Here is a list of all the postings Matt Stevens 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chuck fitment to dividing head|
I will check the threads against one another per your suggestion...thanks.
I suspect ordering a 1.5" 8TPI UNS die will be pretty expensive for a one time use, assuming i can find one. ANyway, i will get to the group with my findings.
P.S. It does have an MT2 taper.
So i have a Southbend 9" lathe which has a spindle thread of 1.5" x 8 TPI. I have 3 and 4 jaw chucks for it.
Recently i got a dividing head which also has theoretically the same thread. The problem is that the chucks do not screw onto the dividing head?! They go tight within a quarter turn or so....
Any ideas? It would be a pain to have to machine new backing plates and keep switching them between chucks etc.
|Thread: Stuart triple crankshaft machining|
I am finding that precision ground steel in a grade like 12L14 is not so readily available.....it tends to be more Tool steel grades and so i suspect not so easy to machine. Because of this, i am leaning towards using Drill Rod as i know i can get a piece of 3/8" @3ft for quite cheap.
Is the trend leaning towards using loctite and pins compared to silver soldering? I guess its less clean up afterwards... I also guess less chance of any relief happening changing dimensions.
I am thinking to make the webs/weights from solid. Its probably just as much machining anyway.... But i guess i could machine up the cast weights just for fun anyway
So....getting colder outside - time to start the triple!
Crankshaft in the kit has the 6x counter weights cast, everything else has to be made from stock. I wanted to get some comments before starting the job...
The crankshaft and journals are made from 3/8" dia mild steel according to the drawing. I have some 1144 material but it is slightly undersize by about 3 thou and so i am wondering if i should use this or get some silver steel/drill rod which will be precision ground? My concern is that if it is undersize, it won't be a great fit in the bearings which will be reamed (once made) to 3/8". Thoughts?
Whats the best way to set the 3x sets of webs at 120deg from each other for drilling and pinning?
Any tips on registering the counterweights against the crank webs to keep them straight and located properly? Or would you advice throwing them away and machining brand new webs with counterweights from 1.75" stock (i have 1144 in stock)
|Thread: Buying a new Lathe....Asian?|
The South Bend Heavy 10 looks a superb machine, but it is also close to $10,000 CAD! I think that is way outside what i was looking to pay.....especially since the Precision Matthews (favourite so far) is closer to $3000-3500CAD
|Thread: Threading trouble|
Thankyou everyone....as always, i learnt something and this is the power of this forum/community!
Nice idea with the washer pulley like that one......
I can reverse the leadscrew by shifting the tumbler as suggested by Jeff, i guess i have to be careful about not moving any gear positions whilst doing so however.
I also like the idea to disengage the halfnuts in the screw relief to prevent chuck crash and then wind back the spindle without moving the carriage until the thread gauge aligns again. i will give that a try!
Thanks for all the suggestions, i will practice some more over the weekend!
That would explain it then!
Only trouble is, i don't have a reverse so have to manually wind back the spindle which is a pain in the arse!
So - this might emphasize why I need a new lathe....but lets see....
I rarely have a need for thread cutting as dies typically work for the sizes I need, however I recently made myself a 80/63 compound gear to convert the lathe from imperial to metric threads so thought I would have a go. The pitch seemed to work very well when I tried a 1.5mm setup.
The process I did is as follows - offset compound slide to 30deg (I was doing a standard ISO thread), turned down stock held in a collet to required size and created relief groove, took a scratch cut with half nuts engaged at no.1 on thread dial, disengaged half nuts and wound back cross a little, moved carriage back, would in the cross slide to the same spot and would in the compound a little and then re-engaged the half nuts at the same thread dial number..... result = new thread cut!!!
The only way I can get the thread to cut the same point each time is by never dis-engaging the half-nuts. This makes the thread dial pointless! Any ideas why i have this problem? I can only assume its a work half-nut/leadscrew combination? Or am I missing something?
|Thread: Buying a new Lathe....Asian?|
Thankyou everyone for your thoughts.....it may be a little while till i upgrade due to funds and ....ahem.....convincing the wife etc.
I will keep you all informed and perhaps post what i am looking at for comments.
P.S. The Blondihacks youtube video was very useful!
I think the Warco WM250V is essentially the same machine as the Precision Matthews one...
So common brands over here in Canada are King Canada, Busy Bee Tools (Cheap), Grizzly is just over the border in the US..... really not sure.
