Here is a list of all the postings Matt Stevens 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Phosphor Bronze grade for boiler bushes|
Hi Bill - Isnt that the drawn stuff? Does it machine ok given i am not running coolant on my 9" lathe?
I have heard Calphos 90 mentioned alot as well....
I am building the 6" vertical AJ Reeves boiler which calls for Phosphor bronze use on the bushes.... trouble is there are lots of grades out there. What type of PB should i be using?
I have heard there are drawn and cast grades - likely the latter is easier to machine on a lathe where i don't have coolant running. Another point is that i am based in Canada so a grade i can get in North America would be great...
|Thread: Mini pipe bending|
wow....that stuff is not cheap!
I wonder if freezing water would damage the pipe? I guess the pipe could be annealed, plugged at one end, filled with water and propped upright while freezing allowing expanding water to come out the top to prevent damage?!
What does everyone recommend / use for bending small diameter pipes for models? I am particularly thinking about 2x applications....1) Bending a small 1/8" pipe into almost a 1" circle for a boiler blowoff and 2) pipework for a stuart Triple which has has quite tight 90deg bends from diameters around 1/4" (i think)
There doesnt seem to be much ont he market for this type of thing, do people make their own tool? Any pictures if the answer is yes to that...
|Thread: Machine reamers|
Yes that is what i am finding.....my mill is R8 so i could get an R8 to Mt1/2/3 arbor but i figured that was just a pain.
I wonder why chucking reamers are less common?
Where is a good place to buy imperial machine/chucking reamers? I looked at the likes of RDG tools and Tracy tools and they seems to mainly sell hand reamers (hence have a taper). I would like a set of reamers that i can use either with collets or with a chuck and hence i will avoid morse taper reamers....but most impartantly is that i want to ream blind holes!
PS, i am in Canada so local (well priced) Canadian suppliers are perfect, but i find this kind of thing normally comes from the UK.
|Thread: SIMEC Newsletters|
Does anyone know where i can get hold of the SIMEC (Stuart International Model Engineers Club) newsletters?
I assume since the club has been long disbanded, these are freely available somewhere? I am mainly interested in articles that might help me out with the models i build....especially on the Triple and the steam pump.
|Thread: Stuart Triple Barstock|
Hi.... someone has assisted me with drawings, I will work it out from there.
I will be ordering a Triple castings set shortly and am aware that the barstock is not included. The parts list (**LINK**) on page 3 is what is not included....but it doesnt give any indication of sizes.
Some sizes might be trickier to acquire in Canada so i wanted to be prepared. Can anyone give me a list of barstock sizes needed?
|Thread: Cheap DRO for Mill|
So....there is a guy thats given a review of the JingCE 2 axis DRO....seems a fair review watching it, and the guy essentially gives it a thumbs up for home use. See what you think...
I used to work in the VFD Development team at Siemens - they can/do generate alot of noise. You should be able to change the switching frequency which might help, but also make sure you have a screened motor cable (most important) and proper earthing that you already eluded to.
Well thankyou for everyones comments, i appreciate your time to respond.
So some of you are showing you have the most basic of DRO's like the Warco version and they essentially 'do the job' for us model engineers...yet would like to upgrade given the chance. So i guess this leads me to the thought of 'If you would buy again, what would you get'?
I don't mind putting a bit of extra cash where it makes sense, but i equally dont want to go overboard and don't have the means to anyway! (The wife may apply restrictions!). For reference i am located in Canada so i am not necessarily looking for a British supplier, althought thats ok if it makes sense.
I own a CX600 Mill (**LINK**  and i am considering putting a DRO on it.
Now you can spend alot of money on a DRO and you can also get cheap ones from China such as the one i have linked below. Firstly what is the difference? Accuracy and resolution looks good, so what are you getting with a more expensive one.
Also, i am a hobby machinist so whilst i want something of quality for the home use, i am not doing this day in and day out for a living so trying to strike a balance.... anyway, i value your opinions and options. Here is the link to a Chinese version..
|Thread: Which triple expansion engine|
....so far you are swaying me towards the Stuart model! I believe that also is not an easy model to make.
I am thinking already about my next model! I have enjoyed making the Stuart D10 as well as the Stuart twin Victoria and i guess you can say i like Stuart models!
So i was thinking about the Triple Expansion engine next....then i saw that AJ Reeves makes a competitor product to which i have no information about.
Anyone got any opinions about either one? Maybe there are other Triple expansions worth considering?
|Thread: Machine reamer vs Chucking reamer|
I know both chucking reamers and machine reamers can come in straight or spiral flutes and both are not tapered flutes (like hand reamers)....i know a machine reamer has a morse taper shank and a chucking reamer a straight one like a drill.....but is there any reason why you might choose to use one over the other?
Heres my thought....my mill takes R8 collets and has a drill chuck fitted much of the time and the tailstock of my lathe is MT3 but with a drill chuck fitted much of the time. So the common aspect is the chuck which makes me think chucking reamers are the way to go. Otherwise i would need various sets of sleeves....but what i dont know is if there is any advantages of a machne reamer over a chucking reamer.
|Thread: Stuart Victoria paint Colour|
Thanks for the ideas.... They look nice models...
Any other opinions....perhaps post images of your models/colour scheme to give me some inspiration!
So getting near the point of considering painting....question is, what colour? I am kindof set of the box bed being black, but everything else is flexible.
My thought right now is to do the boxbed Stuart black, the cylinder Stuart Green and the flywheel red and everything else polished. Will three colours look odd? What colour red would i use - i have heard somewhere of people using a specific red and mixing a tiny amount of black in? I welcome any other suggestions....
I know this seems trivial in the grand scheme of things, but having spent so long making the thing, i want to make sure i get the colours looking good.
|Thread: Interference fit of bush - PB into mild steel|
So if i use loctite which is probably the easiest way at least, should there be a clearance or is a nice slide fit good enough to get capillary action to work? Further - are we talking red loctite or blue....i assume red? (Yes i know there are many different types, but i am generalising to what i have at home )
The Conn rod of a Stuart Victoria calls for a Phosphur Bronze bush be fitted into the turned mild steel connection rod going to the crank.
My plan is to have a interference fit with the idea that i will heat the conn rod int he oven, cool the bush int he freezer and then simply drop it in place. Hopefully without any pounding!
Question is - what interference should i go for....i am thinking 0.001" ( a thou). Is that sufficient? The bush is 3/8" diameter so only small.
Or is a better option to loctite a sliding fit? This way it can easily be removed, but i doubt this will ever be needed...
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