Bandersnatch....I get first dibs!!

05/08/2015 17:42:51

What are peoples thoughts on this....

**LINK**

I am kindof reluctant to get an 'old' machine because a) the amount of wear and tear and b)it just doesn't feel modern enough ......but then I am young pup!

Having said the above...what are peoples impressions? It certainly looks nicely maintained

29/07/2015 17:32:00

All - Thanks for the enthusiastic responses which you have all replied to quickly.

@IanT - Good points. I likely would not get a 'tiny' Lathe like the Unimat stuff, I found they were just not man enough for the job and had too many limitations. The lathe I was previously used too was a 9"x20" which I felt was a nice size to work with. But for sure I can check out the manufacturers.

@Jeff - PM'ed you as requested. Thanks

Thanks for the other makes to check out...I am no expert and hence all these questions. I have to admit, I see some 'old' machines on Kijiji in Ontario like South Bend for $900 ish but they look really old! I know everyone raves about stuff like that, but I would be more comfortable with something that looks a little more modern and shiny! A tray that collects all the chippings is a nice feature too to save my basement floor getting too covered in crap

For interest, the link below looks very very similar to the Chester model I used before.....I bet it is the same machine painted differently!

**LINK**

29/07/2015 02:53:15

Thanks for all the comments guys...

Grizzly in the states is about 6:30 drive from Peterborough so not out of the question if it was worth while....

I really wonder if there is a way to get across the border without paying all the duty ???

I am not in a rush so can wait for the CAD to recover against the US as long as its not years away.....

Second hand is an option and if any of you guys come across something interesting in a commutable distance....give me a shout...I would appreciate that.

@John - not so much into railway, I am more interested in static steam engines like the Stuart models....im only a young wiper snapper as well at 36! I have my dad to blame for getting me into this ...

Are there any model shows lined up in Toronto area? When I was in the UK, thy were great for checking out different manufacturers stuff

Thanks

28/07/2015 20:32:57

I am based over in Peterborough in Ontario.....about 1.5 hours away from Toronto.

So I wonder how easy it is to drive over the border and buy stuff and then drive back....at what point do you get stopped, goods checked and pay additional taxes?

So what I am hearing is....

- avoid South Bend due to high cost

- Busy Bee is ok but low end

- KBC is middle of the road?

- Grizzly tools is middle of the road?

Any other comments welcome

Thanks

28/07/2015 17:41:53

Hi All,

So in the UK I was used to using a Chester 920 Lathe and a Chester milling machine......now I have moved to Canada!

So I want to setup a machine shop again and need a starting point because it seems almost all the manufacturers are different and I don't know whats top end, mid range etc.....there are manufacturers like grizzly, busy bee etc.

Any advice?

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