I have seen alot of positive feedback for Precision Matthews machines. I don't know if they are locally available to me or not.....
I currently own and use a 1939 Southbend Model C lathe (9" between centers). It certainly has its limitations in that it works only with change gears (messy and a pain), no powered cross feed, no variable speed, not overly versatile to mount anything else other than the compound slide etc. On top of this....it is old and likely worn and not as rigid as it could be.... maybe i can use a slightly bigger machine too?!
So before i approach the wife for scolding/funding, i need to have an idea on what to look at. There has always been debate about Chinese imports and quality.....but then there is some very good quality items from China and improvements made in recent years. Its also true to say you get what you pay for yadda yadda.
There is a lot of what looks like the same machines with different brands stamped on. I suspect the castings might come from the same original supplier, but the spindle bearing and other parts may differ and there may lie the big quality differences..... SO......what should i be looking at? I am based in Canada, a sucker for a bargin but also don't want to buy something i will regret. Anyone want to give me some experiences of what to look at and what not?
|Thread: Boiler Fittings|
Thanks Jason.... The design has a twin superheater, each using 1/4" pipe (thick walled). I would have to double check the inner diameter of the superheater pipes, but i guess that also sets a limit in that the volume of steam that can be delivered.
Thanks for the comments everyone.....
So i understand i will not feed an injector then on my setup? .....2x clack valves as Jason suggests is probably a better alternative. I have made a Stuart steam pump and a hand pump to complement that could be a good idea.
Pipe sizes - Well i will be running a twin Victoria, a Triple (when i make it) and likely others in the future like a major beam or something. Perhaps i should assume 1/4" piping with those models in mind?
@Paul - You asked about the drawing and what it calls for....well it gives the option for either 3/8" or 5/16". So for example, that would dictate the size of the water gauge and hence the cost of the water gauge. This is why i asked if 6mm is sufficient as that would point to the 5/16"x 32 bush.
I will try to post a few pictures later for interest purposes....
I am going to ask some simple questions, but they are important since i am picking threads for bushes on my model boiler.
I am making the Reeves 6" vertical boiler and so its abit of a beast, but should be good to run any models in the future. What i am trying to work out is the requirements for the fittings....for example....
- Water Gauge. Is a plain one with a drain cock sufficient or should i get a 3-cock type which are much more expensive? If so why? Is 6mm glass sufficient (means a 5/16"x32 bushes)
- Blow down valve. Is bigger better? i.e. 3/8"x32 bush?
- Check/clack valves. What are they for? I understand these have a spring loaded one way valve inside correct....are these for water injection? How many should a boiler have? Again is bigger better? (3/8" x 32 bush)
- Steam take off. The drawing calls for a 5/8"x26 external thread but i can't understand what/how you would connect to this. I can imagine more an internal thread of 3/8" x 32 going to a globe valve. Any thoughts?
- What size piping would you generally expect for a boiler this size? 3/16" or 1/4"? Would the answer differ between check valves and take off?
- Injectors. What are these for? I am confused between check valves and injectors for boiler filling.
In total i can see 1x take off, 1x blow down, 1x blower valve, 1x safety valve, 1x water gauge, 1x check valve. Have i missed anything?
Finally - i see a big difference in pricing for fittings between different vendors. Best i seem to find is GLR Kennions or Blackgates. Are these the recommended suppliers for what i need? I will be shipping to Canada so one vendor for everything is ideal.
|Thread: Phosphor Bronze grade for boiler bushes|
Yes i believe there is 4% lead in C544. Not sure about zinc.....Could you explain why you think this is a problem for boiler bushes?
I believe C544 is much easier to machine also than PB102/C510
Interesting how Bill's posts have been removed???
Anyway, from doing abit of research, it seems that PB102 is a common grade in the UK which is equivalent to C510 in North America. C544 is more common over here yet it doesnt seem that there is a comparable British Standard equivalent. See attached link for info.... **LINK** .
I still wonder if both C544 and C510 are ok for boiler use.....i would like to buy C544 which is far more accessible.
Thanks Bill..... i see that McMaster-Carr carry 510 and 544 grades. I believe 544 does have some lead in it, buts its more accessible and cheaper. If this is a suitable grade for boiler bushes then it might be a good bet.
I see C544 mentioned as a grade...any comments?
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